ESCALADA ESPORTIVA NO BRASIL: O RETRATO DOS ATLETAS PROFISSIONAIS E AMADORES

Climbing will be a demonstrative sport in 2020 Olympic Games and the interest by this sport is increasing in Brazil. The recent history of the buildings of climbing walls and the competitions remind the lack of information that support the athletes training, it makes necessary to investigate the profile of the Brazilian competitors. The aim of the research was to demonstrate the characteristics of climbing athletes so that it is possible to infer in how would be this training. It was applied a questionnaire to 81 athletes, of which 47 are professional and 34 are amateurs, they were participants in the Brazilian Championship of Boulder in 2018, in Sao Paulo. After analyzing the results, it was realized that the athletes are concentrated in the South and Southeast areas. The time of practicing is decisive in the searching for results. The low BMI shows the struggling to beat the gravity force. The athletes have aerobic activities, weightlifting, stretching, beyond others to improve the performance and it is realized that are increasing the number of athletes searching for a coach assistant to reach better results. The coaches are demanded because of their academic education, and finally the athletes don’t have sponsorship. It is concluded that Brazil must make progress in the organization o sport climbing, disseminating this practice in other areas, preparing professionals with theoretic-practical knowledge and financially aiding the athletes.A escalada será modalidade de demonstração nos Jogos Olímpicos de 2020 e o interesse pelo esporte aumentou no Brasil. A história recente da construção de paredes de escalada e de competições remete à carência de informações que deem suporte à preparação de atletas, sendo necessário investigar o perfil dos competidores brasileiros. O objetivo da pesquisa foi demonstrar as características dos atletas da escalada para que se possa inferir sobre como deve ser o treinamento. Aplicou-se um questionário em 81 atletas, sendo 47 na categoria profissional e 34 atletas na categoria amador, participantes do Campeonato Brasileiro de Boulder de 2018, em São Paulo. Após análise dos resultados, verificou-se que os atletas se concentram nas regiões Sul e Sudeste.  O tempo de prática é decisivo na busca de resultados. O baixo IMC demonstra a luta para vencer a força da gravidade. Os atletas fazem treinos aeróbios, musculação, alongamento, entre outros, para melhorar seu desempenho e verifica-se cada vez mais atletas buscando o acompanhamento de treinador para atingir melhores resultados. Os treinadores são procurados por sua experiência na prática da escalada, mas não pela formação acadêmica e, por fim, a maioria dos atletas não tem patrocínio. Conclui-se que o Brasil deve evoluir na organização da escalada esportiva, difundindo a prática em outras regiões, preparando profissionais com conhecimento teórico-prático e fomentando financeiramente os atletas.

Biomechanical impact-related variables and perception of comfort in running shoes with different cushioning technologies

Este trabalho teve como objetivo investigar as relações entre a percepção de amortecimento, conforto e as variáveis biomecânicas relacionadas ao impacto (pressão plantar e força reação do solo) durante a corrida comquatro diferentes tecnologias de amortecimento de calçados esportivos. Vinte e dois corredores recreacionais do sexo masculino (18 a 45 anos) correram (12 km/h) com 4 calçados de corridacom diferentes sistemas de amortecimento: Gel, Air, Adiprene e EVA (Etil Vinil Acetato) comdiferentes densidades. Nove itens relacionados a percepção do conforto, cinco variáveis da força de reação do solo e nove da pressão plantar foram avaliadas durante a corrida. Cincovariáveis biomecânicas relacionadas à força reação do solo produzida durante a corrida foram mensuradas por meio de uma plataforma de força em ambiente de laboratório e nove variáveis relacionadas à pressão plantar foram adquiridas pelo sistema PedarX de palmilhas em uma pista de corrida. As 14variáveis biomecânicas e os nove itensde conforto foram comparados entre os calçados por meio de ANOVAs para medidas repetidas. As relações entre as variáveis da força e da pressão plantar e entre conforto geral e as variáveis biomecânicas foram investigadas por meio docoeficiente de correlação de Pearson. Análises de regressão stepwise backward foram realizadas para predizer o conforto geral e as percepções do amortecimento na região do retropé e antepé de cada calçado. A análise de correlação feita entre o conforto geral e as variáveis biomecânicas para cada um dos4 modelos de calçados apresentou relações entre fracas e moderadas, embora não significativas. A análise de regressão revelou somente para o calçado Adiprene que 56% do conforto geral percebido pelo usuário pode ser explicado pelas variáveis taxa de propulsão e integral da pressão no antepé (p=0,015) e que 33% da percepção de amortecimento no antepé pode ser explicado pelas variáveis segundo pico de força e taxa de propulsão (p=0,016). Assim, de maneira geral, não se pode predizer o conforto geral e a percepção de amortecimento dos calçados estudados por meio do impacto e da pressão plantar recebidos, já quesomente uma entre quatro tecnologias estudadas apresentou este comportamento de prediçãoThis study aimed to investigate the relationship between the perception of comfort and impact-related biomechanical parameters (plantar pressure and ground reaction force) during running with four different types of cushioning technology in running shoes.Twenty-two men, recreational runners (18 to 45 years) ran 12 km/hwith running footwear with four different cushioning systems: Gel, Air, Adiprene e EVA (Ethyl Vinyl Acetate) com various densities. Outcome measures included nine items related to perception of comfort,five variables of ground reaction force and nine of plantar pressure that were evaluated during running. Five biomechanical variables related to ground reaction force were acquired with an AMTI force plate in the laboratory environment. Nine variables related to plantar pressure were acquired by the PedarX system instrumented insoles on a running track.The 14 biomechanical variables and the nine items of comfort were compared amongfootwears using repeated measure ANOVAs. Pearson correlation coefficients were calculated to investigate the relationship between the perceptions of comfort and the biomechanical variables for all the footwear. Step-wise regression analyses were employed to determine which group of the biomechanical variables could best predict general footwear comfortand perception of cushioning in the rearfoot and forefoot region of each evaluated footwear.Correlation analysis made between the general comfort and biomechanical variables for the four types of shoesshowed between low and moderate correlation coefficients,although not significant. Regression analysis revealed that 56% of the perceived general comfort can be explained by the variables push-off rate and pressure integral over the forefoot (p=0.015) and that 33% of the cushioning perception over the forefoot can be explained by second peak force and push-off rate (p=0.016). Thus, in general, one cannot predict the overall comfort and cushioning perception of a running shoe studied through impact and plantar pressure received, since only one of the four technologies studied showed this behavior predictio

The influence of different cushioning systems of sports shoes on running economy and performance

O objetivo geral do estudo foi investigar o impacto do calçado minimalista e dos calçados esportivos com entressola de termoplástico Poliuretano expandido (TPE) sobre os parâmetros fisiológicos e o desempenho durante a corrida. O estudo 1 comparou o calçado minimalista e o calçado com TPE na economia de corrida (EC) e o desempenho. Doze corredores homens foram submetidos aos seguintes testes: a) teste progressivo até a exaustão para caracterização da amostra; b) duas corridas contrarrelógio de 3 km em uma pista de atletismo de 400 m e ao final dos testes responderam uma avaliação de conforto. c) quatro testes de corrida submáxima de 6 minutos em uma esteira para determinar a EC, o custo de oxigênio (CTO2) e a componente vertical da força reação do solo. Houve uma maior EC (~2,4%) (P = 0,01), aumento do primeiro pico (~15,8%) (P = 0,01) e diminuição da taxa de propulsão (~15,9%) (P = 0,01) no TPE em comparação ao calçado minimalista. No entanto, não houve diferenças significativas entre TPE e minimalistas para CTO2 (P = 0,61) e desempenho total de corrida (P = 0,61). Essas descobertas revelaram que o calçado TPE produz uma EC maior e uma taxa de propulsão mais baixa em comparação com calçados minimalistas, mas essas melhorias não foram acompanhadas por mudanças no CTO2 e, consequentemente, no desempenho na corrida. O estudo 2 comparou 3 calçados com diferenças percentuais de TPE inserido na entressola. As principais diferenças metodológicas foram a análise da EMG e o teste de corrida de 10 km. Não houve diferença estatística entre os calçados para as variáveis EC, componente vertical da força reação do solo (FRS), EMG e desempenho. A análise de regressão revelou que 96% do desempenho em uma prova de 10 km podem ser explicados pelas variáveis altura do arco e controle médio-lateral para o modelo de calçado TPE 55%. Nenhuma variável biomecânica analisada neste estudo foi capaz de identificar alguma diferença que pudesse estabelecer uma diferença entre os calçados que repercutisse em desempenho ou EC. Os resultados práticos dos estudos revelaram que correr com calçado TPE melhora a EC em comparação ao calçado minimalista. No entanto, a melhora na EC não se refletiu em desempenho no teste de corrida de 3 km. Diferentes porcentagens de TPE inseridos na entressola do calçado não produziram diferenças na EC e desempenho em uma prova de 10km. Desta forma, ainda não é possível dizer qual calçado é capaz de reduzir o tempo gasto em uma prova de corrida de curta ou longa duraçãoThe overall objective of the study was to investigate the impact of minimalist footwear and sports shoes with midsole thermoplastic expanded polyurethane (TPE) on physiological parameters and performance during running. Study 1 compared minimalist shoes and TPE shoes in running economy and performance. Twelve male distance runners performed the following tests: a) a maximal incremental test to characterize the sample; b) two 3-km time-trials on an outdoor 400 m track and at the end of tests answered an evaluation of comfort. c) four 6-min submaximal running tests on a treadmill to determine the RE, energetic cost (CTO2) of 3 km running time-trial and ground reaction force parameters. The athletes performed the sub-maximal running tests and 3-km time trials using the TPE and minimalist shoes. There was a higher RE (~2.4%) (P = 0.01), increased first peak (~15.8%) (P = 0.01), and decrease push-off rate (~15.9%) (P = 0.01) in TPU compared with minimalist shoes. However, there were not significant differences TPU and minimalist shoes for CTO2 (P = 0.61) and overall running performance (P = 0.61). These findings revealed that TPU produces a higher RE and a lower push-off rate when compared to minimalist shoes, but these improvements were not accompanied by changes in CTO2 and, consequently in running performance. Study 2 compared 3 shoes with differences percentage TPE inserted in the midsole. The main methodological differences were the EMG analysis and the 10 km running time-trial. There was no statistical difference between shoes for the EC, vertical component of ground reaction force and EMG. Regression analysis revealed that 96% of the performance in a 10 km running time-trial can be explained by the variable height of the arch and medial-lateral control to the shoe model TPE 55%. No biomechanical variable analyzed in this study was able to identify any differences that could establish a difference between the shoes that had repercussions on RE or performance. The practical results of the studies have shown that running with TPE improves the RE compared to minimalist shoes. However, the improvement in RE was not reflected in performance in the 3-km running time-trial. Different percentages of TPE inserted in the shoe midsole did not produce differences in RE and performance in a 10km running time-trial. Thus, it is not possible to tell which shoes is able to reduce the time spent on a short or long running rac

Dynamic Patterns of Forces and Loading Rate in Runners with Unilateral Plantar Fasciitis: A Cross-Sectional Study.

The etiology of plantar fasciitis (PF) has been related to several risk factors, but the magnitude of the plantar load is the most commonly described factor. Although PF is the third most-common injury in runners, only two studies have investigated this factor in runners, and their results are still inconclusive regarding the injury stage.Analyze and compare the plantar loads and vertical loading rate during running of runners in the acute stage of PF to those in the chronic stage of the injury in relation to healthy runners.Forty-five runners with unilateral PF (30 acute and 15 chronic) and 30 healthy control runners were evaluated while running at 12 km/h for 40 meters wearing standardized running shoes and Pedar-X insoles. The contact area and time, maximum force, and force-time integral over the rearfoot, midfoot, and forefoot were recorded and the loading rate (20-80% of the first vertical peak) was calculated. Groups were compared by ANOVAs (p<0.05).Maximum force and force-time integral over the rearfoot and the loading rate was higher in runners with PF (acute and chronic) compared with controls (p<0.01). Runners with PF in the acute stage showed lower loading rate and maximum force over the rearfoot compared to runners in the chronic stage (p<0.01).Runners with PF showed different dynamic patterns of plantar loads during running over the rearfoot area depending on the injury stage (acute or chronic). In the acute stage of PF, runners presented lower loading rate and forces over the rearfoot, possibly due to dynamic mechanisms related to pain protection of the calcaneal area

Descriptive statistics (mean ± standard deviation) and comparisons between acute plantar fasciitis (PF), chronic PF and control groups regarding their maximum force and force-time integral (normalized by body weight, BW) and contact area in each plantar area.

<p>^<i>&</i><i>p</i> value were calculated using ANOVAS test and <i>Newman-Keuls post-hoc test</i>.</p><p>Descriptive statistics (mean ± standard deviation) and comparisons between acute plantar fasciitis (PF), chronic PF and control groups regarding their maximum force and force-time integral (normalized by body weight, BW) and contact area in each plantar area.</p

Descriptive statistics (mean ± standard deviation) and comparisons between acute plantar fasciitis (PF), chronic PF and control groups regarding their demographic, anthropometric, and running practice characteristics.

<p>^<i>&</i><i>p</i> value were calculated using <i>one-way ANOVAs</i>.</p><p>Descriptive statistics (mean ± standard deviation) and comparisons between acute plantar fasciitis (PF), chronic PF and control groups regarding their demographic, anthropometric, and running practice characteristics.</p

Descriptive statistics (mean ± standard deviation) and comparisons between acute plantar fasciitis (PF), chronic PF and control groups regarding the plantar loading rate normalized by body weight (BW).

<p>^<i>&</i><i>p</i> value were calculated using ANOVAS test and <i>Newman-Keuls post-hoc test</i>.</p><p>Descriptive statistics (mean ± standard deviation) and comparisons between acute plantar fasciitis (PF), chronic PF and control groups regarding the plantar loading rate normalized by body weight (BW).</p

Descriptive statistics (mean ± standard deviation) and comparisons between acute plantar fasciitis (PF), chronic PF and control groups regarding their total contact time of the foot.

<p>^<i>&</i><i>p</i> value were calculated using ANOVAS test and <i>Newman-Keuls post-hoc test</i>.</p><p>Descriptive statistics (mean ± standard deviation) and comparisons between acute plantar fasciitis (PF), chronic PF and control groups regarding their total contact time of the foot.</p