The chemical characterisation by HPLC–PDA and HPLC–ESI–MS of unaged and aged fibre samples dyed with sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L.)

The acid-hydrolysed extracts of freshly dyed reference fibres of sawwort harvested from several different geographical locations were characterised by the use of high-performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection (HPLC–PDA) and coupled with electrospray ionisation mass spectrometric analysis (HPLC–ESI–MS). A related species, Serratula coronata L. was also characterised. The flavonols quercetin, 3-O-methylquercetin and kaempferol, and the flavones luteolin and apigenin were observed in all samples. Accelerated ageing studies confirmed the sensitivity of the flavonol components to photo-oxidative degradation. The poor lightfastness and small relative proportion of these flavonol components found in the extracts of freshly dyed sawwort limits their use as sawwort ‘markers’ in historical samples

Dye analysis undertaken in the National Museums of Scotland between October 1989 and September 1990

No abstract available

Dye analysis undertaken in the National Museums of Scotland between October 1989 and September 1990

No abstract available

Forgotten histories & possible futures: Learning from 20th century fibres and films made from regenerated protein sources

This paper explores the forgotten history of fibres and films made from regenerated protein sources such as milk, soyabeans, maize, peanuts, egg-white, feathers and slaughter-house products from historical, technological and ecological perspectives. It argues that learning from these experimental 20th century fibres can provide new approaches for creating sustainable fibres for the 21st century. As war loomed, politicians and planners became anxious about the availability of wool for military requirements. Transforming surplus or waste proteins into fibres and films was actively encouraged. Major companies registered patents using regenerated proteins. Du Pont argued such ‘new and valuable composition of matter comprising intimate mixtures of proteins and synthetic linear polyamides’ resulted in strong, flexible films. Analysing the rhetoric of national duty and ideology associated with these materials illuminates their trajectory from futuristic and utopian to association with deprivation and substitution. Thomson’s rubbish theory is used to analyse their disappearance from cultural memory. Evidence from these failed and forgotten fibre is reframed as the basis for new experimentation into sustainable fibres. Material studies of these regenerated proteins draws on textual and visual archival sources, including patents, fibre samples, and rare surviving textiles and dress from international museum collections. Contemporaneous technical literature describing historical methods of industrial production and use gains particular importance, bringing insight into chemical and physical expectations of the fibres with which to develop appropriate scientific methods for identification, and to investigate their material significance and preservation. Issues of sustainability in relation to materials used for manufacturing textiles and the impact of such textiles during use (e.g. generation of microfibres) and at the end of their life will be discussed. These present opportunities for using waste materials for a sustainable fibre. Textile fibres produced from food waste that do not require any extra land use, whose microfibres have minimal impact in the environment, and that are fit for purpose could truly provide a next generation of material. Deeper understanding of previous experimental work in the use of surplus/waste proteins to produce fibres and films, and cultural reactions to these materials, is valuable in developing innovative fibres to meet current ecological concerns

Forgotten Histories and Possible Futures: Learning from Twentieth Century Fibres and Films made from Waste Regenerated Protein Sources

This paper explores the forgotten history of fibres and films made from regenerated protein sources such as milk, soya beans, corn (maize), peanuts, egg-white, feathers and slaughter-house products from historical, technological and ecological perspectives. It argues that learning from these experimental twentieth-century fibres can provide new approaches for creating sustainable fibres for the twenty-first century. As war loomed, politicians and planners became anxious about the availability of wool for military requirements. Transforming surplus or waste proteins into fibres and films was actively encouraged. Major companies registered patents using regenerated proteins. DuPont argued such ‘new and valuable composition of matter comprising intimate mixtures of proteins and synthetic linear polyamides’ resulted in strong, flexible films. Analysing the rhetoric of national duty and ideology associated with these materials illuminates their trajectory from futuristic and utopian to association with deprivation and substitution. Thomson’s rubbish theory is used to analyse their disappearance from cultural memory. Evidence from these failed and forgotten fibre is reframed as the basis for new experimentation into sustainable fibres. Contemporaneous technical literature describing historical methods of industrial production and use gains particular importance, bringing insight into chemical and physical expectations of the fibres with which to develop appropriate scientific methods for identification, and to investigate their material significance and preservation. Issues of sustainability in relation to materials used for manufacturing textiles and the impact of such textiles during use (e.g. generation of microfibres) and at the end of their life will be discussed. These present opportunities for using waste materials for a sustainable fibre. Textile fibres produced from food waste that do not require any extra land use, whose microfibres have minimal impact in the environment, and that are fit for purpose could truly provide a next generation of material. Deeper understanding of previous experimental work in the use of surplus/waste proteins to produce fibres and films, and cultural reactions to these material, is valuable in developing innovative fibres to meet current ecological concerns

Liquid chromatography determination of natural dyes in extracts from historical Scottish textiles excavated from peat bogs

Textiles excavated from Scottish sites belonging now to the collections of the National Museums of Scotland, including seventeenth century textiles from peat bogs in the Scottish Highlands and Islands, were selected for analysis by high performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection (PDA HPLC) to detect whether any dyes remained and, if so, to identify their biological sources. Dye components were identified in 36 of the 81 samples analysed. Although it was not possible to identify the exact sources of the dyestuffs because of the wide-spread occurrence of these natural dyes components, the study has shown that textiles previously not thought to have been coloured had detectable traces of dye. Before the historical textiles were analyzed, an improved extraction procedure that combined the routine acid hydrolysis method with one using dimethylformamide (DMF) was applied. The DMF method enabled increased recovery of major flavonoid and anthraquinoid compounds, and very high efficiency of recovery of indigotin even in textiles with no colour visible, thereby complementing the acid hydrolysis method already in use. Extracts from historical thread samples were analysed by PDA HPLC using a reversed-phase gradient system comprising of a C18 column (150 mm × 4.6 mm i.d., 25 ± 1 °C) with water, methanol and o-phosphoric acid at an eluent flow rate of 1.2 ml/min. A preliminary investigation to improve the detection limits further for a selection of natural dyes was made by comparing results from the 4.6 mm internal diameter (i.d.) column with a narrow bore C18 column (2.1 mm i.d.). An increase in the detector response was observed for narrow-bore column proving its possibility of enhancement of sensitivity

Forgotten Histories & Possible Futures: Learning from 20th century fibres and films made from waste regenerated protein sources

This paper explores the forgotten history of fibres and films made from regenerated protein sources such as milk, soyabeans, maize, peanuts, egg-white, feathers and slaughter-house products from historical, technological and ecological perspectives. It argues that learning from these experimental 20th century fibres can provide new approaches for creating sustainable fibres for the 21st century. As war loomed, politicians and planners became anxious about the availability of wool for military requirements. Transforming surplus or waste proteins into fibres and films was actively encouraged. Major companies registered patents using regenerated proteins. Du Pont argued such ‘new and valuable composition of matter comprising intimate mixtures of proteins and synthetic linear polyamides’ resulted in strong, flexible films. Analysing the rhetoric of national duty and ideology associated with these materials illuminates their trajectory from futuristic and utopian to association with deprivation and substitution. Thomson’s rubbish theory is used to analyse their disappearance from cultural memory. Evidence from these failed and forgotten fibre is reframed as the basis for new experimentation into sustainable fibres. Material studies of these regenerated proteins draws on textual and visual archival sources, including patents, fibre samples, and rare surviving textiles and dress from international museum collections. Contemporaneous technical literature describing historical methods of industrial production and use gains particular importance, bringing insight into chemical and physical expectations of the fibres with which to develop appropriate scientific methods for identification, and to investigate their material significance and preservation. Issues of sustainability in relation to materials used for manufacturing textiles and the impact of such textiles during use (e.g. generation of microfibres) and at the end of their life will be discussed. These present opportunities for using waste materials for a sustainable fibre. Textile fibres produced from food waste that do not require any extra land use, whose microfibres have minimal impact in the environment, and that are fit for purpose could truly provide a next generation of material. Deeper understanding of previous experimental work in the use of surplus/waste proteins to produce fibres and films, and cultural reactions to these materials, is valuable in developing innovative fibres to meet current ecological concerns