Particle size and morphological characterization of cosmetic emulsified systems by Optical Coherence Tomography (OCT)

The physicochemical attributes of emulsified systems are influenced by the characteristics of their internal phase droplets (concentration, size and morphology), which can be modified not only by the formulation components, but also by the analytical methodology employed. Thus, the aim of this work involved the physicochemical characterization of cosmetic emulsions obtained from different surfactants, as well as the introduction of the optical coherence tomography (OCT) as the analytical technique employed for the morphological characterization and particle size determination of the formulations. Three emulsions were prepared, differing at the type and concentration of the surfactant used, and their droplet sizes were evaluated through optical microscopy, laser diffraction and OCT. The microscopic analysis and the laser diffraction techniques provided an average particle size minor than 6.0 µm, not detected by the OCT technique, which could identify only bigger particles of the emulsified systems' internal phase. The results testify that OCT was suitable for the morphological characterization of cosmetic emulsions; however, the technique needs to be improved to ensure a better sensitivity in the analysis of smaller particles.Os atributos físico-químicos de sistemas emulsionados são influenciados pelas características de suas gotículas de fase interna (concentração, tamanho e morfologia), as quais podem ser modificadas não apenas pelos componentes da formulação, mas também pela metodologia analítica empregada. Desta forma, o objetivo deste trabalho envolveu a caracterização físico-química de emulsões cosméticas obtidas a partir de diferentes tensoativos, bem como a introdução da tomografia de coerência óptica (OCT) como a técnica analítica utilizada para a caracterização morfológica e determinação do tamanho de partícula das formulações. Três emulsões foram preparadas, diferindo no tipo e concentração do tensoativo empregado, e seus tamanhos de gotícula foram avaliados por meio das técnicas de microscopia óptica, difração a laser e OCT. As técnicas de microscopia óptica e difração a laser forneceram tamanhos de partícula médios menores de 6.0 µm, não detectados pela técnica de OCT, que permitiu apenas a identificação de partículas maiores pertencentes à fase interna dos sistemas emulsionados. Os resultados reforçam a introdução da OCT como metodologia promissora para a caracterização morfológica de emulsões cosméticas; no entanto, a técnica requer aprimoramento para garantir maior sensibilidade na análise de partículas de menor tamanho

Hydrolyzed collagen interferes with in vitro photoprotective effectiveness of sunscreens

The chronological skin aging is a progressive and natural process with genetic and physiological changes. However, ultraviolet (UV) radiation may accelerate the oxidative stress, generating carcinogenesis and photoaging. Natural compounds and their applications are considered a trend in the cosmetic market. The protein-based film-forming compounds play an important role, once it collaborates for the better distribution of sunscreens on the skin. Here we investigated the in vitro photoprotective effectiveness of sunscreens containing the hydrolyzed collagen associated with UVA, UVB and/or inorganic filters. Sunscreens were developed with octocrylene (7.5%), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) (3.0%) and/or titanium dioxide (5.0%), associated or not with the hydrolyzed collagen (3.0%). In vitro photoprotective effectiveness was determined in a Labsphere(r) UV2000S by the establishment of the sun protection factor (SPF) and critical wavelength (nm) values. Physicochemical and organoleptic characteristics were also assayed. The hydrolyzed collagen subjectively improved the formulation sensory characteristics. However, this bioactive compound led to a decrease of the SPF values of the photoprotective formulations containing octocrylene alone and octocrylene + butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane + TiO2. This inadequate interaction may be considered during the development of new sunscreens intended to contain protein-based components

Gelatin-based microspheres crosslinked with glutaraldehyde and rutin oriented to cosmetics

Glutaraldehyde (GTA) has been extensively used as a gelatin crosslinking agent, however, new natural ones have been suggested as more biocompatible. Polyphenols are possible candidates and the flavonols, such as rutin (RUT), also exhibit potential synergism with sunscreens and antioxidant agents used in cosmetics. In this work, gelatin microspheres (M0) were obtained and crosslinked with GTA 10 mM (MG) or RUT 10 mM (MR), dissolved in acetone:NaOH 0,01M (70:30 v/v). MG exhibited crosslinking extent of 54.4%. Gelatin, M0, MG and MR did not elicit any signs of skin damage, regarding the formation of erythema, the barrier function disruption and negative interference in the stratum corneum hydration. Oily dispersions containing M0, MG or MR, isolated or combined with benzophenone-3 or octyl methoxycinnamate, suggested that the microspheres, at a 5.0% w/w, had no additional chemical or physical photoprotective effect in vitro. Crosslinking with RUT had occurred, but in a lower degree than GTA. Microspheres had not improved sun protection parameters, although, non-treated gelatin interfered positively with the SPF for both UV filters. The in vivo studies demonstrated that these materials had very good skin compatibility

Ferulic acid in sunscreens: development and multifunctional effectiveness in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo.

A conscientização da população com relação aos malefícios da radiação ultravioleta (UV) levaram à adoção de hábitos preventivos, com destaque para a utilização diária de formulações fotoprotetoras. Ainda que os filtros solares tradicionais sejam efetivos na absorção ou reflexão da radiação UV, sabe-se que a sua atuação contra os radicais livres é limitada, fator que exige a incorporação de compostos antioxidantes às preparações, visando proteção cutânea de excelência. O presente trabalho objetivou o desenvolvimento e avaliação de formulações multifuncionais contendo os filtros solares bemotrizinol e octil triazona, acrescidos do composto bioativo ácido ferúlico - reconhecido pelas suas propriedades antioxidante e fotoprotetora. As formulações foram desenvolvidas de acordo com um delineamento experimental do tipo fatorial (DoE 23) e avaliadas por meio de metodologias in vitro, in vivo e ex vivo para determinação de sua eficácia fotoprotetora e potencial antioxidante. As emulsões foram consideradas estáveis, seguras, com valor de pH biocompatível com a pele e viscosidade aparente adequada ao uso proposto. O delineamento experimental comprovou o potencial antioxidante e fotoprotetor do ácido ferúlico, visto que a presença deste promoveu aumento de até 90% na atividade antioxidante in vitro das formulações, bem como acréscimo de 32% no Fator de Proteção Solar (FPS) in vivo e 24% no Fator de Proteção UVA (UVA-PF). Por meio do ensaio ex vivo, a formulação contendo o ácido ferúlico apresentou tendência em aumentar a atividade antioxidante natural da pele, comparativamente à formulação contendo apenas os filtros solares e à pele não tratada; ademais, houve queda no potencial antioxidante da pele após a exposição à radiação UV, enfatizando a necessidade de proteção cutânea frente aos danos oxidativos. Os resultados comprovaram os efeitos antioxidante e fotoprotetor combinados do ácido ferúlico, em especial quando em sinergismo com filtros solares, tornando o composto bioativo um candidato promissor no desenvolvimento de formulações multifuncionais inovadoras, seguras e eficazes contra os efeitos nocivos decorrentes da exposição solar.The public awareness regarding the harmful effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation led to preventive habits, especially the daily use of sunscreens. Although traditional solar filters are effective in UV radiation absorption or reflection, it is known that their activity against free radicals is restricted, an aspect that requires the incorporation of antioxidants to preparations, aiming superior skin protection. Here, we developed and evaluated multifunctional formulations containing the sunscreens bemotrizinol and ethylhexyl triazone plus the bioactive compound ferulic acid - known for its antioxidant and photoprotective properties. Formulations were developed according to a factorial experimental design (DoE 23) and evaluated using in vitro, in vivo and ex vivo methods to determine its photoprotective effectiveness and antioxidant potential. The emulsions were considered stable, safe, with pH value biocompatible with the skin and apparent viscosity suitable for the proposed use. The experimental design evidenced the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of ferulic acid, once its presence increased to 90% the in vitro antioxidant activity of the formulations, as well as 32% increase in the in vivo Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and 24% increase in the UVA Protection Factor (UVA-PF). Through the ex vivo assay, the formulation containing ferulic acid tended to increase the natural antioxidant activity of the skin, compared to the formulation containing only UV filters or the untreated skin; moreover, there was a decrease in the antioxidant potential of the skin after UV radiation exposure, emphasizing the need for skin protection against oxidative damage. The results confirmed the antioxidant and photoprotective effects of ferulic acid, especially when in synergy with UV filters, making the bioactive compound a promising candidate in the development of innovative, safe and effective multifunctional formulations against the harmful effects of sun exposure

Stability and efficacy of sunscreens containing inorganic filters and quercetin

Exposure to the sun can have health benefits, however, excess exposure can cause skin damage, such as skin cancer. Photoprotection can be used as a preventive method against the harmful effects of the ultraviolet (UV) radiation and Brazilian biodiversity is a fertile field for research in this area. Therefore, the aim of this study was the development of sunscreens containing quercetin (bioactive compound) and inorganic filters (titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) with further characterization of the formulae and evaluation of stability. Formulations containing the bioactive compound, isolated or in association with the inorganic filters, presented: pH values biocompatible with the skin; apparent viscosity between 10550 and 23600 cP; sun protection factor (SPF) between 2.1 and 22.5; and broad spectrum protection, with critical wavelengths above 379 nm. It was found that the association of quercetin with inorganic filters was not adequate due to the negative interactions that occurred between the bioactive compound and the metals, which were only identified during the stability study. However, considering the in vitro estimated efficacy of the isolated flavonoid, its use can still be explored as an alternative substitute to classic UVfilters

Particle size and morphological characterization of cosmetic emulsified systems by Optical Coherence Tomography (OCT)

ABSTRACT The physicochemical attributes of emulsified systems are influenced by the characteristics of their internal phase droplets (concentration, size and morphology), which can be modified not only by the formulation components, but also by the analytical methodology employed. Thus, the aim of this work involved the physicochemical characterization of cosmetic emulsions obtained from different surfactants, as well as the introduction of the optical coherence tomography (OCT) as the analytical technique employed for the morphological characterization and particle size determination of the formulations. Three emulsions were prepared, differing at the type and concentration of the surfactant used, and their droplet sizes were evaluated through optical microscopy, laser diffraction and OCT. The microscopic analysis and the laser diffraction techniques provided an average particle size minor than 6.0 µm, not detected by the OCT technique, which could identify only bigger particles of the emulsified systems' internal phase. The results testify that OCT was suitable for the morphological characterization of cosmetic emulsions; however, the technique needs to be improved to ensure a better sensitivity in the analysis of smaller particles

Gelatin-based microspheres crosslinked with glutaraldehyde and rutin oriented to cosmetics

ABSTRACT Glutaraldehyde (GTA) has been extensively used as a gelatin crosslinking agent, however, new natural ones have been suggested as more biocompatible. Polyphenols are possible candidates and the flavonols, such as rutin (RUT), also exhibit potential synergism with sunscreens and antioxidant agents used in cosmetics. In this work, gelatin microspheres (M0) were obtained and crosslinked with GTA 10 mM (MG) or RUT 10 mM (MR), dissolved in acetone:NaOH 0,01M (70:30 v/v). MG exhibited crosslinking extent of 54.4%. Gelatin, M0, MG and MR did not elicit any signs of skin damage, regarding the formation of erythema, the barrier function disruption and negative interference in the stratum corneum hydration. Oily dispersions containing M0, MG or MR, isolated or combined with benzophenone-3 or octyl methoxycinnamate, suggested that the microspheres, at a 5.0% w/w, had no additional chemical or physical photoprotective effect in vitro. Crosslinking with RUT had occurred, but in a lower degree than GTA. Microspheres had not improved sun protection parameters, although, non-treated gelatin interfered positively with the SPF for both UV filters. The in vivo studies demonstrated that these materials had very good skin compatibility