Laser Welding of Textiles: A creative approach to technology through a reflective craft practice

How can a reflective craft practice progress the development of an emerging production technology for textiles? In an increasingly digital age of manufacture the role of the craft practitioner and particularly hand making processes has had to be reconsidered. There are those that would argue the depletion of goods made by hand simply negates the need for making skills in the development of new products; however, there is an emerging argument that places more value in the potential benefit of craft practice, and particularly making, to bridge between scientific knowledge and the needs of industry. This paper calls upon the research of Dr. Kate Goldsworthy and Helen Paine, who have utilised laser-welding equipment, to explore the benefits of a ‘craft approach’ in assisting the development of an emerging technology, for decorative and functional textile finishing applications. Goldsworthy first worked with the technology in 2008 during her doctoral research, and has used it to develop unique surface finishes for textiles that preserve material purity and can be recycled within a closed-loop system. The inventors of the technology, TWI, fund Paine’s current doctoral research, and wrote the original brief for the project that is essentially technology driven; from which Paine has chosen to investigate new aesthetic and functional opportunities for stretch textiles offered by the equipment. Despite the disparate contexts for the research of Goldsworthy and Paine, their shared background in textile design has led them both to follow a familiar practice-led approach. In this unified approach they have been able to collectively recognise the benefits of working in a hands-on way with the technology. This paper will explore techniques undertaken by both researchers during their investigations and share their insights from working with the laser welding equipment, made available to them by TWI. More widely, the paper will demonstrate the benefit of an intuitive craft approach in the development of an emerging technology

Evolutionary approach of a textile designer through crossdisciplinary research practice: A case study in the field of advanced methods for joining textiles

This paper will discuss the evolving methodological approach of Helen Paine who has a background in knitted textiles for fashion and completed her cross-disciplinary PhD at RCA in 2016. The PhD was sponsored by TWI: an engineering institution that specialise in materials joining and partnered with Speedo International to develop capability in the field of advanced methods for joining textiles. A multi-strategy framework that encompassed both craft-design and scientific methods was applied by the research to investigate new opportunities for ultrasonic and laser welding technologies. Specific insights relating to how and when either a craft-design or scientific approach was applied throughout the research trajectory will be discussed with the aim of contributing to an emerging methodology for textile-designers engaging in cross-disciplinary research practice

Laser shaping: a method for controlling the elastic behaviour of stretch fabrics for a targeted and graduated compressive effect on the body.

This research was commissioned and funded by The Welding Institute (TWI). The Welding Institute are a global research and development facility specialising in the joining of materials for industrial applications. The purpose of this research was to develop capability in textiles joining, particularly ultrasonic and laser welding technologies, which is relatively new to TWI. The appointed researcher adopted a ‘multi-strategy’ (Cresswell 2009) approach to the research; encompassing methods that were both familiar and unfamiliar to those usually adopted by TWI employees and researchers, whom mostly come from engineering and scientific backgrounds. The research was primarily undertaken with the adoption of a ‘craft-design’ approach that uses material investigation to explore and uncover interesting leads for investigation, which was the familiar approach of the researcher coming from a background in textile design. Material studies were carried out inquisitively without the formation of a particular hypothesis and insights were discussed with industry to identify potential commercial and functional application opportunities. Following the identification of an interest in welding stretchy fabrics Speedo agreed to become the main industry partner for the research, providing materials, access to testing equipment and validation of commercial opportunities for material samples relative to their application. The main hypothesis for the research Laser melted patterns can be used to control the elastic behaviour of stretchy textiles to have a targeted and variable compressive effect on the body developed through discussion with Speedo in response to material samples produced using transmission laser welding equipment. A predominant scientific approach was adopted during the second phase of the research to quantify and control this effect: to demonstrate repeatability and test it both on fabric and the body. Methods that were unfamiliar to the researcher prior to this research such as mechanical testing and microscopic analysis were employed. Selection of either a ‘craft design’ or ‘scientific’ approach was made pragmatically in response to the research as it developed. Through a retrospective analysis of applied methods throughout the research trajectory it has been possible to define this particular ‘multi-strategy’ project as a ‘sequential exploratory’ design (Cresswell 2009), whereby periods of subjective investigation are followed by empirical testing. The main process that has been developed by this research is a decorative method of controlling the elastic behaviour of stretchy fabrics using transmission laser welding equipment for a controlled and variable compressive effect on the body. Compression fabrics are used widely within the medical, lingerie and sportswear fields to apply pressure to the body either for an aesthetic or functional advantage. In swimwear, compression fabrics are applied to streamline the silhouette and minimise drag resistance. The technique developed by this research makes a contribution to knowledge within the field of laser processing of textiles, specifically within the field of transmission laser welding, and within the field of compression apparel. In the field of transmission laser welding a new functional capability for all-over surface patterns has been demonstrated. In the field of compression apparel a new decorative method for achieving an increasingly variable compressive effect for a smoother transition between different zones of stretch has been achieved. N.B. All redacted information throughout this thesis is confidential to Speedo

The Relationship between Skinfold and Ultrasound Measures of Subcutaneous Fat in Untrained Healthy Males

Ultrasound measurement of adipose tissue offers an alternative measure of body composition with less technical skill requirement than skinfolds. However, the relationship between skinfold and ultrasound measurements of adipose tissue is uncertain. The aim of this study was to compare these measures in a healthy untrained male population. One hundred male participants (aged 18–40 years) of varying body compositions had skinfold measures taken at the biceps, triceps and front thigh sites. Ultrasound measures were also taken at the same sites using B-wave ultrasound with a linear probe in the transverse plane. Strong, significant (p < 0.01), positive correlations were observed between skinfold and ultrasound measures at the biceps (r = 0.828), triceps (r = 0.813), and front thigh (r = 0.888) sites. However, there was significant (p < 0.01) variance between the techniques at all measurement sites. Whilst skinfold and ultrasound measures of adipose tissue have good linear agreement, skinfolds are consistently higher at all sites indicating a difference in the nature of the tissue measured via each technique. The exact nature of the relationship should be established on a population-specific basis

Effects of robotic-assisted gait training on the central vascular health of individuals with spinal cord injury: A pilot study.

Objective: To investigate the effect of a short-term, robotic-assisted (exoskeleton) gait training (RGT) program on central and peripheral hemodynamic measures in patients with spinal cord injury (SCI). Design: Parallel group, non-randomized trial with before (baseline) and after (follow-up) assessments. Setting: Single-center, community-based neuro-physiotherapy practice. Participants: Twelve individuals with SCI (ASI A to C). Interventions: Participants completed either a 5-day RGT program plus physiotherapy (n = 6), or a usual care physiotherapy only program (control group; n = 6). The RGT program consisted of daily 60-min physiotherapy and 90-min of RGT. Outcome measures were measured before and after the rehabilitation program. Main outcome measure(s): The primary outcome measure was arterial wave reflection (Augmentation index [AIx]), with central and peripheral blood pressures also reported. Data are presented as mean (SD) and effect sizes (partial eta squared; η2 p). Results: There was a significant reduction in AIx (30 ± 18–21 ± 15%; η2 p=0.75) and mean arterial pressure (89 ± 11–82 ± 10 mmHg; η2 p=0.47) following completion of the RGT program (both P < 0.05). There were no changes in these measures for the control group. Although not significantly different, medium to large effects were observed in favor of RGT for all other central and peripheral measures (η2 p=0.06–0.21), except for heart rate and pulse pressure (η2 p<0.04). Conclusions: RGT using an exoskeleton is a promising therapy for improving cardiovascular health in patients with SCI. Specifically, this study indicates decreased arterial wave reflection and supports the need for larger randomized controlled trials

Evolutionary approach of a textile designer through cross-disciplinary research practice: A case study in the field of advanced methods for joining textiles

This paper will discuss the evolving methodological approach of Helen Paine who has a background in knitted textiles for fashion and completed her cross-disciplinary PhD at RCA in 2016. The PhD was sponsored by TWI: an engineering institution that specialise in materials joining and partnered with Speedo International to develop capability in the field of advanced methods for joining textiles. A multi-strategy framework that encompassed both craft-design and scientific methods was applied by the research to investigate new opportunities for ultrasonic and laser welding technologies. Specific insights relating to how and when either a craft-design or scientific approach was applied throughout the research trajectory will be discussed with the aim of contributing to an emerging methodology for textile-designers engaging in cross-disciplinary research practice

The Relationship between Skinfold and Ultrasound Measures of Subcutaneous Fat in Untrained Healthy Males

From MDPI via Jisc Publications RouterHistory: accepted 2021-10-29, pub-electronic 2021-11-10Publication status: PublishedUltrasound measurement of adipose tissue offers an alternative measure of body composition with less technical skill requirement than skinfolds. However, the relationship between skinfold and ultrasound measurements of adipose tissue is uncertain. The aim of this study was to compare these measures in a healthy untrained male population. One hundred male participants (aged 18–40 years) of varying body compositions had skinfold measures taken at the biceps, triceps and front thigh sites. Ultrasound measures were also taken at the same sites using B-wave ultrasound with a linear probe in the transverse plane. Strong, significant (p 0.01), positive correlations were observed between skinfold and ultrasound measures at the biceps (r = 0.828), triceps (r = 0.813), and front thigh (r = 0.888) sites. However, there was significant (p 0.01) variance between the techniques at all measurement sites. Whilst skinfold and ultrasound measures of adipose tissue have good linear agreement, skinfolds are consistently higher at all sites indicating a difference in the nature of the tissue measured via each technique. The exact nature of the relationship should be established on a population-specific basis