Wave effects on the morphodynamic evolution of an offshore sand bank

The origin and morphodynamic evolution of linear sand banks have been widely studied in recent years. Several investigations have been carried out in order to understand the influence of tide-related parameters, bathymetry and Coriolis force on sand bank formation and maintenance. However, the effect of waves on the net flux of sediments over the sand banks has often been neglected on grounds of the short duration of significant wave activity compared to that of tidal cycles. Nevertheless, the interaction between wave activity and tidal currents leads to a high increase of bottom shear stress, especially at the sand bank crests and, as a consequence, to an increase of sand tranport. This paper investigates the effects of wave activity on the morphology and morphodynamics of the Kwinte Bank (Belgian shelf). Numerical simulations were carried out under different wave conditions to assess wave influence on sand bank evolution. Model verification involved analysis and comparison with field data collected during two different periods. The study shows that wave activity is not only responsible for a large increase in sediment transport but also for a change in direction of the net flux of sediments. Moreover, the morphological analysis of several sand banks supports the idea that wave activity might also have an impact on the shape of these sand banks. Wave climate data can be used to study long-term sand bank dynamics

Modelling the effects of sand extraction, on sediment transport due to tides, on the Kwinte Bank

In recent years, the exploitation of marine aggregates is increasing. As an example, on the Belgian continental shelf, one particular sandbank (the Kwinte Bank) is exploited extensively; this has led to the creation of a 5 m deep depression along its central part. In the present contribution, the influence of these bathymetric changes, on erosion and sedimentation patterns are studied, using numerical modelling, in order to obtain an initial impression of the effect of such intense sand extraction on the stability of the sandbank. Different numerical models are utilised. Twodimensional and three-dimensional hydrodynamic models have been used to derive currents, whilst third generation wave models have been used to simulate the waves. Two different models are presented, which calculate the total load sediment transport as a function of the local currents and waves. These models have been used to investigate the erosional and depositional patterns. The use of two different sediment transport models has some advantages, since the results of sediment transport models are still subject to some important uncertainties. The hydrodynamic model results are validated using ADCP current data, confirming the good performance of the models. Likewise the wave models provide good results, comparing their results with data from a buoy. The sediment transport model results were compared to the residual transport patterns, derived from the asymmetry of dunes. The results obtained seem to be in general agreement with these observations. The numerical models are used to simulate the response of the sediment transport to extensive sand extraction from the sandbank. One ‘worst-case’ scenario and two more realistic scenarios were simulated, whilst the effect of these bathymetric changes on sediment transport was studied. The results show that the intense sand extraction does not seem to influence extensively the stability of the sandbank, but that, as a consequence, there is less erosion and deposition. The model results show, for all of the scenarios, a small amount of deposition on the top of the sandbank; this could be an indication of a regeneration mechanism. A trench, created perpendicular to the crest of the sandbank, could be slowly refilled again. The time-scale of this regeneration and the influence of storms remain uncertain. Although the main emphasis of the paper relates to tidal forcing, a brief discussion is included on the influence of wave action, on sediment transport

Future observational and modelling needs identified on the basis of the existing shelf data

NOWESP has compiled a vast quantity of existing data from the North-West European Shelf. Such a focused task is without precedence. It is now highly recommended that one, or a few national and international data centres or agencies should be chosen and properly supported by the EU, where all available observational data, including the NOWESP data, are collected, stored, regularly updated by the providers of the data, and made available to the researchers. International agreement must be reached on the quality control procedures and quality standards for data to be stored in these data bases. Proper arrangements should be made to preserve the economic value of the data for their "owners" without compromising use of the data by researchers or duplicating data collecting efforts. The continental shelf data needed are concentration fields of temperature, salinity, nutrients, suspended matter and chlorophyll, which can be called "climatological" fields. For this purpose at least one monthly survey on the whole European shelf is needed at least during five years, with a proper spatial resolution e.g. 1 degree by 1 degree, and at least in those areas where climatological data are now totally lacking. From the modelling point of view an alternative would be the availability of data from sufficiently representative fixed stations on the shelf, with weekly sampling for several years

Wind generated rogue waves in an annular wave flume

We investigate experimentally the statistical properties of a wind-generated wave field and the spontaneous formation of rogue waves in an annular flume. Unlike many experiments on rogue waves, where waves are mechanically generated, here the wave field is forced naturally by wind as it is in the ocean. What is unique about the present experiment is that the annular geometry of the tank makes waves propagating circularly in an {\it unlimited-fetch} condition. Within this peculiar framework, we discuss the temporal evolution of the statistical properties of the surface elevation. We show that rogue waves and heavy-tail statistics may develop naturally during the growth of the waves just before the wave height reaches a stationary condition. Our results shed new light on the formation of rogue waves in a natural environment