Crafting sustainable repairs: practice-based approaches to extending the life of clothes

Mass-produced ‘fast fashion’ has changed our relationship with clothing – cheap and easy to acquire, we are unlikely to take time to undertake simple repairs or address issues of maintenance, often caused or exacerbated by poor construction and low quality materials (see for example Goworek et al., 2012; You Gov, 2012; Fletcher, 2008; Birtwistle & Moore, 2007). Through complete lifecycle assessment, extending the useful life of clothes has been identified as the most significant intervention in reducing the impact of the clothing industry (Wrap, 2012). However, academic research emerging from both the UK and Scandinavia has identified practical, social, socioeconomic, systemic and psychological barriers that prevent consumers from performing even the most basic of repairs, and as a result damaged or worn items are discarded or taken out of active use (see for example Armstrong et al., 2014; Middleton, 2014; Cooper et al., 2014; Fletcher, 2013; Goworek et al., 2012; Laitala & Boks, 2012). This paper explores the barriers to mending, different perspectives on the reasons behind them, suggested solutions and contemporary approaches to overcoming them. As textile designers and academics whose work is embedded in sustainable principles, we discuss the findings of our own practice-based approaches in relation to these, in order to consider the role fashion and textile designers can play in enabling solutions. Research has been gathered through participatory design workshops and public engagement events, informed by review of historical, existing and emerging repair practices, and personal craft-led design praxis. We have explored ways to address the barriers, add value to the acts of repair by re-framing them as social design-led sharing activities, and discuss the potential of participatory craft praxis as a tool to motivate greater public engagement in repair practice

Enzyme activity in terrestrial soil in relation to exploration of the Martian surface

Sensitive tests for the detection of extracellular enzyme activity in Martian soil was investigated using simulated Martian soil. Enzyme action at solid-liquid water interfaces and at low humidity were studied, and a kinetic scheme was devised and tested based on the growth of microorganisms and the oxidation of ammonium nitrite

Radical Parkhead

Weave Parkhead! was a collaboration between schools, community groups, weavers and archaeologists to create a series of four woven panels celebrating the history and heritage of Parkhead. The project was delivered as part of the Parkhead Cross Townscape Heritage Initiative. Over the 2015-2016, the Weave Parkhead! team ran a series of workshops and events in and around Parkhead, combining weaving, creative craft skills and historical research with the aim of revealing the spirit of Parkhead – the stories, people and places that make it unique. The conversations we had during these sessions informed and inspired the design of the panels. The completed panels will be installed in the foyer of the former Parkhead Primary School. Renovation works on the Category B-Listed school are currently underway and the building is due to open as a local enterprise centre in 2017. An exhibition of the panels and accompanying research was held at Imageo Gallery, Glasgow on 20-25 August 2016. Curated by Ingrid Shearer and Carolyn Alexander, featuring the panels created by Angharad McLaren, Shielagh Tacey, Bespoke Atelier and Lauren Day

Darn Stylish I and Darn Stylish II

Darn Stylish I (2014). [Damaged wool menswear garment, wool/nylon blend darning yarn and lurex thread]. Darn Stylish II (2014). [Damaged wool womenswear garment, wool/nylon blend darning yarn

Waterfowl Populations in Eastern Lancaster Sound and Western Baffin Bay

The seasonal distributions of oldsquaws (Clangula hyemalis), common eiders (Somateria mollissima) and king eiders (S. spectabilis) were determined through aerial surveys in eastern Lancaster Sound (1976, 1978 and 1979) and northwest Baffin Bay (1978, 1979). Sightings of geese are summarized in an Appendix. The major spring influx of both eiders occurs about the second week of May but most oldsquaws do not arrive until the first half of June. In spring, all three species are rare in offshore areas, are most abundant along coasts in the northern half of the study area, and tend to depart to nesting areas during the last week of June. Oldsqaws molt along coasts of Lancaster Sound and northwest Baffin Bay, but both species of eiders undertake molt migrations. Three waves of eider out-migration were detected in 1976 and 1978. Distribution and movements within the study area are related to probable migrations routes and ice conditions.Key words: oldsquaw, king eider, common eider, geese, aerial surveys, distribution, molt migration, eastern Arctic, Baffin Bay, Lancaster Soun

Wear your heart on your sleeve - darning sampler

The PLATE Exhibition (Product Lifetimes And The Environment) explored critical themes related to how long products last in contemporary society. The topic of product longevity was examined in innovative ways through prototypes, objects, artefacts, posters, photographs and films produced by designers, social businesses, artists, researchers, lecturers and students. Featuring household products, furniture, lighting, fashion, jewellery and artworks, this collection of visual work embraced design for longevity, design for disassembly, repair and reuse, emotionally durable design, repurposing and upcycling, and the need to challenge planned obsolescence and the throwaway society. The PLATE Exhibition ran alongside the PLATE Conference at Nottingham Trent University (17 – 19 June), the first international conference to address product lifetimes in the context of sustainability. Curated by Rebecca Gamble, exhibitors included Frank Abbott; Christopher Barr; Paula Barton; Roger Bateman; Kay van Bellen; Sarah Bushell; Anja Claire Crabb; Alan Crisp; Laura Daniels; Katryn Furmston; Callum Field; Calum Gardner; Mark Golab; Jonathan Hamilton; Jan and David Hamilton; Sara Li-Chou Han; Maria Hanson; Bridget Harvey; Julian Hughes; Julia Keyte; Riddhi Lodhia; Angharad Mclaren; Shirley McLauchlan; Tracey McMaster; Tom Moulds; John Newling; Paul Nieuwenhuis; Eleanor Richards; Beata Rozycka; Daniel Scott; Tao Shen; Annalisa Simonella; Andrea Soler; Sarah Turner; Frieda Vanderpump; Nick Williams; Louise Winter; Janet Wootton and Gordon Young

NH3 in IRC plus 10216

Ammonia was detected in the circumstellar envelope of IRC +10216 by means of three infrared absorption lines in the nu sup 2 band around 950/cm. The lines are fully resolved at a resolution of 0.22 km/sec and indicate that most of the circumstellar gas is accelerated to expansion velocities around 14 km/sec within a few stellar radii. The NH3 profiles indicate a rotational temperature between 400 and 700 K, and H2 density between 10 to the 8th power/cu cm and 10 to the 10th power/cu cm, and NH3 column density of 10 to the 17th power/sq cm. The H2 density indicates that the mass of the circumstellar envelope within a 1 arcsec radius is approximately 0.1 solar masses

Clothing longevity perspectives: exploring consumer expectations, consumption and use

The production, distribution, use and end-of-life phases of the clothing lifecycle all have significant environmental impacts, but complete lifecycle assessment has identified that extending the active life of garments through design, use and re-use is the single most effective intervention in reducing the overall impact of the clothing industry (WRAP, 2011). In response, Government funded clothing longevity research seeks to develop and test industry-led design strategies to influence and enable consumers to keep garments in active use for longer (Cooper et al., 2014). While recent UK research has indicated significant potential to influence more sustainable consumer behaviour (Langley et al., 2013; YouGov, 2012), up-to-date qualitative research is required to discover how consumer attitudes, expectations and behaviours in relation to clothing lifetimes affects garment care and clothing use. This will help to inform industry-led strategies by understanding where effective changes can be made that will potentially have most impact. This paper presents preliminary findings from a Defra funded action based research project, ‘Strategies to improve design and testing for clothing longevity’. Qualitative research methods are used to explore consumer attitudes, expectations and behaviours at purchase, use and disposal stages of garment lifetimes, and gather data on practices of garment wash, wear, care and maintenance in everyday life. The research findings are discussed in relation to industry-led strategies aimed at extending the life of clothes