Zero Waste na indústria do vestuário: limitações e alternativas

Zero Waste approach applied to garment manufacturing promises the elimination of textile waste in the production process, with actions towards sustainability. In this perspective, this article identifies critical aspects and limitations of the design and the pattern making process using Zero Waste approach, aiming its application in the garment industry, with large-scale production. The study initiates with zero waste bibliography research and theoretical and experimental analysis of the proposals of the fashion designers who use Zero Waste approach to garment design and pattern making. As results, the article presents critical aspects and limitations of the approach, and discuss viable alternatives for its implementation in the large-scale garment manufacturing process.Zero Waste approach applied to garment manufacturing promises the elimination of textile waste in the production process, with actions towards sustainability. In this perspective, this article identifies critical aspects and limitations of the design and the pattern making process using Zero Waste approach, aiming its application in the garment industry, with large-scale production. The study initiates with zero waste bibliography research and theoretical and experimental analysis of the proposals of the fashion designers who use Zero Waste approach to garment design and pattern making. As results, the article presents critical aspects and limitations of the approach, and discuss viable alternatives for its implementation in the large-scale garment manufacturing process.Zero Waste approach applied to garment manufacturing promises the elimination of textile waste in the production process, with actions towards sustainability. In this perspective, this article identifies critical aspects and limitations of the design and the pattern making process using Zero Waste approach, aiming its application in the garment industry, with large-scale production. The study initiates with zero waste bibliography research and theoretical and experimental analysis of the proposals of the fashion designers who use Zero Waste approach to garment design and pattern making. As results, the article presents critical aspects and limitations of the approach, and discuss viable alternatives for its implementation in the large-scale garment manufacturing process.A abordagem Zero Waste (ou zero resíduo), aplicada à produção do vestuário, promete a eliminação dos descartes têxteis durante o processo produtivo, promovendo ações em direção à sustentabilidade. Dentro dessa perspectiva, o presente artigo busca identificar aspectos críticos e limitações do processo de criação e modelagem usando a abordagem Zero Waste, para sua aplicação na indústria do vestuário, na produção em larga escala. Para tanto, a pesquisa partiu de bibliografia relacionada ao tema e do estudo teórico e experimental das propostas dos principais designers do vestuário que utilizam as técnicas de criação e modelagem com a abordagem Zero Waste e, como resultado, o artigo apresenta uma discussão sobre os aspectos limitantes e alternativas viáveis para sua implementação no processo produtivo de confecção de vestuário em larga escala

O sentido e a percepção discursiva da fotografia no contexto audiovisual contemporâneo

O artigo sintetiza uma abordagem conceitual, que busca identificar como ocorre a construção de sentido na percepção das fotografias e sua relação com o audiovisual - cinema. Para uma amplitude representativa, recorremos a dois referenciais teóricos: a semiologia, que tem como principais expoentes Roland Barthes e Jean-Marie Floch; e as tentativas de conceituação de sistemas de pensamento de Michel Foucault aplicado na obra cinematográfica de Michelangelo Antonioni - Blow up (intitulado como: Depois daquele beijo), que se não chega a constituir uma teoria, ao menos têm em comum uma influência personificada dos estudos semióticos. Diante da insuficiência destas abordagens, recorremos á complementos teóricos em áreas como a estética, artística e psicologia da percepção, criando uma identificação a partir de possibilidades de uma expressão discursiva inerente às fotografias, sem dependência a textos e outras estratégias explicitamente enunciativas

Strategy of textile design: Use of design methodology tools in the creative process

This paper is based on the study of the application of the tools of design methodology in technological textile products also called smart fabrics. The application of the design methodology in the creative process took place in a textile factory by checking the contributions to the creativity, innovation, and quality. The purpose of studying the design practices in the use of resources and methods of the textile contributes to the development of the product and also meets the needs of customers. In this context, modifications were necessary to the development tools in the creative process that may cause the best use, reduction and cost containment improving the overall quality and meeting customers’ needs. There is much talk about making products, refining and improving, but there is hardly any detailed application on how to carry it out, what parameters are used to such an achievement and what solutions are applied to the design process. The application in creative processes and product design follows parameters that are often provided by customers. The concepts that are linked to these product development processes, and the understanding of their purpose helps reveal the customers’ needs.Keywords: design methodology, creative process, textile design

Wearbility Analysis of Knited Fabrics Produced with Colored Organic Cotton, Bamboo Rayon, Corn, Recycled Pet/Cotton and Recycled Pet/Polyester

Abstract This work presents a comparative study of the characteristics of knit fabrics, produced from: colored organic cotton, bamboo rayon, corn, recycled PET/cotton and recycled PET/polyester, used (JIS L 1018 -02), moisture absorption (JIS 1907 -02) and dimensional alteration (NBR 10320 -88).The experimental results show that, for all the analyzed characteristics, the raw materials selected to the achievement of this work are adequate to the clothing manufacturing

Strategy of textile design: Use of design methodology tools in the creative process

This paper is based on the study of the application of the tools of design methodology in technological textile products also called smart fabrics. The application of the design methodology in the creative process took place in a textile factory by checking the contributions to the creativity, innovation, and quality. The purpose of studying the design practices in the use of resources and methods of the textile contributes to the development of the product and also meets the needs of customers. In this context, modifications were necessary to the development tools in the creative process that may cause the best use, reduction and cost containment improving the overall quality and meeting customers’ needs. There is much talk about making products, refining and improving, but there is hardly any detailed application on how to carry it out, what parameters are used to such an achievement and what solutions are applied to the design process. The application in creative processes and product design follows parameters that are often provided by customers. The concepts that are linked to these product development processes, and the understanding of their purpose helps reveal the customers’ needs.Keywords: design methodology, creative process, textile design

Untitled in english

O forjamento é um dos processos de fabricação mais utilizados na moderna indústria mecânica sendo responsável por parcela significativa da produção industrial, principalmente no ramo automobilístico. O interesse crescente pela automação das atividades de engenharia no projeto, análise e planejamento do processo de fabricação, motivaram o desenvolvimento de um programa de computador para auxílio ao projeto de matrizes de forjamento, através do projeto automático do forjado e cálculo da máxima força de forjamento. Foram ainda realizados estudos de casos, incluindo a obtenção de dados experimentais de calibração e verificação como fonte preliminar de avaliação e ensaio do programa desenvolvido.Forging is a manufacturing of widespread usage in metalworking. It is utilized in the production of a importante proportion of the mechanical componentes in the automotive parts industry. The increased interest in automating the activities of design, of process planning and analysis motivated the developement of a microcomputer program as a helping tool for the die design process. The program uses a graphical interface for input data preparation and output data presentation and it allows the automatic generation of workpiece features and the calculation of maximum forging force. Case studies and experimental measurements for calibration and verification provide means of preliminar program testing and evaluation

Chicken feather : study of physical properties of textile fibers for commercial use

More than 4 billion tons of chicken feathers are wasted yearly worldwide. As scientific and technological research is gathering each time more awareness about environmental problems, developping a sustainable solution for this situation becomes crucial. In order to find a commercial application of these otherwise wasted feathers, chicken feather has been studied by means of physical characterization. Mechanical tests such as elongation, elasticity and resistance (made by Instrom dynamometer), determination of the content of moisture regain and fiber density, determination of medium title \ud fibers and determination of the rate of retraction have been performed. The main finding from this present research was the identification of the potential for the production of textile yarn, non-woven and composite reinforcements, based on their \ud mechanical properties

The work of Jean-Baptiste Debret as a historical source for the studies of the costumes used in Brazil in the early nineteenth century

The article presents a view of fashion in Brazil in the first decades of the nineteenth century in the light of the work of the French painter Jean-Baptiste Debret. His paintings constitute an iconographic corpus with lithographs made from his watercolors and canvas that would compose the collections of “Picturesque and historic voyage to Brazil”. The costumes portrayed by Debret are analyzed in contrast to the reports of the fashion historians, concluding that the fashion in Brasil in the Johannine Era and the D. Pedro Era followed the European trends of the time, the Empire style and the Romantic style.O artigo apresenta uma visão da moda usada no Brasil no início do século XIX à luz da obra do pintor francês Jean-Baptiste Debret. Sua obra constitui um corpus iconográfico com litografias feitas a partir de suas aquarelas e pranchas que comporiam os fascículos de Viagem pitoresca e histórica ao Brasil. Os trajes retratados por Debret foram analisados sob o olhar de historiadores da moda, concluindo-se que a moda usada no Brasil no período joanino e no Brasil de Pedro I seguiu as tendências europeias da época, o estilo Império e o estilo Romântico

The Post-consumption Problem of Green Coconut in Brazil: Alternatives and Sustainability

This literature review explores the problem of post-consumption of green coconut in Brazil. It starts by offering an analysis of the general aspects of the coconut industry and its derivatives. It also highlights the origins of coconut by-products, as well as the impacts of the industry in rural and urban management. The properties and potential uses of coconut by-products are also evaluated. The review presents diverse theoretical approaches regarding the concept of sustainable development as applied to product design. Results reveal a wide range of potential applications of coconut by-products in the field of engineering, although there is still an evident lack of research into the management and logistics of the coconut production chain. We argue that the concept of sustainability must be interpreted broadly, but also objectively, in any future research in order to facilitate the sustainable consumption and post-consumption of the green coconut