International Conference on Intelligent Textiles & Mass Customisation – ITMC 2019

The 7th edition of the International Conference on Intelligent Textiles and Mass Customization - ITMC 2019 was held in the Marrakech, Morocco, from 13th to 15th November 2019. The Conference was organized by the Higher School of Textile and Clothing Industries (ESITH), in partnership with Ghent University in Belgium, the National School of Arts and Textile Industries (ENSAIT) in France, Shinshu University in Japan and CTT Group of Canada. The ITMC 2019 conference interdisciplinary approach is the key to maximizing the potential and development of textile materials for various applications. The purpose of the conference is to explore new ideas, effective solutions and collaborative partnerships for business growth by catalyzing the creation of a beneficial synergy between designers, manufacturers, suppliers and end-users from all sectors and making full use of this potential. The themes of the ITMC conference focus on smart textiles and mass personalization: advanced manufacturing, comfort, digital tools, design methodologies, connected composites, mass customization, e-textile and e-commerce, smart and functional textiles, education and training, funding opportunities, supply chain management and logistics, sustainable production and recycling

Study on the Inuence of Calendaring Process on Thermal Resistance of Polypropylene Nonwoven Fabric Structure

Thepurposeofthispaperistoinvestigatetheinuenceofcalenderingprocessonpolypropylenenonwoven structureandthermalresistance. Thestudywasfocusedontheinuenceofmassperunitarea, thickness, density, porosity, characteristic opening size and additional thermal bonding by calendering. Thermal resistance of polypropylene nonwoven fabric manufactured using the mechanical carding process and bonding using the needling process, where a part of the samples was additionally bonded by the thermal calendering process, were investigated. The nonwoven fabrics were tested for thermal resistance on the guarded hot plate. Statistical analyses were performed to examine the signicance between the observed parameters. Correlation matrix analyses were used to reveal relationship behaviour among the variables. A change in structure of the calendered samples caused a considerably lower thermal resistance i.e. better thermal conductivity. A change of the average value of thermal resistance after calendering related to non-calendered fabric mass between 150 and 500 g/m2 ranged from 53.9 to 41.0%. With increasing nonwoven fabric mass, the dierence between thermal resistances of needled and needled as well as additionally bonded by calendering the nonwoven fabric was reduced

Inuence of Pressure on Water Permeability and Characteristic Opening Size of Nonwoven Geotextiles

Nonwoven geotextiles manufactured by mechanical carding process and bonding by needling process are investigated in this paper. Part of the samples was additionally bonded by thermal calendaring process. Sampling was conducted according to the standard for geotextile with certain modications. The samples were tested for water permeability perpendicular to the plane of samples using loads of 2, 20 and 200 kPa. Characteristic opening size of geotextiles was tested using sieving method. Research shows that dierent applied pressures signicantly change structure and properties i.e. thickness and water permeability normal to the plain under load of geotextile

Impact of yarn count, noil percentage and yarn tension on structure of jersey fabric

Klasičnim postupkom predenja na prstenastoj predilici ispredene su pređe iz egipatskog pamuka Giza 75 FG finoća 14,3, 16,7, 20,0 i 25,0 tex. Svaka od navedenih pređa ispredena je sa većim koeficijentom uvijanja i različitim postotkom isčeska 14, 16, 18 i 20 %. Na kružnopletaćem jednoigleničnom stroju malog promjera iz navedenih pređa izrađene su dvije grupe glatko kulirnih desno-lijevih pletiva s različitom napetosti pređe pri njenom ulasku u pletaći sistem. Prva je grupa uzoraka izrađena s uobičajenom napetosti pređe koja se koristi kod izrade ovakvih pletiva (0,15 cN/tex), dok je druga grupa uzoraka izrađena s većom napetosti (0,40 cN/tex). Dobivena mjerenja statistički su obrađena i testirana.Using the combed cotton spinning route, a number of yarns from Egyptian cotton Giza 75 FG with counts of 14.3, 16.7, 20.0 and 25.0 tex were spun. Each of the yarns were spun with a higher twist factor and different noil percentage of 14, 16, 18 and 20%. The yarns are being used to knit two groups of plain single jersey fabrics on a small diameter single bed circular knitting machine with two different yarn tensions at the knitting zone. The first group of samples was knitted with a usual yarn tension used in making knitted fabrics underwear (0.15 cN/tex), while the other group of sample was knitted with a higher tension (0.40 cN/tex). The measurements are statistically analyzed and tested

Agro-textiles

Tekstilni proizvodi se u poljoprivredi koriste tisućama godina radi zaštite biljaka i životinja, odnosno radi zaštite od ekstremnih klimatskih uvjeta. Modernizacijom i visokim tehnološkim postignućima posljednjih nekoliko desetljeća, područje upotreba agrotekstila dobiva sve više na važnosti. Glavni razlozi razvoja i porasta proizvodnje, a time i korištenja agrotekstila su povećanje globalne populacije koja potražuje veću količinu i bolju kvalitetu hrane često ugroženu klimatskim uvjetima, štetnicima i bolestima. Agrotekstili su fleksibilni i prikladni za određenu primjenu i zemljopisnu lokaciju, tako da na nama ostaje projektiranje proizvoda radi poboljšnja agronomskih, ekoloških i ekonomskih aspekata s obzirom na njihovu namjenu. Zato je u radu dan poseban naglasak na agrotekstil koji se koristi u poljoprivredi.Textile products have been used in agriculture for thousands of years to protect plants and animals, or to protect them from extreme climatic conditions. Due to the modernization and high technological achievements in recent decades, the use of agro-textiles has become increasingly important. One of the main reasons for the development and increase in production, and thus the use of agro-textiles, is the increase in the global population, which requires greater food quantity and better food quality, often endangered by climatic conditions, pests and diseases. Agro-textiles are flexible and suitable for particular use and geographic location. It is up to us to design products to improve agronomic, ecological and economic aspects with respect to their use. The perspectives of agro-textiles, and especially of non-woven agro-textiles used in agriculture, are most favorable just because of increasing the global population. For this reason special emphasis is put on agro-textiles used in agriculture

Unevenness of air-jet spun yarn comparison with ring and rotor spun yarn made from micro modal fibers

Uspoređeni su parametri nejednolikosti (ukupna nejednolikost, nejednolikosti na različitim mjernim dužinama 1, 3 i 10 m dužine mjerenja dlakavosti aerodinamičke predene pređe iz mikro modalnih vlakana ispredene na aerodinamičkoj predilici J20 s parametrima nejednolikosti rotorske i konvencionalne prstenaste predene pređe iz istih vlakana. Kako bi se smanjio broj ulaznih utjecajnih parametara na parametre nejednolikosti, uspoređivanje je izvršeno na pređama jednakih namjena (pletenje) te jednakih finoća od 20 tex (Nm 50). Pod pretpostavkom da distibucija mase u pređama slijedi normalnu (Gausovu) krivulju proveden je t-test za nejednolikost pređa. Pokazalo se da je ukupna nejednolikost aerodinamičke pređe manja od nejednolikosti rotorske, a veća od nejednolikosti konvencionalne prstenaste pređe, dok je na većim mjernim duljinama (1 m, 3 m i 10 m) manja od obiju pređa, rotorske i prstenaste pređe. Broj tankih mjesta aerodinamičke pređe na osjetljivosti mjerenja -30 % je veći od broja ovih grašaka na prstenastoj pređi za 9,2 puta, dok u odnosu na rotorsku pređu manji je za 4,2 %. Aerodinamička pređa na razini osjetljivosti +50 % ima najmanji broj debelih mjesta. U pogledu dlakavosti, aerodinamička pređa je razmjerno bolje kvalitete.All unevenness parameters (overall unevenness, unevenness on different cut lengths of 1 m, 3 m and 10 m and hairiness) of the air-jet yarn produced from micro modal fibers spun on the J20 air jet machine using the unevenness parameters of the rotor spun and conventional ring spun yarn produced form the same fibers were compared. In order to reduce the number of input influencing parameters on the unevenness properties, the comparison was performed on yarns for the same end-use (knitting) and with an equal count of 20 tex (Nm 50). Assuming that the mass distribution in the yarns follows a normal (Gauss) curve a t-test of yarn unevenness was carried out. It was shown that the overall unevenness of the air-jet-spun yarn is smaller than that of the rotor spun yarn and is greater than the unevenness of the conventional ring spun yarn, while over larger cut lengths (1 m, 3 m and 10 m) it is smaller than in both yarns, rotor and ring spun yarns. The number of thin places in air-jet-spun yarns at a sensitivity level -30% is higher than the number of these faults in the ring spun yarn by 9.2 times and compared with the rotor spun yarn lower by 4.2%. The air-jet-spun yarn at a sensitivity level +50 % has the smallest number of thick places. In terms of hairiness, the air-jet-spun yarn has a relatively higher quality

Comparison of Double Jersey Knitted Fabrics Made of Regenerated Cellulose Conventional and Unconventional Yarns

The development of new spinning technologies has produced cheaper yarns and with it, research into the production and application of woven and knitted fabrics from unconventional yarns. The tensile properties of knitted fabrics made of regenerated cellulose fibres (viscose, Tencel™ and modal) of the same count (20 tex) using ring, rotor and air-jet spun yarn were studied. The force/elongation diagram was analysed in order to detect elastic and plastic areas as well as the area of elastoplastic deformations responsible for the behaviour of knitted fabrics. The yarn raw material affects the elastic area of knitted fabrics made from different yarn structures in the course direction whereby the highest elastic area was obtained in the case of ring spun yarns followed by air-jet and finally rotor spun yarns. Regardless of the raw material, the elastoplastic area of the knitted fabric in the wale direction is the lowest for ring spun yarns. There is no visible trend of knitted fabric elastoplastic areas in the wale direction regarding the yarn type and raw material

Study on Physical-mechanical Parameters of Ring-, Rotor- and Air-jet-spun Modal and Micro Modal Yarns

The main physical-mechanical parameters of modal yarns (unevenness, faults, hairiness and spectrograms) were compared with the parameters of micro modal yarns of the same fineness and end-use. The difference in tenacity and elongation at break of different types of modal and micro modal-spun yarns is determined by yarn structure. The highest tenacity was achieved in the oriented structure of ring-spun yarn, followed by air-jet-spun and rotor-spun yarn, in the case of both modal and micro modal fibres. All types of modal yarns differ in overall unevenness and in terms of micro modal fibres. The values of the overall unevenness of ring-, rotor- and air-jet-spun modal yarns are greater than or equal to the same values of micro modal yarns. The spinning technique, and thus the yarn structure, determine the level of overall yarn evenness. The number of faults at different levels of sensitivity measurement to detect the highest number of thin and thick places and neps (–30%, +35% and +140%) is greater in rotor- and air-jet-spun yarn than in ring-spun yarn for both levels of fibre fineness. Periodic faults of short wavelengths with significant amplitude increase the number of yarn faults to a certain extent. Rotor-spun micro modal yarn shows the highest deviation from ideal unevenness, while ring-spun modal yarn shows the lowest deviation. Yarn hairiness depends on the spinning technique. Finer fibres cause lower hairiness in all yarn types