Footwear through history: from prehistory to the early 20th century

Obuća kroz povijest: od prapovijesti do početka 20. stoljeća sažeti je kronološki pregled razvoja obuće od prvih povijesnih primjera do obuće početkom 20. stoljeća u skladu s uzročno-posljedičnim utjecajem stilskih, tehnoloških i društvenih čimbenika. Vizualnim primjerima obuće popraćen je razvoj i mijene obuće od prvih tzv. primitivnih omota do suvremene obuće početkom 20. stoljeća. Navedeni su karakteristični primjeri obuće svih povijesnih razdoblja; forma, kroj, materijali, tehnike izvedbe, terminologija. Razvitak obuće prati se od izrade obuće za vlastite potrebe do pojave obrtnika i postolarskih cehova, manufakture i tvorničke, odnosno industrijske proizvodnje. Obuća se prikazuje i kao neizostavni segment odjevne kompozicije određenog povijesnog razdoblja.Footwear through history: from prehistory to the Beginning of the 20th Century is a concise chronological overview of the development of footwear from the earliest historical examples to the shoes of the early 20th century. Vivid examples of footwear accompany the development and transformation of footwear from the first so-called primitive wrappers to modern footwear at the beginning of the 20th century. Characteristic examples of footwear from all historical periods are presented: Shape, cut, materials, design techniques, terminology. The development of footwear is traced from the manufacture of shoes for personal use, through the emergence of craftsmen and shoemakers' guilds, to manufactories and factories and industrial production. Footwear is also presented as an indispensable segment of the clothing composition of a particular historical period

AESTHETIC NARRATIVE OF MORMON CULTURE IN THE DESIGN OF THE AUTHOR'S FASHION COLLECTION

Diplomski rad temelji se na proučavanju načina odijevanja mormonske vjerske zajednice, a potaknut je putovanjem u Salt Lake City, Utah, Sjedinjene Američke Države, gdje se nalazi njezino sjedište. Rad analizira nastanak mormonske vjere, spomeničku i kulturnu baštinu zajednice, poput hrama, simbola košnice i orlovih vrata, te analizira svetu odjeću mormonskih svetaca. Također se bavi crkvenim raskolom i poligamijom, uključujući poligamsku antimodu i običaje. Nadalje, rad prikazuje motiv kršćanstva u suvremenoj modi i istražuje način na koji suvremeni dizajneri povezuju religijske motive s modom. Rezultat istraživanja mormonske zajednice doveo je do realizacije odjevne kolekcije od šest odjevnih kombinacija.The master's thesis is based on the study of the dress code of the Mormon religious community, and was inspired by a trip to Salt Lake City, Utah, United States of America, where its headquarters are located. The master's thesis analyzes the origins of the Mormon faith, the monumental and cultural heritage of the community, such as the temple, the symbol of the beehive and the eagle gate. The master's thesis also analyzes the sacred clothing of Mormon saints and it also deals with the church schism and polygamy, including polygamous antifashion and customs. Furthermore, the master's thesis presents the motive of Christianity in contemporary fashion and explores the way in which contemporary designers connect religious motives with fashion. The result of the research on the Mormon community led to the realization of a clothing collection of six clothing combination

INTERPRETATION OF HISTORICAL COSTUME OF KING ARTHUR ACCORDING TO THE BOOKS T. H. WHITE: „THE ONCE AND FUTURE KING“ AND MICHEL RIO: „MERLIN“

Svrha ovog rada jest detaljna analiza i likovna interpretacija odjeće likova dviju književnih verzija o kralju Arthuru („Merlin“ Michela Ria i „Kralj bivši, kralj budući“ T. H. Whitea) kontekstu povjesnog perioda, karakterizacije i simbolike. Detaljnom analizom odjeće ranog srednjeg vijeka i 14. stoljeća u Velikoj Britaniji te usporedbom dvaju različitih pristupa likovima u književnim verzijama legende o kralju Arthuru opisani su detaljni vizualni prikazi likovne interpretacije glavnih likova obje književne verzije. Ovim radom se dokazuje da vizualna interpretacija odjeće služi kao važan narativni alat koji produbljuje prikaz likova sažimajući njihovu osobnost i povjesni kontekst pri čemu Rio koristi ponašanja likova i situacije za njihov prikaz, dok White koristi eksplicitne narativne opise likova u svrhu komedije ili pretjerivanja. Također, radom se potvrđuje da kostim nije samo povijesna ilustracija, već ključno sredstvo prikaza psihološke dubine i identiteta likova.The purpose of this thesis is to provide a detailed analysis and visual interpretation of the clothing of characters in two literary versions of King Arthur ("Merlin" by Michel Rio and "The King Once, the King to Come" by T. H. White) in the context of historical period, characterization and symbolism. Through a detailed analysis of the clothing of the early Middle Ages and the 14th century in Great Britain and a comparison of two different approaches to characters in the literary versions of the legend of King Arthur, detailed visual representations of the visual interpretation of the main characters of both literary versions are described. This thesis argues that the visual interpretation of clothing serves as an important narrative tool that deepens the depiction of characters by summarizing their personality and historical context, with Rio using the behaviors of characters and situations to portray them, while White uses explicit narrative descriptions of characters for the purpose of comedy or exaggeration. The thesis also confirms that costume is not only a historical illustration, but a key means of depicting the psychological depth and identity of characters

DEVELOPMENT AND CHARACTERIZATION OF FOOTBALL CLOTHING MATERIALS TO OPTIMIZE COMFORT AND DURABILITY

Bavljenje sportom postaje jednim od imperativa suvremenog načina življenja. Takav trend postavlja nove zahtjeve prema funkcionalnosti, udobnosti i estetskoj privlačnosti sportske odjeće. Izbor sportske odjeće ovisi o vrsti aktivnosti i okruženju u kojem se trenira, a svaka sportska disciplina postavlja nove izazove za projektiranje inovativnih materijala. Istraživanje u sklopu doktorskog rada usmjereno je na razvoj i mehaničku funkcionalizaciju pletenih materijala namijenjenih izradi nogometnih sportskih dresova, kako bi isti bili što trajniji i osigurali optimalnu razinu udobnosti tijekom korištenja. U svrhu navedenog, provedeno je anketno istraživanje među nogometnim igračima s ciljem uvida u percepciju igrača vezanu uz udobnost i trajnost nogometnih dresova. Rezultati istraživanja poslužili su za izradu novog protokola starenja materijala za nogometnu odjeću. Za potrebe istraživanja odabrane su konvencionalne, funkcionalne i reciklirane pređe od kojih je dizajniran i izrađen set projektiranih pletiva. Uz projektirana pletiva, na tržištu materijala namijenjenih izradi sportskih nogometnih dresova, nabavljen je i set reprezentativnih pletiva proizvedenih od strane renomiranih proizvođača. Zatim je provedeno ispitivanje svojstava odabranih pređa (finoća, promjer, uvijenost, vlačna svojstva, dlakavost i otpornost na habanje) te projektiranih i reprezentativnih pletiva (strukturni parametri, vlačna svojstva, otpornost na probijanje kuglom, otpornost na habanje, sklonost površinskom stvaranju pilinga, sposobnost prijenosa vlage i propusnost vodene pare). Rezultati provedenog istraživanja dali su smjernice za izradu novog protokola starenja materijala najsličnijeg realnom starenju materijala tijekom korištenja. Pletiva su podvrgnuta različitim ciklusima starenja definiranim prema novo-razvijenom protokolu starenja. Nakon provedenog procesa starenja, provedeno je ispitivanje svojstava pletiva s ciljem detekcije utjecaja starenja na svojstva udobnosti i trajnosti te razvoj smjernica za projektiranje visoko-funkcionalnih materijala.One of the imperatives of the modern way of life became playing sports. Such a trend places new demands on sportswear's functionality, comfort and aesthetic appeal. The choice of sports clothing depends on the type of activity and the environment in which it is trained, and each sports discipline poses new challenges for the design of new innovative materials. The doctoral thesis research focused on the development and mechanical functionalisation of knitted materials, intended for producing football sports jerseys, to provide optimal comfort and durability during use. For the above, a survey was conducted among football players to gain insight into player preferences related to the comfort and durability of football jerseys. The research results were used to create a new material aging protocol. For the research, a set of knitted fabrics was designed and produced, from conventional, functional and recycled yarns. In addition, to the set of designed knitted fabrics, on the market of materials intended for producing sports football jerseys, a set of representative knitted fabrics was also purchased from renowned manufacturers. The properties of selected yarns (count, diameter, number of twists, tensile properties, hairiness and resistance to abrasion), as well as the properties of designed and representative fabrics (structural properties, tensile properties, bursting resistance, abrasion resistance, fabric propensity to surface pilling, moisture management and water vapour permeability), were tested. The guidelines for creating a new aging protocol, the most similar to real material aging, were obtained from the research results. Knitted fabrics were subjected to various aging cycles defined in the newly developed aging protocol. After the aging process, the properties of knitted fabrics were tested to detect the effect of aging on comfort and durability and to establish guidelines for designing highly functional materials

BIO-INNOVATED POLYESTER MATERIAL AIMED FOR USE IN A HOSPITAL ENVIRONMENT

Poliester čini gotovo 80 % ukupne proizvodnje sintetskih vlakana, od kojih je najzastupljeniji poli(etilen-tereftalat), PET. U medicini i zdravstvu se primjenjuju i vlakna i materijali iz PET-a u područjima gdje su mehanička svojstva, bioinertnost i trajnost od ključne važnosti. U ovom radu istraživanje je obuhvatilo razvoj bio-inoviranih poliesterskih materijala za ciljanu primjenu u bolničkom okružju kroz 3 faze, a odabrane metode primijenjene su s ciljem analize postavljenih parametara učinkovitosti. Prva faza je aktivacija površine poliesterske tkanine (standardna i PET) hidrolizom s naglaskom na održivost procesa. U tu svrhu istražena je alkalna hidroliza pri sniženoj temperaturi uz dodatak akceleratora te hidroliza ekološki prihvatljivim enzimima. Rezultati istraživanja potvrdili su postavljenu hipotezu da se proces hidrolize poliesterskih vlakana u tkanini može provesti upotrebom ekološki povoljnijih sredstava i/ili na energetski i ekonomski povoljniji način alkalnom hidrolizom uz dodatak heksadeciltrimetilamonijeva klorida (2 g/l HDTMAC, 80 °C, 10 min) te enzimskom hidrolizom amanolipazama Amano Lipase A iz Aspergillus niger (ALA) i Amano Lipase iz Pseudomonas fluorescens (ALAK) - vrijednost pH 9, koncentracija enzima 0,2 g/l, 60 °C, 60 min. Hidrolizom dolazi do povećanja hidrofilnosti što je potvrđeno analizom sorpcijskih svojstava. Za razliku od alkalne hidrolize, enzimskom hidrolizom ostaju zadržana primarna svojstva tkanine. Druga faza obuhvaća pripremu kitozana te implementaciju na površinu aktivirane tkanine. S obzirom na prikazane rezultate, kao i na postojanost obrade nakon prvog ciklusa pranja u neionskom tenzidu, funkcionalizacija kitozanom postupkom impregnacija-sušenje-kondenzacija homogeniziranom otopinom kitozana u octenoj kiselini pokazala se povoljnijom u odnosu na termosol postupak dispergiranim submikronskim česticama kitozana. Za pretpostaviti je da su kod funkcionalizacije termosol postupkom prisutne samo vodikove veze, dok su kod postupka impregnacija-sušenje-kondenzacija prisutne i ionske veze jer je kitozan protoniran. Rezultati ciljanih istraživanja potvrdili su postavljenu hipotezu da se poliesterska tkanina može funkcionalizirati kitozanom, a postupak impregnacija-sušenje-kondenzacija homogeniziranom otopinom kitozana u octenoj kiselini je postojana i nakon višestrukih ciklusa pranja. To je potvrđeno SEM i elektrokinetičkom analizom, bojadisanjem, poboljšanjem sorpcijskih svojstava i analizom antimikrobne učinkovitosti. U trećoj fazi ispitana je antimikrobna učinkovitost funkcionaliziranih tkanina nakon 10 ciklusa prilagođenog industrijskog pranja kako bi se utvrdila postojanost obrade. Tkanina zadržava dobivena svojstva do 3 ciklusa pranja, a antimikrobnu učinkovitost i nakon 10 pranja te se kao takva može primijeniti u bolničkom okružju kao zamjena za jednokratnu zaštitnu odjeću. Enzimski hidrolizirana PET tkanina funkcionalizirana kitozanom ima veću učinkovitost u odnosu na alkalno hidroliziranu PET tkaninu funkcionaliziranu kitozanom budući da pokazuje učinkovitost i na mikrogljivice, a funkcionalizacija je postojana i nakon višestrukih ciklusa pranja. Enzimski hidrolizirana PET tkanina enzimom ALAK funkcionalizirana kitozanom pokazuje antimikrobni učinak na sva tri mikroorganizma čak i nakon 10 ciklusa pranja. Valja istaknuti da osim antimikrobnoj učinkovitosti enzimska hidroliza i funkcionalizacija kitozanom doprinose udobnosti tkanine jer se povećavaju hidrofilnost, upravljanje kapljevitom vlagom, osjet glatkoće i osjet mekoće. S obzirom na sve dobivene rezultate i analizu parametara učinkovitosti za ciljanu primjenu u bolničkom okružju, najprihvatljivijim se pokazao bio-inovirani postupak aktivacije površine PET tkanina enzimskom hidrolizom amanolipazom iz Pseudomonas fluorescens (ALAK) funkcionaliziran homogeniziranim kitozanom postupkom impregnacija-sušenje-kondenzacija.Polyester accounts for almost 80 % of the total production of synthetic fibers, of which poly(ethylene terephthalate), PET, is the most common. In medicine and healthcare, PET fibers and materials are also used in areas where mechanical properties, bioinertness and durability are crucial. In this doctoral thesis, the development of bio-innovated polyester materials aimed for use in a hospital environment was investigated in three phases. The first phase is the activation of the surface of polyester fabrics (standard and PET) by sustainable hydrolysis process. For this purpose, alkaline hydrolysis at reduced temperature with the addition of an accelerator and hydrolysis with environmentally friendly enzymes were performed. The effect of temperature on the alkaline hydrolysis of PET was analysed with and without the addition of an accelerator (cationic surfactant hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, HDTMAC) in terms of the change in mass and in breaking force and the morphology of the fibers. The kinetics of PET degradation and the activation energy were determined according to the theoretical model. It was found that it is possible to carry out PET hydrolysis in a more environmentally friendly way compared to conventional alkaline hydrolysis (100 °C, 60 min). Alkaline hydrolysis with the addition of 2 g/l HDTMAC at 80 °C for 10 min results in the same changes. Although this process is still not completely environmentally friendly due to the use of sodium hydroxide, it is economically and energetically more acceptable and therefore more sustainable compared to the conventional process. Enzymatic hydrolysis, which is more environmentally friendly than alkaline hydrolysis, was performed using different hydrolases, esterase and lipase. Amano Lipases proved to be efficient and it is possible to carry out PET hydrolysis in more environmentally, economically and energetically favourable process. The effectiveness of the Amano Lipase A from Aspergillus niger (ALA) in an alkaline medium has been confirmed. An enzyme concentration of 0.1 g/l is sufficient, and hydrolysis can also be carried out at a reduced temperature of 60 °C, although hydrolysis at 100 °C is more effective. The Amano Lipase from Pseudomonas fluorescens (ALAK) is effective in both acidic and alkaline media. In an acidic medium, it achieves the best results at a concentration of 0.2 g/l and a temperature of 100 °C. In an alkaline medium, satisfactory results can be achieved with a lower concentration of 0.1 g/l at a lower temperature and time. The analysis of the results in terms of sustainability of the hydrolysis process showed that the optimal process parameters for hydrolysis using the enzyme ALA are: pH value 9, enzyme concentration 0.1 g/l, 60 °C, 60 min; and for the enzyme ALAK: pH value 9, enzyme concentration 0.2 g/l, 60 °C, 60 min. In view of the easier comparability of all the results obtained and the small differences in the preliminary results, the enzyme concentration of 0.2 g/l was also used for the ALA enzyme, which was very effective. From this it can be concluded that the hydrolysis of the surface of commercially available polyester fabrics can be carried out in an ecologically, energetically and economically process, when the process parameters are carefully selected. Hydrolysis leads to an increase in hydrophilicity, which was confirmed by analysing the sorption properties. In contrast to alkaline hydrolysis, enzymatic hydrolysis preserves the primary properties of the fabric. This confirms hypothesis 1. HYPOTHESIS 1: The process of hydrolysis of polyester fibers in the fabric can be carried out by more environmentally friendly process and/or in a more energetically and economically favourable process. The second phase includes the preparation of chitosan and its implementation on the activated surface of the fabric. The implementation of chitosan was carried out by the thermosol process from dispersion of submicron particles of chitosan and by the pad-dry-cure process of chitosan homogenized in acetic acid solution. Considering the results presented and the durability of the functionalization treatment after the first washing cycle in a non-ionic surfactant, functionalization with chitosan using the pad-dry-cure method of chitosan homogenized in acetic acid solution proved to be more favourable than the thermosol process with dispersion of submicron chitosan particles. It is to assume that in thermosol process only H-bonds are present, while in pad-dry-cure process ionic bond occurs between protonated chitosan and PET fiber. The pad-dry-cure process of chitosan homogenized in acetic acid solution is durable after one washing cycle. This confirms hypothesis 2. HYPOTHESIS 2: Polyester fabric can be functionalized with chitosan. In the third phase, the antimicrobial efficacy of the functionalized fabrics was tested after 10 cycles of adapted industrial washing process for determination of the treatment durability. The morphological characterization of the surface (SEM), electrokinetic analysis, dyeing, improvement of sorption properties and analysis of antimicrobial efficacy were performed. Literary sources state that chitosan has antimicrobial effectiveness. Given that chitosan is a natural biopolymer that has not been proven to have a negative impact on humans or the environment, it is considered a favourable antimicrobial agent. The results show that alkaline hydrolysis leads to the migration of an antimicrobial agent (quaternary ammonium compounds, QAC) from the surface of the material, which can have a negative effect on the natural bacterial flora of the skin. In contrast, enzymatic hydrolysed PET fabrics functionalized with chitosan have no inhibition zone, have a higher efficacy than alkaline hydrolysed samples as they also act on fungi and are stable even after several washing cycles. The enzymatically hydrolysed PET fabric with ALAK enzyme functionalized with chitosan shows an antimicrobial effect on all three microorganisms tested even after 10 washing cycles, thus fulfilling the basic requirements for a good antimicrobial agent for textile substrates and the requirements for an ideal antimicrobial treatment. It should be noted that enzymatic hydrolysis and functionalization with chitosan, in addition to antimicrobial efficacy, also contribute to the comfort of the fabric by increasing its hydrophilicity, moisture management and the feeling of smoothness and softness. The fabric retains its properties up to 3 washing cycles and its antimicrobial efficacy even after 10 cycles and can therefore be used in hospitals as a replacement for disposable protective clothing. Considering this purpose, hypothesis 3 can be considered confirmed. HYPOTHESIS 3: Polyester fabric functionalized with chitosan is resistant to the washing process. Taking into account all the results obtained and analysing the efficiency parameters aimed for use in the hospital environment, the bio-innovative process for activating the surface of PET fabrics by enzymatic hydrolysis with Amano Lipase from Pseudomonas fluorescens (ALAK) functionalized with homogenized chitosan by pad-dry-cure process proved to be the most acceptable

A COLLECTION OF TEXTILE DESIGNS REALIZED THROUGH PRINT TECHNIQUES INSPIRED BY FILM ART

Ovaj diplomski rad istražuje rad istaknutih kostimografa poput Jenny Beaven, Patricie Fields, Brende Cooper i Jacqueline Durran te njihov utjecaj na filmsku i televizijsku industriju. Analiziraju se inovativni pristupi dizajnu, spoj povijesnih i suvremenih elemenata te autentični uzorci odnosno dizajn tekstila u kostimografiji. Poseban naglasak stavljen je na ulogu kostimografije u oblikovanju osobnosti likova i narativa, kao i na utjecaj modne industrije i brendova poput Moschina, Chanela i Versacea. Rad istražuje povezanost kostimografije i dizajna tekstila, naglašavajući njihov doprinos vizualnom identitetu, te njihov utjecaj na realizaciju vlastite kolekcije dizajna tekstila u digitalnom tisku i kolekcije torbi.This thesis explores the work of renowned costume designers such as Jenny Beaven, Patricia Field, Brenda Cooper, and Jacqueline Durran, as well as their impact on the film and television industry. It analyses innovative design approaches, the fusion of historical and contemporary elements, and the role of textile design in costume creation. Special emphasis is placed on the role of costume design in shaping character identity and narrative, as well as the influence of the fashion industry and brands such as Moschino, Chanel, and Versace. The thesis examines the connection between costume and textile design, highlighting their contribution to visual identity and their influence on the development of an original textile design collection using digital printing, as well as a bag collection

THE DEVELOPMENT OF BASIC SILHOUETTES OF WOMEN'S CLOTHING ADAPTED TO THE FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLES OF SUSTAINABILITY IN FASHION

Održivi razvoj od velike je važnosti za proizvodne procese kako bi se očuvala ekologija i prirodni resursi zbog čega se razvio pristup u dizajnu odjeće koji poštuje aspekte održivog razvoja i koncepta bez otpada što je temeljna postavka ovog doktorskog rada. U Uvodu se ističe važnost zadovoljavanja pet osnovnih kriterija tijekom dizajnerskog procesa kao što je estetika odjevnog predmeta, pristalost, ekonomska isplativost, međukrojni gubitak i mogućnost proizvodnje. U poglavlju Pregled tematike objašnjava se pojam silueta odjeće, njihov razvoj kroz povijesna razdoblja do danas. Opisan je rad dizajnera kojima je silueta ženske odjeće ključni element u njihovim modnim kolekcijama, s naglaskom na siluete oblika „T“, „A“,“ X„ i „I“, koje se u doktorskom radu postavljaju u fokus temeljnih postavki istraživanja. Opisuju se tipovi i konstitucije ženskog tijela koji u području dizajna imaju ključnu ulogu prilikom odabira odjeće i formiranjem osobnog stila pojedinaca, krojne slike te je objašnjen pojam međukrojnog gubitka, opisan je kriterij pristalosti odjeće, pojam, metode i primjena koncepta bez otpada, naglašava se važnost komunikacije među potrošačima te se pojašnjava računalni program Clo3D koji svoju primjenu nalazi u području dizajna. Cilj ovog doktorskog rada je analizirati postojeće metode koncepta bez otpada i predložiti novu metodu u dizajnu za osnovne siluete ženske odjeće uz maksimalno iskorištenje tkanine, razviti održive smjernice za dizajn i novu metodu osnovnih silueta ženske odjeće te izraditi dizajnersku kolekciju temeljenu na osnovnim siluetama ženske odjeće prema dobivenim smjernicama nove metode. Sukladno ciljevima postavljene su i hipoteze istraživanja. Predstavljen je i opisan plan, varijable i metode istraživanja. Kao rezultat istraživanja razvijena je nova TAXI metoda koncepta bez otpada koja se temelji na dizajnu osnovnih silueta ženske odjeće s maksimalno mogućim iskorištenjem tkanine u svrhu održivosti. Ovim sveobuhvatnim konceptom po načelu održivosti temeljni krojevi se prilagođavaju maksimalnom mogućem iskorištenju tkanine, estetskim kriterijima i pristalosti s ciljem unaprjeđenja proizvodnih procesa prema načelima kružnog gospodarstva.Sustainable development is of great importance for production processes in order to preserve ecology and natural resources, which is why an approach has been developed in clothing design that respects aspects of sustainable development and the zero-waste concept, which is the basic premise of this doctoral thesis. The Introduction highlights the importance of meeting five basic criteria during the design process, such as garment aesthetics, fit, economic profitability, cut loss and manufacturability. The topic overview chapter explains the concept of clothing silhouettes and their development through historical periods until today. The work of designers for whom the silhouette of women's clothing is a key element in their fashion collections is described, with an emphasis on the silhouettes of the shapes "T", "A", "X" and "I", which are placed in the focus of the basic settings of the research in the doctoral thesis. The types and constitutions of the female body are described, which in the field of design play a key role when choosing clothes and forming the personal style of individuals, garment cut images, and the concept of intercut loss is explained. The criterion of clothing fit, the concept, methods and application of the no-waste concept are described, the importance of communication between consumers and the computer program Clo3D is emphasized, which finds its application in the field of design. The aim of this doctoral thesis is to analyze the existing methods of the zero-waste concept, to propose a new design method for basic silhouettes of women's clothing with maximum use of fabric, to develop sustainable design guidelines and a new method of basic silhouettes of women's clothing, and to create a design collection based on basic silhouettes of women's clothing according to obtained guidelines of the new method, and research hypotheses were set in accordance with the goals. The research plan, variables and methods are presented and described. As a result of the research, a new TAXI method of the zero-waste concept was developed, which is based on the design of basic silhouettes of women's clothing with the maximum possible use of fabric for the purpose of sustainability. With this comprehensive concept based on the principle of sustainability, basic cuts are adapted to the maximum possible use of fabric, aesthetic criteria and fit with the aim of improving production processes according to the principles of the circular economy

FLORALNI MOTIVI- SPOJ TRADICIJE I SUVREMENIH INTERPRETACIJA U IZRADI UNIKATNIH TEKSTILA

U diplomskom radu, u teorijskom dijelu, istražit će se primjena floralnog motiva na tekstilu kroz povijesna razdoblja. Predstavit će se najvažniji autori kojima je floralni motiv bio insprativan za modno-dizajnerske kolekcije ili cikluse umjetničkih djela. Isto tako istražiti će se načini i tehnike tekstilnog kolaža za realizaciju dvodimenzionalnih i trodimenzionalnih elemenata u tekstilu primjenom postupka ručnog šivanja i veza. U eksperimentalnom dijelu rada izradit će se kolekcija unikatnih tekstila uporabom prirodnih i umjetnih tkanina, sastavljenih u višeslojne reljefne površine, s floralnim motivima. Ovaj rad ima za cilj prikazati kako se kroz spoj tradicije i inovacije može stvoriti unikatna kolekcija tekstila.In the thesis, in the theoretical part, the application of the floral motif on textiles through historical periods will be investigated. The most important authors for whom the floral motif was an inspiration for fashion designer collections or cycles of works of art will be presented. The ways and techniques of textile collage for realization will also be explored of two-dimensional and three-dimensional elements in textiles using manual sewing and embroidery procedures. In the experimental part of the work, a collection of unique textiles will be created using natural and artificial ones fabrics, assembled into multi-layered relief surfaces, with floral motifs. This work aims to show how a unique collection of textiles can be created through the combination of tradition and innovation

THROUGH RECYCLING OLD DENIM TO SUSTAINABLE FASHION AND THE AUTHOR'S COLLECTION

Ovaj rad istražuje održivi modus s fokusom na reciklažu trapera, analizirajući njegovu povijest, građu, proizvodnju i utjecaj na okoliš. S obzirom na ekološke izazove moderne industrije, istražen je koncept održivog trapera te mogućnosti njegove ponovne upotrebe. Kroz teorijski dio obrađene su metode reciklaže, cirkularna ekonomija i primjeri održivih inicijativa u industriji. U praktičnom dijelu izrađena je autorska kolekcija od recikliranog trapera, korištenjem starih odjevnih predmeta prikupljenih od prijatelja, obitelji i poznanika. Eksperimentiranjem s dekonstrukcijom i manipulacijom tkanine istražene su nove teksture i oblici. Rezultati pokazuju da je reciklaža trapera održiva i kreativna alternativa tradicionalnoj proizvodnji, dok manipulacija materijala omogućuje inovativne dizajnerske pristupe. Zaključno, rad naglašava važnost održive prakse u modnoj industriji i pokazuje kako reciklirani traper može biti osnova za stvaranje novih, ekološki prihvatljivih odjevnih predmeta.This thesis explores sustainable fashion with a focus on denim recycling, analyzing its history, structure, production, and environmental impact. Given the ecological challenges of the fashion industry, the study examines the concept of sustainable denim and its potential for reuse. The theoretical part covers recycling methods, the circular economy, and examples of sustainable initiatives within the industry. In the practical part, authors collection was created using recycled denim, sourced from old garments donated by friends, family, and acquaintances. Through experimentation with deconstruction and fabric manipulation, new textures and forms were explored. The results indicate that denim recycling is a sustainable and creative alternative to traditional production, while fabric manipulation enables innovative design approaches. In conclusion, the study highlights the importance of sustainable practices in the fashion industry and demonstrates how recycled denim can serve as a foundation for creating new, environmentally

MODIFICATION OF POLYESTER FABRIC TO IMPROVE THE BINDING OF THE BIOPOLYMER CHITOSAN AND REDUCE THE PARTICLE CONTENT IN WASTEWATER FROM THE WASHING PROCESS

Globalni problem opterećenja okoliša čestičnim tvarima iz različitih izvora nametnuo je potrebu istraživanja njihova podrijetla, karakterizacije te prevencije generiranja. U skladu s navedenim u ovom istraživanju, koje je provedeno u četiri faze, praćen je utjecaj konvencionalnih i naprednih procesa predobrade poliesterske tkanine s ciljem poboljšanoga vezanja biopolimera kitozana i smanjenja sadržaja čestične tvari u efluentima od procesa pranja. Konvencionalni postupci alkalne hidrolize provedeni su uz dodatak promotora, a napredni procesi predobrade primjenom tehnologije niskotlačne hladne plazme i ozoniranja. Utjecaj konvencionalnih i naprednih procesa predobrade poliesterske tkanine na postizanje poboljšanoga vezanja biopolimera kitozana i smanjenja sadržaja čestične tvari u otpadnoj vodi nadziran je u prve tri faze istraživanja u kojima su promatrani fenomeni praćeni analizom: i) svojstava i stabilnosti dobivenih polimernih struktura poliester/kitozan; ii) svojstava i stabilnosti dobivenih polimernih struktura poliester/kitozan nakon procesa pranja; iii) efluenata od procesa pranja s naglaskom na sadržaj čestične tvari; iv) filtarskog kolača dobivenog membranskom filtracijom efluenata od procesa pranja. U četvrtoj fazi istraživanja svi dobiveni rezultati obuhvaćeni su u provedbi hijerarhijske klaster analize kako bi se definirale sveobuhvatne sličnosti i razlike među promatranim uzorcima prije i nakon predobrada, modifikacije kitozanom i procesa pranja. Primjenom normiranih i instrumentalnih metoda analize svojstava tekstilnog materijala istražen je utjecaj procesa pranja na postignuta funkcionalna svojstva. Karakterizacija neobrađene i predobrađene poliesterske tkanine te formirane strukture poliester/kitozan provedena je određivanjem debljine i vlačnih svojstava. Nadalje su korištene metode određivanja vrijednosti pH vodenog ekstrakta, apsorbirane vode, potencijal strujanja, identifikacije kitozana, infracrvena spektroskopija s Fourierovom transformacijom (FTIR). Određivane su i morfološka obilježja tkanine i dobivene strukture, sadržaj karboksilnih skupina te antimikrobna aktivnost. Nakon izlaganja polimerne strukture čimbenicima u procesu pranja sa standardnim deterdžentom istražen je njihov utjecaj na postignuta funkcionalna svojstva te na potencijal otpuštanja čestica koji je praćen karakterizacijom efluenata fizikalno-kemijskim metodama s naglaskom na određivanje čestične tvari. Za karakterizaciju efluenata od procesa pranja predobrađene poliesterske tkanine te formirane strukture poliester/kitozan upotrijebljene su metode određivanja ukupne suspendirane, ukupne otopljene i ukupne čvrste tvari, vrijednosti pH i elektrovodljivosti, mutnoće, određivanja kemijske potrošnje kisika te biokemijske potrošnje kisika, analiza veličina i raspodjele čestica te zeta potencijal i elektroforetska mobilnost čestica. Karakterizacija filtarskog kolača provedena je mikroskopijom uparenom s FTIR spektroskopijom. Rezultatima istraživanja potvrđeno je da predobrađena i aktivirana površina poliesterske tkanine pokazuje veći afinitet za modifikacije svojstava biopolimerom kitozanom čime je dobivena struktura poliester/kitozan. Dobivene strukture poliester/kitozan zadržale su stabilnost nakon provedenih ciklusa pranja. Povoljno zaštitno djelovanje kitozana u dobivenim strukturama potvrđeno je u svim ciklusima pranja, a posebice u početnim ciklusima koji se smatraju ključnima za znatan potencijal otpuštanja čestične tvari. Provedena hijerarhijska klaster analiza, na svim dobivenim rezultatima, pokazala se svrsishodnom metodom za definiranje sličnosti i razlika među dobivenim poliester/kitozan strukturama prije i nakon procesa pranja.The global problem of environmental pollution by particulate matter from various sources has led to the need to investigate the origin, characterisation and prevention of the formation of particulate matter. In accordance with the statements of this study, which was carried out in four phases, the effects of conventional and advanced pretreatment processes of polyester fabrics were monitored with the aim of improving the binding of the biopolymer chitosan and reducing the particles in the effluents from the washing process. Conventional alkaline hydrolysis processes with the addition of promoters and advanced pretreatment processes using low pressure cold plasma and ozonation technology were carried out. The effects of the conventional and advanced pretreatment processes of polyester fabrics on achieving improved binding of the biopolymer chitosan and reducing particles in the wastewater were monitored in the first three research phases, in which the observed phenomena were analysed by: (i) properties and stability of the polyester/chitosan polymer structures; (ii) properties and stability of the obtained polyester/chitosan polymer structures after washing; (iii) effluents from washing, focusing on the content of particulate matter; (iv) filter cake obtained by membrane filtration of the washing effluents. In the fourth phase of the study, all the results obtained were included in the implementation of a hierarchical cluster analysis in order to define similarities and differences between the samples observed before and after pretreatment, modification with chitosan and washing. The influence of the washing process on the obtained functional properties was investigated by applying standardised and instrumental methods to analyse the properties of textile material. The characterisation of the untreated and pretreated polyester fabric and the polyester/chitosan structure formed was carried out by determining the thickness and tensile properties. In addition, the methods for determining the pH value of the aqueous extract, the absorbed water, the streaming potential, chitosan identification and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) were used. The morphological properties of the fabric and the structures obtained, the content of carboxyl groups and the antimicrobial activity were also determined. The resulting polymer structure was subjected to a washing process with a standard detergent at 60°C for 10 cycles to investigate the influence of the washing process on the obtained functional properties. The effluents were collected after each washing cycle and combined into a composite sample, from the first to the fifth cycle, from the sixth to the tenth cycle and in total from the first to the tenth cycle. The wastewater from the washing process was analysed by determining the particle content with the task of identifying released fibre fragments and the influence of the processing procedures on the release potential. Methods for determining total suspended solids, total dissolved solids, total solids, pH and electrical conductivity, turbidity, determination of chemical oxygen demand and biochemical oxygen demand, analysis of particle size and distribution, zeta potential and electrophoretic mobility of the particles were used for characterization of effluents from the washing of the pretreated polyester fabric and the polyester/chitosan structure formed. In addition to the analysis of the wastewater, an analysis of the filter cake obtained by membrane filtration of the wastewater was carried out to detect the released fibrils.The characterisation of the filter cake was carried out by microscopy in conjunction with FTIR spectroscopy. The results of the investigation confirmed that the pretreated and activated surface of the polyester fabric has a greater affinity for the modification of properties by the biopolymer chitosan, resulting in a polyester/chitosan structure. The polyester/chitosan structures obtained retained their stability even after washing cycles. The favourable protective effect of chitosan in the obtained structures was confirmed in all washing cycles, especially in the first cycles, which are considered crucial for the significant potential of particle release. The advanced pretreatment of polyester fabrics with low-pressure cold plasma technology and ozonation can be used as a technologically acceptable and more environmentally friendly substitute for conventional processes. Pretreatment processes and the number of washing cycles influence the content of particulate matter originally belonging to the biopolymer or polymer component of the polyester/chitosan structure. The characterisation of wash effluents by adjusting the TSS/TDS ratio and determining the characteristic particle diameters from the size distribution function enables the detection of the size categorisation of potentially released particles in the washing process. Particle size distribution is a useful method for the characterisation of effluents from the washing of polyester/chitosan structures as it enables the establishment of relationships with other parameters used for the characterisation of effluents. The distribution of size particles in effluents from the washing of polyester/chitosan structures depends on the structure of the polymer, the interaction of chitosan with the structure, the stability of the modification through successive washing cycles, the content and size of suspended particles and the effect of factors in the washing process. Colloids and particles, which are responsible for the degree of turbidity, usually have a negative surface charge, which is expressed by the zeta potential of the particles in the solution. Together with the electrophoretic mobility of the particles, they represent a valuable parameter in the characterisation of effluent particles. The application of micro-FTIR spectroscopy in analysing the filter cake obtained by membrane filtration of the effluent proved to be an effective method for detecting released particles and/or microfibrils. Hierarchical cluster analysis as an advanced statistical technique has proven its usefulness in analysing similarities and differences between polyester/chitosan structures prepared by different pretreatments and washing cycles