Određivanje sadržaja kisika u otpadnim vodama nakon pranja tekstila

Sadržaj otopljenog kisika u prirodnim i otpadnim vodama direktna je mjera kvalitete vode ali i pokazatelj opterećenja voda organskom tvari. Sadržaj organskih tvari u vodama određuje se kemijskom analizom, a kao najčešći parametri kojima se procjenjuje kvaliteta i stanje voda su pokazatelji ukupnog organskog opterećenja - biokemijska potrošnja kisika (BPK) i kemijska potrošnja kisika (KPK). U ovom radu dan je prikaz metoda određivanja kisika u vodama. Istražena je mogućnost primjene metode određivanja kisika otopljenog u vodi metodom po Winkleru te primjenjivost određivanja biokemijske potrošnje kisika respirometrijskom metodom (OxyTop mjerne glave) u karakterizaciji efluenata nakon pranja sintetskih tekstilnih materijala. Dobiveni rezultati ukazali su da je za određivanje sadržaja kisika otopljenog u vodi i određivanje BPK respirometrijski, posebnu pažnju potrebno usmjeriti na pripremu uzorka za analizu i na kontrolu eksperimentalnih uvjeta praćenjem utjecaja pH vrijednosti, elektrovodljivosti i sadržaja karbonata/ bikarbonata

RECONSTRUCTING COLLECTIVE MEMORY: KUTA AS AN INDICATOR OF SOCIO-ECONOMIC CHANGES

Početno istraživačko traganje započeto je pitanjem «može li se i je li se uspostavom Socijalističke Federativne Republike Jugoslavije ideja o revolucionarnoj (klasnoj i rodnoj) ravnopravnost utjelovila u odjevnom predmetu – radničkoj tj. školskoj kuti kao opredmećenoj ideji oslobođenog čovjeka». Sjećanja, prakse i značenja vezana uz, često tek ovlaš, opisan predmet upućivala su na prazninu i nepouzdanost povijesnog društvenog sjećanja, posebice u kontekstu izmjena političkih i ekonomskih sustava na području bivše SFRJ. Ovaj rad je pokušaj da se ukaže kako se kuta može i mora višerazinski posmatrati, ne nudi odgovore već postavlja pitanja i u zatečenom, svojevrsnom zrakopraznom, vremenu i prostoru uviđa konture sistematskog zaborava male povijesti.The initial research began with the question "whether, with the establishment of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, the idea of revolutionary (class and gender) equality was embodied in a garment – the workers', i.e. the school frock-like uniform (kuta) – as a materialized idea of a liberated human being." The memories, practices and meanings associated with the object, which is often vaguely or offhandedly described, point to a gap and unreliability of historical social memory, especially in the context of political and economic system changes within the countries of the former SFRY. This paper is an attempt to show how kuta can and must always be considered on multiple levels. It does not offer answers, but rather poses questions and, presented within a kind of temporal and spatial vacuum, is just beginning to unveil the contours of the systematic forgetting of a small history

Standardization in clothing technology

Skripta sadržava sve elemente i definicije normizacije, normi, analizira rad tijela zaduženih za normizaciju, definira ulogu Hrvatskog zavoda za normi, opisuje ISO i EN norme u odjevnoj industriji i norme za označivanje odjevnih veličina.The script contains all the elements and definitions of standardization, standards, analyzes the work of bodies responsible for standardization, defines the role of the Croatian Institute for Standards, describes ISO and EN standards in the clothing industry and standards for labeling clothing sizes

Project Results HRZZ IP-2018-01-6363 Development and thermal properties of intelligent clothing (ThermIC)

Znanstveno-istraživački projekt Razvoj i toplinska svojstva odjeće IP-2018-10-6363 (ThermIC) odobren i financiran od Hrvatske zaklade za znanost je vrlo značajan za razvitak odjevnog inženjerstva. Rezultirao je okupljanjem većeg broja znanstvenika s Tekstilno-tehnološkog fakulteta i Fakulteta elektrotehnike i računarstva, širokim spektrom istraživanja, objavom razmjerno velikog broja kvalitetnih radova, inovacijama i patentnim prijavama, ustrojem novog laboratorija te izradom doktorskih i diplomskih radova. Velika publicistička aktivnost na Projektu, koja je zasigurno doprinijela autorima pri njihovom znanstvenom i nastavnom napredovanju, omogućena je i zbog suvremene istraživačke opreme financirane od strane Hrvatske zaklade za znanost. Posebno treba napomenuti nabavku stroja za visokofrekventno spajanje polimernih materijala, stroja za koordinatno ravninsko šivanja, mjernog uređaja za mjerenje zrakopropusnosti, te realizaciju termoizolacijske komore za niske temperature kvadrature 4 m2. Aktivnosti na projektu provođene su u osam radnih skupina sa sljedećim ciljevima: 1. usavršavanje gradbene arhitekture i provjera uspješnosti reakcija nove generacije IOPATS. 2. uspostava novih mjernih metoda i protokola za mjerenje cjelovitih toplinskih svojstava konvencionalne i inteligentne odjeće. 3. uspostava Laboratorija za termoizolacijska svojstva odjeće u Zavodu za odjevnu tehnologiju u kojem je instaliran unikatni integrirani sustav za cjelovita ispitivanja toplinskih svojstava odjevnih kompozita i odjeće. 4.optimiranje reakcija inteligentne odjeće i određivanje cjelovitih toplinskih svojstava pri promjenjivim uvjetima okoliša u laboratorijskim uvjetima. U sklopu projekta izrađeno je više mjeriteljskih uređaja i prototipova dijelova odjeće i odjevnih predmeta koji su bili izloženi na domaćim i međunarodnim izložbama inovacija te su nagrađene vrlo prestižnim nagradama prikazanih u 10. poglavlju ove monografije. T akođer su Državnom zavodu za intelektualno vlasništvo Republike Hrvatske predane tri patentne prijave, čiji je prijavitelj Tekstilno-tehnološki fakultet. Svakako treba napomenuti da su članovi projekta, za vrijeme njegovog trajanja radili i na mnogim drugim projektima, a posebno treba staviti naglasak na sudjelovanje troje članova u pisanju 14 natuknica za Hrvatsku tehničku enciklopediju, od kojih je natuknica inteligentna odjeća usko vezana uz ovaj Projekt. Teme tri doktorska rada vezana su uz istraživanja na ovom Projektu, s time da je jedan doktorat obranjen, drugi je u završnoj fazi, a u sklopu trećeg doktorskog rada načinjen je pregled dosadašnjih istraživanja te je temeljito definirana metodologija istraživanja. Na temelju ostvarenih rezultata može se smatrati da je ostvarena znatno bolja znanstvena vidljivost članova projekta, Tekstilno-tehnološkog fakulteta, pa i Hrvatske u dijelu znanstvene zajednice koja se bavi tekstilnom i odjevnom tehnologijom. Oprema i ustroj novog laboratorija zasigurno će doprinijeti budućem razvoju znanstvenog rada u spomenutom području, što je osobito važno za nove naraštaje studenata i mladih znanstvenika. Provedena znanstvena istraživanja i utvrđeni rezultati na Projektu otvorili su nam nove spoznaje i nove pravce budućih istraživanja u odjevnom inženjerstvu

ADSORPTION OF CETYLPYRIDINIUM CHLORIDE ON CELLULOSIC SUBSTRATES

Celuloza i njezini derivati, zbog velike površine i adsorpcijskih svojstava, pogodni su nosači različitih kozmetičkih i terapeutskih pripravaka te lijekova za kontroliranu isporuku. U ovom su radu istražena dva celulozna adsorbensa i adsorbati, cetilpiridinijev klorid kao antiseptik i amoksicilin kao lijek. Adsorpcija cetilpiridinijevoga klorida na celulozne supstrate praćena je pri 25 °C i različitim vrijednostima pH, pH 9, pH 6 i pH 4, elektrokinetičkom metodom potencijala strujanja i mikrogravimetrijskom metodom kvarcne mikrovage s praćenjem disipacije (QCM-D). Cetilpiridinijev klorid (CPC), kao adsorbat, primijenjen je u dvjema koncentracijama, 1 mmol/L i 2,4 mmol/L, za pamučnu tkaninu (PT) u realnom i celulozni film (MCF) u modelnom sustavu. Dodatno je CPC s amoksicilinom ugrađenim u njegove micele analiziran kao funkcionalni adsorbat za oba celulozna supstrata. Procesima adsorpcije u realnom i modelnom sustavu prethodila je analiza svih adsorbata i adsorbensa. CPC formulacijama (CPC1, CPC2,4 i CPC/Amox), kao adsorbatima, određeni su molarna koncentracija (c), vrijednost pH, vodljivost (), zeta potencijal čestica u otopini (ζ), hidrodinamički promjer (dH), površinska napetost (σ) i apsorpcijski spektri. Celulozni adsorbensi karakterizirani su kroz stupanj polimerizacije (DP), aktivnu površinu (BET), morfologiju (SEM), kemijski sastav (FTIR), zeta potencijal (ζ) i bubrivost. Odabrane metode primijenjene su s ciljem analize parametara koji utječu na adsorpciju CPC-a i CPC/Amoxa u realnom i modelnom sustavu kao i njihove desorpcije. Na temelju rezultata utvrđena je korelacija između metoda, potencijal strujanja i QCM–D-a, kao i korelacija realnog (PT) i modelnog (MCF) sustava. Rezultati istraživanja potvrdili su postavljene hipoteze da je ugradnjom amoksicilina u CPC micele moguće razviti novu funkcionalnu koloidnu formulaciju. Procesi adsorpcije pokazali su da je amoksicilin ugrađen u CPC micele prihvatljiv adsorbat za pamučnu tkaninu i celulozni film. Elektrokinetička metoda potencijal strujanja prihvatljiva je za istraživanje adsorpcije CPC micela i njegove koloidne formulacije CPC/Amox u sustavu s celuloznim supstratima. Mikrogravimetrijska metoda QCM-D također je prihvatljiva za istraživanje adsorpcije CPC micela i njegove koloidne formulacije CPC/Amoxa u sustavu s celuloznim filmom (MCF). Rezultati desorpcije CPC/Amoxa s pamučne tkanine dobiveni metodama potencijala strujanja i QCM–D-a pokazali su najbolju stabilnost adsorbirane količine pri pH 9. Rezultati statističke analize potvrdili su da je moguće uspostaviti korelaciju između metoda potencijala strujanja i QCM-D-a za istraživanje adsorpcije iz CPC formulacija na celulozne supstrate.Cellulose and its derivatives are suitable as carriers for various cosmetic applications, therapeutic preparations and controlled drug delivery due to their large surface area and adsorption properties. They are characterized by their biocompatibility, hydrophilicity, biodegradability, non-toxicity and antimicrobial properties. In this resaerch, cotton fabric and cellulose film were investigated as a drug delivery systems. The adsorption of cetylpyridinium chloride on cotton cellulose and cellulose film was studied by varying the pH, concentration and functionalization of the micelles. Cetylpyridinium chloride (CPC) is the quaternary ammonium compound, which owns antibacterial properties due to its hydrophobic segment in the molecule. Interactions with gram-positive bacteria occur by interrupting the function of the membrane, leakage of cytoplasm and its destruction. Due to its antibacterial properties and its use in pharmacology and dentistry, the possibility of encapsulating amoxicillin in its micelles was investigated. Amoxicillin (Amox) is a broad spectrum antibiotic that belongs to the penicillin group, and is used in human and veterinary medicine. Due to its structure, the presence of acidic (carboxyl, -COOH) and basic (amino, -NH2) groups. Amox shows different ionic forms in aqueous solutions, depending on pH, which has been shown to be an advantage. The adsorption of cetylpyridinium chloride on the cellulose substrates was monitored at 25 °C and different pH values, pH 9, pH 6 and pH 4, using the electrokinetic method of streaming potential and the gravimetric method of the quartz-crystal microbalance with dissipation (QCM-D). Cetylpyridinium chloride was applied as an adsorbate at two cncentrations, 1 mmol/L and 2.4 mmol/L, for cotton fabric (PT) in the real, and cellulose thin films (MCF) in the model system. In addition, CPC with Amox embedded in its micelles was analyzed as a functional adsorbate for both cellulosic substrates. The adsorption processes in the real and model systems were preceded by the analysis of adsorbates and adsorbent properties. Cetylpyridinium chloride as adsorbate (CPC1, CPC2,4 and CPC/Amox) was characterized by the determination of molar concentration (c), pH, conductivity (), zeta potential of particles in solution (ζ), hydrodynamic diameter (dH), surface tension (σ) and absorption spectra. Cellulose adsorbents were characterized by degree of polymerization (DP), active surface area (BET), morphology (SEM), chemical composition (FTIR), zeta potential (ζ) and swelling. The selected methods were applied with the aim of analyzing the parameters affecting the adsorption of CPC and CPC/Amox in real and model systems as well as their desorption. Based on the results, the correlation between the methods, streaming potential and QCM-D, as well as the correlation of the real (PT) and model (MCF) systems, was determined. The research results confirmed the hypothesis that the incorporation of amoxicillin into CPC micelles allows the development of a new functional colloidal formulation. The adsorption processes showed that amoxicillin embedded in CPC micelles is an acceptable adsorbate for cotton fabric and cellulose film. Surface modification of textile materials, in this case cellulose substrates, for biomedical application is primarily aimed at introducing specific surface functionalities that change the surface charge of the material. The surface modification of the material can be detected by measuring the surface charge, for which the streaming potential method is suitable. The problem is that the measurements must be performed in the presence of an electrolyte, which can affect the properties of the adsorbate. In this research, it was previously determined that the electrolyte KCl at a concentration of 1 mmol/L has no effect on the physical and chemical properties of the adsorbate. According to the obtained results electrokinetic method the streaming potential is acceptable for studying the adsorption of CPC micelles and its colloidal formulation CPC/Amox in a system with cellulose substrates. The quartz crystal microbalance with dissipation was used to determine interfacial mass changes by dependence of QCM resonance frequency. The benefits of this method are shown by the fast adsorption data and a small amount of sample. In addition, it provides information about the change of mass on the tested sample, but also about changes on the surface, which differ by changes in dissipation. For this research, the results of QCM-D method proved to be convinient for the analysis of adsorption of CPC micelles and CPC/Amox on the model cellulose thin films (MCF), which provide information about surfaces during adsorption of colloidal formulations. The results of CPC/Amox desorption from cotton fabric obtained by the streaming potential method and QCM-D showed the best stability at pH 9. The results of the statistical analysis confirmed that it is possible to establish a correlation between the streaming potential method and QCM-D for the study of adsorption of CPC from colloidal formulation on cellulosic substrates

Contribution of CEE authors to psychological science: is the growing trend of publishing in non-CEE journals still present 10 years after its inception?

Following the previous research on the contribution of Central and Eastern European (CEE) authors to psychological science, this study aims to expand the research scope by investigating the process of internationalization of science in CEE countries which is closely related. The CEE authors belong to the geopolitically sidelined group of European countries. Their presence in psychological journals can be one of the indicators of the success of internationalization in psychology. The aim of this study is to analyse the trends in the scientific productivity of authors from CEE countries in the field of psychology by comparing papers published in CEE journals (published in CEE countries) and non-CEE journals (published in non-CEE countries) for the period 2014–2020. Using a qualitative and quantitative approach, 13,388 scientific papers published in 2089 journals indexed in Scopus were analysed. The goal was to define differences in trends in the paper publication in CEE and non-CEE psychological journals by authors from CEE countries. The results showed that CEE authors mostly published their work in non-CEE journals (69%), with the trend accelerating since 2019. The papers in both types of journals deal with similar topics of which most represented are clinical and health psychology, social psychology and cognitive psychology. The papers published in non-CEE journals mostly have a more complex methodology and greater institutional and international collaboration, which, along with the Anglicanization of CEE journals and the increased presence of CEE authors in psychological publications, confirms the internationalization of psychology

Uklanjanje reaktivnog bojila Everzol Black B procesom adsorpcije u prisutnosti povećane koncentracije soli

Uklanjanje reaktivnih bojila iz otpadnih voda tekstilne industrije važno je zbog negativnog utjecaja obojene vode na okoliš i zbog nastajanja opasnih nusprodukata tijekom razgradnje u okolišu. Jedna od najučinkovitijih metoda obezbojavanja otpadnih voda je adsorpcija na aktivnom ugljenu. U okviru ovoga rada ispitan je utjecaj soli NaCl, kao uobičajenog dodatka u kupelj za bojadisanje, na proces adsorpcije. Postupak je proveden izotermnom adsorpcijom (45 °C) reaktivnog bojila Everzol Black B koncentracije 500 mg dm3 na aktivnom ugljenu (0,1 g), u vremenu od 15 min – 16 sati uz dodatak 1 mol dm3 NaCl. Dobiveni rezultati uspoređeni su s rezultatima dobivenim adsorpcijom na aktivnom ugljenu bez dodatka soli i ukazuju da dodatak veće količine soli pospješuje postupak adsorpcije, ubrzavajući sam proces, a adsorpcija bojila provedena je s izvanrednom učinkovitošću od 99,9 %.The removal of reactive dyes from the wastewater of the textile industry is important due to the negative impact of colored water on the environment and due to the emergence of hazardous by-products during decomposition in the envionment. One of the effective methods of wastewater decolorization is adsorption on activated carbon. In this work, the influence of NaCl salt, as a commnon additive in the dye bath, was tested on adsorption process. Procedure was conducted by isothermal adsorption (45 °C) of the reactive dye Everzol Black B with a concetration of 500 mg dm-3 on activated carbon (0,1 g), in the time of 15 min – 16 hrs with addition of 1 mol dm-3 NaCl. The obtained results were compared with the results obtained by adsorption on activated carbon without the addition of salt and indicate that the addition of a larger amount of salt accelerates the adsorption process, accelerating the process itself and the dye adsorption was carried out with extraordinary efficiency of 99,9%

KOZMETO-TEKSTILIJE KAO PRIJENOSNICI AKTIVNIH TVARI PRIRODNOG PORIJEKLA NA KOŽU

The main goal of this thesis was to determine the methodology best suited for the quantification of active substances on cosmetic textiles, before and after their release in washing cycles. Prior to development of methodology for quantifying active substances on cosmetotextiles, it was necessary to synthesise microcapsules. Active substances, α-tocopherol and immortelle essential oil were selected and three different types of microcapsules were synthesised (containing α-tocopherol, immortelle essential oil and mixture of α-tocopherol and immortelle essential oil). The synthesis was optimised and the best amount of active substance and ethyl cellulose, which plays the role of a membrane in the synthesised microcapsules, in rate 1:3, (oil: ethyl cellulose) was selected for further investigations. Both, α-tocopherol and immortelle essential oil are very sensitive to external influences and encapsulation was a logical choice to prevent their decomposition, i.e. premature evaporation during and after the application to textiles. The synthesised microcapsules were analysed gravimetrically and microscopically to determine their morphology and to detect the presence of oil in the microcapsules. Antioxidant analysis was performed and demonstrated using Electron Spin Resonance (ESR) technique. As expected, α-tocopherol showed very strong antioxidant activity, but immortelle essential oil as an active substance showed significant antioxidant potential as well. Microcapsules containing α-tocopherol and the ones containing immortelle essential oil were selected for application to textiles. Cotton fabric was selected as a potential cosmetotextile due to its natural origin, hydrophilic and pleasant characteristics in contact with the skin. Studies were also conducted on other textile materials (e.g. PES/cotton, silk, modal and liocel). Three different applications methods were carried out: impregnation, exhaustion and electrospinning. Exhaustion method has proven to be the most acceptable, as it allowed a uniform binding of the microcapsules to the textiles under controlled conditions of temperature, time and concentration of the chemicals, which was not the case with impregnation and electrospinning. VI SEM confirmed the presence and unchanged morphology of the microcapsules after application to textiles, while HPLC qualitatively and quantitatively confirmed the presence of α-tocopherol on textiles. UV spectrophotometry confirmed qualitatively and quantitatively presence of immortelle essential oil on the treated textiles and the antioxidant content of the cosmetotextile containing microcapsules with α-tocopherol and immortelle essential oil. Remission spectrophotometry was used to analyse the whiteness before and after processing the textiles. The results revealed unsignificant change in the whiteness of the material after processing with microcapsules. Additionally, the presence of α-tocopherol on the treated textile was qualitatively confirmed by the drop test through a simple visual determination of colour change. Application of microcapsules containing 8 % (by weight of the material) has not achieved antibacterial and bactericidal properties in tests with cosmetotextile containing essential oil during testing with: Klebsiella pneumoniae (KP), Acinetobacter baumannii (AB) and Staphylococcus aureus, although immortelle has an antibacterial effect according to the literature. The dermatological test (Patch test) was performed on 50 subjects and all patients were negative for the tested textile samples. Since the tested patients were most likely to have sensitised skin, we could conclude that the tested textiles are hypoallergenic. The textiles treated with microcapsules were subjected to a test for fastness to washing, rubbing and light to determine the binding of the microcapsules as well as their release during the usage. The cosmetotextile containing microcapsules of essential oil were found to have good light resistance (55.74 % of the active substance was still present on the cosmetotextile after the test), but they were not wash-resistant, as no essential oil could be detected on the textiles after 10 washing cycles. The obtained rubbing fastness results showed that the oil was gradually released when rubbed on the skin, which was a necessary precondition to classify prototype as a cosmetotextile. Cosmetotextiles prototype containing microcapsules of ethyl cellulose and immortelle essential oil developed within the thesis can be used for clothing in close contact with the skin.Glavni cilj ovog rada je utvrđivanje metodologije koja je najprimjerenija za kvantificiranje aktivnih tvari na kozmetotekstilijama, prije i nakon njihovog otpuštanja i pranja. Kako bi se mogla provesti istraživanja te razraditi metodologija za kvantificiranje aktivnih sredstava na kozmetotekstilijama za početak je bilo potrebno sintetizirati mikrokapsule. Za sintezu su odabrana aktivna sredstva α-tokoferol i eterično ulje smilja te su sintetizirane tri različite vrste mikrokapsula (one koje sadrže samo α-tokoferol, one koje sadrže samo eterično ulje smilja i one koje sadrže α-tokoferol i eterično ulje smilja). Provedena je optimizacija sinteze te je odabrana optimalna količina aktivnog sredstva i etil celuloze koja ima ulogu membrane u sintetiziranim mikrokapsulama u omjeru 1:3 (ulje:etil celuloza). α-tokoferol i eterično ulje smilja su vrlo osjetljivi na vanjske utjecaje te je kapsuliranje bio logičan izbor za sprečavanje njihovog raspada, odnosno prijevremenog gubitka za vrijeme i nakon nanašanja na tekstil. Provedene su analize aktivnih sredstava prije sinteze u svrhu karakterizacije. Na sintetiziranim mikrokapsulama su provedene analize: gravimetrijska; mikroskopske (skenirajući elektronski mikroskop (SEM), konfokalni laserski skenirajući mikroskop (CLSM)) pomoću kojih je utvrđena morfologija mikrokapsula te dokazana prisutnost ulja unutar mikrokapsula; kvalitativne i kvantitativne analize (visokoučinkovita tekućinska kromatografija (HPLC) i UV spektrofotometrija); Fourier-ova transformacijska infracrvena spektrofotometrija (FTIR) analiza te antioksidativna analiza. Antioksidativna analiza je provedena na „Institutu Ruđer Bošković“ koristeći elektronsku spinsku rezonanciju (ESR) analizu te je dokazana antioksidativnost svih sintetiziranih mikrokapsula. α-tokoferol je pokazao veoma snažnu antioksidativnu aktivnost, ali i eterično ulje smilja kao aktivna supstanca je isto pokazala značajni antioksidativni potencijal. Nakon provedenih ispitivanja sintetiziranih mikrokapsula, za aplikaciju na tekstil su odabrane mikrokapsule s α-tokoferolom i mikrokapsule s eteričnim uljem smilja. Pamučna tkanina je odabrana kao potencijalna kozmetotekstilija jer je pamuk prirodnog podrijetla, hidrofilan je i ugodan u dodiru s kožom. Istraživanja su provedena i na drugim VIII tekstilnim materijalima (PES/pamuk, svila, modal i liocel) kako bi se istražila mogućnost primjene i na drugim tekstilnim materijalima u budućim istraživanjima. Provedene su tri različite aplikacije mikrokapsula na tekstil: impregnacija, iscrpljenje i elektroispredanje. Aplikacija iscrpljenjem se pokazala najprihvatljivijom jer se na taj način omogućuje mikrokapsulama da se vežu na tekstil egalno i u kontroliranim uvjetima temperature, vremena i koncentracije kemikalija što kod impregnacije i elektroispredanja nije slučaj. SEM-om je potvrđeno prisustvo i ne promijenjena morfologija mikrokapsula nakon aplikacije na tekstil, dok je HPLC-om kvalitativno i kvantitativno potvrđeno prisustvo α-tokoferola na tekstilu. UV spektrofotometrijom je potvrđeno kvalitativno i kvantitativno prisustvo eteričnog ulja smilja na obrađenom tekstilu te antioksidativnost kozmetotekstilija koje sadrže mikrokapsule s α-tokoferolom i eteričnim uljem smilja. Remisijskom spektrofotometrijom je analizirana bjelina prije i nakon obrade tekstila, a rezultati su pokazali da ne dolazi do značajnije promjene u bjelini materijala nakon obrade s mikrokapsulama. Jednostavnim vizualnim određivanjem promjene obojenja pomoću Testa kapi (Drop test) kvalitativno je potvrđeno prisustvo α-tokoferola na obrađenom tekstilu. Primjenom 8 % mikrokapsula (na masu materijala) nisu postignuta antibakterijska i baktericidna svojstva kozmetotekstilija s eteričnim uljem smilja tijekom ispitivanja sa: Klebsiella pneumoniae (KP), Acinetobacter baumannii (AB) i Staphylococcus aureus (SA) iako prema literaturi smilje ima antibakterijsku aktivnost. Dermatološki test (Patch test) je proveden na 50 ispitanika i svi bolesnici su bili negativni na testirane uzorke tekstila. S obzirom da su testirani bolesnici koji imaju senzibiliziranu kožu s velikom vjerojatnosti može se zaključiti da su ispitivane tekstilije hipoalergene. Tekstilni materijali obrađeni mikrokapsulama su podvrgnuti ispitivanju postojanosti na pranje, trenje i svjetlost kako bi se utvrdilo vezivanje mikrokapsula, kao i njihovo otpuštanje tijekom upotrebe jer je to najvažniji preduvjet da se takav tekstil uopće može nazvati kozmetotekstilijom. Nakon provedenih testova na postojanosti utvrđeno je da kozmetotekstilije koje sadrže mikrokapsule s eteričnim uljem smilja imaju dobru postojanost na svjetlo (nakon testa je na kozmetotekstiliji ostalo 55.74 % aktivne supstance), ali nisu postojane na pranje jer nakon 10 ciklusa pranja više nije bilo moguće detektirati eterično ulje na tekstilu. Dobiveni rezultati postojanosti na trenje ukazuju da IX se ulje postepeno otpušta prilikom trenja o kožu, što je u ovom slučaju poželjno jer se u protivnom razvijeni prototip tekstilije ne može kategorizirati kao kozmetotekstilija. UV spektroskopija se pokazala najboljom za kvantifikaciju eteričnog ulja smilja na kozmetotekstilijama. Ova analiza je jednostavna, rezultati su ponovljivi i male količine ulja je moguće detektirati navedenom analizom. Razvijeni prototip kozmetotekstilije pamučnog materijala s etil celuloznim mikrokapsulama koje sadrže eterično ulje smilja se može koristiti za odjevne predmete koji su u bliskom kontaktu s kožom (donje rublje, kratke majice, uske hlače, npr. tajice) te za maske za spavanje, posteljinu itd. u svrhu wellness tekstila

IMPACT OF PHYSICO-CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF ANTI-REDEPOSITION AGENTS ON THE ZETA POTENTIAL OF WASHED COTTON MATERIALS

Derivati celuloze i škroba, natrijeva karboksimetil celuloza (CMC) i natrijev karboksimetil škrob (CMS) istraženi su kao modifikatori površine i inhibitori posivljenja u procesu pranja standardne pamučne tkanine u tvrdoj i mekoj vodi pri različitim temperaturama. Odabrani polimeri su karakterizirani određivanjem stupnja supstitucije (DS), viskoznosti i morfološkim značajkama. Istraživanje je koncipirano kroz analizu utjecaja mehanike, kemije i temperature kao čimbenika Sinner-ovog kruga procesa pranja pri temperaturama 40 °C, 60 °C i 90 °C na svojstva pamučne tkanine. Utjecaj mehanike je praćen u dva procesna sustava različitih hidrodinamičkih performansi, a kemijski utjecaj varijacijom sastava kupelji u tvrdoj i mekoj vodi, pri čemu su deterdžentu dodani CMC, CMS, njihova mješavina (CMC+CMS), CMC niske viskoznosti (CMC LV) i CMC visoke viskoznosti (CMC HV). Pamučne tkanine prije i nakon 10 ciklusa pranja su karakterizirane preko sadržaja rezidualnih tvari, primjenom skenirajuće elektronske mikroskopije (SEM), skenirajuće elektronske mikroskopije s elementarnom analizom (SEM-EDS) i infracrvene spektroskopije s Fourierovom transformacijom (FTIR). Primijenjeni polimeri u sastavu deterdženta analizirani su kroz potencijal modifikacije površine pamučne celuloze i inhibiranje prijelaza prljavštine sa standardnih donora zaprljanja na modificirane i nemodificirane pamučne tkanine. Stupanj modifikacije pamučne tkanine u procesu pranja deterdžentom uz dodatak odabranih polimera dodanih deterdžentu u tvrdoj i mekoj vodi pri navedenim temperaturama praćen je mjerenjem potencijala strujanja u ovisnosti o pH kalijevog klorida iz kojeg je određen zeta potencijal. Dobiveni rezultati zeta potencijala i sadržaja rezidualnih tvari standardnih pamučnih tkanina prije i nakon pranja ukazali su na razlike između pojedinih polimera, te na svrhovitost provedbe hijerarhijske klasterske analize u ocjeni potencijala primijenjenih polimera u modifikaciji površine obzirom na složenost procesa pranja i potrebu povezivanja pojedinih parametara Sinner-ovoga kruga. Odnos naboja površine pamučnih tkanina opranih u laboratorijskom uređaju u tvrdoj i mekoj vodi pokazuje da CMC HV u svim analiziranim uvjetima tvrdoće vode i temperature ima najveći potencijal modifikacije, odnosno najviše povećava negativnu vrijednost zeta potencijala pamučne tkanine.Cellulose and starch derivatives, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC) and sodium carboxymethyl starch (CMS) were investigated in the washing process as surface modifiers of standard cotton fabric and antiredeposition agents in hard and soft water at 40 °C, 60 °C and 90 °C. Selected polymers were characterized by determining the degree of substitution (DS), viscosity and morphological characteristics. The research was conceived through the analysis of the influence of mechanics, chemistry and temperature as factors of the Sinner cycle of the washing process at temperatures of 40 °C, 60 °C and 90 °C on the properties of cotton fabric. The influence of mechanics is monitored through two process systems of different hydrodynamic performances. The chemical effect was monitored through the largest number of variations in the composition of the bath in hard and soft water, CMC, CMS, their mixture (CMC + CMS), CMC low viscosity (CMC LV) and CMC high viscosity (CMC HV) added to the detergent. The applied polymers were analyzed through the potential of modifying the surface of cotton cellulose and inhibiting the depostion of stain from standard donors to modified and unmodified cotton fabrics. The degree of modification of cotton fabric in the washing process with detergent and selected polymers added to detergent in hard and soft water at selected temperatures was monitored by measuring the streaming potential from which the zeta potential was determined. The surface charge of cotton fabrics before and after modification in washing was measured in electrolyte solution, 0.001 mol / L KCl through a titration procedure from alkaline to acidic media. The obtained results of zeta potential and residual matter content of standard cotton fabrics before and after washing indicated differences between individual polymers, and the expediency of hierarchical cluster analysis in assessing the potential of applied polymers in surface modification. Cotton fabrics before and after 10 wash cycles were characterized by residual substance content, using scanning electron microscopy (SEM), scanning electron microscopy with energy dispersive spectroscopy (SEM-EDS), Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. The ash values for cotton fabrics washed in hard water depend on the washing conditions, and generally are 6 to 10 times higher than the ash values of cotton fabrics washed in soft water. The generation of incrustations in hard water and deposition on the surface of cotton fabrics at 60 °C and 90 °C is higher compared to 40 °C, which confirms the insufficient potential of the builder to bind alkaline earth ions at 60 °C and 90 °C. A review of all results shows that the high degree of water hardness and washing temperature have a dominant influence on the total ash content of washed cotton fabrics. A comparison of the values of ash from fabrics washed with detergent of different composition in hard water at all temperatures with the values of ash from cotton fabrics washed only in hard water indicates that washing with detergent affected the additional incrustations on the fabric surface, generally six times at 40 °C, eight times at 60 °C and almost quadruple at 90 °C. This can be attributed to the conditions of washing standard cotton fabric without soiling for 10 cycles with detergent, whose ingredients were not act to remove stain. Some organic components (soap and anionic surfactants) in the detergent in interaction with ions of alkaline earth ions generated moderately soluble and / or insoluble deposits, which burdened the surface of cotton fabric and increased the content of residual substances (total ash). Slightly lower values in total ash of cotton fabric washed in a laboratory washing machine compared to fabric washed in a laboratory device can be explained by a stronger mechanical and hydrodynamic effect when washed in a laboratory washing machine. Based on the obtained spectrograms, FTIR spectroscopy is not a suitable method for characterization of such a modified cotton fabric in different washing procedures. Washing with detergent in soft and hard water at different temperatures affects the changes in the zeta potential of cotton fabrics. The values were less negative compared to unwashed cotton fabric. Minor negative values may indicate the impossibility of complete dissociation of the active groups of cellulose. The detergent containing builders softened the water, while its other ingredients were not focused on the primary task – stain removal, but partly overloaded the cotton surface. The surface charge of a CMS-modified fabric in hard water at 60 °C is similar to the surface charge of a standard cotton fabric in a highly alkaline media. Based on the obtained ratios, it can be concluded that CMC as a modifier in detergent has a more favorable effect on increasing the negative charge of the surface of cotton fabric in soft water at 40 ° C and 60 °C. Zeta potential curves indicate a dominant influence of CMC in the CMC + CMS mixture over the CMS. Following the differences between the curves and the values of the zeta potential, it can be seen that polymer-modified cotton fabrics in soft water have a more negative surface charge compared to polymer-modified fabrics in hard water. Based on the obtained ratios, CMC as a polymer had the effect of increasing the negative charge of the surface of cotton fabric modified in soft water at 40 °C, 60 °C and 90 °C. Cotton fabrics modified with a CMC at 90 °C in hard water had a less negative surface charge compared to almost all other polymer-modified cotton fabrics. This is related to the influence of elevated temperature (90 °C) on the weaker potential of CMC, and not to the degree of deposits, since their content on the surface of detergent-modified fabrics with CMC at 40 °C, 60 °C and 90 °C in hard water is almost equal (0.84%; 1.01%; 1.49%), and soft water is low (from 0.20% to 0.27%). The polymers, CMC HV and CMC LV added to the detergent in the wash at 40 °C had the effect of increasing the negative charge of the cotton fabric, thus showing the highest degree of modification. The degree of settling of residual substances on the surface of fabric washed at 40 °C and 90 °C did not affect the orientation of the CMC HV, which confirmed the more negative charge of the cotton fabric surface. Exceptionally, in these conditions, the CMC HV polymer has the greatest potential for reducing the zeta potential, ie lower values compared to unwashed cotton fabric. The charge ratio of the surface of cotton fabrics washed in a laboratory device in hard and soft water showed that CMC HV in all analyzed conditions of water hardness and temperature had the greatest potential for modification, ie increased the negative value of the zeta potential of cotton fabric

Fashion stories of TTF students

Umjetnička knjiga obuhvaća presjek realiziranih studenskih radova studenata TTF-a na kolegijima Kreiranje odjeće koji su bili javno prezentirani. Za modu se može reći da je ogledalo društva koja postaje dio kulture te na određeni način pokazuje trenutačno stanje u društvu. Odijevanje predstavlja kulturnu činjenicu, a odijelo je istodobno predmet sa svojom stvarnom funkcijom i znak sa svojom simbolikom. Moda postaje izraz osobnosti, sredstvo socijalizacije i identifikacije. Bez obzira kako individualno gledamo na nju, činjenica je da su modni i umjetnički svijet isprepleteni nitima bezgranične mašte i potrebe za stvaranjem što je ujedno i bilo polazište studentima za njihove modno umjetničke kreacija.The art book includes a cross-section of realized student works of TTF students on the courses Creativity in clothing that were publicly presented. Fashion can be said to be a mirror of society that becomes part of culture and shows the current state of society in a certain way. Clothing represents a cultural fact, and a suit is both an object with its real function and a sign with its symbolism. Fashion becomes an expression of personality, a means of socialization and identification. No matter how we look at it individually, the fact is that the fashion and art worlds are intertwined with threads of boundless imagination and the need to create, which was also the starting point for the students for their fashion and artistic creations