Electric Corset:an approach to wearables innovation

<p>One criticism of electronic textiles and wearable technology is that instead of being integrated into the modern wardrobe, the electronic garment is perceived as the ‘other’, as an ‘unusual’ item within the wardrobe. Contemporary fashion is a field of play in which individuals constantly manage personal expressions of social belonging and transgression, at the same time as it closes down the potential for new forms as a result of increasingly fast fashion supply chains. The Electric Corset project proposes that the uptake of wearables is compromised when development is based on modern categories of dress/dressing, and proposes that designers look to obsolete and ‘in-between’ items of dress to rethink the foundations of wearables development. In collaboration with Nottingham Museums and Galleries Costume and Textiles Collection, we have reproduced a small selection of such items, and recast them as ‘sacrificial’ toiles to provide a non-precious basis for embodied experimentation. The paper describes some of the barriers to innovation in wearable technologies, and frames our approach through the twin concepts of deconstruction and reconstruction in fashion theory. It reports on our experiences of embodied responses to the toiles within the making process, and presents early findings from a pilot study using improvisation.</p

Light my elbows: a cycling jacket incorporating electronic yarn

There is a need for illuminated cycle clothing that is comfortable and safe when cycling, and stylish to wear during other activities. It is particularly challenging to integrate lighting within textiles without compromising the drape and comfort of the textile structure. A team of electronics, textiles and fashion specialists was formed to design and make an illuminated jacket for use by cyclists. The jacket incorporates bespoke woven panels that integrate electronic yarns within the pattern. These were designed and made for this project, with fluorescent and retroreflective yarns also included in the weave. LEDs integrated within the electronic yarns illuminate the elbows of the jacket, without causing constraint or adding excess volume. The movement of the jacket elbows during cycling widens the body outline and makes the lighting eye-catching. The collaboration between electronics and textiles experts overcame challenges including development of electrical circuitry designed specifically to fit into the jacket unobtrusively, without interfering with movement or rucksack straps. Electrical connections were required between the electronic yarns assimilated within the weave. Standard, rigid solder joints would have been difficult to form without damaging the cloth and would have been liable to breakage within the garment structure, so embroidery techniques were used to create flexible, conductive connections. The illuminated jacket provides a working prototype, demonstrating the potential for further collaborative ventures in which electronics are integrated into garments that are stylish, functional and ‘wearable’. Further interdisciplinary research will include the development of additional wearable prototypes that enhance safety and wellbeing, whilst addressing the recycling of the textiles and garments, including the safe separation and disposal of electronic yarn and other components that provide electrical functionality