Craft practice for sustainability. Re-thinking commercial footwear design process with a woven textile approach

The role of hand processes in design has evolved through history and in the present day, designers frequently employ digital methods. This brings opportunities but can limit material knowledge and it is therefore timely to reflect on the significance of hand processes. This paper explores the potential of craft-based woven textile approaches to designing sandals for large-scale manufacture. It addresses the research questions: what is the current situation/market in footwear/woven textile design; what are the benefits/drawbacks of a hands-on/craft-based approach to footwear design; does the approach have the potential to facilitate improved sustainability and if so, in what capacity? The paper presents findings from a practice-led study and key advantages of a craft-based approach were identified in generating in-depth knowledge of constructions and materials. This led to design outcomes that have potential benefits in sustainability through a zero/low-waste construction. However, the findings indicate difficulties in logistics, timescale and cost efficiency

Designing through craft practice: A woven textile approach for footwear

Commercial sandals are typically designed in a two-dimensional (2D) format with materials being applied during product development. In contrast, woven textile practitioners frequently utilize hands-on interaction with materials to produce design ideas through a craft-based approach. Hands-on making has been associated with a number of benefits including, but not limited to, knowledge generation and the potential for innovation. This article reports on practice-led research consisting of a sandal design project that integrates craft-based woven textile practice. Action research was used to develop the approach and evaluate the creative potential and practical considerations at different stages of the design process. Ultimately, this research determines where and how craft-based woven textile practice may be integrated into commercial footwear design and identifies the associated creative design potential. Qualitative data was recorded by written and visual means of documentation and analyzed using coding and clustering. The findings indicate that there is novel creative potential associated with the integration of a craft-based woven textile approach to sandal design and that it may be integrated to varying degrees at all stages of the design process. Benefits include opportunities for innovation, generation of in-depth knowledge, control, and immediacy in decision-making. Key challenges were noted in time and cost inefficiencies. The ability to consider material and product design in parallel ensured a considered relationship between the two. This led to benefits in the final designs that included the production of zero-waste, stitch free constructions. This research contributes empirical evidence and findings in relation to theoretical concerns in the area of craft practice as a vehicle for design innovation

Craft-based design for innovation: Potential in novelty, quality and sustainability through hands-on interaction

The industrial revolution created a rise in mass manufacture, increasing consumption to current unsustainable levels and marking a decline in hands-on craft practice. In contemporary practice, designers frequently employ digital ways of working and, whilst this may create opportunities and efficiencies, it can limit the working of materials by hand. In contrast, hands-on craft processes can develop in-depth knowledge and understanding to help solve complex and novel design problems. With increasing use of digital design methods, it is timely to reflect on the role and value of hands-on craft practices. The study explores the use of craft-based approaches to support design practice in relation to novelty and quality and considers its future potential to contribute to design for sustainability. A design project that integrated hand weaving with sandal design was undertaken and qualitative data collected. This was analyzed through data reduction, coding, clustering and display and is presented as a case study. The findings indicate that a craft-based approach can contribute to a heightened control of materials, construction and awareness of wider design issues such as the development process, production methods and environmental impact. Difficulties were identified in inefficient use of time and a knowledge/skills gap between specialist design and craft disciplines

Footwear design process interview transcripts

The data consists of four interview transcripts conducted with professional footwear designers working for two global brands. The data provides insights into emerging digital design processes, conventional footwear design approaches and feedback on a woven textile design approach

Weave as a method of sandal design: innovation through a hands-on approach

This research investigated the application of a hands-on woven textile approach to sandal design. It identified and assessed the creative design potential, the practical considerations, and the relevance of positioning it within the ready-to-wear footwear market. A design process model was produced in relation to the findings to develop an industry relevant framework. The aim of this was to provide an approach to enhancing competitive advantage through design innovation. Through a critical discussion and analysis of design approaches the research also aimed to contribute to knowledge within the academic field of design process theory. A critical literature review was carried out which focused on current and state-of-the-art practices and products in footwear and woven textiles; the commercial contexts in which they sit; and academic theory of design approaches and hands-on making to support innovation. This contextualised and provided a reference point for the empirical research. Data was collected via a series of practice-based case studies in the form of design projects, in-depth semi-structured interviews and a focus group with design professionals. The design process model was developed in response to the findings and it depicts a collaborative approach between woven textile and footwear designers that is relevant within a commercial design context. The hands-on woven textile approach under investigation consisted of the integration of hand weaving and other associated processes into the sandal design. Materials and constructions were considered at the early, explorative stages of the design process in parallel with form giving. The research findings indicated that the in-depth knowledge of materials and constructions gained through hands-on making could enhance creativity by informing design concepts. Weaving by hand was found to provide heightened levels of control for design development, allowing for technical and subjective decision making to take place in parallel. In these respects, the hand weaving process was most applicable to carrying out in-depth research into materials and constructions and in supporting design development through a process of sampling and review. Quick methods of 3D modelling supported idea generation and digital processes aided visualisation and the presentation of design proposals. Additionally, the research provides an example of a practice-based methodology for design process research. Methods of data collection, analysis and dissemination are presented and discussed throughout

These shoes were made by warping

These shoes were made by warpin

Weave as a method of sandal design: Focus group transcript

The data consists of a transcript of a focus group conducted with 5 footwear design professionals. The aim was to validate findings from practice-based PhD research that investigated the potential for a woven textile approach to footwear design. It also aimed to provide feedback on the use of designed artefacts to disseminate research findings to a non-academic audience

These shoes were made by warping

These shoes were made by warpin

Handweaving as a catalyst for sustainability

Sustainability has become a key priority within textiles and the associated industries. Whilst there has been a move towards more sustainable practice, there is still some way to go. A multifaceted holistic approach is needed to facilitate meaningful and effective change. Craft practice, including handweaving, has long been regarded as being a more sustainable alternative to mass production as it promotes the production of high-quality goods and encourages slow rates of consumption. Additionally, handweaving has the potential to contribute via a range of other strategies including, but not limited to, modular design, on-demand localised production, added value through customisation and more. The Chapter firstly presents a review of the role of craft, craft-based design and handweaving in relation to key models of sustainability and the circular economy is a particular area of focus. It then draws upon a case study of practice, undertaken by the first author, which focussed on the incorporation of the design of end products into the handweaving process. Prior professional design experience in footwear and woven textiles enabled the production of a series of fully-fashioned, low waste handwoven sandal upper designs. Practice was used to support data collection and qualitative data analysis revealed insights into the opportunities and limitations of the design methods and approach. Key areas of potential for handweaving to contribute to the advancement of sustainable design practice are identified. They are then mapped against key principles of the circular economy and a number of strategies such are identified which can contribute to the advancement of sustainable design practice. The Chapter focuses on the potentiality of the approach and future testing is required to further validate the theories presented