Coastal vulnerability assessment based on video wave run-up observations at a mesotidal, steep-sloped beach

Coastal imagery obtained from a coastal video monitoring station installed at Faro Beach, S. Portugal, was combined with topographic data from 40 surveys to generate a total of 456 timestack images. The timestack images were processed in an open-access, freely available graphical user interface (GUI) software, developed to extract and process time series of the cross-shore position of the swash extrema. The generated dataset of 2% wave run-up exceedence values R 2 was used to form empirical formulas, using as input typical hydrodynamic and coastal morphological parameters, generating a best-fit case RMS error of 0.39 m. The R 2 prediction capacity was improved when the shore-normal wind speed component and/or the tidal elevation η tide were included in the parameterizations, further reducing the RMS errors to 0.364 m. Introducing the tidal level appeared to allow a more accurate representation of the increased wave energy dissipation during low tides, while the negative trend between R 2 and the shore-normal wind speed component is probably related to the wind effect on wave breaking. The ratio of the infragravity-to-incident frequency energy contributions to the total swash spectra was in general lower than the ones reported in the literature E infra/E inci > 0.8, since low-frequency contributions at the steep, reflective Faro Beach become more significant mainly during storm conditions. An additional parameterization for the total run-up elevation was derived considering only 222 measurements for which η total,2 exceeded 2 m above MSL and the best-fit case resulted in RMS error of 0.41 m. The equation was applied to predict overwash along Faro Beach for four extreme storm scenarios and the predicted overwash beach sections, corresponded to a percentage of the total length ranging from 36% to 75%.info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

Shoaling of solitary waves on plane beaches

Shoaling of solitary waves on both gentle (1:35) and steeper slopes (≤1:6.50) is analyzed up to breaking using both a fully nonlinear wave model and high-accuracy laboratory experiments. For the mildest slope, close agreement is obtained between both approaches up to breaking, where waves become very asymmetric and breaking indices reach almost twice the value for the largest stable symmetric wave. Bottom friction does not seem to affect the results at all. Wave celerity decreases during shoaling and slightly increases before breaking. At breaking, the crest particle velocity is almost horizontal and reaches 90% of the crest celerity, which is two to three times larger than the bottom velocity. The nonlinear shallow water (NSW) equations and the Boussinesq approximation both fail to predict these results. Finally, shoaling rates for various wave heights and bottom slopes differ from the predictions of Green’s or Boussinesq shoaling laws. On the mildest slope, shoaling rates roughly follow a “two-zone” model proposed earlier but on steeper slopes reflection becomes significant and wave heights change little during shoaling. © ASCE

J. Fluid Mech. (2000), vol. 418, pp. 25--57. Printed in the United Kingdom

this paper to analyse this in detail and it is found that because the basic assumptions of Hornung et al. are not satisfied, their conclusions must also be modified, in particular with respect to the need for a particular amount of (negative) vorticity downstream of the jum

A 1D stabilized finite element model for non-hydrostatic wave breaking and run-up

International audienc

Accounting for uncertainties in forecasting tropical-cyclone-induced compound flooding

Tropical-cyclone impacts can have devastating effects on the population, infrastructure, and natural habitats. However, predicting these impacts is difficult due to the inherent uncertainties in the storm track and intensity. In addition, due to computational constraints, both the relevant ocean physics and the uncertainties in meteorological forcing are only partly accounted for. This paper presents a new method, called the Tropical Cyclone Forecasting Framework (TC-FF), to probabilistically forecast compound flooding induced by tropical cyclones, considering uncertainties in track, forward speed, and wind speed and/or intensity. The open-source method accounts for all major relevant physical drivers, including tide, surge, and rainfall, and considers TC uncertainties through Gaussian error distributions and autoregressive techniques. The tool creates temporally and spatially varying wind fields to force a computationally efficient compound-flood model, allowing for the computation of probabilistic wind and flood hazard maps for any oceanic basin in the world as it does not require detailed information on the distribution of historical errors. A comparison of TC-FF and JTWC operational ensembles, both based on DeMaria et al. (2009), revealed minor differences of &lt;10 %, suggesting that TC-FF can be employed as an alternative, for example, in data-scarce environments. The method was applied to Cyclone Idai in Mozambique. The underlying physical model showed reliable skill in terms of tidal propagation, reproducing the storm surge generation during landfall and flooding near the city of Beira (success index of 0.59). The method was successfully applied to forecasting the impact of Idai with different lead times. The case study analyzed needed at least 200 ensemble members to get reliable water levels and flood results 3 d before landfall (&lt;1 % flood probability error and &lt;20 cm sampling errors). Results showed the sensitivity of forecasting, especially with increasing lead times, highlighting the importance of accounting for cyclone variability in decision-making and risk management.</p