Aspect prediction of the knitted fabrics from the yarn properties

The textile technologist knows that the prediction of the aspect of a finished knitted fabric, by the parameters of yarn evenness, does not agree, often, with the reality. There are fabrics, in the market, with irregular aspect, made with yarns in which we have detected few faults. The conventional criteria that are considered in the evenness measuring equipments for the faults detection in the yarns are very limited.In this paper a new evenness of mass index is proposed, denominated deviation rate DR, that, according to it is demonstrated in the experimental stage, it follows an excellent statistical correlation with the aspect of the knitted fabrics.Peer ReviewedPostprint (published version

Contemporary customized clothes using folk motifs

[EN] More and more consumers are attracted to fashion brands that make an extra effort to offer them personalized experiences. The unique details, as well as the complexity of the decorative elements of the folk costume inspire the fashion designers to return to the folk motifs, which they reinterpret and resize while integrating them in the contemporary space, offering models adapted to the customers' tastes, sizes and preferences and at the same time to make mass customization a profitable production. This study addresses the issue of personalizing clothing items with folk motifs. In order to collect information on consumer satisfaction regarding the use of folk motifs in contemporary clothing, an online survey about the clothing available on the market and about personalized clothes with folk motifs was developed and applied. The survey was applied to a number of 548 respondents from Romania, Bulgaria, Canada and Spain. To determine the correlation between the answers to the questions for the four countries and to analyse the answers in each country, the PCA method was used. Based on the answers to the survey, certain motifs from the folk costumes were selected, reinterpreted in a modern way and inserted in two fabric patterns. The fabrics were produced on a Loom Jacquard SMIT Textile GS900.Indrie, L.; Bellemare, J.; Zlatev, Z.; Tripa, S.; Díaz-García, P.; Montava-Seguí, I.; Ilieva, J. (2021). Contemporary customized clothes using folk motifs. Industria Textila. 72(6):632-638. https://doi.org/10.35530/IT.072.06.183463263872

New Development in the core yarns manufacture

A new mechanism for the regulation of feeding tension of elastic filaments has been developed, in cooperation with a reputable manufacturer of textile machinery, to obtain “core spun” yarns. This device reduces, of a very significant form, the coefficient of variation of the elongation of the yarn and, consequently, the fabrics obtained with this yarns are more regular appearance. This mechanism is fundamental when the new spools of T-400, with diameter and weight superiors to the standard size, are processed.Postprint (published version

The use of CAD/CAM for textile designs and fabrics

[EN] The paper illustrates the role of CAD/CAM technology in developing virtual textile design on the computer screen. First, it was created the shape of the symbol "Flower of Life" from Sacred Geometry by using the CAD system ASCON Kompas for the design of shapes and the graphic software Adobe Photoshop for colour combinations. Then, we drew few graphic sketches of garments on which we applied the textile design ¿Flower of life¿. In order to obtain fabric-manufacturing orders, the image was processed with a specific design software for fabric: EAT DesignScope Victor. At last, we converted the design into a fabric by using the weaving machine Smit Textile GS900 Jacquard Loom.Indrie, L.; Díaz-García, P.; Kazlacheva, Z.; Montava-Seguí, I.; Ilieva, J. (2019). The use of CAD/CAM for textile designs and fabrics. Applied Researches in Technics, Technologies and Education (Online). 7(1):24-28. https://doi.org/10.15547/artte.2019.01.003S24287

Old maps and the effectiveness of chitosan as antimicrobial agent

[EN] In the case of tangible cultural heritage items made of natural fibres, biodegradation due to microorganisms can lead over time to undesirable deterioration, including physical, mechanical and chemical damage as well as aesthetic alteration of materials. In this study, the antifungal activity tests were performed on 3 old maps (on silk, on canvas and on paper) using the AATCC 30-2004 test method. Map samples were immersed in a chitosan solution (10 g/l) and evaluated using Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) with a Field Emission Scanning Electron Microscope (ULTRA 55, ZEISS). The process showed that, due to its antimicrobial effect, chitosan treatment is effective for removing external agents and microorganisms present on fibre surfaces. The technique is simple, efficient and the results indicated that chitosan can be transformed into a very good and cheap antimicrobial solution for the conservation and preservation of heritage objects.The research article was produced with equal scientific involvement of all authors. We acknowledge the partially contribution of University of Oradea Grants, Competition "Scientific Research of Excellence Related to Priority Areas with Capitalization through Technology Transfer: INO-TRANSFER-UO", Projects No. 329/2021; No. 317/2021.Indrie, L.; Capablanca Francés, L.; Erden, E.; Kilic, M.; Ilies, DC.; Grama, V.; Safarov, B.... (2022). Old maps and the effectiveness of chitosan as antimicrobial agent. Industria Textila. 73(4):420-425. https://doi.org/10.35530/IT.073.04.20215642042573

Considerations Regarding the Research for the Conservation of Heritage Textiles in Romania

Textiles are valuable elements that make up Romania’s cultural heritage, being unique through the production techniques, materials used and their significance for the Romanian population. Heritage textiles represent bridges between past and present, kept in collections from different types of buildings. Many of them are preserved and exposed in heritage buildings that are open for public viewing and do not benefit from internal microclimate monitoring systems. These things can have serious repercussions on the integrity and conservation status of these fragile materials. The chapter proposes to analyze the approaches used in different studies to evaluate the risks to which the historical textile collections from Romania are exposed, depending on the place and the way in which they are kept. All these approaches aim to determine the degree of conservation of the materials and their implications on the health of the people with whom they come into contact. Based on the methodology applied in the studies already published, examined in the first part of the chapter, in the second part, a case study was performed on a different sample of historical textiles from Romania. This comes to complete the sphere of knowledge in the field

Enhancing Mechanical Properties and Flux of Nanofiber Membranes for Water Filtration

Nanofibres have gained attention for their highly porous structure, narrow pore size, and high specific surface area. One of the most efficient techniques for producing nanofibres is electrospinning. These fibres are used in various fields, including water filtration. Although they possess the ability to filter various components, the fibres generally have low mechanical strength, which can mitigate their performance over time. To address this, studies have focused on enhancing nanofibre membrane strength for water filtration. Previous analyses show that the mechanical properties of nanofibre mats can be improved through solvent vapour treatment, thermal treatment, and chemical crosslinking. These treatments promote interfibre bonding, leading to the improvement of mechanical strength. However, excessive treatment alters nanofibre behaviour. Excessive heat exposure reduces interfibre bonding, while too much solvent vapour decreases pore size and mechanical strength. Thus, a comprehensive understanding of these post-treatments is crucial. This review examines posttreatments aiming to increase the mechanical strength of nanofibre mats, discussing their advantages and disadvantages. Understanding these treatments is essential for optimising nanofibre membrane performance in water filtration and other applications

A CRITICAL AND COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF THE INDUSTRIAL CORPORATIONS IN THEIR EVOLUTIONARY DYNAMIC

Since the 2000s, a series of mergers and acquisitions of brand at industrial corporations’ level has been observed in the global industry landscape, and an even more pronounced dynamism was manifested in Europe. The wave of mergers and acquisitions continues nowadays, when the concentration of the dominant "actors" on the industrial stage is followed by a similar process of creating enterprises able to compete with the first ones, either by the size of production or financial strength, or by innovativeness and introduction of new and competitive products. The existence of the Common Market and the EU on our continent has contributed enormously to the process of restructuring the "old" Europe. In the first phase of the European construction, the stage where national markets were still dominant, but there could be noticed a serious growth of competition, in Europe there has been produced a huge wave of mergers, for many surprising. Once with the consolidation of the European Community, a new phase begins, in which enterprises begin to adopt "continental" strategies and policies, reasoning according to the logic of a market area. Through international mergers means, is implemented a strategy that adapts the minimization of costs and simultaneously an insurance policy against a future possible currency devaluation. Today we are witnessing the third stage, with rules that tend quickly towards a complete unification and a single currency. The agreements between the European enterprises can be considered favorable because they often lead to high levels of efficiency without decreasing elements that make them competitive

METHOD FOR DETERMINING THE MAXIMUM ARRANGEMENT FACTOR OF FOOTWEAR PARTS

By classic methodology, designing footwear is a very complex and laborious activity. That is because classic methodology requires many graphic executions using manual means, which consume a lot of the producer’s time. Moreover, the results of this classical methodology may contain many inaccuracies with the most unpleasant consequences for the footwear producer. Thus, the costumer that buys a footwear product by taking into consideration the characteristics written on the product (size, width) can notice after a period that the product has flaws because of the inadequate design. In order to avoid this kind of situations, the strictest scientific criteria must be followed when one designs a footwear product. The decisive step in this way has been made some time ago, when, as a result of powerful technical development and massive implementation of electronical calculus systems and informatics, This paper presents a product software for determining all possible arrangements of a footwear product’s reference points, in order to automatically acquire the maximum arrangement factor. The user multiplies the pattern in order to find the economic arrangement for the reference points. In this purpose, the user must probe few arrangement variants, in the translation and rotate-translation system. The same process is used in establishing the arrangement factor for the two points of reference of the designed footwear product. After probing several variants of arrangement in the translation and rotation and translation systems, the maximum arrangement factors are chosen. This allows the user to estimate the material wastes

ADOBE ILLUSTRATOR AND GIMP - AN APPROACH TO GARMENT DESIGN

Designing clothes has become easier with the use of clothing design software. One of the most popular and basic software made for garments design is Adobe Illustrator. It enables designers and small to medium businesses to create clothing designs with easy access to all assets, including images, colors, brushes, and type styles. While Illustrator has all the necessary elements and features that are ideal for creating designer clothing, GIMP provides basic set of tools for image editing. When used in combination with one another, these two programs provide just about all the tools an apparel designer needs to draw fashion design sketches, technical flat sketches, CAD presentations, graphic artworks, design embroideries etc. In this paper we show how to use the instruments of those two software in order to draw a woman jacket’s garments components and to fill with texture the jacket created. By utilizing Illustrator’s Symbol we created libraries of jacket components (puller zipper, label), then the brushes to design the zipper detail. Finally, by a drag and drop we added the zipper, the zipper puller and the label. GIMP gave us access to precise fabric textures which make our output so realistic that you can almost touch the fabric