Wrapped up for safe keeping: 'wrapping' customs in Early Iron Age Europe

During the Early Iron Age (first half of the first millennium BC) central and southern Europe sees the development of stratified societies, manifested among other things in sumptuous burials of the elite members of society. These so-called princely burials provide important information regarding ancient funerary rituals and beliefs in afterlife. One of the curious phenomena documented in these assemblages is the practice of wrapping in textiles and skins not only the body of the deceased, whether inhumed or cremated, but also various burial goods. The practice is well exemplified by the evidence from the princely burial at Hochdorf, in Germany, where all objects were carefully wrapped in cloth. It is unclear whether this phenomenon had a ritual significance in funerary context or represents a regular practice of safekeeping of precious, particularly metal objects. The finds indicate that such wrapping was common throughout Italy, Greece and the Alpine area, suggesting that the practice had a wide, pan-European significance. The paper examines the different ways of wrapping and their possible meaning

The first plant bast fibre technology: a new method for identifying splicing in archaeological textiles

Recent research into plant bast fibre technology points to a Neolithic European tradition of working fibres into threads by splicing, rather than draft spinning. The major issue now is the ability of textile specialists and archaeobotanists to distinguish the technology of splicing from draft spun fibres. This paper defines the major types of splicing and proposes a method to observe, identify and interpret spliced thread technology. The identification of spliced yarns is evaluated through the examination of textiles from Europe, Egypt and the Near East. Through the application of this method we propose that the switch from splicing to draft spinning plant fibres occurred much later than previously thought. The ramifications of this shift in plant processing have profound implications for understanding the chaîne opératoire of this ubiquitous and time-consuming technology, which have to be factored into social and economic reconstructions of the past.ER

Textile technology in Nepal in the 5th-7th centuries CE: the case of Samdzong

The first results of textile and dye analyses of cloth remains recovered in Samdzong, Upper Mustang, Nepal, are presented. The site consists of ten shaft tombs, dated between the 400-650 CE, cut into a high cliff face at an elevation of 4000 m asl. The dry climate and high altitude favoured the exceptional preservation of organic materials. One of the objects recovered from the elite Samdzong 5 tomb complex is composed of wool fabrics to which copper, glass and cloth beads are attached and probably constitutes the remains of a complex decorative headwear, which may have been attached to a gold/silver mask. SEM was used to identify the fibre sources of the textiles, which are all of animal nature. Two of the textiles are made of degummed silk. There is no evidence for local silk production suggesting that Samdzong was inserted into the long-distance trade network of the Silk Road. HPLC-DAD analysis permitted identification of a variety of organic dyes, including Indian lac, munjeet, turmeric and knotweed/indigo, while cinnabar was identified through micro Raman spectrometry. The results indicate that locally produced materials were used in combination with those likely imported from afar, including China and India.The research leading to these results has received funding from the European Research Council under the European Union's Seventh Framework Programme (FP/2007-2013-312603). Excavations at Samdzong have been supported by grants to Aldenderfer from the National Geographic Society and the Henry Luce Foundation. Many thanks to Alexia Coudray and Marie-Christine Maquoi for their dedicated work in the KIK/IRPA laboratory.This is the final version of the article. It first appeared from Taylor & Francis via http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/20548923.2015.111042

Tracing Textile Cultures of Italy and Greece in the early first millennium BC

Archaeological textiles are relatively rare finds in Mediterranean Europe, but many fragments survive in a mineralised form. Recent analysis of Iron Age textiles from Italy and Greece indicates that, despite the use of similar textile technologies at this time, Italy shared the textile culture of Central Europe, while Greece largely followed the Near Eastern traditions of textile production. This research greatly expands our current understanding of the regional circulation of textile technological knowledge and the role of textiles in ancient societies.The research leading to these results has received funding from the European Research Council under the European Union's Seventh Framework Programme (FP/2007-2013-312603)

Wool Textiles and Archaeometry: Testing Reliability of Archaeological Wool Fibre Diameter

Characterisations of ancient sheep breeds and wool types as well as theories about wool fibre processing have become integral parts of textile archaeology. The studies are based on statistical calculations of measurements of wool fibre diameters and reveal characteristics of the yarns that can be attributed to the available raw wool and to the production methods of the people creating the textiles. The types of microscopes used for the analyses have varied through the years and presently digital images from either scanning electron microscopy (SEM) or transmitted light microscopy (TLM) are the preferred methods for data collection. The advantage of SEM is the good depth of field at high magnification while TLM is simpler to use and more readily available. Several classification systems have been developed to facilitate the interpretation of the results. In this paper the comparability of the results from these two methods and from the use of different magnifications in general is examined based on the analyses of a large number of the Danish prehistoric textiles. The results do not indicate superiority of one microscope type in favour of another. Rather, they reveal differences in the calculations that can be ascribed to the diversity of the fibres in the individual yarns as well as to the methodology and the magnification level.The research leading to these results was funded by the Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research [DNRF64], the National Museum of Denmark, the European Commission’s Marie Curie Actions under the European Union’s Seventh Framework Programme [FP7-PEOPLE-IEF-2008-236263], and the European Research Council under the European Union’s Seventh Framework Programme [FP/2007-2013-312603]

Classical textile remains in the British Museum Collection

Cloth remains from 1st millennium BC Greece are relatively rare. The majority of the surviving fragments have been preserved in a mineralised state on metal objects. Re-examination of metal and other artefacts in museum collections is increasingly adding to the existing textile corpus. Recently, the remains of two new textile fragments were identified on finds presented to the British Museum by the British Salonica Force in 1919. The poster presents the textiles and discusses their significance within the larger corpus of extant classical Greek textiles

The Central Timna Valley Project: 5 Years of Ongoing Textile Research

In its initial five years of activity the Central Timna Valley Project has dedicated its efforts to the excavation of several Late Bronze and Iron Age sites (13th-9th centuries BC) in the southern Arabah Valley of Israel (fig. 1).1 The project, headed by Erez Ben-Yosef of Tel Aviv University, explores the ancient exploitation of copper ores at Timna; these were utilised for the production of copper ingots that were traded throughout the southern Levant and possibly the greater Mediterranean region. It is within the strata of several newly excavated sites that a few hundred individual textile, cordage and rope fragments were uncovered

'Pandora’s box': A textile tool set from a Scythian burial in Ukraine

Textile tools made of perishable materials such as wood are extremely rare in the archaeological contexts of ancient Mediterranean, but numerous complete and fragmentary boxes containing textile tools and other materials have been found in Scythian burials of the 5th-4th centuries BC in southern Ukraine. The boxes are found exclusively in female burials and are clearly of Hellenic craftsmanship. The paper presents preliminary observations about a 4th century BC female burial 2 from Kurgan 5 at Bulgakovo, which was accompanied by a wooden box containing three wooden distaffs, a spindle whorl made of an amphora fragment, a wooden comb and two smaller wooden boxes, one of which stored a set of at least 19 wooden weaving tablets with four holes each, an iron needle and some yarn

At the Crossroads of Textile Cultures: Textile Production and Use at the South Italian Archaic Site of Ripacandida

Textiles are seldom included within socioeconomic interpretative frameworks of the ancient northern Mediterranean region, although several recent studies have begun to address this lacuna. The Archaic/Classical site of Ripacandida (Basilicata), located in the southern Apennines, has yielded both textiles and textile tools, providing an unprecedented opportunity to examine textile production and use at an indigenous south Italian site. This study presents the results of the complementary analyses of mineralised textile remains and textile tools (spindle whorls and loom weights) found in the cemetery of Ripacandida. The unusual combination of the Greek textile weave (weft-faced tabby) and a characteristic Italic tablet-woven border in two fragments attests to a mixed textile culture. The (to date) unique situation at Ripacandida enables us to reflect on the role of textiles in cultural contact contexts: the way in which textile cultures and their elements met and were mixed or kept separate in south Italy and beyond; the extent to which textile production was socially and economically embedded in a small indigenous community of south Italy; and the role of textiles and textile production as an expression of indigenous–Greek interaction.ER

Dressing the sacrifice: Textiles, textile production and the sacrificial economy at Casas del Turuñuelo in fifth-century BC Iberia

AbstractERC Starting Gran