14 research outputs found

    ‘‘Feather Muffs of all Colours’: Fashion, Patriotism, and the Natural World in Eighteenth-Century Britain'

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    open access articleThe end of the Seven Years’ War (1763) and the acquisition of the fur trade in Canada had an unexpected consequence in British fashion. Despite the increased access to and availability of furs by British furriers, the newspapers noted with disgust that, under the influence of French milliners who had already adapted to their loss of fur supplies, British women of fashion had no taste for furs, only for feathers. The feather muff became the target of the press’s vitriol, an unpatriotic symbol of French sycophantism that was designed to undermine Britain’s victory for which the brave General Wolfe fell. Despite the weighted and charged connotations surrounding the feather muff, its position in eighteenth-century dress and fashion has never before been explored in depth. This article aims to amend that oversight and contextualise the feather muff’s problematic status alongside its material lifecycle and understand the muff as an accessory that could bridge not only the Channel and the globe, but also the disparate worlds of fashion and natural history. Beginning with its notoriously charged appearance in the early 1760s, this article examines the lifecycle of the feather muff in mid eighteenth-century Britain. It first explores the feather muff’s perception in the press as a sartorial French intruder in British fashion. It then establishes how the feather muff was a product of the feather trade, exploring its make and manufacture. Finally, considering the symbolic and emblematic nature of the feather, it places the feather muff within wider narratives of British feather culture, female sociability, and the natural world

    Subverting Time: The Banyan, Temporality, and Graphic Satire

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    The file attached to this record is the author's final peer reviewed version. The Publisher's final version can be found by following the DOI link.This article examines men's dressing gowns, known as banyans, and their relation to time by examining the banyan's representation in two contrasting media. Within painted portraiture, the banyan is portrayed as timeless and immortal sartorial companion to the gentleman and scholar. However, as the body of this article addresses, within graphic satire, the banyan is represented as an accomplice to men's misuse of time. By probing the banyan's satirical representation in relation to daily life, the article exposes how the banyan was seen to subvert the temporal daily norms and rhythms of Britain's dominant sex

    Impacts of Western Coal, Oil Shale, and Tar Sands Development on Aquatic Environmental Quality: A Technical Information Matrix; Volume 1 Introduction and Instructions

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    Introduction: The Upper Colorado River Basin contains vast deposits of coal, oil shale, and tar sands, which could undergo extensive development should oil prices rise or an international situation restrict oil imports. Naturally, the prospect of development of these alternative fossil fuels resources has led to concern over how extraction and conversion activities will impact environmental quality. A thorough understanding of the nature and magnitude of the resulting envionemental impacts is a necessary prerequisite, if the costs and risks of such activites are to be weighed against the economic benefits. When we set out to evaluated these costs and risks, it soon became obvious that the voluminous literature in this area is difficult to access, often repetitive, and not well integrated into state-of-the-art reviews. This led us to realize the need to categorize and collate the results of such energy-related impact research in a way that would go beyond the compilation of a bibliography, or even keyworking relevant citations. The form of presentation that we eventually selected was the technical information matrix presented in this report. This matrix consists of information on the impacts of coal mining and conversion, oil shale mining and retoring, and tar sands development on four aspects of aquatic environmental quality: surface water and groundwater chemsitry, aquatic ecology, and aquifer modification. The report consists of three parts. This introductory volume contains instruction for use of the technical information matrix, a glossary, and sources of data on energy development and environmental impacts. Two additional looseleaf volumes contain the coal (II), and oil sahel and tar sands matrices (III), respectively, along with the corresponding matrix references and a bibliography of general (summary or overview) references. Each matrix volume also includes a list of symbols and abbreviations used in the matrix. Qualitatively, information on the three categories of fossil fuel development differs principally in amount, type, and geographical specificity. Coal extraction is a well-studied process in the East, where acid mine drainage and metal toxicity are well documented. In the West, surface mining of vast arid and semiarid tracts, as well as generally more alkaline mine drainage, has been less thoroughly studied. Nonetheless, commercial scale operations have been in place for a sufficiently long period, even in the West, to ahve produced a reasonably large data base. Coal conversion processes, although new, have also reached the commercial scale, and information is becoming relatively abundant. Conversely, environmental information is not generally availabel for the Scottish and Russian oil shale industries, or for the primitive industry in the Colorado Basin earlier in the century, and the present day oil shale industry in the west is insufficiently developed to have produced commerical scale case studies. Most information at present comes from pilot or semi-works facilities, and the impacts of a full-scale development over a 20-30 year project life are difficult to predict. Although Alberta, Canada, has a well developed tar sands industry, site specific information on tar sands development in the Colorado Basin is lacking. There are several areas of ommission in the coverage of sources of fossil fuel impact on aquatic environmental quality. Petroleum drilling, whose principal impacts in the Colorado Basin are related to interconnection of saline with good quality aquifers, creation of saline surface springs during exploration and illegal brine disposal practices has been omitted. Also, we have not pursued the effects of acid (e.g., Sox) base (e.g., NH3) or volatile metal (e.g., Hg) emissions to the atmosphere and their subsequent effects on downwind ecosystems when they are returned by precipitation or dry deposition. We have generally omitted the toxicological literature relating to occupational exposure (e.g., skin painting tests, etc.), as well as the impacts of water withdrawals on fish habitat through reduction of natural instream flows. In the latter cases such impacts require site specific consideration of hydrology and channel morphology. The more than 1300 citations in these matrices were gathered from a wide variety of refereed journals, symposium proceedings, government documents, abstracting services, and personal communications with researchers. The papers cited emphasize the period 1970-1981. Greatest emphasis was placed on the more recent literature, but late 1981 papers are probably underrepresented. There is also little doubt that we have failed to include some valuable material found in project reports, oral presentations, masters these, disserations, and similar sources. Certainly some citations were not optimally summarized or categorized, particularly when it was necessary to work from an abstract or summary. Hopefully, such exclusions or poor representations will not result in loss of excessive information or unduly mislead the users. We plan to update the matrix periodically, supplementing new information found with the searching techniques developed thus far and especially with information supplied by users. Updates will be in the form of looseleaf pages to be added to or substituted in Volumes I and II, and will be published as frequently as deemed necessary to cover developments in the subject areas. We would very much appreciate receiving copies (or summaries) of pertinent reports from the users of this matrix, together with corrections or improvements in the content or categorization of material presently in the matrix. There should be sent to: F.J. Post (coal) or Jay Messer (oil shale and tar sands) Utah Water Research Laboratory UMC 82 Utah State University Logan, UT 84322 They will be gratefully included in the next update

    Assessment of Emergency Medicine Resident Performance in an Adult Simulation Using a Multisource Feedback Approach.

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    Introduction: The Accreditation Council for Graduate Medical Education (ACGME) specifically notes multisource feedback (MSF) as a recommended means of resident assessment in the emergency medicine (EM) Milestones. High-fidelity simulation is an environment wherein residents can receive MSF from various types of healthcare professionals. Previously, the Queen\u27s Simulation Assessment Tool (QSAT) has been validated for faculty to assess residents in five categories: assessment; diagnostic actions; therapeutic actions; interpersonal communication, and overall assessment. We sought to determine whether the QSAT could be used to provide MSF using a standardized simulation case. Methods: Prospectively after institutional review board approval, residents from a dual ACGME/osteopathic-approved postgraduate years (PGY) 1-4 EM residency were consented for participation. We developed a standardized resuscitation after overdose case with specific 1-5 Likert anchors used by the QSAT. A PGY 2-4 resident participated in the role of team leader, who completed a QSAT as self-assessment. The team consisted of a PGY-1 peer, an emergency medical services (EMS) provider, and a nurse. Two core faculty were present to administer the simulation case and assess. Demographics were gathered from all participants completing QSATs. We analyzed QSATs by each category and on cumulative score. Hypothesis testing was performed using intraclass correlation coefficients (ICC), with 95% confidence intervals. Interpretation of ICC results was based on previously published definitions. Results: We enrolled 34 team leader residents along with 34 nurses. A single PGY-1, a single EMS provider and two faculty were also enrolled. Faculty provided higher cumulative QSAT scores than the other sources of MSF. QSAT scores did not increase with team leader PGY level. ICC for inter-rater reliability for all sources of MSF was 0.754 (0.572-0.867). Removing the self-evaluation scores increased inter-rater reliability to 0.838 (0.733-0.910). There was lesser agreement between faculty and nurse evaluations than from the EMS or peer evaluation. Conclusion: In this single-site cohort using an internally developed simulation case, the QSAT provided MSF with excellent reliability. Self-assessment decreases the reliability of the MSF, and our data suggest self-assessment should not be a component of MSF. Use of the QSAT for MSF may be considered as a source of data for clinical competency committees

    TĂȘtes to tails: eighteenth-century underwear and accessories in Britain and Colonial America

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    Over the past thirty years, the study of dress has flourished as a field of interdisciplinary enquiry, emerging from consumer studies by economic historians and artefact-based research. More recent scholarship has addressed clothing in terms of material culture and as a marker of identity, adopting approaches from anthropology, cultural studies, history of art, material culture studies and history. However, despite these advances in understandings of eighteenth-century dress, the social and cultural consequence of many garments has yet to be fully teased out. This thesis aims to amend that oversight and shed light on the significance of underwear and accessories in Britain and, to a lesser extent, colonial America from the period of 1666 to 1819. Five garments, each stemming from a different region of the body, form the chapters of this thesis: banyans, cork rumps, calashes, muffs, and stays. As structural undergarments, accessories and undress, these objects were auxiliary to the main garments of eighteenth-century dress, a man’s three-piece suit and woman’s mantua or polonaise gown. However, they were fashionable necessities, required to give the essential shape to the silhouette, complete an ensemble, or sartorially facilitate the expression of politeness and sociability. This discussion looks beyond these items as articles of fashion to establish their cultural currency through the study, where possible, of surviving material artefacts and their visual and discursive representations in painted portraiture, graphic satire, archival manuscripts, and published newspapers and magazines. Marrying aspects of artefact-based approaches with visual analysis exposes the discourses between the material artefacts and their representational constructions. First, the thesis discusses the banyan’s relation to time, exposing it as an agent of time that thwarted the chrononormative paths of the male sex. Issues of evidence, or the lack thereof, are addressed in Chapter Two, through an examination of the cork rump in satirical prints. The third chapter charts the material, spatial and social mobility of the calash and its wearer. Addressing embroidered and satin print silk muffs, the fourth chapter positions the silk muff as a haptic receptacle of expression, as well as portable canvas of female art and patronage. The final chapter examines the divergent associations of the stay, both as a mediator of gender normativity, and as an iconographic vessel of gender, class and national anxiety. Through the close analysis of these previously overlooked articles of dress, this thesis reveals the charged and weighted associations embedded within and ascribed to underwear and accessories in the long eighteenth century

    New pic nic polka /

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    In bound volumes: Copyright Deposits 1820-186

    What’s up with Bridgerton’s wardrobe?

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    Created by American costume designer Ellen Mirojnick, the costumes of Netflix hit series Bridgerton (of which there were some 7,500 pieces) unapologetically play with notions of historical accuracy. Utilising brash colours, almost absurdly high waistlines, zip fastenings, modern fabrics and machine embroidery, they also deviate from social norms and etiquette of the time. The series has attracted fierce criticism among some viewers surrounding the legitimacy of its wardrobe. This week’s panel discussed the good, the bad, and the ridiculous when it comes to representing historic underwear in popular culture
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