A new performance threshold in sport climbing: A change in how climbing trainers work?

Objectives: Previous research has shown that the finger flexor's occlusion threshold (OT) could be different among sport climbers when expressed as a percentage of their maximum finger force (OT%), and that there is no association between the OT% and the climberś ability level. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the possible association between the relative finger force applied at the OT% (rff-OT%) and climbing ability level. Equipment and methods: WWe approximated the finger flexor's OT of 34 sport climbers by finger hang endurance test analyses at different intensities between 35% and 85% of their individual maximum finger force on a previously individually adapted edge depth, and we valued their rff-OT% as the relative force they could perform at that intensity. Results: We found a high correlation between the rff-OT% and climbing ability in elite climbers. These findings suggest that having an OT at the highest possible percentage is critical, in addition to having a high relative finger force, as this would enable climbers to express relative force at a wider range of intensities with favorable metabolic conditions

Swimming training repercussion on metabolic and structural bone development; benefits of the incorporation of whole body vibration or pilometric training; the RENACIMIENTO project

Introduction: Enviromental factors such as exercise participation and nutrition have often been linked to bone improvements. However, not all sports have the same effects, being non-osteogenic sports such as swimming defined as negative or neutral sports to practice regarding bone mass by some authors, similarly exercise-diet interaction in especific groups is still not clear. Objective: To present the methodology of the RENACIMENTO project that aims to evaluate body composition and more specifically bone mass by several techniques in adolescent swimmers and to observe the effects and perdurability of whole body vibration (WBV) and jumping intervention (JIN) on body composition and fitness on this population and explore posible diet interactions. Design: Randomized controlled trial. Methods: 78 swimmers (12-17 y) and 26 sex- and age-matched controls will participate in this study. Dual energy X-ray, peripheral Quantitative Computed Tomography, Quantitative Ultrasound, Bioelectrical Impedance Analysis, and anthropometry measurements will be performed in order to evaluate body composition. Physical activity, nutrition, pubertal development and socio-economical status may act as confounders of body composition and therefore will also be registered. Several fitness factors regarding strength, endurance, performance and others will also be registered to evaluate differences with controls and act as confounders. A 7-month WBV therapy will be performed by 26 swimmers consisting of a training of 15 minutes 3 times per week. An 8 month JIM will also be performed by 26 swimmers 3 times per week. The remaining 26 swimmers will continue their normal swimming training. Four evaluations will be performed, the first one in order to describe differences between swimmers and controls. The second one to describe the effects of the interventions and the third and fourth evaluations to describe the perdurability of the effects of the WBV and JIN. Conclusion: The RENACIMIENTO project will allow to answer several questions regarding body composition, fitness, bone mass and interaction with diet of adolescent swimmers, describe swimming as a positive, negative or neutral sport to practice regarding these parameters and elucidate the effects and perdurability of WBV and JIM on body composition

Is Bone Tissue Really Affected by Swimming? A Systematic Review

BACKGROUND: Swimming, a sport practiced in hypogravity, has sometimes been associated with decreased bone mass. AIM: This systematic review aims to summarize and update present knowledge about the effects of swimming on bone mass, structure and metabolism in order to ascertain the effects of this sport on bone tissue. METHODS: A literature search was conducted up to April 2013. A total of 64 studies focusing on swimmers bone mass, structure and metabolism met the inclusion criteria and were included in the review. RESULTS: It has been generally observed that swimmers present lower bone mineral density than athletes who practise high impact sports and similar values when compared to sedentary controls. However, swimmers have a higher bone turnover than controls resulting in a different structure which in turn results in higher resistance to fracture indexes. Nevertheless, swimming may become highly beneficial regarding bone mass in later stages of life. CONCLUSION: Swimming does not seem to negatively affect bone mass, although it may not be one of the best sports to be practised in order to increase this parameter, due to the hypogravity and lack of impact characteristic of this sport. Most of the studies included in this review showed similar bone mineral density values in swimmers and sedentary controls. However, swimmers present a higher bone turnover than sedentary controls that may result in a stronger structure and consequently in a stronger bone

Anthropometric Characteristics, Body Composition and Somatotype of Elite Pan-American Race Walking 20K

The anthropometric and somatotype evaluation is an essential tool in the selection and control of high-performance athletes. The aim of this study was to describe the somatotype and body composition of male elite race walkers (20 k modality), and its relationship with athletic performance. Twenty-four race walkers participated in this study. The sample was divided into two groups: the race walkers with the best performance (upper 25 percentile; n=7) and the second group (n=17) that corresponds to the rest of the participants. Weight (kg), height (cm), seven skinfolds, two diameters and five perimeters were measured. Body fat percentage (BF%) were estimated with the Yuhasz formula, and the somatotype was used applying the Heath-Carter method. The best performing athletes were taller (178.3 +/- 4.4 cm vs. 173.7 +/- 5.6 cm, p<0.05) and showed a greater ectomorphic component (p<0.05) than the rest of the participants. The somatotype of the best performance athletes was 2.2-2.8-4.1 against the 2.5-3.8-2.9 of the lowest performing athletes. The average time (hours, minute, seconds) of execution of the race in athletes of better performances was 1: 22:40, in comparison with the athletes of lower performances with 1: 32: 41 (p<0.02). The ectomorphic component and height are morphological characteristics that can determine athletic performance of race walkers. It is suggested to consider these factors in the selection of the race walkers. La evaluación antropométrica y del somatotipo es una importante herramienta en la selección y control de los atletas de alto rendimiento. El objetivo de este estudio fue describir el somatotipo y composición corporal de hombres marchistas olímpicos, modalidad 20 k, y su relación con el rendimiento atlético. Veinticuatro atletas de marcha participaron en este estudio. La muestra fue dividida en dos grupos: los marchistas de mejores rendimientos p25 superior (n=7) y el segundo grupo (n=17) que corresponde al resto de los participantes. Se registró el peso (kg), talla (cm), siete pliegues cutáneos, dos diámetros y cinco perímetros. Se estimó el porcentaje de grasa corporal (%GC) con la fórmula de Yuhasz y se describió el somatotipo utilizando el método de Heath-Carter. Se reporta una mayor altura en los atletas de mejor rendimiento (178,3±4,4 cm vs. 173,7±5,6 cm; p<0,05) y mayor componente ectomorfico (p<0,05) que el resto de los participantes. El somatotipo de los atletas de mejor rendimiento fue de 2.2-2.8-4.1 frente al 2.5-3.8-2.9 de los atletas de menor rendimiento. El tiempo promedio (hora, minuto, segundo) de ejecución de la carrera en atletas de mejores rendimientos fue de 1:22:40, en comparación con los atletas de menores rendimientos con 1:32:41 (p <0,02). El componente ectomórfico y altura serian características morfológicas que pueden determinar el rendimiento deportivo de atletas de marcha. Se sugiere considerar estos factores en la selección de los marchistas olímpicos

Bone strength index at Tibia and standing broad jump in adolescent swimmers

Measurement of broad jump is a simple, economical and non-invasive test that provides valuable information on muscular strength and power in youth lower limbs,and has been shown to be related to bone health..

Effects of multicomponent training and detraining on the fitness of older adults with or at risk of frailty: results of a 10-month quasi-experimental study

The aims of this study were (1) to analyse the effects of a 6-month multicomponent training (MCT) on the physical fitness of older adults with or at risk of frailty; (2) to study the consequences of a 4-month detraining period; (3) to analyse the influence of frailty status on the training and detraining adaptations. A total of 102 robust, frail and prefrail older adults (80.1 ± 6.1 y) were divided into an intervention (TRAIN) and control group (CON). The TRAIN performed a 6-month MCT, while the CON continued with their usual lifestyle. Fitness assessment was mainly based on the Senior Fitness Test. Four evaluations were carried out; at baseline, and at 3, 6 and 10 months from baseline. Linear mixed models were performed to analyse group by time interactions and to compare differences in changes within groups between different time points. After 6-month MCT, TRAIN showed greater improvements for all fitness variables (group effects p < 0.05, except for flexibility) when compared to the CON. During the 4-month detraining period, TRAIN significantly decreased their balance, upper-limb flexibility and upper and lower-limb strength (all p < 0.05). CON only decreased upper-limb flexibility. When accounting for frailty status in the TRAIN, the frail-prefrail showed lower adaptations to the training and were more affected by detraining than the robust. The presented MCT is a good strategy to improve fitness in this population, but its positive effects are limited in time. It is, therefore, critical to avoid detraining periods

Plyometric exercise and bone health in children and adolescents: a systematic review

Background: Many jumping interventions have been performed in children and adolescents in order to improve bone-related variables and thus, ensure a healthy bone development during these periods and later in life. This systematic review aims to summarize and update present knowledge regarding the effects that jumping interventions may have on bone mass, structure and metabolism in order to ascertain the efficacy and durability (duration of the effects caused by the intervention) of the interventions. Methods: Identification of studies was performed by searching in the database MEDLINE/PubMed and SportDiscus. Additional studies were identified by contacting clinical experts and searching bibliographies and abstracts. Search terms included “bone and bones”, “jump*”, “weight-bearing”, “resistance training” and “school intervention”. The search was conducted up to October 2014. Only studies that had performed a specific jumping intervention in under 18-year olds and had measured bone mass were included. Independent extraction of articles was done by 2 authors using predefined data fields. Results: A total of 26 studies were included in this review. Twenty-four studies found positive results as subjects included in the intervention groups showed higher bone mineral density, bone mineral content and bone structure improvements than controls. Only two studies found no effects on bone mass after a 10-week and 9-month intervention. Moreover, those studies that evaluated the durability of the effects found that some of the increases in the intervention groups were maintained after several years. Conclusion: Jumping interventions during childhood and adolescence improve bone mineral content, density and structural properties without side effects. These type of interventions should be therefore implemented when possible in order to increase bone mass in early stages of life, which may have a direct preventive effect on bone diseases like osteoporosis later in life

Is Playing Soccer More Osteogenic for Females Before the Pubertal Spurt?

The aims of this study were to assess bone mass in children and adolescent soccer players and to evaluate the influence of both gender and pubertal status on bone mass. A total of 110 soccer players (75 males / 35 females; 12.73 ± 0.65 / 12.76 ± 0.59 years) participated in this cross-sectional study. They were divided into two groups according to their pubertal status. Bone and lean masses were measured with Dual-energy X-ray Absorptiometry. An independent t-test and an adjusted by subtotal lean and training experience multivariate analysis of covariance were used to analyse the differences in bone mass values between genders and maturity status. Female soccer players presented higher bone mass values than their male counterparts in most of the measured weight-bearing sites. Moreover, when stratifying by pubertal status, peripubertal and postpubertal females had higher subtotal body and lumbar spine bone mass than males. Comparing between pubertal status groups before adjustment, both male and female postpubertal players showed higher bone mass than their pubertal counterparts. After adjusting, these differences disappeared and, in fact results were inverted as bone mass at the femoral neck was higher in both male and female peripubertal soccer players than in postpubertal players. Bone mass seems to be more intensely stimulated by playing soccer in female than male players, particularly in the lumbar spine. The results of peripubertal players showing higher bone mass at the femoral neck after adjusting suggest that playing soccer during the peripubertal stage could be an effective activity to achieve optimal bone mass values