Verslag van door het NIOZ uitgevoerde ²¹⁰Po en ²¹⁰Pb metingen in de Nederlandse kustwateren, de Nieuwe Waterweg, het Noordzeekanaal en de Westerschelde

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Consideration of the Mechanisms for Tidal Bore Formation in an Idealized Planform Geometry

A tidal bore is a positive wave traveling upstream along the estuary of a river, generated by a relatively rapid rise of the tide, often enhanced by the funneling shape of the estuary. The swell produced by the tide grows and its front steepens as the flooding tide advances inland, promoting the formation of a sharp front wave, i.e., the tidal bore. Because of the many mechanisms and conditions involved in the process, it is difficult to formulate an effective criterion to predict the bore formation. In this preliminary analysis, aimed at bringing out the main processes and parameters that control tidal bore formation, the degrees of freedom of the problem are largely reduced by considering a rectangular channel of constant width with uniform flow, forced downstream by rising the water level at a constant rate. The framework used in this study is extremely simple, yet the problem is still complex and the solution is far from being trivial. From the results of numerical simulations, three distinctive behaviors emerged related to conditions in which a tidal bore forms, a tidal bore does not form, and a weak bore forms; the latter has a weakly steep front and after the bore formed it rapidly vanishes. Based on these behaviors, some criteria to predict the bore formation are proposed and discussed. The more effective criterion, suitably rearranged, is checked against data from real estuaries and the predictions are found to compare favorably with the available data

Strongly aligned coastal boulders on Ko Larn island (Thailand): a proxy for past typhoon-driven high-energy wave events in the Bay of Bangkok

© 2019 Institute of Australian Geographers Recent studies of elevated carbonate boulder deposits on several rock islands near Bangkok have indicated that Thailand\u27s capital city may not be as protected from typhoon strikes as previously thought. Here, new evidence is presented for past high-energy wave (HEW) events in the form of statistically significant patterns of boulder alignment on exposed rocky shorelines of Ko Larn island. The long-axis orientations of 193 coastal sandstone boulders were analysed across four study sites. Several scenarios for the unimodal, bimodal, and polymodal patterns found can be envisaged. Either the most recent HEW event was the strongest—in which case most clasts were rearranged unimodally (one observation site), or the strongest HEW event was earlier and subsequent weaker ones realigned only smaller boulders to produce bimodal or polymodal patterns (three observation sites). Inferred northeastward or eastward onshore flow directions are consistent with palaeo-typhoons penetrating into the Bay of Bangkok on northwestward curving tracks. The calculated minimum flow velocities required to transport all sampled boulders are 5.5–7.8 m s−1, similar to other findings throughout the Asia-Pacific region. It was observed that the absence of a fitted boulder geomorphology lends credence to the earlier proposed time frame of 150–200 years between typhoon phases in the upper Gulf of Thailand. The current work has provided additional insights into the characteristics of past HEW events that have a possibility of reoccurring again at some time in the future. Our findings continue to raise awareness for a reassessment of the risks of coastal hazards for the Chao Phraya River delta and densely populated Bangkok, for which storm surge modelling should be an urgent priority, so as to give better perceptions on how typhoon-driven marine incursion would impact the city

Wave attenuation at a salt marsh margin: A case study of an exposed coast on the Yangtze estuary

To quantify wave attenuation by (introduced) Spartina alterniflora vegetation at an exposed macrotidal coast in the Yangtze Estuary, China, wave parameters and water depth were measured during 13 consecutive tides at nine locations ranging from 10 m seaward to 50 m landward of the low marsh edge. During this period, the incident wave height ranged from <0.1 to 1.5 m, the maximum of which is much higher than observed in other marsh areas around the world. Our measurements and calculations showed that the wave attenuation rate per unit distance was 1 to 2 magnitudes higher over the marsh than over an adjacent mudflat. Although the elevation gradient of the marsh margin was significantly higher than that of the adjacent mudflat, more than 80% of wave attenuation was ascribed to the presence of vegetation, suggesting that shoaling effects were of minor importance. On average, waves reaching the marsh were eliminated over a distance of similar to 80 m, although a marsh distance of >= 100 m was needed before the maximum height waves were fully attenuated during high tides. These attenuation distances were longer than those previously found in American salt marshes, mainly due to the macrotidal and exposed conditions at the present site. The ratio of water depth to plant height showed an inverse correlation with wave attenuation rate, indicating that plant height is a crucial factor determining the efficiency of wave attenuation. Consequently, the tall shoots of the introduced S. alterniflora makes this species much more efficient at attenuating waves than the shorter, native pioneer species in the Yangtze Estuary, and should therefore be considered as a factor in coastal management during the present era of sea-level rise and global change. We also found that wave attenuation across the salt marsh can be predicted using published models when a suitable coefficient is incorporated to account for drag, which varies in place and time due to differences in plant characteristics and abiotic conditions (i.e., bed gradient, initial water depth, and wave action).