Oxygen Recovery Kinetics in the Forearm Flexors of Multiple Ability Groups of Rock Climbers

Fryer, SM, Stoner, L, Dickson, TG, Draper, SB, McCluskey, MJ, Hughes, JD, How, SC, and Draper, N. Oxygen recovery kinetics in the forearm flexors of multiple ability groups of rock climbers. J Strength Cond Res 29(6): 1633-1639, 2015-The purpose of this study was to determine muscle tissue oxidative capacity and recovery in intermediate, advanced, and elite rock climbers. Forty-four male participants performed (a) sustained and (b) intermittent contractions at 40% of maximal volitional contraction (MVC) on a sport-specific fingerboard until volitional fatigue. Near-infrared spectroscopy was used to assess muscle tissue oxygenation during both the exercise and the 5-minutes passive recovery period, in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) and flexor carpi radialis (FCR). During the sustained contraction only, muscle tissue deoxygenation (O2 debt) in the FDP and FCR was significantly greater in elite climbers compared with the control, intermediate, and advanced groups (FDP: 32 vs. 15, 19, 22%; FCR: 19 vs. 11, 8, 15%, respectively). However, elite climbers had a significantly quicker time to half recovery (T1/2) than the control and intermediate groups in the FDP (8 vs. 95 and 47 seconds, respectively) and the FCR (7 vs. 30 and 97 seconds, respectively) because the O2% recovered per second being significantly greater (FDP: 4.2 vs. 0.7 and 0.3; FCR: 4.8 vs. 0.1 and 0.2, respectively). Furthermore, during the intermittent contraction, T1/2 in elite climbers was significantly quicker compared with the control and intermediate groups in the FDP (8 vs. 93 and 83 seconds, respectively) and FCR (16 vs. 76 and 50 seconds, respectively). Consequently, lower-level climbers should focus training on specific intermittent fatigue protocols. Competition or elite climbers should make use of appropriate rests on route to aid recovery and increase the chances of reaching the next hold

Reliability of oscillometric central blood pressures responses to lower limb resistance exercise

Background and aims: Although it is well known that resistance training (RT) is beneficial for patients suffering a variety of cardiovascular diseases, it remains underutilized as a rehabilitation tool as there is no reliable way to monitor the additional stress placed on the central organs. The current study aimed to determine between-day reliability of central haemodynamic indices determined using oscillometric pulse wave analysis (PWA) during progressive sub-maximal RT. Methods: Nineteen healthy young males were tested on 3 different mornings in a fasted state. Central hemodynamic variables including augmentation index (AIx), AIx normalized to a heart rate of 75 beats per minute (AIx@75), central systolic blood pressure (cSBP), forwards (Pf) and backwards (Pb) wave reflection, were determined at rest, as well as during leg extension RT at 10, 15 and 20% of maximal volitional contraction (MVC), and following 1 min and 5 min passive recovery. Results: During RT at 10, 15 and 20% MVC, the intraclass correlation coefficient (ICC) values for AIx@75 (0.76-0.9), cSBP (0.74-0.78), Pf (0.75-0.82) and Pb (0.75-0.83) exceeded the criteria (0.75) for excellent reliability. During 5 min recovery the ICC values for AIx@75 (0.87-0.87), cSBP (0.69-0.7), Pf (0.63-0.67) and Pb (0.63-0.66) indicated good to excellent reliability. Conclusions: Clinically meaningful changes in central hemodynamic indices can be obtained during resistance training using oscillometric PWA devices. This technology holds potential for advancing resistance training prescription guidelines for patients with overt cardiovascular diseases

Forearm oxygenation and blood flow kinetics during a sustained contraction in multiple ability groups of rock climbers

Currently, the physiological mechanisms that allow elite level climbers to maintain intense isometric contractions for prolonged periods of time are unknown. Furthermore, it is unclear whether blood flow or muscle oxidative capacity best governs performance. This study aimed to determine the haemodynamic kinetics of 2 forearm flexor muscles in 3 ability groups of rock climbers. Thirty-eight male participants performed a sustained contraction at 40% of maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) until volitional fatigue. Oxygen saturation and blood flow was assessed using near infrared spectroscopy and Doppler ultrasound. Compared to control, intermediate, and advanced groups, the elite climbers had a significantly (P < 0.05) higher strength-to-weight ratio (MVC/N), de-oxygenated the flexor digitorum profundus significantly (P < 0.05) more (32, 34.3, and 42.8 vs. 63% O2, respectively), and at a greater rate (0.32, 0.27, and 0.34 vs. 0.77 O2%·s−1, respectively). Furthermore, elite climbers de-oxygenated the flexor carpi radialis significantly (P < 0.05) more and at a greater rate than the intermediate group (36.5 vs. 14.6% O2 and 0.43 vs. 0.1O2%·s−1, respectively). However, there were no significant differences in total forearm ∆ blood flow. An increased MVC/N is not associated with greater blood flow occlusion in elite climbers; therefore, oxidative capacity may be more important for governing performance

Sports graduate capabilities and competencies: a comparison of graduate and employer perceptions in six EU countries

The graduate employment market faces ever-increasing socio-economic and political pressures. Higher Education Institutions and the sport sector in the EU have an important role in contributing to graduate employment. The aims of the study were: (1) to assess general perceptions of employability, and (2) to assess sports graduates’ and employers’ perceptions of specific capabilities and competencies in order to identify possible improvements for sports graduate employability programmes. A cross-sectional survey of sports graduates and employers was administered in six EU countries including the UK, France, Germany, Spain, Greece and the Czech Republic to assess graduate and employer perceptions. A graduate capabilities and competencies framework was devised to assess personal, interpersonal, cognitive, role-specific and generic skills. Responses were elicited from 1132 sports graduates and 327 employers. There was generally a wide difference of opinion between employers and sports graduates in terms of the importance and possession of a number of capabilities and competencies. There is a need for the Higher Education sector and employers to take responsibility in ensuring that work experience, work placement and volunteering opportunities are embedded in curricula and to ensure the fitness of purpose of what and how graduate capabilities and competencies are assessed

Effect of ability, ascent style, and route type on psychological and physiological markers in rock climbing

Rock climbing is thought to rely upon the interaction of various performance components, and has previously been described as a complex multi-faceted sport. It has been suggested that psychological aspects of performance, such as task perception and the interaction of resulting pre-climb anxieties, contribute greatly to the physiological responses and the overall performance during ascent. However, research which seeks to investigate both psychological and physiological responses during specific bouts of rock climbing are few in number. This thesis attempts to contribute to the novel yet limited body of field based psychophysological research relating to rock climbing. To this end, the studies contained within this thesis investigated psychological and physiological responses as a result of difficult on-sight rock climbing. Elaborating upon previous research, additonal factors which are thought to influence these responses were explored. More specifically, differences in responses between ability groups, style of ascent, and route type were investigated. In study one, differences in psychological and physiological responses with respect to ability level and ascent style were investigated, during a single on-sight ascent. Seventy-two climbers were split into ability groups defined as lower-grade, intermediate, advanced and elite based on self-reported on-sight grades (Ewbank) of ≤17, 18-20, 21-24 and ≥ 25 respectively. Each climber attempted an on-sight ascent of a designated test route set on an indoor artificial climbing wall. A separate test route was set for each ability group which targeted their self-reported ability with respect to best on-sight. Participants were randomly assigned to either a lead or top-rope ascent and climbers were not informed of their style of ascent until 15 min prior to climbing. Responses to the climbing task were measured pre, during, and post-climb using a number of psychological and physiological markers. In total fifty-two participants successfully completed their on-sight ascents, and data for successful ascents were analysed and compared. Pre-climb variables were considered together in order to investigate pre-climb state, more specifically levels of anxiety, prior to ascent. Results indicated that there were no significant differences for grouped pre-climb variables with respect to ascent style. These results suggest that irrespective of ascent style, successful climbers exhibited similar psychophysiological responses prior to attempting an on-sight ascent. Furthermore, this trend was replicated across all ability groups. These findings were thought to be indicative of the high demand and level of uncerainty imposed by the on-sight condition of ascent, lending support to previous suggestion that an on-sight ascent induces the highest anxiety response. During the climb, HR and were measured and averaged across the entirety of the ascent. When expressed as a percentage of and the average HR and responses during ascent were found to be comparable across ability groups. As such, all ability groups appeared to utilise similar fractions of maximal capacity, with elite climbers successfully ascending a route up to eight difficulty grades harder than those of lower ability, whilst still performing at the same workload intensity. It would appear that oxygen uptake during rock climbing may not be directly related to difficulty or personal ability. A technical advantage, personal climbing style, and possible physiological adaptations may be contributors to more strategic and efficient ascents resulting in the capacity to climb at higher grades of difficulty. The second study presented within this thesis was comprised of two phases of investigation; (1) to investigate whether psychological and physiological responses to competition-style climbing differed with respect to ability level, and (2) to investigate potential psychological and physiological differences based on route type and outcome (success and failure). In phase 1 of study two, intermediate, advanced and elite climbers attempted an lead on-sight ascent of a competition-style route which increased in difficulty as the climber progressed. The route was set with the intention of being just beyond the upper limits of the elite climbers self-reported best on-sight ability (~26 Ewbank). This was done in order to ensure that a fall from the route was highly likely, even for the elite climbers. All climbers failed to successfuly ascend the test route and as such all climbed to the point of failure resulting in a fall. The results obtained both prior to, and during ascent suggest that the intermediate and advanced climbers in the current study may have been limited by technical ability as opposed to physical exhaustion, or increased levels of anxiety. Elite climbers were to be able to maintain a more sustained physical effort during the more difficult phases of the climb. This appeared to be reflected in post-climb blood lactate concentration and ratings of task demand with respect to both physical demand and effort. As such it may be that elite climbers are more accustomed to maximal effort and demonstrate an increased tolerance to the higher exercise intensity required during more difficult ascents. In the second phase of study two the psychological and physiological responses of climbers in a competitive setting obtained in phase 1, were compared with those exhibited by participants during both successful and unsuccessful lead on-sight ascents in study one. The aim of study two phase 2 was to determine whether the responses of successful climbers differed from those who succeeded by reaching the top of a route, and performances in a competitive context where success is denoted by the distance achieved by a climbers on their ascent. The main findings in this instance were that although there were no significant differences observed between categories of ascent (successful, unsuccessful and competition) for grouped pre-climb variables, trends in CSAI-2R responses indicated high cognitive anxiety coupled with lower self-confidence prior to unsuccessful ascents. As such it may be that self-confidence acts as a buffer in moderating success in rock climbing, demonstrating the role of positive emotions and their impact upon performance as opposed to the detrimental effect of the negative. A second finding of this study was that there appeared to be a differing HR- relationship based on ascent category. Modest increases in were shown for all ascents, irrespective of ability level. A plateau in response was accompanied by a similar plateau in HR response during successful ascents, yet HR was shown to increase in a linear fashion until point of failure during unsuccessful ascents. It is possible that these findings highlight the presence of a climbing specific limitation

Artlift Wiltshire Final Report

In 2007, the Arts Council England advocated for the enhanced use of art programmes as a means to address health and well-being. As such the National Health Service (NHS) was encouraged to further engage with art based offerings for patients (Arts Council England, 2007). In response to this call for action NHS Gloucestershire worked in conjunction with Artlift to develop an art on referral scheme. This is an intervention where health primary care providers and professionals refer patients for an 8-10 week art programme, usually delivered in a community based or primary care setting. Artlift is a registered independent charity and charitable incorporated organisation (registered charity # 1151580). Based upon Artlift’s established programme reputation (2008-present) and evaluated health outcomes in Gloucestershire (Crone et al., 2011; 2012a; 2012b), Artlift is seeking to further develop locations for delivery of the arts based on prescription patient referral programme. A joint venture with NHS Wiltshire Council has been established to model Artlift Gloucestershire’s based programming in three GP residencies, with Whiteparish Surgery serving as the pilot location for evaluation. It is considered that acquiring evidence concerning the implementation of Artlift in different locations will assist in further understanding the process of ‘setting up’ and developing an Artlift model for larger scale programme roll-out

A psychophysiological comparison of on-sight lead and top rope ascents in advanced rock climbers

Research suggests that lead climbing is both physiologically and psychologically more stressful than top rope climbing for intermediate performers. This observation may not be true for advanced climbers, who train regularly on lead routes and are accustomed to leader falls. The aim of this study was to compare the psychophysiological stresses of lead and top rope on-sight ascents in advanced rock climbers. Twenty-one climbers (18 men and three women) ascended routes near or at the best of their ability (22 Ewbank). Psychological stress was measured preclimb using the Revised Comparative State Anxiety Inventory (CSAI-2R). Plasma cortisol was sampled at six intervals. The volume of oxygen (VO2) and heart rate (Hr) were measured throughout the climbs. No significant differences were found in self-confidence, somatic, or cognitive anxiety between the conditions lead and top rope. No significant differences in plasma cortisol concentration were found between any time points. No significant relationships were found between cortisol and any CSAI-2R measures. No significant differences were found between conditions for VO2 or blood lactate concentration. During the lead climb, Hr was significantly elevated during the last part of the route. Findings suggest that advanced rock climbers do not find lead climbing to be more stressful than top rope climbing during an on-sight ascent

Comparison of Lactate Sampling Sites for Rock Climbing

Comparisons of capillary blood lactate concentrations pre and post climb have featured in the protocols of many rock climbing studies, with most researchers obtaining samples from the fingertip. The nature of rock climbing, however, places a comparatively high physiological loading on the foreaand fingertips. Indeed, the fingertips are continually required for gripping and this makes pre-climb sampling at this site problematic. The purpose of our study was to examine differences in capillary blood lactate concentrations from samples taken at the fingertip and first (big) toe in a rock climbing context. 10 participants (9 males and 1 female) completed climbing bouts at 3 different angles (91°, 100° and 110°). Capillary blood samples were taken simultaneously from the fingertip and first toe pre and post climb. A limit of agreement plot revealed all data points to be well within the upper and lower bounds of the 95% population confidence interval. Subsequent regression analysis revealed a strong relationship (R (2)=0.94, y=0.940x + 0.208) between fingertip and first toe capillary blood lactate concentrations. Findings from our study suggest that the toe offers a valid alternative site for capillary blood lactate concentration analysis in a rock climbing context