Performance assessment of the database downscaled ocean waves (DOW) on Santa Catarina coast, South Brazil

ABSTRACT: This work presents a validation of wave parameters from the new sixty years Downscaled Ocean Waves (DOW) reanalysis database. This study compares quantiles of the Gumbel distribution of Hs (significant wave height) and Tp (peak period) from simulated data with an 11 months' time series obtained from a buoy moored seaward on the Santa Catarina coast. Analysis by means of Gumbel distribution quantiles allows more weight to be given to the highest values of the time series, which are especially important in design projects. The statistical parameters used to verify the fit between the measured and the modeled data included: RMSE, BIAS, Scatter Index and Pearson Correlation Coefficient. Mean direction (9m) validation was conducted qualitatively. The database showed good fit of the mean conditions, especially Hs which was well Reproduced by the wave model. Underestimation of Tp, related mainly to the low spatial and temporal resolution of wind data used to generate waves, highlights this general modeling problem. Based on calculated statistical parameters, DOW data were considered comparable to the values obtained by measurements; however, such data must be cautiously used for extreme events analysis and in areas of bimodal sea conditions, where major deficiencies in the database were observed.The authors are also thankful to the Brazilian government through the Ministério do Meio Ambiente (MMA) and the Agência Brasileira de Cooperação (ABC) for the financial support of this research (within the project Transference of Methodologies and Tools to Support the Brazilian Coastal Management)

Uniendo ingeniería y ecología: la protección costera basada en ecosistemas

En un contexto de crecientes impactos y riesgos socio-económicos en las costas del planeta, la protección costera basada en ecosistemas surge como un nuevo paradigma que une los principios de protección, sostenibilidad y resiliencia, a la vez que proporciona múltiples beneficios. Este artículo ofrece una perspectiva sobre qué son y cómo se pueden utilizar las defensas naturales en el diseño, planificación y gestión de costas. La política pública muestra un creciente interés por su implementación general y el cuerpo de conocimiento y experiencia alrededor de la también denominada infraestructura ?verde? es creciente, pero aún existen importantes barreras que salvar. Una de ellas es estandarizar su diseño en términos ingenieriles, así como reconocer los aspectos que los diferencian respecto a enfoques tradicionales. La adaptación climática y la reducción de riesgos son áreas en las que su utilización puede ser más significativa, debido a la variedad de servicios que ofrecen. Tanto desde el punto de vista técnico como económico, existen argumentos sólidos para evitar la degradación de los ecosistemas, avanzando su restauración y conservación, como también desde la perspectiva de la defensa de las costas.In a context of increasing socio-economic impacts and risks in the coastal areas of the planet, coastal protection based on ecosystem features becomes a new paradigm that combines the principles of conservation, sustainability and resilience, while providing multiple benefits. This paper provides a perspective on what these are and how they can be used in the design, planning and management of the coastal zones. Policy-makers are calling for further uptake and implementation across the board and the body of knowledge and experience around the socalled ?green? infrastructure is growing, but there are still major barriers for a widespread uptake. One of them is to standardize designs in engineering terms, recognizing the different characteristics compared to traditional engineering solutions. Climate adaptation and risk reduction are areas where its use may be more significant, for the variety of services they offer. Both technically and economically, there are strong arguments to prevent degradation of ecosystems and to advance in their restoration and conservation, as well as from a coastal defense perspective

Effect of offshore waves and vegetation on the sediment budget in the Virginia Coast Reserve (VA)

The potential for rapid coastline modification in the face of sea-level rise or other stressors is alarming, since coasts are often densely populated and support valuable infrastructure. In addition to coastal submergence, nutrient-related water pollution is a growing concern for coastal wetlands. Previous studies found that the Suspended Sediment Concentration (SSC) of coastal wetlands acts as a first-order control of their sustainability, but SSC dynamics are poorly understood. Our study focuses on the Virginia Coast Reserve (VCR) Long Term Ecological Research (LTER) site, a shallow multiple tidal inlet system in the USA. We apply numerical modelling (Delft3D-SWAN) and subsequent analyses to determine SSC dynamics within the VCR. In particular, we consider two important controls on SSC in the system: vegetation (seagrass and salt marsh) and offshore waves. Our results show that vegetation colonies and increased wave energy lengthen water residence time. The reduction in the tidal prism decreases SSC export from the bay via tidal inlets, leading to increased sediment retention in the bay. We found that alongshore currents can enhance lagoon SSC by importing fine sediments from an adjacent inlet along the coastline. Our numerical experiments on vegetation seasonality can improve the understanding of wave climate impact on coastal bay sediment budget. Offshore waves increase sediment export from coastal bays, particularly during winter seasons with low vegetation density. Therefore, our study can help managers and stakeholders to understand how to implement restoration strategies for the VCR