‘Aesthetics, Economics and the Enchantment of Cloth’

The paper draws together 20 years of reflective, interdisciplinary practice, focusing on the research project, The Enchantment of Cloth (2014-2017), the archives and objects and the teams they work with

Responsive and Emotive Wearable Technology: physiological data, devices and communication

My research practice and thesis investigates how wearable technology can be used to create new forms of nonverbal communication. Using devices developed through my practice, I explore how physiological data can be drawn from the body, then visualised and broadcast. I examine the opinions and requirements of potential users and observers of this technology, through qualitative responses in interviews and surveys from focus groups and field tests. I have analysed the resulting data to extract preferences and concerns, plus the requirements for the functionality and aesthetics of these devices. I discuss the social and cultural aspects of wearing such devices, as well as the issues, including how privacy may be affected and the implications of recording personal data. I examine my practice in the context of the work of the communities and practitioners in the field, and introduce two new terms to label two sub-sections of wearable technology. These are ‘responsive wearables’ and ‘emotive wearables’, and they form part of the distinctive contribution that I make. Reflecting on the evolution of my practice has led to other contributions regarding the development of wearable technology. Through this, I identify and share the insights into the disciplines and processes required for the fusion of technology and design successfully to evolve electronics, code and materials into research prototypes. I conclude by discussing findings from my practice, research and studies with potential users of emotive wearables. I comment on the impact that physiologically sensing wearable technology has on aspects of social interaction for the individual as well as for the wider community. I open the discussion on future research by revealing two new examples of emotive wearables — the AnemoneStarHeart and the ThinkerBelle EEG Amplifying Dress — which have evolved from pinpointing specific areas of the focus group and field test feedback that I undertook

Wearable Absence: memories and emotions through wearable technology

Set up in 2001 to encourage Concordia University and Université de Québec to combine research, and consolidate Montreal’s position in the art and technology sector, Hexagram is concerned with developing research between the arts and technology, a key focus area for Goldsmiths’ new Digital Studios. The Studios are jointly headed up by Professor Janis Jefferies and Professor Robert Zimmer, who have been instrumental in facilitating the collaboration. One of two ongoing projects, ‘wearable computers’, which received a 75,000 Canadian dollars grant from Hexagram, 50% of which was devolved to Goldsmiths Digital Studios. This was the first of two projects that began to fulfil a Memorandum of Understanding signed by Goldsmiths Warden, Professor Geoffrey Crossick in 2006. The Wearable Absence project (a system of wearable devices known as 'intelligent textiles', developed by two teams of researchers led by Professor Barbara Layne of Concordia University, and Professor Janis Jefferies at Goldsmiths, University of London, U.K., has received national and international coverage with over 1 million hits on Google. The project was showcased at the FOFA Gallery as part of Congress 2010 in Montreal. Media coverage of this project has appeared in print, on TV and on the web worldwide in countries ranging from the Canada, USA, UK, to India, Germany, France, Russia,Columbia, Spain and Egypt, and media outlets such as the BBC, NBC, FOX News, Medical News Today and Science News. http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/technology/10236143.stm Wearable Absence project was also picked up by the following websites: Agencies Science-Presse, Plastic Electronics, Fibre2Fashion, Press TV, Gizmag, SmartPlanet, UberGizmo, and many more. Wearable Absence was launched at the Social Sciences and Humanities conference June 2010 in Montreal and recently featured in Edinburgh International Science Festival, Inscape Gallery, University of Edinburgh, 9-22 April 2011. 18th April, panel with Kevin Warwick at ‘It Happened in Edinburgh’ on Pervasive Computing. Wearable Absence was showcased in Sensual Tech, technologies exhibition at ISEA 2011, Istanbul (14-21 September) and REWIND INTO THE FUTURE: Smart Textiles part of the Kaunas Biennal, Lithuania (22 Sept- 4 Dec 2011). Seminer at Kaunas, Academcy of Fine Arts future of textiles in relation to technologies and scientific field with Cleve van Heeden from Philips Design (The Netherlands), September 25 2011. Wearable Absence is featured in UNCONTAINABLE, the catalogue proceedings of the 17th International symposium on electronic art, Istanbul. The catalogue, is produced in collaboration with Leonardo/ISAST, ISEA International, Kasa Gallery, Sabanci University and Goldsmiths College, features the work of artists who exhibited their work in ISEA2011 Istanbul exhibition programme. UNCONTAINABLE , LEA VOL 18 NO 5 ISSN 1071-4391 ISBN 978-1-906897-19-2 ISSN 1071-4391 ISBN 978-1-906897-19-2 LEA VOL 18 NO 5 Wearable Absence is featured in rewind, exhibition catalogue, Kaunas Biennial 2011, pp206-209, ISBN 978995598741. Janis Jefferies’ Wires and Wearables, based on the experiences of intelligent textiles, will be published in This Pervasive Day The Potential and Perils of Pervasive Computing (Ed. Jeremy Pitt) as part of the FP7 output, Imperial College Press, ISBN-13: 978-1848167483 See the book on Amazon http://www.amazon.co.uk/ This-Pervasive-Day-Potential-Computing/dp/1848167482 2011 Funding Goldsmiths Business Development Office for establishing Ip contracts sponsored by The Hexagram Institute, Quebec Government Office in London, The Social Sciences and Humanities Research Council of Canada, The Arts and Business New Partner Scheme, The British Council and The Arts and Humanities Research Council. Postscript Both Wearable Absence and E Static Shadows were featured in Inspired Design – Jacquard and Entrepreneurial Textiles , May 20-August 22, 2008 opening at Center for Craft, Creativity and Design, Hendersonville, North Carolina then travelling to universities in 2008-2009. A 54 page four-color publication featured the work and artists in this exhibition with a discussion of the growth areas of entrepreneurial textile design, images of the work and artists at work, and a biography section with photos of each artist. The Entrepreneurial Jacquard Textile Conference ran from January 7-10, 2009 at Center for Craft, Creativity and Design, Hendersonville, NC, USA. Janis Jefferies and Barbara provided keynotes. The review of the conference and exhibition can be found in Textiles: The Journal of Cloth and Culture, Vol 7, Issue 3, November 2009, pp.356-364 and extract of which is quoted below. “More open minded research such places as Goldsmiths Digital Studios (in London) and XS labs and the Hexagram Institute (both at Concordia University). These artists exemplify a cross-discipline approach that has become the new paradigm for experimental work. People at the forefronts of their respective fields are forming an exciting blend of craft, art and technology. The results are inspiring a wide ranging acceptance of technology as part of craft, not an opposing force