Risk across design domains

Design processes involve risk: to life and limb if the product is unsafe, to the financial health of the company if the product is late, unsuccessful or simply the wrong product, as well as to the emotions and careers of the designers. Many of the risks are shared universally by all designers, but each different industry and each different project faces its own spectrum of serious and minor risks. Different industries have put their methodological effort into finding ways to mitigate the risks they recognise as important. As part of the Across Design project exploring similarities and differences between design processes in different industries, this paper examines how risks are perceived and handled in different types of design process, and proposes that designers and managers can usefully look to other industries for ways to handle risks that are more central for those other industries

Opportunities and challenges in agriculture and garments

"For the past two decades, Bangladesh has enjoyed steady growth in per capita incomes enabling a significant reduction in poverty. An increase in rice productivity, achieved through a combination of improved seeds, increased fertilizer use, and public and private investments in irrigation, played a major role in the increase in incomes. Among the other major factors were a large expansion in textile exports, made possible by changes in world demand, Bangladesh trade liberalization, and macro-economic stability; and increases in workers remittances. In order to accelerate or even maintain income growth rates and poverty reduction, future policies must be carefully designed to capture the benefits and minimize the risks of international trade and a constantly changing international environment. A proper assessment of the impact of such policies and economic developments on the poor requires a comprehensive framework to analyze interactions between different sectors as well as linkages between macro and micro levels. In this paper we construct a social accounting matrix for 1999/2000 and develop a computable general equilibrium model (CGE) with special treatment of the rice and wheat sectors. We then present simulations of the effects of (i) rice productivity shocks, (ii) a decline in the world rice price, and (iii) a reduction in RMG exports, reflecting an end to preferential access to RMG markets for Bangladesh goods.... Overall, these simulations illustrate the importance of trade policy and links between Bangladesh and the world economy. International trade offers the potential to prevent a decline in real prices of rice if productivity of paddy production increases and to benefit from increased export earnings. It has also permitted a large increase in RMG export earnings. However, changes in international markets could threaten welfare of some Bangladesh households, as well, as illustrated by the simulations of lower import prices of rice that could sharply reduce farmer incomes, and of a decline in textile export earnings that could sharply reduce female urban employment and urban household incomes....[T]hese simulations show that the Bangladesh economy and household incomes are clearly linked with the global economy, particularly through foodgrain trade and the RMG sector. Efforts to alleviate poverty and raise the incomes of the poor should not neglect these linkages, particularly in cases where these poverty alleviation interventions are large enough to have major effects on the real exchange rate and female labor earnings." Author's Abstract.Equilibrium (Economics) Models ,

Craftmanship and Digitalization in the Italian Knitwear Industry. A Paradigm Shift for the Narrative of Made in Italy

Knitwear is a consolidated industry in Italy and, at the same time, a typical expression of the Made in Italy paradigm linked to the ideas of craftsmanship. While, on the one hand, knitwear is associated with the idea of craft and manufacturing traditions, on the other hand, it is nowadays produced by numerical control machines (CNC) where the technological contribution and the level of automation are very relevant. The convergence of physical and digital environments, at the heart of the Fashion Industry 4.0 debate, is an established feature of knitwear design practice. In the contemporary industrial scenario, knitted items are produced on digitally programmed machines through sophisticated software, and the manual contribution of the individual operator during the knitting phase is reduced to a minimum. In the light of these premises, this contribution questions the opportunity and value of the integration of digital technologies in the storytelling of traditional manufacturing without losing the power to evoke Made in Italy’s values such as quality, aesthetic refinement, and exclusivity. To analyze these issues, the authors report the case study of SMT – Società Manifattura Tessile, a leading knitting company where the technological presence equals that of traditional manufacturing craftmanship, keeping both elements at balance. The case study suggests the importance of the contemporary knitting craftsman to increasingly develop communication skills to make the relationship between technology andmanufacturing explicit and possibly smoothly blend it with the Made in Italy archetypes

A creative journey developing an integrated high-fashion knitwear development process using computerized seamless v-bed knitting systems

This PhD applied a participatory action research approach to address the organizational problems that compromise the use of computerized seamless V-bed knitwear systems in the high-fashion knitwear sector. The research is a response to a widely acknowledged conflict between high-fashion design processes and processes by which designs are developed on computerized seamless V-bed knitting systems. The social, organizational, and technical aspects of design and manufacturing using computerized seamless V-bed knitting technology in high-fashion knitwear design were analyzed as a socio-technical system (STS). This approach led to a review of the workflows, tasks and roles; identifying and testing new design and manufacturing processes, design methods, and garment solutions; creating a theory model of a new integrated design process; and developing and testing new design processes, design methods, and fashion design education courses that teach these new fashion knitwear approaches.The research was undertaken using a Shima Seiki WholeGarment® system, a current computerized seamless V-bed knitting design and manufacturing technology. The studio workspace, yarn, use of the Shima Seiki system; involvement in fashion projects, and associate supervision were provided by the Department of Agriculture and Food Western Australia (DAFWA).The research demonstrated a high-fashion knitwear designer can undertake all aspects of managing computerized seamless V-bed knitwear design and production to the completion of 1st sample, the first successful sample of a new fabric or garment, was produced using the computer knit data. This finding was developed into a new integrated design process and design methods that remove most of the problems of computerized seamless V-bed knitting systems in high-fashion and offers additional benefits including reduction in time to market and design costs, and increases in the creative solution space for high-fashion knitwear design.The researcher has called this new role, a ‘designer-interpreter’ to denote a professional knitwear designer with additional training in managing computerized seamless knitting machines. Within the context of ‘designer-interpreter’, this research also established the feasibility of a new form of a ‘post-industrial craft-based one-person knitwear production system’

Corporate long-range planning in South Africa: its extent and nature

This thesis was written in response to the increasingly evident need for the most complete information possible on planning activity and practices among South African firms. It was also dictated by an urgent necessity to clarify the methodologies, techniques and frameworks used at present in business planning. Alas, only too often scholars and practitioners alike assume that a comprehensive and general theory on planning exists, complete with methodologies, models, frameworks and so forth. But anyone examining the vast amount of literature on planning and related subjects published during the past twenty years would find this to be a fallacy, and may experience the same desire for the clarification of the present status of the planning art as we did. This desire became one of the principal stimuli for our investigation. Some studies may be built on already well-established foundations, but this is unfortunately not the case in our enquiry as there is as yet no appreciable base consisting of a distinct body of knowledge and relevant theories. In attempting to delineate this knowledge, a necessary point of departure is an appraisal of the current state of human knowledge. We shall, therefore, start with a broad review of this knowledge and narrow it down to areas which are particularly relevant to business planning. This attempt will, hopefully, point to a body of distinct knowledge indispensable to modern planners and show that, - whilst a large body of this knowledge lies within a discipline called 'management science', other relevant knowledge is found in economics, organisation theory and theory of knowledge. This analysis will, at the same time, highlight the present status of the relevant theory of planning, and indicate gaps between the state of the art and the needs of the business. We shall suggest that a general planning theory must come from an interdisciplinary approach. The aim of these efforts is to develop a broad framework and guide for our analysis of planning activity, concepts and methodologies at present used by South African firms. On the basis of these findings we shall than make judgements on the manner in which South African planners address each of the descriptive and normative planning topics, and suggest possible directions for further research. Finally, we shall attempt to formulate a conceptual long-range planning model as we see it, and discuss the usefulness of formal, mathematical planning models as revealed by our study and survey

DTI Economics Paper No. 2: A comparative study of the British and Italian Textile and Clothing Industries.

Commissioned by: Association of Suppliers to the British Clothing Industry Conference, Hucknell, Nottingham, February 2004 During the 1990s the Italian clothing and textiles industry grew while the British, French and German textile and clothing industries declined by 40%. In 2001 the Italian textiles & clothing sector was three times larger than the British, accounting for 11.7% of Italian manufacturing output but only 3.3% in Britain. In 2000 Italian fabric exports were 15 times that of the UK. The study was conducted in response to a recommendation by the Textiles and Clothing Strategy Group (TCSG), comprising UK industry, trade unions, Higher Education and the DTI. The purpose of the study was to account for these differences, assess relative merits against value for money and identify best practice in the Italian industry. The methodology comprised comparative analysis and case studies of British and Italian textile mills and tailoring manufacturers, based on my initial recommendations. We visited 5 textile mills in Yorkshire and 15 in Italy plus 3 factories in each country. I conducted a detailed comparative technical analysis of the construction of suit jackets against 13 devised criteria, a number of interviews,compared technologies, equipment and manufacturing methods across all factories, against 8 criteria, drawing on my specialist knowledge and experience as a menswear clothing technologist. The technical reports I compiled formed a section of the final report. Findings were presented to the Clothing Strategy Group and published by the DTI as their Economic Paper No 2 . I made further presentations to industry and academic groups including ASBCI, FCDE, The Textile Society, Savile Row Tailors Association, and LSE. Other outcomes were a publication in the Journal of the Textile Society Text, an article in Selvedge magazine and contributions to the Encyclopaedia of Clothing by Thomson Gale. As a result of this research further consultancy projects have been conducted with the Industry Forum and ASBCI

The knitter's tale: a practice-led approach to framework knitting through a contemporary exploration of traditional practices, patterns, skills and stories

This thesis presents the findings of the practice-led investigation which documented the processes of learning the skills of framework knitting, using traditional techniques to establish creative dialogues between Academic, Industrial and Heritage institutions. The investigation was conducted using active researcher participation to determine the contribution that personal experience can make to ‘experiential knowing’. This research was supported by a Collaborative Doctoral Award from the Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC) which set the parameters of the inquiry to include creative interaction with locations where framework knitting still takes place. The study supported the preservation of technical skill by establishing a new way to value expert craft knowledge which was used to inspire contemporary creative practice. Through a process of creative learning and reflection, this study used naturalistic observations to identify evidence of creative decision-making and technical skill, which was further supported by the analysis of knitted artefacts and previously unseen workman’s notebooks which were used to identify pattern inspirations, stitch counts and construction methods