The benefit of textile design research to the textile designer.

If Textile Designers do not embark on and utilise textile research we will be left in a ‘sole less’ vacuum. The following article aims to show the benefit of textile design research to the textile designer. Textile design is increasingly complex, and influenced by a number of factors such as ethical textiles, sustainability, fast versus slow fashion, new digital technology and science. It is therefore necessary for increased research by the textile designer into these areas in order to understand and gain knowledge that can be incorporated into the vast textile industry so that we produce the most relevant cloth and fabrics, that satisfy both consumer and ethical requirements. “Work on good prose has three steps: a musical stage when its composed, an architectonic stage when its built and textile stage when its woven” Walter Benjamin 1892-1940. [1

Inkjet4Tex: Creative implications of 3D inkjet printing technologies for textiles

This project expands future applied-design capabilities for textiles as a function of inkjet deposition technology. The project investigates 3D inkjet rapid-production tools’ potential, focusing on creative gaps in the developing technology in its application to the textile design process. As such, the research investigates future design possibilities for inkjet printing technology in the creation of 3D textile structures and surfaces. The research “demonstrates how tacit knowledge can be employed, observed and created in a methodical way, with new artefacts playing a role in provoking insights based on tacit understanding”… [with a ] focus on developing and employing tacit insights that would not be revealed in situations where nothing has been changed.” (Rust, 2007) As inkjet textile technology evolves past a rapid prototyping tool into a series of responsive manufacturing techniques for textile products, designers, textile technology developers and soft goods industries will be able to use the results of this research to maximize their creative development. By developing and employing modified 2D/3D textile design processes with the technology future creators will be assisted to conceptualise and manufacture locally, creatively and with more accessible technologies. Keywords: 3D textiles, surface design, technology-driven design process, inkjet printing, fused deposition modelling, novel textile design</p

The next generation textile antennas based on substrate integrated waveguide technology

Textile antennas for body-worn applications have some very specific requirements and needs. From an electrical engineer's point of view, good radiation characteristics and impedance matching to the active electronics are important. From the wearer's perspective, the antenna should be unobtrusively integrated into the clothing, and the smart textile comfortable to wear. New techniques offer the potential to fulfill these different needs. One new approach consists of applying metalized eyelets to implement substrate integrated waveguide technology on textile materials. This results in high-performance on-body antennas with excellent behavior in close proximity of the human body. Two realizations are discussed: a wideband design and a miniaturized half mode substrate integrated waveguide dual-band design. Both yield excellent free-space and on-body performance, and superb antenna-body isolation, automatically resulting in very robust characteristics when deployed on-body

Rapid Manufactured Textiles

Rapid Manufacturing (RM) is increasingly becoming a viable manufacturing process due to dramatic advantages that are achievable in the area of design complexity. Through the exploration of the design freedom, this paper introduces the concept of manufacturing textiles for potential smart and high performance textile applications. This paper discusses the current limitations associated with the manufacture of textiles through RM and presents a novel methodology for the generation of 3D conformal RM textile articles. The paper concludes that through RM it is entirely possible to manufacture a structure that incorporates drape and free movement properties directly comparable to conventional textiles.Mechanical Engineerin

Active textile antennas in professional garments for sensing, localisation and communication

New wireless wearable monitoring systems integrated in professional garments require a high degree of reliability and autonomy. Active textile antenna systems may serve as platforms for body-centric sensing, localisation, and wireless communication systems, in the meanwhile being comfortable and invisible to the wearer. We present a new dedicated comprehensive design paradigm and combine this with adapted signal-processing techniques that greatly enhance the robustness and the autonomy of these systems. On the one hand, the large amount of real estate available in professional rescue worker garments may be exploited to deploy multiple textile antennas. On the other hand, the size of each radiator may be designed large enough to ensure high radiation efficiency when deployed on the body. This antenna area is then reused by placing active electronics directly underneath and energy harvesters directly on top of the antenna patch. We illustrate this design paradigm by means of recent textile antenna prototypes integrated in professional garments, providing sensing, positioning, and communication capabilities. In particular, a novel wearable active Galileo E1-band antenna is presented and fully characterized, including noise figure, and linearity performance

Environmental electromagnetic characterization framework for wearable antenna materials

In wearable antenna design, the prevailing atmospheric conditions can have a significant effect on the electromagnetic properties of the fabric substrate and hence the resulting antenna performances. Therefore, an accurate characterization of this effect is an important issue in textile antenna design. This paper presents a dedicated constitutive parameter extraction method as a function of relative humidity of all materials used. The method relies on a comparison between measured and simulated antenna figure's of merit in order to extract complex permittivity of the substrate and effective bulk conductivity of the e-textile. A two-step approach is used for separating conductor losses from substrate losses. The problem of finding the best fit between simulated and measured data is solved by relying on a surrogate based optimization technique. Here, two fabric materials are characterized for relative humidity levels ranging from 10% to 90%

A through wall doppler radar system: active textile antenna design, prototyping and experiment

Using garments as a platform for electronic sensing and communication systems opens up a wide range of novel and exciting applications. By carefully tailoring the antenna properties and by adopting a dedicated design strategy, a robust wearable antenna system can be obtained onto which all necessary electronics are integrated. In this contribution, the dedicated design for approach of a low-weight, wearable Doppler radar system fabricated on textile materials is presented. The system, fully integrated into a rescue worker's garment, is capable of detecting moving objects behind a barrier. It relies on an array of four textile transmit antennas to scan the surroundings. At the receiving end, an active wearable receive antenna is deployed to capture the reflected signals. It is demonstrated that the on-body system is capable of detecting moving subjects in indoor environments, including through-wall scenarios

Design and sustainable development: what is the contribution that design can make? A case study of the Welsh Woollen Industry

This paper reports on ongoing research examining the contribution that design can make to sustainable development, that is: '… development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs' (WCED, 1987, p. 43) It outlines the need for global sustainable development and its adoption into global and governmental policies. Both of the key concepts of design and sustainable development are discussed, as is the relationship between them (Spangenberg 2001, Walker 2006). The contradictions between design as a stimulator of consumption and its potential contribution to sustainable development are examined. The context of the research is Wales, one of the few nations to have a legal commitment to sustainable development (Welsh Assembly Government 2004a), and a selected part of the textile industry there. The policy background and the measurement of sustainable development in Wales are discussed. A background is given to the selected part of the textile industry, that is the Welsh Woollen Industry and a classification of it into ‘old’ and ‘new’ sectors is proposed. The methodology of the study is outlined, having a social constructionist philosophy, informed by feminism and interpretivism. The methods developed to explore this relationship are principally qualitative (Rossman and Rallis 1998) within which a case study approach is taken (Langrish 1993, Yin 2003). Analysis of data collected indicate that the use of design as a recognised activity is uneven, some producers using design strategically to give their work unique appeal and others not using it in a conscious way. In other contexts a design input does not contribute to economic sustainability as might be expected (Lorenz 1986). Further work is outlined including concepts and tools to be used. More data will be collected from producers in urban areas in order to gain further insights and from key people working in both design and sustainable development at an institutional level. Keywords: Design; Sustainable Development; Wales; Welsh textile industry; rural producers</p

Textiles as Material Gestalt: Cloth as a Catalyst in the Co-designing Process

Textiles is the common language within Emotional Fit, a collaborative research project investigating a person-centred, sustainable approach to fashion for an ageing female demographic (55+). Through the co-designing of a collection of research tools, textiles have acted as a material gestalt for exploring our research participants' identities by tracing their embodied knowledge of fashionable dress. The methodology merges Interpretative Phenomenological Analysis, co-design and a simultaneous approach to textile and garment design. Based on an enhanced understanding of our participants textile preferences, particular fabric qualities have catalysed silhouettes, through live draping and geometric pattern cutting to accommodate multiple body shapes and customisation. Printedtextiles have also been digitally crafted in response to the contours of the garment and body and personal narratives of wear. Sensorial and tactile interactions have informed the engineering and scaling of patterns within zero-waste volumes. The article considers the functional and aesthetic role of textiles

Development and Marketing of a Repurposed Textile Product for Homeless Individuals in Northwest Arkansas

Growing concerns over waste disposal methods have led to a greater focus on recycling efforts in the textile industry. Second only to the oil industry, the textile industry continues to be one of the most wasteful among leading businesses around the world and determining ways to repurpose fashion materials could be a reasonable solution to this growing problem (Dobilaite, V., Mileriene, G., Juciene, M., & Sacevičienė, 2017). In addition to alleviating disposal issues, repurposed materials could serve the humanitarian needs of local communities, and even more importantly, could specifically benefit homeless populations. The purpose of this project was to design, execute, analyze, critique and report on the development of a sleeping bag prototype using repurposed materials created to benefit homeless populations in Northwest Arkansas. The product logo for the sleeping bag, identified by the name, “HIP”, was established to represent the slogan, “Homelessness Is Personal.” Using the design methodology established, the HIP prototype could be distributed to individuals living in homeless communities in Northwest Arkansas. By using repurposed materials for the end product, waste reduction of textile products may result. Further, engagement of the community could be accomplished by using the design methodology to establish work groups for production of the sleeping bags. Ultimately, this design methodology was designed so that distribution to other communities outside of the Northwest Arkansas region could be a foreseeable future goal of the committee. Materials collected from Goodwill in Fayetteville, Arkansas were used in creating the prototype and production was completed at the University of Arkansas Apparel Merchandising and Product Development (AMPD) design and development labs. Projections indicate that the design, development, and marketing efforts surrounding the HIP prototype are potentially conducive to the creation of a lasting and sustainable project, which might continue to creatively engage students for many years to come