Second skin iterations: programmes and prototypes.

As an emerging area of research, blending science, technology, design: product, textiles and fashion, this paper speculates on ways to use 3D realisation and embedded technologies to address and enhance our ability to live well. There is clearly a significant market for wearable, livable technology that maximizes our awareness of our personal physical, psychological and emotional state. However, the authors argue that there is a disconnect between those current products, fashion and textiles and the skin they sit upon, and therefore current and emerging technologies do not fully meet user needs and wants. In this paper the authors draw on their own areas of specialist knowledge, namely product (Fairburn) and fashion and textiles (Steed) to focus on examining the interlocking of different design disciplines where the author's backgrounds in textiles and product design, industry and academic, health and environment, provide new insights into the different drivers for innovative product development and research

Estimating posture-recognition performance in sensing garments using geometric wrinkle modeling

A fundamental challenge limiting information quality obtained from smart sensing garments is the influence of textile movement relative to limbs. We present and validate a comprehensive modeling and simulation framework to predict recognition performance in casual loose-fitting garments. A statistical posture and wrinkle-modeling approach is introduced to simulate sensor orientation errors pertained to local garment wrinkles. A metric was derived to assess fitting, the body-garment mobility. We validated our approach by analyzing simulations of shoulder and elbow rehabilitation postures with respect to experimental data using actual casual garments. Results confirmed congruent performance trends with estimation errors below 4% for all study participants. Our approach allows to estimate the impact of fitting before implementing a garment and performing evaluation studies with it. These simulations revealed critical design parameters for garment prototyping, related to performed body posture, utilized sensing modalities, and garment fitting. We concluded that our modeling approach can substantially expedite design and development of smart garments through early-stage performance analysis

Blending the Material and Digital World for Hybrid Interfaces

The development of digital technologies in the 21st century is progressing continuously and new device classes such as tablets, smartphones or smartwatches are finding their way into our everyday lives. However, this development also poses problems, as these prevailing touch and gestural interfaces often lack tangibility, take little account of haptic qualities and therefore require full attention from their users. Compared to traditional tools and analog interfaces, the human skills to experience and manipulate material in its natural environment and context remain unexploited. To combine the best of both, a key question is how it is possible to blend the material world and digital world to design and realize novel hybrid interfaces in a meaningful way. Research on Tangible User Interfaces (TUIs) investigates the coupling between physical objects and virtual data. In contrast, hybrid interfaces, which specifically aim to digitally enrich analog artifacts of everyday work, have not yet been sufficiently researched and systematically discussed. Therefore, this doctoral thesis rethinks how user interfaces can provide useful digital functionality while maintaining their physical properties and familiar patterns of use in the real world. However, the development of such hybrid interfaces raises overarching research questions about the design: Which kind of physical interfaces are worth exploring? What type of digital enhancement will improve existing interfaces? How can hybrid interfaces retain their physical properties while enabling new digital functions? What are suitable methods to explore different design? And how to support technology-enthusiast users in prototyping? For a systematic investigation, the thesis builds on a design-oriented, exploratory and iterative development process using digital fabrication methods and novel materials. As a main contribution, four specific research projects are presented that apply and discuss different visual and interactive augmentation principles along real-world applications. The applications range from digitally-enhanced paper, interactive cords over visual watch strap extensions to novel prototyping tools for smart garments. While almost all of them integrate visual feedback and haptic input, none of them are built on rigid, rectangular pixel screens or use standard input modalities, as they all aim to reveal new design approaches. The dissertation shows how valuable it can be to rethink familiar, analog applications while thoughtfully extending them digitally. Finally, this thesis’ extensive work of engineering versatile research platforms is accompanied by overarching conceptual work, user evaluations and technical experiments, as well as literature reviews.Die Durchdringung digitaler Technologien im 21. Jahrhundert schreitet stetig voran und neue Geräteklassen wie Tablets, Smartphones oder Smartwatches erobern unseren Alltag. Diese Entwicklung birgt aber auch Probleme, denn die vorherrschenden berührungsempfindlichen Oberflächen berücksichtigen kaum haptische Qualitäten und erfordern daher die volle Aufmerksamkeit ihrer Nutzer:innen. Im Vergleich zu traditionellen Werkzeugen und analogen Schnittstellen bleiben die menschlichen Fähigkeiten ungenutzt, die Umwelt mit allen Sinnen zu begreifen und wahrzunehmen. Um das Beste aus beiden Welten zu vereinen, stellt sich daher die Frage, wie neuartige hybride Schnittstellen sinnvoll gestaltet und realisiert werden können, um die materielle und die digitale Welt zu verschmelzen. In der Forschung zu Tangible User Interfaces (TUIs) wird die Verbindung zwischen physischen Objekten und virtuellen Daten untersucht. Noch nicht ausreichend erforscht wurden hingegen hybride Schnittstellen, die speziell darauf abzielen, physische Gegenstände des Alltags digital zu erweitern und anhand geeigneter Designparameter und Entwurfsräume systematisch zu untersuchen. In dieser Dissertation wird daher untersucht, wie Materialität und Digitalität nahtlos ineinander übergehen können. Es soll erforscht werden, wie künftige Benutzungsschnittstellen nützliche digitale Funktionen bereitstellen können, ohne ihre physischen Eigenschaften und vertrauten Nutzungsmuster in der realen Welt zu verlieren. Die Entwicklung solcher hybriden Ansätze wirft jedoch übergreifende Forschungsfragen zum Design auf: Welche Arten von physischen Schnittstellen sind es wert, betrachtet zu werden? Welche Art von digitaler Erweiterung verbessert das Bestehende? Wie können hybride Konzepte ihre physischen Eigenschaften beibehalten und gleichzeitig neue digitale Funktionen ermöglichen? Was sind geeignete Methoden, um verschiedene Designs zu erforschen? Wie kann man Technologiebegeisterte bei der Erstellung von Prototypen unterstützen? Für eine systematische Untersuchung stützt sich die Arbeit auf einen designorientierten, explorativen und iterativen Entwicklungsprozess unter Verwendung digitaler Fabrikationsmethoden und neuartiger Materialien. Im Hauptteil werden vier Forschungsprojekte vorgestellt, die verschiedene visuelle und interaktive Prinzipien entlang realer Anwendungen diskutieren. Die Szenarien reichen von digital angereichertem Papier, interaktiven Kordeln über visuelle Erweiterungen von Uhrarmbändern bis hin zu neuartigen Prototyping-Tools für intelligente Kleidungsstücke. Um neue Designansätze aufzuzeigen, integrieren nahezu alle visuelles Feedback und haptische Eingaben, um Alternativen zu Standard-Eingabemodalitäten auf starren Pixelbildschirmen zu schaffen. Die Dissertation hat gezeigt, wie wertvoll es sein kann, bekannte, analoge Anwendungen zu überdenken und sie dabei gleichzeitig mit Bedacht digital zu erweitern. Dabei umfasst die vorliegende Arbeit sowohl realisierte technische Forschungsplattformen als auch übergreifende konzeptionelle Arbeiten, Nutzerstudien und technische Experimente sowie die Analyse existierender Forschungsarbeiten

Sustainable Solutions for Fashion Design: Adjusting the Fashion Design Process for a More Sustainable Industry

Fashion is a non-sustainable industry. One of the largest industries globally, fashion is considered one of the greatest polluters in the world – it contributes 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions, it generates nearly 20% of global water waste, and it produces yearly massive quantities of textile waste. Despite the efforts of researchers or pioneers at various levels of the industry, changes seem to take place slowly and isolated. Assuming that a real change in the industry must happen from the very initial stage of creation – the way we think and conceive fashion, this paper takes a closer look at the fashion design process. As studio-oriented research, the paper focuses on the designer's work and highlights the designer's responsibility during the multiple phases of creation. From concept development to materials sourcing, from recycling/re-using/repairing strategies to the new technologies of production, from slow fashion movement to multifunctional garments design – sustainable oriented actions must occur simultaneously at each stage of the design process. The conventional phases of fashion thinking are re-evaluated, embedding sustainable concerns into the studio standard processes. Relevant solutions and examples of best practices are further illustrated and analyzed. Emphasizing the importance of seeing sustainability as an integrated part of the design process, the paper aims to adjust the fashion designer’s mindset to function as a catalyst for the industry’s transformation. Keywords: sustainability, fashion design process, sustainable solutions, studio practice DOI: 10.7176/ADS/81-03 Publication date:March 31st 202

ICS Materials. Towards a re-Interpretation of material qualities through interactive, connected, and smart materials.

The domain of materials for design is changing under the influence of an increased technological advancement, miniaturization and democratization. Materials are becoming connected, augmented, computational, interactive, active, responsive, and dynamic. These are ICS Materials, an acronym that stands for Interactive, Connected and Smart. While labs around the world are experimenting with these new materials, there is the need to reflect on their potentials and impact on design. This paper is a first step in this direction: to interpret and describe the qualities of ICS materials, considering their experiential pattern, their expressive sensorial dimension, and their aesthetic of interaction. Through case studies, we analyse and classify these emerging ICS Materials and identified common characteristics, and challenges, e.g. the ability to change over time or their programmability by the designers and users. On that basis, we argue there is the need to reframe and redesign existing models to describe ICS materials, making their qualities emerge

Include 2011 : The role of inclusive design in making social innovation happen.

Include is the biennial conference held at the RCA and hosted by the Helen Hamlyn Centre for Design. The event is directed by Jo-Anne Bichard and attracts an international delegation

Modeling Service-Oriented Context Processing in Dynamic Body Area Networks

Context processing in Body Area Networks (BANs) faces unique challenges due to the user and node mobility, the need of real-time adaptation to the dynamic topological and contextual changes, and heterogeneous processing capabilities and energy constraints present on the available devices. This paper proposes a service-oriented framework for the execution of context recognition algorithms. We describe and theoretically analyze the performance of the main framework components, including the sensor network organization, service discovery, service graph construction, service distribution and mapping. The theoretical results are followed by the simulation of the proposed framework as a whole, showing the overall cost of dynamically distributing applications on the network