Coordination And Conflict In The Global Apparel Value Chain

The interdisciplinary paradigm of global value chains gives us a baseline understanding of how the $1.3 trillion apparel market is organized. Brands are believed to be largely responsible for industry organization. While there are many case studies of industries like apparel or electronics, they are rarely carried out with an ethnographic sensibility that digs into the interactions of conflict, coordination, and execution. My dissertation takes us inside apparel factories, buying agencies, and textile mills in India. I use organizational theory, economic sociology, and social psychology to gain an intimate understanding of how fashionable objects are anticipated, designed, sourced, planned, constructed, and tested. The chief substantive contribution of the work is the integration of multiple levels of analysis, from the transnational coordination of forecasting down to the micro analysis of assembly lines. Additional findings, like the existence of brokerage networks that mediate design from the global semi-periphery, counter 125 years of academic and political skepticism. At the brand level, again in contrast to existing evidence, I find that differences between luxury and discount brands extend throughout dozens of decisions and quality parameters. Different assessments are partially explained by occupational positioning. Our self-presentations are cut from global cloth

Development of a technological innovation capability assessment model:a case study of manufacturing SMEs in Sialkot, Pakistan

Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs) play an important part in the economy of any country. Initially, a flat management hierarchy, quick response to market changes and cost competitiveness were seen as the competitive characteristics of an SME. Recently, in developed economies, technological capabilities (TCs) management- managing existing and developing or assimilating new technological capabilities for continuous process and product innovations, has become important for both large organisations and SMEs to achieve sustained competitiveness. Therefore, various technological innovation capability (TIC) models have been developed at firm level to assess firms‘ innovation capability level. These models output help policy makers and firm managers to devise policies for deepening a firm‘s technical knowledge generation, acquisition and exploitation capabilities for sustained technological competitive edge. However, in developing countries TCs management is more of TCs upgrading: acquisitions of TCs from abroad, and then assimilating, innovating and exploiting them. Most of the TIC models for developing countries delineate the level of TIC required as firms move from the acquisition to innovative level. However, these models do not provide tools for assessing the existing level of TIC of a firm and various factors affecting TIC, to help practical interventions for TCs upgrading of firms for improved or new processes and products. Recently, the Government of Pakistan (GOP) has realised the importance of TCs upgrading in SMEs-especially export-oriented, for their sustained competitiveness. The GOP has launched various initiatives with local and foreign assistance to identify ways and means of upgrading local SMEs capabilities. This research targets this gap and developed a TICs assessment model for identifying the existing level of TIC of manufacturing SMEs existing in clusters in Sialkot, Pakistan. SME executives in three different export-oriented clusters at Sialkot were interviewed to analyse technological capabilities development initiatives (CDIs) taken by them to develop and upgrade their firms‘ TCs. Data analysed at CDI, firm, cluster and cross-cluster level first helped classify interviewed firms as leader, follower and reactor, with leader firms claiming to introduce mostly new CDIs to their cluster. Second, the data analysis displayed that mostly interviewed leader firms exhibited ‗learning by interacting‘ and ‗learning by training‘ capabilities for expertise acquisition from customers and international consultants. However, these leader firms did not show much evidence of learning by using, reverse engineering and R&D capabilities, which according to the extant literature are necessary for upgrading existing TIC level and thus TCs of firm for better value-added processes and products. The research results are supported by extant literature on Sialkot clusters. Thus, in sum, a TIC assessment model was developed in this research which qualitatively identified interviewed firms‘ TIC levels, the factors affecting them, and is validated by existing literature on interviewed Sialkot clusters. Further, the research gives policy level recommendations for TIC and thus TCs upgrading at firm and cluster level for targeting better value-added markets

Out in the trade : the occupational community of Birmingham's jewellery quarter

The Jewellery Quarter of Birmingham has its base in small interdependent workshop craft production in a long-established location for which the concept of occupational community appeared an appropriate research tool. The ahistorical approach of studies of occupational communities is critically addressed and it is argued that the theory of occupational community can be deployed historically to investigate the particular conditions of the Jewellery Quarter and explain the construction of these over time. The origins of the industry in Birmingham are investigated in detail and the patterns of localisation together with the structure and organisation of the industry in the nineteenth century are analysed. The establishment of the local formal institutions which developed to support the industry is traced. An account is given of redevelopment, refurbishment, and recession in the post-war era. The current location of firms in the area is analysed, together with the organisation of work in the local industry. The occupational community of the Jewellery Quarter is described and analysed. The nature of interdependence, the daily interaction and the role of family are explained. The concept of work-in-leisure is discussed in relation to the Jewellery Quarter. The formal methods of recruitment to the local industry are reviewed against the needs of the local industry, and it is shown how the community itself acts as an informal channel of recruitment. The ambiguities surrounding women's employment in the industry are explored. While women are still concentrated in low-paid, low skilled work, it is argued that historically they have also been present as owners and craftswomen, and the factors which enable this are analysed. The methodology used in the study is detailed and the link between the methodology and concept of occupational community is discussed. In this study the broad use of the theory of occupational community has shown how the historical pattern continues to influence the community. Finally it is argued that the study contributes to the current debate on small firm survival and persistence

The Democratization and Popularization of Luxury

This dissertation examines the nature of luxury and luxury branded products, and the meanings attached to them. This is the first study of its kind as materials, manufacturing, sales and marketing processes are analyzed in relation to the retail environment to establish tiers of luxury relevant in today’s global market. Existing literature about the definitions and implementation of marketing strategies that impact on luxury brands (e.g. Danziger, 2005; Kapferer et al, 2009; and Okonkwo, 2007) demonstrate a lack of clarity as marketeers concentrate on adding value to mass produced products. In essence, terminology is employed, it is argued, that artificially elevates the product by attribution. The dissertation goes on to examine the complexity of the marketing tools used to add value to mass-produced products and a taxonomy of luxury is established to differentiate categories of products. Luxury is a single category that is demonstrably unstable and it is manifested in the changing landscape of the luxury brand market which is considered as part of the fashion cycle where luxury brands continue to extend their product offer to satisfy a continually growing consumer market. Branding has become increasingly important and as a result the proposed taxonomy of the luxury and luxury brands market contributes to a better understanding of the sector. Distinctions are made through the use of three Case Studies (Louis Vuitton, Prada and Tanner Krolle) to address the differences between the luxury and luxury brand markets through the analysis of products within the leather goods category. Thus this dissertation redefines concepts of luxury that are established through new materials, techniques and production methods. Existing definitions of luxury are unstable due to an ever changing cyclical market and are exacerbated by marketing, branding, advertising and mass production. It is important to remove the façade of marketing and branding, despite, or because, of them being powerful forms of communication, in order to provide a perspective that acknowledges the change and importance of fashion business methodologies to ensure business growth. At the same time it is also important to recognize the fundamental significance of luxury brand heritage and the convenient message this sends to the consumer. This work provides an important new platform for future research in terms of a more nuanced debate on luxury in all its guises. Evidence of the broad research potential of this dissertation exists, for example, in the growing demand for luxury and luxury branded products and services of the emerging economies in the BRICS (Brazil, Russia, India, China and South Africa) countries. In addition as the market changes and demands for luxury increases, luxury and luxury brand companies could use this research to connect more meaningfully to their heritage when defining new luxury goods and services. It is evident that concepts of luxury will continue to be defined as part of a complex structure of understanding and interpretation. In light of this, one must not lose sight of the importance of the knowledge of the craftsmen and women and their ability to communicate the intricacies of their skills in order to provoke and challenge the perpetuating luxury debate

U.S.-Mexico Trade: Pulling Together or Pulling Apart?

This report finds little likelihood that a NAFTA, by itself, will lead to the most dismal scenarios. But OTA’s analysis also indicates that market forces alone are not likely to produce the social and economic rewards the heads of both states have promised from a free trade agreement

Managing product variety in international supply chains

In today's business environment, firms increasingly think in the context of a supply chain rather than a single factory and operate globally rather than in a single nation. At the same time, we have also witnessed increasing breadth in product ranges and accelerating rates of new product introduction in the marketplace. While there are potentially strong interrelationships between product variety and international supply chain management, the issues have been addressed separately in the research literature. Owing to this shortfall, this study investigates the issue of product variety in the context of international supply networks. More specifically, the study seeks to gain insights on different types of co-ordination and configuration of international supply network and to more deeply understand the impact of, and the interrelationships between, product variety, supply lead-time and demand uncertainty on the performance of an international supply chain. Empirical and simulation studies have been conducted to fulfil the above objectives. The empirical study involves eleven manufacturing companies in Indonesia, belonging to both Multinational Corporations (MNC) and contract manufacturers, and one company in the UK operating internationally that owns manufacturing units as well as contracting out. The empirical study generated findings on configuration structures, co-ordination policies, and product variety impact and management. Based on their configuration and coordination strategies, MNC supply networks involved in the empirical study can be classified as supply networks that have regional autonomous subsidiaries, regional clusters of subsidiaries and purely global supply network. Contract manufacturers' configurations may change from one selling period to another. More co-ordination efforts are found to be necessary in MNC supply networks compared to contract manufacturer supply networks. Although companies face different challenges with respect to product variety and uncertainties in demand and supply, the evidence shows that product variety principally affects the procurement of materials, as various products require different materials and parts. Product variety also affects production due to the need to conduct set-up activities. To obtain a deeper understanding of the impacts of product variety, supply lead time and demand uncertainty on supply chain performance, a simulation study has been conducted. A simulation model was developed based on the insights obtained from the empirical study. The model represents a three-stage MNC supply network producing consumer goods in discrete manufacturing processes. Product variety is represented in the model by the use of different types of material required at different stages of the production process. An extensive set of simulation experiments concentrated on flow time and inventory performance. Results from the simulation experiments show that increases in product variety extend the average flow time due to the need to conduct set-up activities. The impact of product variety on flow time depends on the severity of set-up and the stage at which variety occurs in the production processes. Variety occurring early in the production process and generating long set-up times has a more pernicious impact on average flow time compared to variety occurring later and requiring shorter set-ups. Supply and demand uncertainty may affect the supply chain performance as it may delay the manufacturing processes. When supply lead-time is subject to uncertainty, materials may not be available at the right time for production. Similarly, demand uncertainty may lead to a situation where the available materials may not be adequate to meet the production requirements. The simulation results show that producing high variety when material delivery time is subject to uncertainty has a damaging impact on the two supply chain performance metrics - flow time and inventory level. The supply chain performance worsens with increasing level of supply uncertainty. Producing high variety when either aggregate-level or product-level demand is subject to uncertainty results in a higher level of inventory and longer average flow time. The worst performance in terms of average flow time and average inventory is evident when the supply chain produces maximum variety and both supply and demand are subject to uncertainty. The simulation study provides a guide to the magnitude of the impact in each case. Findings from the empirical and simulation study are synthesised into a framework for understanding and managing product variety in international supply chains. The framework can be used to understand interrelationships between key factors in managing product variety in international supply networks and to identify potential strategies to mitigate the negative impact of those factors on performance

Managing product variety in international supply chains

In today's business environment, firms increasingly think in the context of a supply chain rather than a single factory and operate globally rather than in a single nation. At the same time, we have also witnessed increasing breadth in product ranges and accelerating rates of new product introduction in the marketplace. While there are potentially strong interrelationships between product variety and international supply chain management, the issues have been addressed separately in the research literature. Owing to this shortfall, this study investigates the issue of product variety in the context of international supply networks. More specifically, the study seeks to gain insights on different types of co-ordination and configuration of international supply network and to more deeply understand the impact of, and the interrelationships between, product variety, supply lead-time and demand uncertainty on the performance of an international supply chain. Empirical and simulation studies have been conducted to fulfil the above objectives. The empirical study involves eleven manufacturing companies in Indonesia, belonging to both Multinational Corporations (MNC) and contract manufacturers, and one company in the UK operating internationally that owns manufacturing units as well as contracting out. The empirical study generated findings on configuration structures, co-ordination policies, and product variety impact and management. Based on their configuration and coordination strategies, MNC supply networks involved in the empirical study can be classified as supply networks that have regional autonomous subsidiaries, regional clusters of subsidiaries and purely global supply network. Contract manufacturers' configurations may change from one selling period to another. More co-ordination efforts are found to be necessary in MNC supply networks compared to contract manufacturer supply networks. Although companies face different challenges with respect to product variety and uncertainties in demand and supply, the evidence shows that product variety principally affects the procurement of materials, as various products require different materials and parts. Product variety also affects production due to the need to conduct set-up activities. To obtain a deeper understanding of the impacts of product variety, supply lead time and demand uncertainty on supply chain performance, a simulation study has been conducted. A simulation model was developed based on the insights obtained from the empirical study. The model represents a three-stage MNC supply network producing consumer goods in discrete manufacturing processes. Product variety is represented in the model by the use of different types of material required at different stages of the production process. An extensive set of simulation experiments concentrated on flow time and inventory performance. Results from the simulation experiments show that increases in product variety extend the average flow time due to the need to conduct set-up activities. The impact of product variety on flow time depends on the severity of set-up and the stage at which variety occurs in the production processes. Variety occurring early in the production process and generating long set-up times has a more pernicious impact on average flow time compared to variety occurring later and requiring shorter set-ups. Supply and demand uncertainty may affect the supply chain performance as it may delay the manufacturing processes. When supply lead-time is subject to uncertainty, materials may not be available at the right time for production. Similarly, demand uncertainty may lead to a situation where the available materials may not be adequate to meet the production requirements. The simulation results show that producing high variety when material delivery time is subject to uncertainty has a damaging impact on the two supply chain performance metrics - flow time and inventory level. The supply chain performance worsens with increasing level of supply uncertainty. Producing high variety when either aggregate-level or product-level demand is subject to uncertainty results in a higher level of inventory and longer average flow time. The worst performance in terms of average flow time and average inventory is evident when the supply chain produces maximum variety and both supply and demand are subject to uncertainty. The simulation study provides a guide to the magnitude of the impact in each case. Findings from the empirical and simulation study are synthesised into a framework for understanding and managing product variety in international supply chains. The framework can be used to understand interrelationships between key factors in managing product variety in international supply networks and to identify potential strategies to mitigate the negative impact of those factors on performance

Knowledge and Management Models for Sustainable Growth

In the last years sustainability has become a topic of global concern and a key issue in the strategic agenda of both business organizations and public authorities and organisations. Significant changes in business landscape, the emergence of new technology, including social media, the pressure of new social concerns, have called into question established conceptualizations of competitiveness, wealth creation and growth. New and unaddressed set of issues regarding how private and public organisations manage and invest their resources to create sustainable value have brought to light. In particular the increasing focus on environmental and social themes has suggested new dimensions to be taken into account in the value creation dynamics, both at organisations and communities level. For companies the need of integrating corporate social and environmental responsibility issues into strategy and daily business operations, pose profound challenges, which, in turn, involve numerous processes and complex decisions influenced by many stakeholders. Facing these challenges calls for the creation, use and exploitation of new knowledge as well as the development of proper management models, approaches and tools aimed to contribute to the development and realization of environmentally and socially sustainable business strategies and practices