ICS Materials. Towards a re-Interpretation of material qualities through interactive, connected, and smart materials.

The domain of materials for design is changing under the influence of an increased technological advancement, miniaturization and democratization. Materials are becoming connected, augmented, computational, interactive, active, responsive, and dynamic. These are ICS Materials, an acronym that stands for Interactive, Connected and Smart. While labs around the world are experimenting with these new materials, there is the need to reflect on their potentials and impact on design. This paper is a first step in this direction: to interpret and describe the qualities of ICS materials, considering their experiential pattern, their expressive sensorial dimension, and their aesthetic of interaction. Through case studies, we analyse and classify these emerging ICS Materials and identified common characteristics, and challenges, e.g. the ability to change over time or their programmability by the designers and users. On that basis, we argue there is the need to reframe and redesign existing models to describe ICS materials, making their qualities emerge

Thermal Absorptivity and Other Thermal Comfort Paramaters of Rib Knitted Fabrics

Cílem této práce je zjistit vliv různých profilů funkčních žebrových pletenin na jejich tepelné vlastnosti jako je tepelná vodivost, tepelná absorpce a tepelný odpor. Práce zahrnuje představení nového modelu pro extrapolaci tepelné absorpce vzhledem k rozdílu v oblasti interakce mezi lidskou kůží a žebrovou pleteninou. Tepelná absorpce je indikátorem pocitu tepla a chladu. Vzorky byly vyrobeny z polyesterové příze. Studie potvrzuje, že změna profilu povrchu žebrové pleteniny má podstatný vliv na její tepelné vlastnosti. Na základě této skutečnosti byl poprvé uveden nový termín tepelná kontaktní absorpce. Tepelná kontaktní absorpce představuje modifikaci tepelné absorpce vzhledem ke kontaktním bodům mezi dvěma povrchy. Stejně tak nově vyvinutý model je v souladu s naměřenými hodnotami. V další části práce je ověřeno, že oblast s vyšší interakcí mezi lidskou kůží a žebrovou pleteninou zvyšuje hodnoty tepelné absorpce. To je převážně způsobeno nárůstem kontaktních míst, která poskytují větší plochu pro přenos tepla kondukcí. Stejně důležité bylo také změřit hodnoty tepelného odporu a tepelné vodivosti. Byla zjištěna korelace mezi tepelným odporem, tepelnou vodivostí a kontaktní plochou. Bylo zjištěno, že existuje významná ekvivalence mezi tepelnými parametry a profilem povrchu. Třicet respondentů dále provedlo subjektivní analýzu pro potvrzení hodnot z objektivního měření. Rovněž byl změřen vliv paralelního a svislého směru na propustnost vodních par. Bylo zjištěno, že směr má významný vliv na propustnost vzduchu a vody. Studie dospěla k závěru, že funkční žebrové pleteniny vyrobené z polyesteru mají u různého profilu povrchu různou tepelnou absorpci. Více kontaktních bodů mezi lidskou kůží a žebrovou pleteninou způsobuje chladivý účinek. To vše bylo studováno na funkčních žebrových pleteninách, které byly vyrobeny na plochém pletacím stroji.The objective of this study is to find out the impact of functional knitted ribs on the thermal properties of fabric such as thermal conductivity, thermal absorptivity and thermal resistance by changing the profile of knitted ribs. Introducing the new model for the extrapolation of thermal absorptivity due to variation in interaction area between human skin and knitted rib fabric. Thermal absorptivity is an indicator of warm-cool feeling. Samples were produced using polyester yarn. Study endorses that variation in surface profile has a substantial impact on thermal parameters. Based on this discussion a new term thermal contact absorptivity was coined and introduced first time. Thermal contact absorptivity indicates modification in thermal absorptivity due to contact points between two surfaces. Likewise, model developed using a novel approach, has an extensive agreement with measured values. Going-over further, verifies that higher interaction area between human skin and knitted rib escalates the thermal absorptivity values. It is predominantly due to the increase in contact points, which provides more area for heat transfer through conduction. Equally important, thermal resistance and thermal conductivity values were also measured and a correlation was developed between thermal resistance, thermal conductivity and contact area. It was found that there is a significant equivalence between thermal parameters and surface profile. Subjective analysis was also conducted by involving a group of 30 people for the confirmation of objective values. Impact of parallel and vertical direction on water vapour permeability was also measured and found that there is a significant impact of direction on air and water permeability. Study concludes that knitted rib made using polyester having discriminated surface profile provides a different thermal absorptivity. Higher contact points between human skin and knitted rib fabric gives cool effect which were investigated on functional ribs which were produced on flat knitting machine

Laser textile design: the development of laser dyeing and laser moulding processes to support sustainable design and manufacture

This research developed new creative opportunities for textile design by investigating CO2 laser processing technology to achieve surface design and three-dimensional effects. A practice based and interdisciplinary textile design methodology was employed, integrating scientific and technical approaches with a reflective craft practice. It was found that the synthesis of design and science was imperative to achieving the research goal of evolving techniques that have opened new design opportunities for textile design whilst being viable and communicable for industrial and commercial application. Four distinct Laser Textile Design techniques were developed in this research including: a laser enhanced dyeing technique for wool and wool blends; Peri-Dyeing, a laser dye fixation technique; a laser moulding technique; and a laser fading linen technique. [Continues.

The tactile triangle: a design research framework demonstrated through tactile comparisons of textile materials

Tactile experiences of textile materials are difficult to communicate and elicit. To interrogate this space we propose the tactile triangle, a framework to facilitate systematic analysis and comparison of tactile experiences. The three levels reflect different aspects of tactile experience and possible methods to capture them: physical properties, in which human senses or objective testing measure fabric properties; the perceptual space level in which triadic comparisons reveal combinations of various dimensions which capture and describe tactile experiences; and finally the communication level, in which design games elicit languages communicating tactile perceptions. A case study illustrates the frameworks use to compare the tactile experiences of textiles in experts and consumers. The results show expert and consumer perceptions overlapped and correlated well to objective measures except in the perception of temperature. We conclude by discussing the frameworks effectiveness, the contribution of individual methods, and its potential as a communication tool for designers

Surface Functionalization of Fabrics and Threads for Smart Textiles

The future of electronics is moving toward wearable devices and therefore requires a shift away from hard, inflexible materials towards fibers, threads, and fabrics that conform to the shape of the body. Therefore new methods for incorporating textiles as electronic components are needed to replace conventional processing techniques used with smooth, flat substrates like glass, silicon, and many polymers. Toward this end, this work investigates different methods that can be used to tune textile surfaces for electronic functionality, including weaving, solution grafting, and initiated chemical vapor deposition (iCVD). While all of these methods were used to make triboelectrically-active textiles, iCVD combined with simple solution chemistry was also used to synthesize ionically conductive thin films on textiles for solid-state electrolytes. In general these methods elucidate facile pathways towards smart clothing fabrication

The Application of Auxetic Structures for Rugby Shoulder Padding

Auxetic materials have a negative Poisson’s ratio (NPR), they laterally expand under stretch, laterally shrink under compression and conform to curved surfaces through the formation of synclastic curvature. It was identified that these qualities could enhance the current standard of personal protective equipment (PPE) often embedded within sports apparel (sPPE) at regions of the body exposed to soft tissue injury through collision, fall or impact. Current pads can inhibit movement, breathability and wicking, whilst moulded pads are prone to saddling; segmentation techniques including vacuum moulding and cut segmenting are applied to improve the conformability of padding. It is unclear as to whether the impact performance of auxetic sPPE is affected under a state of synclastic curvature or biaxial expansion and as such sPPE applications are limited to date. User-centred design strategies for functional clothing have not yet been established for sPPE with auxetic elements, this could improve accessibility for implementation by pad designers. Therefore, this research set out to determine strategies for the application of auxetic sPPE with enhanced conformability. In order to achieve the overall aims of this research a multi-method research strategy was employed investigating the problem first through the user and product. A quantitative survey was designed to assess user perceptions of commercial rugby shoulder padding comfort. Commercial rugby shoulder padding featuring different segmentation types were assessed for conformability to the shoulder region through fit and pressure comfort measurements. Following this the research investigated how auxetic structures of different geometries could enhance the conformability of rugby shoulder padding. Data collection included pressure comfort assessments, impact tests over curved surfaces and lateral expansion of pads through tensile displacement and fitting pads to a mannequin. A user-perception survey of commercial rugby shoulder pads found that fit and protection were the most important of six realms of respondents perceived comfort. iii Current regulations for rugby shoulder padding suggest that pads must not hinder comfort and mobility yet only stipulate test methods for impact protection. The commercial rugby pads provided poor pressure comfort and conformability across the different types of segmentation and segment (unit cell) shapes. It was also identified that poor conformability was of detriment to product function where pads moved out of position. The findings from the survey and product analysis showed that the main cause of poor fit and pressure comfort was padding bulkiness caused by larger circumferences and less conforming segmentation techniques. Cutsegmented pads provided the best route to conformability but none of the pads provided the ideal pressure comfort range identified for this research. Rugby shoulder pads were cut-segmented with different auxetic structures and following this manipulation of an auxetic geometry was investigated. It was found that sPPE with auxetic elements conformed to curvatures and expanded laterally compared to the non-auxetic alternative. Parameters for use were identified including that opening consistency of the individual auxetic geometries had potential to affect sPPE function. Auxetic geometries in an arrangement of singular cuts had the most consistent opening mechanism throughout the pad when subject to a tensile load. Additionally, the manipulation of an auxetic geometry showed that anisotropy can be applied to offer higher displacement in specific directions, which may have use for sPPE not subject to rotational forces such as knee pads. It was also found that increasing the difference between rib (unit cell wall) length and separation between ribs led to the auxetic structure opening out less, which could be applied at specific regions of a pad that require restriction. The findings of this research showed that auxetic structures could be manipulated for different sPPE applications. A recommended strategy for development of sPPE with auxetic elements was presented, influenced by user-centred design strategies. The first stage of the strategy focused on defining the problem via the user, sport, body region and product. Ideation of possible solutions formed the second stage, by assessing manipulations of auxetic geometry in relation to requirements of the user, product, sport and body region, and was repeated until the product was found to provide a solution to the defined problem; implementation completed stage 3

Resources Protection: Towards Replacement of Cotton Fiber with Polyester

L'abstract è presente nell'allegato / the abstract is in the attachmen

PREDICTING HAPTIC PERCEPTION OF TEXTILE TEXTURE AND ANALYSIS BETWEEN SMOOTH-ROUGH PREFERENCES THROUGH IMAGES

Digital images of textile surfaces often trigger assumptions about their actual tactile properties. For any given textile cloth sample, visually perceived tactile properties may not always match with actual haptic sensations. But many decisions related to textiles, right from their manufacturing to end use stages, are often taken on the basis of visual perceptions alone. Smooth-rough modalities are a significant tactile property that influences such decisions. This paper examines “look and feel” and “touch and feel” impressions triggered by human haptic interactions with textiles. Smooth-rough perceptions obtained from high resolution and full images of textile samples were compared with actual haptic sensations derived from the same samples. A three phase experiment was conducted followed by a semi-structured interview with the participants and the results were statistically analyzed. The results indicate that there is a strong positive correlation between high-resolution image and real cloth haptic perception