Fine Lines: cosmetic advertising and the perception of ageing beauty

Fine Lines is a study investigating the language used in adverts for female facial cosmetics (excluding makeup) in UK Vogue magazine. The study queries whether this has been affected by the introduction and rise in popularity of minimally invasive aesthetic procedures to alleviate the signs of facial ageing. The contemporary cultural landscape is explored: this includes the ubiquitous nature of advertising as well as the growth of the skincare market. Emergent thematic analysis of selected advertisements showed a change in the language used before the introduction of the aesthetic procedures (1992 and 1993) compared with later years (2006 and 2007). We have noted a decline in numbers of advertisements within some themes (nourishing in particular showed a marked fall in number of mentions) while others have shown increases (those offering protection against UV radiation and pollution increased by 50% in the later data set). The remaining thematic categories were relatively constant over the period of study, though the emphasis shifted within the themes over time. This article concludes by asserting that the language has changed, that the vocabulary has become more inventive and that skincare products appear to be marketed as complementary to cosmetic procedures. In addition, some of the products appear to be being marketed as luxury items, something to be bought because owning and using it gives you pleasure and bestows prestige on the owner

Skin deep. Perceptions of human and material ageing and opportunities for design

In Western society there is an obsession, fuelled by pervasive advertising, with hiding the effects of ageing and maintaining skin that exudes ‘youthful perfection’. Rapid unsustainable purchasing and disposal of mass-produced objects is, in part, driven by ‘cosmetic obsolescence’ - changes to the pristine material surface which are perceived as damage and degradation. We consider the parallels between these attitudes to changes in material surfaces and human ageing, and propose that actively considering future material change in product design could increase product longevity with both environmental and social benefit

Trends in nonresident abortion rates in New York City from 2005 to 2015: a time series analysis

Abstract OBJECTIVES: To examine trends and utilization patterns of NYC abortion services by nonresidents since growing abortion restrictions across many states could drive women to seek care in less restrictive jurisdictions including NYC. STUDY DESIGN: We used data from Induced Termination of Pregnancy certificates filed with the NYC Department of Health and Mental Hygiene in 2005-2015. An autoregressive integrated moving average (ARIMA) model was fit to the monthly nonresident abortion rate time series. Pearson\u27s χ2 tests determined associations between women\u27s residence and other variables. RESULTS: During 2005-2015, 885,816 abortions were reported in NYC, with 76,990 (8.7%) among nonresidents; 50,211 (65.2%) nonresidents lived in other New York State counties. The NYC abortion rate declined from 49.4 per 1000 women 15-44 in 2005 to 32.7 in 2015, while the nonresident rate showed minimal change from 0.12 per 1000 US women 15-44 in 2005 to 0.10 in 2015. ARIMA(0,1,1)(0,0,1) [12]fit the time series indicating minimal monthly changes in nonresident rates reflecting seasonal patterns and shorter-term dependencies between successive observations. Nonresidents differed from residents in all investigated variables including terminating at 20+ weeks (9.0% vs. 2.5%, p CONCLUSIONS: Nonresidents constituted few abortion patients in NYC with minimal change in nonresident rates in 2005-2015. Nonresidents more often sought later-term abortions and more complicated procedures posing greater associated costs/risks. Monitoring nonresident abortion trends and utilization patterns is valuable for planning local service delivery particularly in jurisdictions committed to providing comprehensive women\u27s healthcare where nonresidents may increasingly seek abortions. IMPLICATIONS: While we found limited change in nonresident abortion rates in NYC in 2005-2015, other jurisdictions bordering more restrictive states could show different results and should consider conducting similar research. Such analyses are important in jurisdictions committed to providing comprehensive women\u27s healthcare where nonresidents may increasingly seek abortions in the future

Determinants of Severe Maternal Morbidity and Its Racial/Ethnic Disparities in New York City, 2008–2012

Objectives Severe maternal morbidity (SMM) is an important indicator for identifying and monitoring efforts to improve maternal health. Studies have identified independent risk factors, including race/ethnicity; however, there has been limited investigation of the modifying effect of socioeconomic factors. The study aims were to quantify SMM risk factors and to determine if socioeconomic status modifies the effect of race/ethnicity on SMM risk. Methods We used 2008–2012 NYC birth certificates matched with hospital discharge records for maternal deliveries. SMM was defined using an algorithm developed by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. Mixed-effects logistic regression models estimated SMM risk by demographic, socioeconomic, and health characteristics. The final model was stratified by Medicaid status (as a proxy for income), education, and neighborhood poverty. Results Of 588,232 matched hospital deliveries, 13,505 (229.6 per 10,000) had SMM. SMM rates varied by maternal age, birthplace, education, income, pre-existing chronic conditions, pre-pregnancy weight status, trimester of prenatal care entry, plurality, and parity. Race/ethnicity was consistently and significantly associated with SMM. While racial differences in SMM risk persisted across all socioeconomic groupings, the risk was exacerbated among Latinas and Asian-Pacific Islanders with lower income when compared to white non-Latinas. Similarly, living in the poorest neighborhoods exacerbated SMM risk among both black non-Latinas and Latinas. Conclusions for Practice SMM determinants in NYC mirror national trends, including racial/ethnic disparities. However, these disparities persisted even in the highest income and educational groups suggesting other pathways are needed to explain racial/ethnic differences

Hair ageing and quality of life for women of African descent living in the UK

This study explored the age-related changes to hair management and styling techniques and related measures of satisfaction and quality of life (QoL) of women of African and Afro-Caribbean descent of age over 60 living in the UK. An online survey, including a QoL questionnaire was conducted (n=46).86.9% of the survey participants were between 60 and 69 years old, whilst the remaining group were between 70 and 80 years old. All identified their natural hair as curl type 6,7,8, with curl type 6 being most common n=16. 78% reported completely natural hair (shorter than 10cm=21; longer than 10cm=15). A preference towards natural styles past menopause was demonstrated with hair length, texture and colour being associated with positive attitudes. However, the perception of decreased hair manageability could be related to the requirement to complete more haircare and hairstyling tasks at home and more frequently than if the hair was subjected to long-lasting styling techniques such as relaxing or weaving. Overall, these changes to appearance, styling and personal effort increased satisfaction with hair but had no impact on the quality of life of the participants

Hair ageing in Black women (age>59): impact on personal and social identity and subjective wellbeing

This interdisciplinary study explores the evolution of hair management practices of Black women from age-related biological, personal and social perspectives. It seeks to clarify if and how any changes impact the subjective wellbeing of women. The study focuses on Black women living in the UK who are 59 years old and over as biological changes to hair become more prominent after menopause. The study contributes to raising the visibility of this group of women who appear underrepresented in the research fields of hair science, well-being and ageing as well as in the media

Fine Lines: Cosmetic advertising and the perception of ageing beauty

Despite the rapid ageing of Western populations and preponderance of older people in society, older people, particularly women, still perceive the need to retain a youthful appearance. Thus 43% of women questioned by Mintel (2012) considered looking young to be highly important. Moreover, with an apparently youth-obsessed media constantly reinforcing the negative aspects of ageing, it is no surprise that there is a strong market for products which claim to slow, or even stop, the ageing process. As science comes to a greater understanding of the ageing process, more and more sophisticated “anti-ageing” products and treatments have been developed. The pace of change quickened with the licensing in 2002 of botulinum toxin A (BotoxBotox™, Allergan, United States) for the reduction of facial wrinkles, followed in 2005 by Restylane® (Medicis Aesthetics Inc., United States), the first of the injectable fillers containing hyaluronic acid, which can replace facial volume lost due to age. This is the contemporary cultural background that forms the background for our research that has investigated cosmetic advertising and its putative role in shaping our expectations and understandings of age and ageing. The authors will present findings from their analysis of the changes in the language of advertising before and after these transformational developments in aesthetic dermatology. The exciting and provocative paper will stimulate new perspectives on the role of the body and beauty in later life and above all present a critical review concerning some of the ways in which ‘age’ is marketed in the 21st century

Fine Lines: Representations of ageing

Despite the rapid ageing of western populations and preponderance of older people in society, older people, particularly women, still perceive the need to retain a youthful appearance. Thus 43% of women questioned by Mintel (2012) considered looking young to be highly important. Moreover, with an apparently youth-obsessed media constantly reinforcing the negative aspects of ageing, it is no surprise that there is a strong market for products which claim to slow or even stop, the ageing process. As science comes to a greater understanding of the ageing process, more and more sophisticated “anti-ageing” products and treatments have been developed. The pace of change quickened with the licensing in 2002 of botulinum toxin A (Botox ™, Allergan, United States) for reduction of facial wrinkles, followed in 2005 by Restylane ™ (Medicis Aesthetics Inc., United States), the first of the injectable fillers containing hyaluronic acid, which can replace facial volume lost due to age. This is the contemporary cultural background that forms the background to this talk. The objective of the talk is to investigate cosmetic advertising and its putative role in shaping our expectations and understanding of age and ageing. Results from before and after theses transformational developments in aesthetic dermatology will be presented. The aim of the paper is to stimulate new perspectives on the role of the body and beauty in later life and above all to present a critical review concerning some of the ways in which ‘age’ is marketed and represented in the 21st century

All made up: The role of make-up for women in later life

This in-depth qualitative study examines the role played by facial cosmetics or make-up in the (re)creation and expression of self-image and identity for six older, white women. Although there has been increasing interest in notions of appearance management and body image creation as these relate to older women, there have been few studies that specifically investigate the role and function of make-up for this cohort. This study, albeit small-scale is nonetheless rich and illuminative. It is contextualized by a detailed literature review which provides important historical and contemporary background to the in-depth interviews, that were conducted with older women. The themes of ritual, self-presentation and change that emerge from our results characterize the relationship of these older women with their make-up. Make-up for our interviewees was used as a source of comfort and for personal enjoyment, as well as to look good, rather than to attract the male gaze or as a means to resist ageing. The older women at the centre of this study use make-up in ways that may be considered ritualized, and it was associated with the expression and performance of their identity. Make-up was thus found to be central to the creation of the women’s self-image; all interviewees felt more confident about facing the world when made-up. Rather than being a mask behind which the women hide, for these women make-up is an essential part of who they are and a means of expressing their identities