STRETCH FABRICS IN LEATHER MANUFACTURING: PERFORMANCE PROPERTIES OF STRECH LEATHERS

Product variability of manufactured leather goods such as garment leathers could be closely related to the wear comfort because each material forming the garments are affected the comfort properties of the products. Considering the significant demand to elastic woven stretch fabrics and the advantages provided to leather goods like allowing easy body movements, well-fitting and keeping the shape make the use of stretch fabrics focus in interest. In this study, the performance properties of stretch leathers, leathers and spandex fabrics were presented and the differences between the characteristic properties of the leathers were described. For this purpose, physical characteristics of leathers were investigated in terms of thickness, weight, drape ability, stiffness, bending stiffness, air and water vapor permeability. The drape ability, stiffness and bending stiffness properties were significantly affected by the stretch fabrics laminated on the suede side of the leathers. The drape ability, stiffness and bending values were increased due to the implementation of stretch fabrics. There was no significant difference between the air permeability values of the leathers prior and after the implementation of stretch fabrics in contrast to water vapor permeability. The results of this study showed that the aesthetic behavior of clothing materials such as drape and stiffness properties as well as water vapor permeability was mainly affected from the implementation of the stretch fabrics

SEWABILITY PROPERTIES OF GARMENT LEATHERS TANNED WITH VARIOUS TANNING MATERIALS

Chromium tannage is the most used technology in processing of garment leathers. Due to environmental requirements and demands on natural products there is an increasing interest on alternatives to chromium tannage especially on vegetable tanned leathers. Leather properties vary in a very wide range depending on the animal type it is obtained from and the process type and chemicals used in the manufacturing. In this study, the effect of various tanning materials to the sewability of garment leathers was investigated. For this purpose, vegetable, chromium and chromium-vegetable combination tanned garment leathers from the same animal origin were supplied from a garment leather manufacturing factory. Needle penetration force and the sewability values of these leathers were determined by using L&M Sewability Tester. It was found that material properties and sewing properties showed differences regarding to the tanning material used even in same type of raw material. Chromium tanned leathers had sewability values of 13.4% horizontal and 14.2% vertical which are considered good to fair. Vegetable tanned leathers and chromium-vegetable tanned leathers had sewability values of 38.2% horizontal, 49.2% vertical and 98% horizontal, 98.5% vertical respectively which are considered poor. The results of the study conclude that, there is a big difference in material properties when the tanning technology and material is changed which also affects the sewing properties

An investigation on usability of 3D visualization and simulation programs in leather apparel

Three-dimensional (3 D) visualization and simulation programs cannot be used in leather apparel companies prevalently due to the lack of leather material information in the databases. In this study, the properties of different types of leather and fabrics are determined with certain standards and alternatively with FAST (Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing) system, interpreted and defined in the database of Vidya 3 D program. The two-dimensional (2 D) garment patterns prepared in the Assyst CAD program were transferred to the 3 D program, and dress simulations were performed on the virtual mannequin by using the newly defined materials. The sewn dresses and simulations were evaluated by a jury considering similarity success. It has been found that Vidya 3 D program can simulate model and material behaviors realistically by using the data obtained from the FAST system, however, it does not demonstrate the drape parameter precisely, and the software should be improved for this direction.Ege University Scientific Research Projects Coordination [15 MUH 028]The authors would like to thank to Ege University Scientific Research Projects Coordination (Project No: 15 MUH 028) and Amsterdam University of Applied Sciences, Amsterdam Fashion Institute

A STUDY ON USING 3D VISUALIZATION AND SIMULATION PROGRAM (OPTITEX 3D) ON LEATHER APPAREL

Leather is a luxury garment. Design, material, labor, fitting and time costs are very effective on the production cost of the consumer leather good. 3D visualization and simulation programs which are getting popular in textile industry can be used for material, labor and time saving in leather apparel. However these programs have a very limited use in leather industry because leather material databases are not sufficient as in textile industry. In this research, firstly material properties of leather and textile fabric were determined by using both textile and leather physical test methods, and interpreted and introduced in the program. Detailed measures of an experimental human body were measured from a 3D body scanner. An avatar was designed according to these measurements. Then a prototype dress was made by using Computer Aided Design-CAD program for designing the patterns. After the pattern making, OptiTex 3D visualization and simulation program was used to visualize and simulate the dresses. Additionally the leather and cotton fabric dresses were sewn in real life. Then the visual and real life dresses were compared and discussed. 3D virtual prototyping seems a promising potential in future manufacturing technologies by evaluating the fitting of garments in a simple and quick way, filling the gap between 3D pattern design and manufacturing, providing virtual demonstrations to customers

THE BEST SUPPLIER SELECTION BY USING ANALYTIC HIERARCHY PROCESS (AHP) AND FUZZY COMPREHENSIVE EVALUATION (FCE) METHODS: AN EXAMPLE OF A TURKISH LEATHER APPAREL COMPANY

WOS: 000419066800001Today's tough competitive conditions require managing companies' supply chain management more effectively to protect the competitiveness in the field of leather apparel as in every sector. The selection of the most suitable suppliers for the company's expectations and criteria is an important decision problem in the management of this chain. In the scope of this study, a Turkish leather apparel company was selected and a field survey was carried out on leather supply by the participation of the purchasing managers of this company. Analytic Hierarchy Process (AHP) and Fuzzy Comprehensive Evaluation (FCE) methods were utilized for the analysis of the obtained data. Logical and consistent results were obtained and the most suitable supplier to the company criterion is determined by combining the advantages of both methods. Furthermore, some conclusions and recommendations for the company and the industry were manifested

Designing a jacket for motorcycle drivers by combination of leather and denim

In the wake of the development of apparel sector and the increase in consumer demands, designing clothes aimed at their intended use has gained importance. Visual and aesthetic designs in line with fashion trends, as well as clothes that can meet technical requirements are used in numerous fields and there are many studies carried out on developing these technical textiles. Many clothes, examples of which could be given as those designed for firemen, swimmers and dancers, should have distinctive properties depending on their field of use and intended use, and should provide the user with protection and convenience in occupation. For motorcycle clothes, leather is usually preferred as material, however leather is an expensive material. In this study, materials of denim fabric and leather have been investigated in terms of cost and air permeability. Designing a reasonable motorcycle driver jacket is aimed. Thus, a leather-denim combination jacket has been designed, consisted of front and shoulders parts which are mostly exposed to wind, made up of leather material and other parts made up of denim fabric. The cost of this jacket has been assessed, comparing it to that of a full leather jacket, and a new product has been developed that could perform a similar function at a much cheaper price.&nbsp

COMPARATIVE STUDY ON THE LIGHT FASTNESS PROPERTIES OF DIFFERENT WHITE TANNING AGENTS

7th International Conference on Advanced Materials and Systems -- OCT 18-20, 2018 -- Bucharest, ROMANIAWOS: 000464905000042The main causes of leather goods damage is fading as well as the damages caused by sweat and body grease, mechanical deformation and ageing. Tanning agents have varied efficiency on the UV durability and stabilization of collagen. It is because they have different bond strengths and binding mechanisms with leather. In this study, light fastness properties of the leathers tanned with the most commonly used white tanning agents were aimed to evaluate by using ATLAS XENOTEST ALPHA+ test instrument according to ISO 105-B02 standard test method and the leathers tanned with chromium tanning agent were used as a comparison. Blue wool test references were evaluated according to grey scale, and the evaluation of the color change for the tanned and dyed leathers against UV application of an artificial light source representative of natural daylight was carried out. In addition to light fastness test, colorimetric measurements of the treated samples and color changes before and after the UV application were also spectrophotometrically determined by Konica Minolta CM-3600d test device. The results showed that chromium tanned leathers provided the best light fastness results compared to other leathers tanned with white tanning materials. Zirconium and phosphonium tanned leathers had the same values and better than aluminum and vegetable tanned leathers.Minist Res & Innovat, Natl Res & Dev Inst Textile & Leather, Div Leather & Footwear Res InstEge University Scientific Research Project Department DirectorateEge University [17MUH007]; Turkey Prime Ministry State Planning OrganizationTurkiye Cumhuriyeti Kalkinma Bakanligi [07DPT001]The authors would like to thankEge University Scientific Research Project Department Directorate (Project No: 17MUH007) for financial support and Turkey Prime Ministry State Planning Organization (07DPT001) for equipment support. Also the authors would like to thank to Tezcan Leather (Usak, Turkey) for providing the pickled sheepskins