Contribution of fibre to the visual perception of fabric roughness

Hrapavost je mjera teksture površine tkanina, koja nikad nije savršeno glatka. Općenito, ovisi o karakteristikama vlakana, finoći pređe, broju uvoja na pređi i strukturi tkanine (gustoći taknine u smjeru osbove i potke te vezu tkanine). Tekstura kao složeniji spoj osjeta opipa i vida, može se istraživati bilo mehaničkim metodama, putem sile trenja ili optičkim metodama. Svrha ovoga istraživanja je odrediti do kojeg stupnja finoća vlakana utječe na vizualnu percepciju teksture tkanina, kod subjektivne ocjene i upotrebom analize slike tkanina. Ispitivanje je pokazalo da hrapavost tkanina raste s porastom finoće upotrijebljenih vlakana, a može se utvrditi korištenjem osjetljivih optičkih metoda, dok se oči nisu u stanju da razaznaju ovu razliku.Roughness is a measure of the surface texture of fabrics, which is never ideally smooth. In general, it depends upon fibre properties, yarn count, yarn twist, and fabric structure (weft and warp density, as well as fabric design). Texture as a complex of sight and touch can be investigated by either mechanical methods, through friction or optical methods. The aim of this research is to determine the degree to which fibre count influences the visual perception, firstly by subjective evaluation and then by image analysis. The research showed that optical methods are sensitive enough to distinguish the increase of fabric roughness coming from increased fibre count, while human eyes are unable to make a distinction

Contribution of fibre to the visual perception of fabric roughness

Hrapavost je mjera teksture površine tkanina, koja nikad nije savršeno glatka. Općenito, ovisi o karakteristikama vlakana, finoći pređe, broju uvoja na pređi i strukturi tkanine (gustoći taknine u smjeru osbove i potke te vezu tkanine). Tekstura kao složeniji spoj osjeta opipa i vida, može se istraživati bilo mehaničkim metodama, putem sile trenja ili optičkim metodama. Svrha ovoga istraživanja je odrediti do kojeg stupnja finoća vlakana utječe na vizualnu percepciju teksture tkanina, kod subjektivne ocjene i upotrebom analize slike tkanina. Ispitivanje je pokazalo da hrapavost tkanina raste s porastom finoće upotrijebljenih vlakana, a može se utvrditi korištenjem osjetljivih optičkih metoda, dok se oči nisu u stanju da razaznaju ovu razliku.Roughness is a measure of the surface texture of fabrics, which is never ideally smooth. In general, it depends upon fibre properties, yarn count, yarn twist, and fabric structure (weft and warp density, as well as fabric design). Texture as a complex of sight and touch can be investigated by either mechanical methods, through friction or optical methods. The aim of this research is to determine the degree to which fibre count influences the visual perception, firstly by subjective evaluation and then by image analysis. The research showed that optical methods are sensitive enough to distinguish the increase of fabric roughness coming from increased fibre count, while human eyes are unable to make a distinction

Tekstilni otpad kao materijal za toplinsku izolaciju

Toplinsko-izolacijski materijali omogućuju uštedu toplinske energije. Na europskim tržištima prevladavaju klasični izolacijski materijali (kamena vuna i polistiren), a nastojanja istraživača su usmjerena na poboljšanje njihove učinkovitosti i razvitak novih izolacijskih materijala i sustava. Njihova kvaliteta se ocjenjuje s obzirom na njihova fi zikalna svojstva, utjecaj na okoliš I čovjeka, lakoću montiranja i cijene. U ovom radu dizajniran je materijal za toplinsku izolaciju krovne konstrukcije i unutarnje gips-kartonske pregrade od otpada od krojenja, i ispitana je njegova toplinska vodljivost (W/mK). Rezultati pokazuju toplinsku vodljivost 0,05198 - 0,06032 (W/mK), koja se može usporediti s vrijednostima standardnih izolacijskih materijala i s izolacijskim materijalima od tekstila, odnosno tekstila u vlaknastom stanju. Ključne riječi: otpad od krojenja, izolacijski materijali, toplinska vodljivost, toplinska izolacij

Textile waste as a thermal insulation material

Toplinsko-izolacijski materijali omogućuju uštedu toplinske energije. Na europskim tržištima prevladavaju klasični izolacijski materijali (kamena vuna i polistiren), a nastojanja istraživača su usmjerena na poboljšanje njihove učinkovitosti i razvitak novih izolacijskih materijala i sustava. Njihova kvaliteta se ocjenjuju s obzirom na njihova fizikalna svojstva, utjecaj na okoliš i čovjeka, lakoću montiranja i cijene. U ovom radu dizajniran je materijal za toplinsku izolaciju krovne konstrukcije i unutarnje gips-karton pregrade od konfekcijskog otpada, i ispitana je njegova toplinska vodljivost (W/mK). Rezultati pokazuju toplinsku vodljivost 0,05198 - 0,06032 (W/mK), koja se može usporediti s vrijednostima standardnih izolacijskih materijala i s izolacijskim materijalima od tekstila, odnosno tekstila u vlaknastom stanju.S. Jordeva*, E. Tomovska. **, D. Trajković***, K. Zafirova ** Thermal insulation materials provide thermal energy savings. Classic insulation materials (stone wool and polystyrene) dominate the European market, but researchers’ efforts are aimed towards improving their efficiency and developing new insulation materials. They are evaluated according to their physical properties, effect on people and the environment, installation difficulty and price. In this paper a material for thermal insulation of roof construction and internal walls has been designed from apparel cutting waste and its thermal conductivity (W/mK) has been determined. The results show a thermal conductivity of 0.05198-0.06032 (W/mK), comparable to the conductivity of standard insulation materials and insulation materials in the form of textile fibers

Total design for textile products

Product development is less than 20-30 years old and a relatively new area of research compared to the other classic academic disciplines. Integrated product development is a philosophy that systematically employs the teaming of functional disciplines to integrate and concurrently apple all the necessary processes to produce an effective and efficient product that satisfies customer needs. Product development might also be understood as a multidisciplinary field of research. The disciplines directly participating in product development include engineering design, innovation, manufacturing, marketing and management. A background contribution is also generated by disciplines such as psychology, social sciences and information technology. This article is an overview that introduces this philosophy to textile product development

The influence of structural variations on wool fabrics air permeability

Woven fabrics are materials of a sophisticated structure. Basic structural parameters, the raw material, linear density of warp and weft yarn, number of yarn twist, warp and weft density, warp and weft crimp, as well as weave contribute to the obtained properties of the fabric. Certain basic parameters of the fabric can be controlled directly either during the preparatory processes or during the weaving process itself. There are some important structural parameters, however, for which no direct quan¬titative controls exist. Since all structural parameters are closely interdependent, the lack of direct control results in an imperfect control of the fabric structure. The subject of the investigation was how small variations in semi-worsted wool fabric constructional parameters influence the air permeability, and to which extent they can be controlled in the design process and weaving of fabrics. The experiment showed that yarn count, warp and weft density and warp and weft crimp are highly interrelated, leading to small variations in the fixed sett. The sta¬tistical significance of small variations in the groups of fabrics was confirmed by the analysis of variance. The analysis confirmed that there were no differences in mass, although all other structural parameters differed. Additionally, a post-hoc Bon¬ferroni test showed that the structural parameters of the group of fabrics, which has a practically balanced structure, are always different to those of groups g2 and g3. Fabric alternations done on the same warp, in such a manner to achieve the same mass per square meter, showed that the change in weft yarn count and weft density influenced the fabric structure as a result of the crimp interchange. However, there was not a statistically significant difference among the three groups of fabrics when tested for air permeability

Kvalitativna i kvantitativna analiza konfekcijskog otpada u Makedoniji

Stvaranje tekstilnog otpada je direktno zavisno od masovnosti proizvodnje tekstila. Veća proizvodnja znači više otpada. Iz Makedonije se izvozi mesečno oko 1.400.000 komada odeće, koji za sobom ostavljaju velike količine krojnog otpada u odnosu na veličinu i broj stanovnika u zemlji. Ova analiza je preduslov za bilo kakvu inicijativu o recikliranju ovog otpada, koji je nov, čist i zadržanih fizičko-mehaničkih osobina. Ključne reči: konfekcijski otpad, upravljanje otpadom, reciklaža

Contribution of texture to aesthetic properties

The subjective perception of beauty plays a key role in the purchasing decision. This paper investigates the texture properties of knitted single jersey pantyhose fabrics, by defining the degree to which difference in texture can be subjectively accessed, as well as the contribution of texture to the aesthetic properties. Subjective evaluation was conducted by a panel of forty untrained evaluators on a sample of nine fabrics with different yarn count and composition. Objective measurement of the fabric texture was carried out by image analysis. The comparison of the objectively and subjectively measured texture showed that the differences in texture due to yarn count variation are visually perceptible, as coarser yarns were found to contribute to smoother texture in both cases. A smooth texture was found to be more appealing to the evaluators

Polyester Apparel Cutting Waste as Insulation Material

Polyester waste is the dominant component of the clothing industry waste stream, yet its recycling in this industry is rarely addressed. This paper proposes using polyester cutting waste as an insulation blanket for roofing and buildings’ internal walls in order to reduce environmental pollution. The designed textile structures used waste cuttings from different polyester fabrics without opening the fabric to fibre. Thermal insulation, acoustic insulation, fire resistance and biodegradation of the new insulation structure were investigated and compared to commercial insulation materials. Standard investigation methods were modified to fit the samples voluminous nature. The coefficient of thermal conductivity ranged between 0.0520 and 0.0603 W/mK. The achieved sound absorption with NRC ranging from 54.71 to 74.77%, surpassing standard commercially used insulators. The insulating structure did not conduct flame, the radius of impaired place was 1.60–2 cm while the depth was 0.4–1.3 cm, and showed lack of biodegradability, with loss of mass ranging from 0 to 0.3%

Investigation on apparel waste management in Macedonia

Theoretically 97% of textile waste can be recycled, which would make the textile industry a waste-free process. Still, in reality the process of textile recycling is faced with numerous challenges. The most important challenges are waste availability, consistency of waste supply and the current market and demand for recycled materials. Bearing in mind the heterogeneity of textile waste cooperation with the textile industry, legislation, adequate resources, hard work and time are necessary to develop energy efficient and cost effective technologies. Apparel cuttings waste is new and clean, therefore not requiring any special treatments before recycling, thus decreasing recycling costs. Besides technology, the sole prerequisite for recycling apparel waste is to collect and sort it by colour and fibre content. The aim of this research is to analyse the current state of apparel waste management in Macedonia, as well as the apparel waste structure. In addition the attitudes of top management for preserving the environment were examined. The analysis can serve as a guide for investigation the possibilities for recycling apparel cutting waste, either in the companies that generate it or in purpose-built recycling companies. The research was conducted through a questionnaire distributed to the top management of Macedonian apparel manufacturers. Structured, multiple-choice questions, with a minimum of 5 and a maximum of 7 alternative answers were used. The questionnaire was distributed to 120 apparel manufacturers in Macedonia, during September 2012. In 66% of cases a personal interviewing method was used, while 34% were distributed via e-mail. From the 120 distributed questionnaires, 86 questionnaires completed by the companies’ top management were used in the analysis. In the Stip region, as the largest apparel production centre, 54 (62.8%) of the companies were located, whereas the remainder were from other regions in the country. The results showed that 65% of the companies were SMEs with up to150 employees, therefore it is not realistic to expect individual investments in recycling capacities, as the quantity of waste is not sufficient for continuous operations. Principally, apparel manufacturers process woven fabrics approximately 42%, cotton and cotton blend fabrics and fabrics with lycra, which dictates the structure of generated waste. Recycling woven fabrics is significantly more difficult than knits. Regarding the fibre content, cotton and cotton blends are suitable for recycling. On the other hand, 60% of fabrics contain lycra, which complicates the recycling process. The analysis shows that apparel cuttings waste can be most appropriately reused in insulation textiles. It is important to emphasis that 98% of the top management of apparel companies had positive attitudes towards preserving the environment