Carbon Dioxide Laser as a Sustainable Method for Producing a Pattern on Denim Fabric: Evaluation of Colour and Durability

Laser treatment of denim fabrics was demonstrated as one of the methods of producing distressed effects and is continuing to attract textile and fashion designers to develop bespoke designs that appeal to all age groups. Two dark shaded indigo-dyed 100% cotton twill fabric with varying weights representing various garment applications were laser treated using a commercially available pulsed CO2 laser of wavelength 10.62�m. Pulses per inch, which is the degree of closeness of laser irradiation, was maintained at 300 and 400 PPI. Treated denim fabrics were evaluated for tensile strength, colour measurements, including colour hue (H), saturation (S), brightness (B), reflectance, K/S (colour yield), CIE L* a* b*, fabric thickness and colourfastness after wash. Results indicated that colour contrast of denim fabric enhanced with the increase in grayscale (tone density) for both the LW (lightweight) and HW (heavyweight) fabrics, mainly at lower laser speed (80%) and higher laser power (40%). At higher grayscale (30% GS), surface fibers charred due to laser and the oxidation of cellulose occurred, causing a distinct yellow tone compared to pristine denim. Fabric tensile strength was affected as grayscale and laser parameters increased, the variation from pristine denim for LW fabric was 40 - 45% at 30% GS, whilst for HW fabric, variation was 25-30%. Colourfastness tests revealed limited colour staining, and it removed charred fibers showing a distinct tone change. This research recommends a combination of fabric and laser parameters to produce patterns without affecting the overall quality of the fabric

The environmental impact of end-of-life PVC flex banners and its potential upcycling opportunities

PVC is used as a raw material for many products, especially in the production of flex banners. PVC flex banners used for advertising or marketing purposes have a short-term use [average up to 45 days]. PVC flex banners are usually annihilated, piled in landfills, incinerated, or buried under the soil, thus causing severe damage to the environment. This systematic literature review highlights the research carried out on this topic over the last two decades and discusses industry practices in producing PVC flex banners, the environmental impact of PVC flex banners due to annihilation, and reuse and recycling methods for PVC flex banners. One of these opportunities is upcycling, which is an important part of the reuse strategy. These flex banners can be reused in the fashion industry as upcycled products [high-value functional and aesthetic products] and accessories through zero-waste fashion production processes [especially used in pattern designing and cutting stages]. These include primarily bags and luggage, apparel, footwear, worker uniforms, and accessory upcycle products. Based on findings from the systematic review, it recommends a conceptual framework that emphasises the impact of end-of-life PVC flex banners and offers ways for reuse that avoid piling in landfills, incineration, and burying these wastes under the soil, reducing the impact on the environment. The studies suggesting the production of upcycling products from end-of-life PVC flex banners by the zero-waste fashion production process have not been sufficiently researched and reported, and they are a novel method of reusing resources

Environmentally friendly and sustainable bark cloth for garment applications: Evaluation of fabric properties and apparel development

Ugandan bark cloth has been recognised by UNESCO as a masterpiece of the ‘Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity’, to protect the knowledge, traditions and livelihoods associated with its production. Bark cloth is a non-woven, fibrous textile that has been produced from the wild fig or mutuba tree (Ficus natalensis) by the Baganda people of southern Uganda for hundreds of years. A typical bark cloth has a rich, terracotta colour and is worn by kings and chiefs during coronations, religious ceremonies and cultural gatherings, as well as for funeral shrouds. Due to the growing awareness and the need to reduce the environmental impact of textiles, there is a pressing rationale to use natural materials or fibres in fashion clothing in recent years as designers and practitioners embrace environmentally sustainable raw materials and promote traditional craftsmanship. Various properties and significance of bark cloth from cultural, ethical, technical and aesthetic perspectives to determine its feasibility as a sustainable fashion textile was explored. The potential of bark cloth specifically in relation to the characteristics of luxury fashion (craftsmanship, quality, rarity, heritage and storytelling), through using techniques that include embroidery, appliqué, gilding, laser cutting, natural dyeing and fusing is highlighted. The bark cloth was investigated for its practical suitability for apparel end use. Various fabric tests were conducted to determine its performance including fabric drape, stiffness, surface morphology, and tearing strength. The bark cloth was subjected to CO2 laser etching and sublimation printing to incorporate surface patterns and attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy [ATR-FTIR] was used to monitor the loss of fibres. Based on the trials, an optimum set of parameters were identified to use laser and sublimation printing. Raw bark cloth was stiff when heat-pressed, so it was fused with various fusible interfacing fabrics [A,B, and C] to enhance drape, texture, handle and strength. Results indicated that bark cloth when fused with woven interfacing [C] improved its strength [warp direction aligned with fabric grain] by approximately six times [330 N] the strength of bark cloth [57 N]. Fabric drape increased marginally [1.0–3.0%] when fusing with the interfacing, however it offered better handle when making the garment. A basic test garment (size 12 female full-sleeve top) was developed with the fused bark cloth that offered good drape and its shape and fit were evaluated on a mannequin. Outcomes indicated that bark cloth could be satisfactorily developed into outer garments with specific treatment

Novel antimicrobial finishing of organic cotton fabrics using nano-emulsions derived from Karanja and Gokhru plants

Plant-based antimicrobial finishing of textiles is comparable in efficacy, can replace synthetic antimicrobial agents, and is environmentally safe and effective. However, developing durable antimicrobial finishes on cotton-based textiles is a challenge. This research reports the development and characterization of nano-emulsions obtained from Karanja [Milletia pinnata] and Gokhru [Pedalium murex Linn] plants. The nano-emulsions were produced using Milletia pinnata, coconut oil, and curry leaves (nano-emulsion 1) and Pedalium murex, coconut oil, and curry leaves (nano-emulsion 2). The nano-emulsions were characterized for their thermal stability, particle size, pH, and percentage add-on. Two different oils, with surfactant (polysorbate) ratios [1:1 and 1:2], were finished on organic cotton fabrics using a batch process. Scanning electron microscopy images were evaluated to determine the surface morphology of the finished fabrics, and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry images of nano-emulsions were studied to determine the specific chemical constituents of nano-emulsions 1 and 2. The finished fabrics were evaluated for their antimicrobial resistance using various gram-positive bacteria [Staphylococcus aureus, Staphylococcus epidermidis], which are found on human skin and cause nosocomial infections, gram-negative bacteria [Escherichia coli and Klebsiella pneumoniae], which cause urinary tract infections, and fungi [Aspergillus niger]. The antimicrobial resistance was in the range of 98.62–99.87%, even after 10 washes, indicating that the finishes were effective and durable. The finished and unfinished fabrics were also evaluated for their performance properties, tensile strength, and moisture vapor transmission rate, and the results indicated good durability and comfort characteristics. Our findings highlight the potential of plant-based antimicrobial agents for durable finishing of cotton textiles with antimicrobial properties, thus preventing the spread of infections

Development of sustainable herbal antimicrobial finish for organic cotton fabrics using Millettia pinnata L. and Pedalium murex

The recent global pandemic has raised awareness of hygiene and increased the need to control the spread of infection through textiles. The textile industry professionals and academics have focussed on developing various antimicrobial and antiviral compounds for textiles. In addition, the use of plant-based antimicrobial compounds is environmentally safe when compared with synthetic chemicals. In this study, we report the extraction of nano-emulsion using a combination of herbal oil - milletia pinnata L., curry leaf, coconut oil and the other combination using pedalium murex, curry leaf, and coconut oil mixture. The oils were extracted using the solvent extraction method, which offered a good yield of 92%. The different oil ratios [1:1 and 1:2] have been extracted and analysed for their effectiveness. Thermal stability (50-60°C) and pH [5-6] was determined to identify the best possible add-on for the chosen fabric structure. 100% organic cotton woven fabrics were treated with herbal nano-emulsion using exhaust method and evaluated for its antimicrobial efficacy [AATCC 100] before and after 10 washes with gram-positive [MRSA – Methicillin-Resistant Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis] and gram-negative bacteria – [Escherichia coli, Klebsiella pneumoniae]. The performance properties of the above-finished fabrics were also evaluated. Antimicrobial results reveal a clear zone of inhibition when treated with both the herbal extracts [Millettia pinnata L. and Pedalium murex], suggesting that herbal nano-emulsions studied in this work is a potential antimicrobial finish for cotton textiles that is sustainable and environmentally safe to use and is biodegradable after usage

Development of Advanced Textile Finishes Using Nano-Emulsions from Herbal Extracts for Organic Cotton Fabrics

The development of textile finishing with improved functional properties has been a growing interest among industry and scientists worldwide. The recent global pandemic also enhanced the awareness amongst many toward improved hygiene and the use of antimicrobial textiles. Generally, natural herbal components are known to possess antimicrobial properties which are green and eco-friendly. This research reports a novel and innovative method of developing and optimising nano-emulsions using two combinations of herbal extracts produced from Moringa Oleifera, curry leaf, coconut oil (nano-emulsion 1) and other using Aegle marmelos with curry leaf and coconut oil (nano-emulsion 2). Nano-emulsions were optimised for their pH, thermal stability, and particle size, and percentage add-on. Organic cotton fabrics (20 and 60 gsm) were finished with nano-emulsions using continuous and batch processes and characterised for their surface morphology using scanning electron microscopy, energy dispersive X-ray (EDX) analysis and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) analysis. The finished fabrics were evaluated for their Whiteness Index, assessed for antimicrobial resistance against Gram-positive (Staphylococcus aureus) and Gram-negative bacteria (Escherichia coli) using AATCC 100 and 147 methods. In addition, fabrics were assessed for their antifungal efficacy (AATCC 30), tensile strength and air permeability. Results suggested that finished organic fabrics with nano-emulsions had antimicrobial resistance, antifungal, wash fastness after 20 washing cycles, and sufficient strength. This novel finishing method suggests that organic cotton fabrics treated with nano-emulsions can be used as a durable antimicrobial textile for healthcare and hygiene textiles

Investigation of natural levels of copper in fungi as protection in wearable textiles for electrically sensitive individuals

Electro-smog from technologies such as Wi-Fi and mobile phones are a ubiquitous part of modern-day living and the incidence of electro hypersensitivity is rising. The growing number of individuals who are sensitive to electromagnetic fields is the forewarning of an emergent dystopia, from symptoms including skin rashes, heart palpitations and headaches to brain fog and attention deficit disorder. Efforts to address such detrimental concerns have become crucial in all sectors including the wearable technology in the fashion industry. To establish a mechanism for neutralizing the potentially harmful effects of manmade radiation, a pilot study was undertaken by this study to hypothesise and test that the hyper-accumulation of copper, in some species of fungi, could be extracted and used as a protective element for the electrically sensitive population in wearable textiles. Three samples of silk, pre-mordanted with alum or pomegranate skins, were treated with an extract of either Shiitake (Lentinula edodes), Blewit (Lepista nuda) or Button mushrooms (Agaricus bisporus). Applied kinesiology (Manual muscle testing) was further employed to determine the change in muscle strength of participants with the treated silk. The results showed that there was a significant difference between muscle strength and the fungi treated silk during exposure to cell phone radiation. Blewit and alum produced a better muscle response, warranting further experimental work with this variant. The study combines traditional and innovative methods of neutralizing electromagnetic fields

Natural Antimicrobial Nano Composite Fibres Manufactured from a Combination of Alginate and Oregano Essential Oil

Alginate is a linear biodegradable polysaccharide polymer, which is bio-renewable and widely used for various biomedical applications. For the next generation of medical textiles, alginate nanofibres are desirable for their use in wound dressings that are biocompatible, sustainable, and abundantly available. This study has developed a unique manufacturing process for producing alginate nanofibres with exceptional antimicrobial properties of oregano essential oil (OEO) as a natural antimicrobial agent. OEO with varying degrees of concentration was incorporated in an aqueous alginate solution. Appropriate materials and electrospinning process parameter selection allowed us to manufacture alginate fibres with a range of diameters between 38 and 105 nm. A unique crosslinking process for alginate nanofibres using extended water soaking was developed. Mechanical characterisation using micro-mechanical testing of nonwoven electrospun alginate/oregano composite nanofibres revealed that it was durable. An extensive antimicrobial study was carried out on alginate/oregano composite nanofibres using a range of Gram-positive (methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) and Listeria monocytogenes) and Gram-negative bacteria (Klebsiella pneumoniae and Salmonella enterica), which are common wound and food pathogens. The results indicated that increasing the concentration of OEO from 2 to 3 wt % showed improved antimicrobial activity against all pathogens, and activity was significantly improved against MRSA compared to a non-alginate-based control disk containing OEO. Therefore, our research suggests that all-natural alginate/oregano nanofibre composite textiles offer a new generation of medical textiles for advanced wound dressing technology as well as for food packaging applications

Application of knitted fabrics in medical textiles

Medical textiles are a growing technical textile sector. Knitted fabrics have many advantages over woven and nonwoven fabrics mainly being able to produce complex structures, simulate human organs, and being conformable to the body. The properties of weft- and warp-knitted structures are critically articulated in the context of medical textile applications. Specific properties of fiber types—biopolymers and nanofibers used for medical textiles—are reviewed. 3D illustrations of knitted structures are provided to enable the reader to understand complex knitted structures. Various examples of medical textile applications have been highlighted, and six different medical textiles (ankle braces, compression stockings, vascular implants, hernia mesh, wound dressings, and 3D spacer fabrics) have been identified for further discussion. The systematic review provides a critical discussion on the current practice and research developments with a specific focus on knitted structures, finishes, and methods used in the designing of devices, and finally, the future trends were highlighted

Advances in encapsulation of organic compounds for biological protective textiles

Humans are surrounded by numerous pathogens, which can cause severe infections and even become a source of death. The world has seen the impact of COVID-19 on the health and economic sector and continues to see the other impact if corrective measures are not taken. Similarly, the impact of bacteria on the human body has increased noticeably over the past few years, and is one of the significant challenges the healthcare sector faces. Therefore it is imperative to focus on the systems through which the impact of pathogens could be reduced. Scientists are rigorously working on the development of biological protective textiles using the encapsulation of organic compounds to protect the user from harmful pathogens. This chapter will review recent advancements in the development of biological protective textiles using encapsulated organic compounds. The fundamentals of micro/nanoencapsulation and the most important encapsulation techniques used for the development of microcapsules loaded with organic compounds (essential oils) will be described. The application of various organic compounds onto textiles through suitable encapsulation techniques will also be discussed. The control-release kinetics with mathematical modeling will be thoroughly discussed to understand the release behaviors of microcapsules. Novel biological protective textiles such as antiviral, antibacterial, antifungal, antioxidant, mosquito repellent, insect repellent, etc., will be reviewed. Finally, the mode of action of essential oils against viruses, pathogens, insects, mosquitoes, and oxidants will be explained