The Basics of Water Waves Theory for Analogue Gravity

This chapter gives an introduction to the connection between the physics of water waves and analogue gravity. Only a basic knowledge of fluid mechanics is assumed as a prerequisite.Comment: 36 pages. Lecture Notes for the IX SIGRAV School on "Analogue Gravity", Como (Italy), May 201

An experimental study of the transformation zone of plunging breakers

A plunging breaker begins its characteristic deformation some distance seaward of the wave breaking point and its behaviour through this transformation has been investigated in the present study. It is shown that a modified version of the linear-theory equation may be used to predict the speed of the wave crest within the transformation zone. Laser anemometer measurements of water-particle velocities show that when the breaking point has been reached the horizontal particle velocity at the crest of a plunging breaker may still be less than the crest speed. © 1980

Waves in Coastal and Estuarine Waters

Wind waves in shallow environments affect the movement of bottom sediment, coastal erosion, and overtopping and breaching of shore defenses and coastal evolution: forming beaches, sandbanks, and ebb shoals in estuaries. Thus, they are important to coastal engineers, offshore operators, and coastal managers. Wave theory is discussed briefly, with reference to some of the extensive literature on this topic. Various processes and phenomena associated with shallow water waves are discussed giving case studies relating to waves on the UK coast, especially Liverpool Bay in the eastern Irish Sea, with a focus on shallow water wave modeling

The tidal range energy potential of the West Coast of the United Kingdom

With concerns mounting over the UK’s energy future and the effects of climate change, it will soon become paramount that all viable sources of renewable energy are fully exploited. This study has examined the scope for reliable and fully predictable tidal electricity generation from the conjunctive operation of 5 major estuary barrages on the West Coast of the UK in an attempt to establish the potential scale of the extractable resources. Two levels of investigation have been undertaken: simple 0-D (‘two-tank’) modelling of barrage energy generation under different operational modes, using the hydraulic characteristics of turbine performance; and 2-D modelling of tidal hydrodynamics over a wide sea area in a computational grid incorporating the barrages with turbines and sluices. It has been demonstrated that more than 33TWh per year of electricity should be attainable, from 22GW of installed capacity, this representing close to 10% of present UK demand