Exploration of Body-to-Pattern Shape and Measurement Relationships for Women\u27s Trouser Patterns found in USA and UK Pattern Drafting Methods: Implications for Garment Fit

Block patterns should accurately reflect the measurements and shape of the individual human form used in their origination to achieve well fitted garments, however, pattern drafting often uses only limited surface measurements and therefore may not be suitably developed to reflect individual forms. Two methods of block drafting (Aldrich, 2008; Joseph-Armstrong, 2010) were selected for investigation of the resultant measurement relationships (ease) and shape relationships between the leg form and drafted trouser pattern

Image analysis as a basis to the design of wheelchair rugby sportswear

Sportswear clothing plays a very important part in athletes’ performance. Inappropriate fit puts at risk not only the outcome of the sports event but also the safety of athletes. Wheelchair rugby is a good example of athletes wearing sportswear that is inappropriately fitted. The purpose of this study is to analyse, by means of videos and photographs, the patterns of activity and movements performed by the athletes during a set of wheelchair rugby training sessions. This analysis serves not only to inform on the movements and body postures but also on the problems and difficulties caused by the items of sportswear worn by the athletes. From the analysis it was observed that gloves are causing the most problems with performance, whilst tops and bottoms have more impact on comfort

Scan posture definition and hip girth measurement: the impact on clothing design and body scanning

Ergonomic measurement is central to product design and development; especially for body worn products and clothing. However, there is a large variation in measurement definitions, complicated by new body scanning technology that captures measurements in a posture different to traditional manual methods. Investigations of hip measurement definitions in current clothing measurement practices supports analysis of the effect of scan posture and hip measurement definition on the circumferences of the hip. Here, the hip girth is a key clothing measurement that is not defined in current body scanning measurement standards. Sixty-four participants were scanned in the standard scan posture of a [TC] 2 body scanner, and also in a natural posture similar to that of traditional manual measurement collection. Results indicate that scan posture affects hip girth circumferences, and that some current clothing measurement practices may not define the largest lower body circumference. Recommendations are made concerning how the hip is defined in measurement practice and within body scanning for clothing product development. Practitioner Summary: The hip girth is an important measurement in garment design, yet its measurement protocol is not currently defined. We demonstrate that body posture during body scanning affects hip circumferences, and that current clothing measurement practices may not define the largest lower body circumference. This paper also provides future measurement practice recommendations

Sports-wear in wheelchair rugby: establishing design needs

This paper reports the findings of a preliminary study that intended to understand how wheelchair rugby athletes feel about the clothing they wear while playing the sport and how the available clothes make them feel. 61 non-professional wheelchair rugby players from 21 different teams/clubs in the United Kingdom participated in this study. To understand the players’ opinions, this study consisted of a mixed-method approach, with data collected through a focus group and a questionnaire. The results show that, on top of the lack of availability of sports-wear for this specific sport, which compromises the athletes’ satisfaction, comfort and performance, there is also a need on the part of the athletes for this type of specialized equipment. This study showed that there is a need for this type of sports-wear, hence the importance to act and develop more specialized garments to satisfy this population not just in terms of safety, comfort and performance but also in terms of inclusivity.FCT - Fuel Cell Technologies Program(UID/CTM/000264)info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

Whole body scanning as a tool for clothing sizing: Effects on women’s body satisfaction

Whole-body scanning is increasingly used in the clothing industry, including in large-scale sizing surveys and virtual fitting. However, the impacts of 3D scanning on women’s body satisfaction are unclear as no previous studies have investigated impacts in a controlled experiment. This experiment investigated any causal effect of 3D whole-body scanning, as used in clothing applications, on women’s body satisfaction. Seventy women aged 18-35 years completed body image measures at baseline, immediately post-test, and two weeks later. At post-test relative to controls and controlling for baseline scores, women randomly allocated to the scanner condition scored significantly higher on Body Areas Satisfaction and significantly lower on Self-classified Weight, and positive effects persisted two weeks beyond the experimental session. Results suggest that whole-body scanning may improve women’s body satisfaction and reduce perceived overweight relative to controls, though further research is necessary to examine the reliability of this effect and underlying mechanisms

3D body scanning in the apparel industry: Do we really know where we are heading?

This paper through - the Diffusion of Innovation Model - shows that while 3D Body Scanning brings some refining and improvements of existing methods, it does not introduce new concepts that depart from traditional retail practices. 3D Body Scanning is - potentially - a powerful way of approaching size and fit in apparel and one that presents novel opportunities. Yet, despite the advantages that this technology offers, and the many initiatives that have taken place, 3D Body Scanning has not reached its full potential and has failed to produce the expected results held by many stakeholders. Stakeholders must increase collaboration to realise 3D Body Scanning’s relative advantage. Much of the potential has, however, been promoted by distinct organisations that are biases about how the diverse processes and structures will work together, whilst focussing on profit from their own incremental IP. In this paper we elicit 3D Body Scanning’s fundamental concepts, and its central goal to provide ‘glue’ needed to create an innovation. We offer further implications for researchers and policymakers about expecting and managing trends in technology. <br

Online virtual fit is not yet fit for purpose: An analysis of fashion e-commerce interfaces

To unify the methodology of Virtual Fit platforms and allowing cross platform integration of 3D Body Scanning, the current Virtual Fit platforms need to be assessed in terms of their size recommendation approach and user interaction. Digital data, interactivity, and internet technology are changing the ways we interact in online shopping, with the Virtual Fit platforms having great potential to increase retail engagement and market share. This will support online purchasing activities while minimising the perceived risk in garment returns due to the poor sizing fit information. Current research has focused on the analysis of computer modelling techniques, avatars, cloth, fabric draping simulations, and customer behaviour / aesthetic impact in the online domain. From a technical perspective, these investigations offer an interesting insight, although do not address issues of implementation or customer attitude. Therefore, to judge the current and potential impact of such technologies, it is important to understand 1) how they are being enacted online, 2) the Interaction Design elements of the user journey, 3) the application (or lack thereof) of mathematical models, and 4) how such interfaces are embedded within websites. Once these four key questions have been answered a greater understanding of how 3D Body Scanning and Technologies integrated into eCommerce and Virtual Fit platforms in the consumer market may be reached. Through analysis of nine leading Virtual Fit platforms, the persona of a single female dress form was used to work through the customer journey. Through this, screen shot data captured along each stage in relation to the four research questions listed above. Following this, the study utilised content analysis structure with NVivo as a qualitative thematic analysis tool. This study found that despite a large number of platforms using virtual fit technology, only a handful companies exist that provide such technology and interfaces; often based upon subjective ‘previous purchases’ rather than scientific prediction. This issue is made more complicated in how subjective measures such as personal perception of one’s body is required (e.g. what size are you), besides body shape; a concept shown to be ‘broken’ and not fit-for-purpose. In addition, many of the technologies use limited and often misinterpreted body measurements, the impact of which is explored in greater detail within the paper. This study contributes to the understanding of the information required from users by virtual fit platforms, and the understanding of the output as presented by virtual fit platforms. The research goal is to contribute to knowledge as a potential guideline for any future projects in virtual fit and to help direct body scanning developments to better support these platforms

Landmarking for Improved Digital Product Creation

Sampling is a critical step in the concept-to-style workflow for digitally created products. Virtual environments allow sampling without the costs associated with physical prototyping However, current practice often still requires physical prototyping. Here we consider how landmarking contributes to the need for iterative sampling, thereby inhibiting a fully digital product creation DPC process. In the process, the opportunity for error within traditional anthropometric study is highlighted and a path toward global standardized landmarking and measuring (L&M) is presented. Landmarks denote anatomical reference points common to all humans. They are critical to every stage of DPC: measuring, product development, virtual sampling, rigging, size selection, and try-on. Cross-platform use of humanoids (models of humans) and body-worn products will introduce errors if landmarking protocols do not align across three-dimensional body processing (3DBP) technologies. Here we discuss how to avoid these discrepancies by combining Clone Block™ theory with current ISO standards. Further study should validate the findings here for the implementation of global standardized L&M to facilitate 3D technology interoperability, fully DPC, and greater adoption of 3D technologies for improved fit of body-worn products

Individual consistency in migration strategies of a tropical seabird, the Round Island petrel

Background: In migratory species, the extent of within- and between-individual variation in migratory strategies can influence potential rates and directions of responses to environmental changes. Quantifying this variation requires tracking of many individuals on repeated migratory journeys. At temperate and higher latitudes, low levels of within-individual variation in migratory behaviours are common and may reflect repeated use of predictable resources in these seasonally-structured environments. However, variation in migratory behaviours in the tropics, where seasonal predictability of food resources can be weaker, remains largely unknown. Methods: Round Island petrels (Pterodroma sp.) are tropical, pelagic seabirds that breed all year round and perform long-distance migrations. Using multi-year geolocator tracking data from 62 individuals between 2009 and 2018, we quantify levels of within- and between-individual variation in non-breeding distributions and timings. Results: We found striking levels of between-individual variation in at-sea movements and timings, with non-breeding migrations to different areas occurring across much of the Indian Ocean and throughout the whole year. Despite this, repeat-tracking of individual petrels revealed remarkably high levels of spatial and temporal consistency in within-individual migratory behaviour, particularly for petrels that departed at similar times in different years and for those departing in the austral summer. However, while the same areas were used by individuals in different years, they were not necessarily used at the same times during the non-breeding period. Conclusions: Even in tropical systems with huge ranges of migratory routes and timings, our results suggest benefits of consistency in individual migratory behaviours. Identifying the factors that drive and maintain between-individual variation in migratory behaviour, and the consequences for breeding success and survival, will be key to understanding the consequences of environmental change across migratory ranges

“I didn’t realise I was such a sausage”: Men’s Accounts of Whole-body Scanning, Body Image, and Expected Changes in Health-related Behaviours

Objective: Whole-body scanning is now available in stores to assist buyers in choosing well-fitting clothes. This study was designed to investigate men’s accounts of scanning, body image, and expectations of behaviour change. Design: Ten men aged 18-39 years without histories of eating disorders or previous experience of whole-body scanning, took part in semi-structured interviews before and after scanning. Data were analysed using inductive thematic analysis. Results: Pre-scan, men’s body ideals were tall, slender, and relatively muscular. Post-scan, seven reported looking shorter, fatter, thinner, and/or less symmetrical than they hoped; three were pleasantly surprised by the images. Men were interested in scans as an objective view of their bodies and as a “wake-up call” to motivate healthy behaviours. Five men intended to change their behaviour as a result of scanning, and repeat scanning was seen as a good way to monitor behavioural changes. Participants suggested that scanning may raise body concerns in other men, though downplayed impacts on their own body image. Conclusion: Whole-body scanning may encourage men to exercise and eat more healthily. However, men became more negative about their bodies as a result of seeing their body scans, so scanning needs to be carried out with supervision and support