Influences of Orally Taken Carotenoid-Rich Curly Kale Extract on Collagen I/Elastin Index of the Skin

Two differently designed, spatially resolved reflectance spectroscopy-based scanners and two-photon tomography were used for noninvasive in vivo determination of cutaneous carotenoids, and collagen I/elastin aging index of dermis, respectively, in the skin of 29 healthy female volunteers between 40 and 56 years of age. The volunteers received a supplement in the form of a carotenoid-rich natural curly kale extract containing 1650 µg of carotenoids in total (three capsules of 550 µg), once a day. Measurements were taken before, after 5 months and after 10 months of daily supplementation. The results showed significantly increased values for the cutaneous carotenoids and the collagen I/elastin aging index of dermis 5 and 10 months after the beginning of the study. The obtained results show that a natural carotenoid- rich extract could prevent the aging-related collagen I degradation in the dermis and improve the extracellular matrix

Electrohydrodynamic spray applicator for homogenous application and reduced overspray of sunscreen

Background: The recommended amount of sunscreen by hand application (2 mg/cm(2)) is in reality not achieved, which decreases the homogeneity and thereby the effective sun protection factor (SPF). Materials and Methods: The homogeneity of sunscreen applied by a newly developed spray applicator using an electrostatically charged aerosol, for which a hand rubbing of the formulation is not necessary, is evaluated. In vivo experiments were performed on the volar forearms of human volunteers using the spray applicator compared to the standardized hand application according to ISO 24444. Results: The distribution homogeneity was assessed qualitatively using in vivo laser scanning microscopy and quantitatively by absorption spectroscopy after tape stripping and by the standard deviation of multiple spatially displaced reflectance measurements for non-invasive SPF determination below the minimal erythemal dose, which showed a significantly higher homogeneity by 20.9% after spray application compared to hand application. Conclusion: Non-invasive SPF determination of multiple spatially displaced reflectance measurements was proven to be a suitable method for the non-invasive determination of the sunscreen distribution homogeneity. Electrostatically charged spray application increased the sunscreen distribution homogeneity on the skin and can reduce the amount of overspray

Water-filtered infrared-A (wIRA) can act as a penetration enhancer for topically applied substances

Background: Water-filtered infrared-A (wIRA) irradiation has been shown to enhance penetration of clinically used topically applied substances in humans through investigation of functional effects of penetrated substances like vasoconstriction by cortisone

In vivo sun protection factor and UVA protection factor determination using (hybrid) diffuse reflectance spectroscopy and a multi‐lambda‐LED light source

The sun protection factor (SPF) values are currently determined using an invasive procedure, in which the volunteers are irradiated with ultraviolet (UV) light. Non-invasive approaches based on hybrid diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (HDRS) have shown a good correlation with conventional SPF testing. Here, we present a novel compact and adjustable DRS test system. The in vivo measurements were performed using a multi-lambda-LED light source and an 84-channel imaging spectrograph with a fiber optic probe for detection. A transmission spectrum was calculated based on the reflectance measured with sunscreen and the reflectance measured without sunscreen. The preexposure in vitro spectrum was fitted to the in vivo spectrum. Each of the 11 test products was investigated on 10 volunteers. The SPF and UVA-PF values obtained by this new approach were compared with in vivo SPF results determined by certified test institutes. A correlation coefficient R-2 = 0.86 for SPF, and R-2 = 0.92 for UVA-PF were calculated. Having examined various approaches to apply the HDRS principle, the method we present was found to produce valid and reproducible results, suggesting that the multi-lambda-LED device is suitable for in-vivo SPF testing based on the HDRS principle as well as for in-vivo UVA-PF measurements

Follicular Delivery of Caffeine from a Shampoo for Hair Retention

A key factor in the prevention of hair loss is the provision of optimal conditions on the scalp. In this regard, reduction of oxidative stress on the scalp is one critical requirement to support the hair follicles to function optimally. Recently, a novel shampoo formulation technology containing anti-oxidants such as piroctone olamine has been demonstrated to improve hair retention based on micellar degradation and coacervation effects. Caffeine has also been shown to exhibit anti-oxidant activity including the ability to inhibit lipid peroxidation. As with piroctone olamine, it is expected that follicular delivery of caffeine will enhance its anti-oxidant activity in a region that will be beneficial for hair retention. In this study, two shampoo formulations as well as a control formulation were applied to the calf area of n = 9 male participants. The technique of differential tape stripping was applied to obtain the caffeine penetrated to the stratum corneum and to the hair follicles. Isotope-dilution liquid chromatography coupled with tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) was performed to demonstrate caffeine follicular delivery from the shampoo formulas. The results showed that the percentage of caffeine recovered in the hair follicles was 8–9% of the caffeine absorbed into the skin and matched an existing caffeine-based shampoo. In conclusion, a novel shampoo formulation technology has been developed that effectively delivers beneficial anti-oxidants to improve hair retention. This new shampoo is expected to be especially useful in the goal of retaining hair during aging

Noninvasive measurement of the 308 nm LED‐based UVB protection factor of sunscreens

The current method for determining the sun protection factor (SPF) requires erythema formation. Noninvasive alternatives have recently been suggested by several groups. Our group previously developed a functional sensor based on diffuse reflectance measurements with one UVB LED, which was previously evaluated on pig ear skin. Here we present the results of a systematic in vivo study using 12 sunscreens on 10 volunteers (skin types [ST] I-III). The relationship of the UVB-LED reflectance of unprotected skin and melanin index was determined for each ST. The spatial variation of the reflectance signal of different positions was analyzed and seems to be mainly influenced by sample inhomogeneity except for high-protection factors (PFs) where signal levels are close to detection noise. Despite the low-signal levels, a correlation of the measured LED-based UVB PF with SPF reference values from test institutes with R-2 = 0.57 is obtained, suggesting a strong relationship of SPF and LED-based UVB-PF. Measured PFs tend to be lower for increasing skin pigmentation. The sensor design seems to be suitable for investigations where a fast measurement of relative changes of PFs, such as due to inhomogeneous application, bathing and sweating, is of interest

In vivo Skin Penetration, Radical Protection, and Structural Changes after Topical Application of a Herbal Oil Cream Compared to Topical Calcipotriol in Mild to Moderate Psoriasis

Background: The chronicity of psoriasis often requires continuous topical treatment. Materials and Methods: Here, the radical protection of a cream containing various herbal oils was evaluated in vivo by electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy and its skin penetration by Raman microscopy in intact and barrier-disturbed skin. Changes in skin barrier properties were evaluated after 4 weeks of daily topical application using in vivo laser scanning microscopy (LSM) and transepidermal water loss in 26 healthy volunteers. A randomized, controlled, double-blind, three-arm parallel clinical study evaluated the efficacy of the herbal oil cream compared to a 0.05% calcipotriol-containing cream and to a vehicle cream, in 135 patients with mild to moderate plaque psoriasis with the change in Psoriasis Area and Severity Index (PASI) from baseline to week 12 as the primary endpoint. Results: EPR spectroscopy disclosed a significantly higher radical formation in untreated than skin treated with the herbal oil cream (p ≤ 0.05). LSM measurements indicated a protective skin barrier effect in treated compared to untreated skin. In the clinical trial, the topical application of herbal oils showed a significant reduction of the PASI score compared to topical calcipotriol at week 12 (p = 0.016). The mean reduction in PASI was 49% for the herbal oil cream, 38% for calcipotriol, and 55% for the vehicle cream. The percentage of patients, who reached PASI 50 and 75 at any time point, was 55.9% and 29.4% for the herbal oil cream, 47.4% and 15.8% for calcipotriol, and 23 (60.5%) and 13 (34.2%) for the vehicle, respectively (p > 0.05). The vehicle, originally designed as a placebo, contained a main ingredient of the herbal oil cream and therefore showed corresponding results. Conclusion: The herbal oil cream demonstrated effectiveness in the treatment of mild to moderate plaque psoriasis

Influence of the Systemic Application of Blue–Green Spirulina platensis Algae on the Cutaneous Carotenoids and Elastic Fibers in Vivo

The objective of the study was to investigate the influence of a food supplement rich in antioxidants on the antioxidant status of the skin. For this reason, the blue-green algae Spirulina platensis powder was used for oral application during eight weeks. The effect of oral application of the antioxidant-containing Spirulina platensis on characteristic skin aging parameters, e.g., concentration of cutaneous carotenoids and the collagen/elastin index (SAAID), was investigated in vivo. A significant average increase from 2.67 ± 0.86 arb. units to 3.25 ± 0.93 arb. units (p < 0.001) in the cutaneous carotenoid concentration was detected subsequent to oral application of the carotenoid-containing Spirulina platensis powder, showing a significant improvement of the antioxidant status of the skin. A slight but not significant increase (p = 0.33) in the dermal SAAID mean values was measured from −0.54 ± 0.11 to −0.51 ± 0.11 subsequent to oral intake of Spirulina platensis powder