Valorization of wine‐making by‐products’ extracts in cosmetics

The increased demand for conscious, sustainable and beneficial products by the consumers has pushed researchers from both industries and universities worldwide to search for smart strategies capable of reducing the environmental footprint, especially the ones connected with industrial wastes. Among various by-products, generally considered as waste, those obtained by winemaking industries have attracted the attention of a wide variety of companies, other than the vineries. In particular, grape pomaces are considered of interest due to their high content in bioactive molecules, especially phenolic compounds. The latter can be recovered from grape pomace and used as active ingredients in easily marketable cosmetic products. Indeed, phenolic compounds are well known for their remarkable beneficial properties at the skin level, such as antioxidant, antiaging, anti-hyperpigmentation and photoprotective effects. The exploitation of the bioactives contained in grape pomaces to obtain high value cosmetics may support the growing of innovative start-ups and expand the value chain of grapes. This review aims to describe the strategies for recovery of polyphenols from grape pomace, to highlight the beneficial potential of these extracts, both in vitro and in vivo, and their potential utilization as active ingredients in cosmetic products

An outlook on modern and sustainable approaches to the management of grape pomace by integrating green processes, biotechnologies and advanced biomedical approaches

Grape pomace is the main solid residue of wine industry, mainly composed of seeds, skins and stalks, all containing high amounts of valuable phytochemicals. Considering its high potential, in this review, an outlook on different resources and products, which can be obtained by the recovery of grape pomace is provided. Special attention has been devoted to the analysis of chemical, physical and biotechnological processes to be applied and also to the high value compounds and products, such as supplements, nutraceuticals and cosmeceuticals, that can be manufactured. In particular, in the first part of the review, an update on the composition of grape pomace has been provided along with the analysis of its traditional fate. In the second part, the more modern and green approaches tested to the sustainable management of grape pomace are reported and discussed

Multi-Step Biomass Fractionation of Grape Seeds from Pomace, a Zero-Waste Approach

Grape seeds are the wineries' main by-products, and their disposal causes ecological and environmental problems. In this study seeds from the pomace waste of autochthonous grape varieties from Lebanon, Obeidi (white variety) and Asswad Karech (red variety) were used for a multi-step biomass fractionation. For the first step, a lipid extraction was performed, and the obtained yield was 12.33% (w/w) for Obeidi and 13.04% (w/w) for Asswad Karech. For the second step, polyphenols' recovery from the defatted seeds was carried out, resulting in 12.0% (w/w) for Obeidi and 6.6% (w/w) for Asswad Karech, with Obeidi's extract having the highest total phenolic content (333.1 ± 1.6 mg GAE/g dry matter) and antioxidant activity (662.17 ± 0.01 µg/mL of Trolox equivalent). In the third step, the defatted and dephenolized seeds were subsequently extracted under alkaline conditions and the proteins were isoelectric precipitated. The recovered protein extract was 3.90% (w/w) for Obeidi and 4.11% (w/w) for Asswad Karech seeds, with Asswad Karech's extract having the highest protein content (64 ± 0.2 mg protein/g dry matter). The remaining exhausted residue can be valorized in cosmetic scrubs formulations as a replacement for plastic microbeads. The designed zero-waste approach multi-step biomass fractionation has the potential to improve the valorization of the side products (grape seeds) of these two Lebanese autochthonous grape varieties

Extraction, characterization and incorporation of Hypericum scruglii extract in ad hoc formulated phospholipid vesicles designed for the treatment of skin diseases connected with oxidative stress

An extract of Hypericum scruglii, an endangered endemic plant of Sardinia (Italy), was prepared and characterized. It was loaded in special phospholipid vesicles, glycerosomes, which were modified by adding maltodextrin (glucidex) and a polymer (gelatin or hyaluronan). The corresponding liposomes were also prepared and used as reference. The vesicles disclosed suitable physicochemical features for skin delivery. Indeed, their mean diameter ranged from 120 to 160 nm, they were homogeneously dispersed (polydispersity index 0.30), and their zeta potential was highly negative (-45 mV). The vesicle dispersions maintained unchanged characteristics during 60 days of storage, were highly biocompatible, and were able to protect keratinocytes against damages due to oxidative stress induced by treating them with hydrogen peroxide. Vesicles were also capable of promoting cell proliferation and migration in vitro by means of a scratch wound assay. The results confirmed the fruitful delivery of the extract of H. scruglii in glycerosomes modified with glucidex and gelatin and their promising ability for skin protection and treatment

Recent Advances in Research on Polyphenols: Effects on Microbiota, Metabolism, and Health

Polyphenols have attracted huge interest among researchers of various disciplines because of their numerous biological activities, such as antioxidative, antiinflammatory, antiapoptotic, cancer chemopreventive, anticarcinogenic, and antimicrobial properties, and their promising applications in many fields, mainly in the medical, cosmetics, dietary supplement and food industries. In this review, the latest scientific findings in the research on polyphenols interaction with the microbiome and mitochondria, their metabolism and health beneficial effects, their involvement in cognitive diseases and obesity development, as well as some innovations in their analysis, extraction methods, development of cosmetic formulations and functional food are summarized based on the papers presented at the 13th World Congress on Polyphenol Applications. Future implications of polyphenols in disease prevention and their strategic use as prophylactic measures are specifically addressed. Polyphenols may play a key role in our tomorrow´s food and nutrition to prevent many diseases

Stilbenoid-Enriched Grape Cane Extracts for the Biocontrol of Grapevine Diseases

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