161 research outputs found
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Observations of seiche forcing and amplification in three small harbors
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Southern California Beach Processes Study - Torrey Pines Beach Nourishment Study 3rd Quarterly Report to California Resources Agency and California Department of Boating and Waterways
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Southern California Beach Processes Study - Torrey Pines Beach Nourishment Study 7th Quarterly Report
Finite amplitude edge waves
Large amplitude edge waves are shown to be modified by nonlinear effects in a way very similar to surface waves in deep water (Stokes, 1847); trapped harmonics tend to sharpen the wave crests and the natural frequency increases with wave amplitude, progressive edge waves propagating faster at large amplitude. A standing edge wave exhibits additional properties due to interaction between its two constituent progressive waves...
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Assimilating Coastal Wave Observations in Regional Swell Predictions. Part I: Inverse Methods
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