Chemo-enzymatic synthesis of 3-O- (β-d-glycopyranosyl)-sn-glycerols and their evaluation as preservative in cosmetics

D-Glycopyranosyl glycerols are common natural products and exhibit strong biological properties, notably as moisturizing agents in cosmetics. Their chemical synthesis remains tedious thus decreasing their potential industrial and economic development, as well as the study of their structure-function relationships. In this work, the chemo-enzymatic synthesis of three enantiopure 3-O-(beta-D-glycopyranosyl)-sn-glycerols was efficiently performed using an original glycosidase from Dictyoglomus thermophilum and their preservatives properties were assessed using a challenge test method. Amongst them, the 3-O-(beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-snglycerol exhibited a specific anti-fungus activity

Bio-Guided Targeting for Preservative and Anti-Ageing Cosmetic Ingredient Development

To develop a new antioxidant, antibacterial and natural cosmetic ingredient without cytotoxicity to skin cells, bioactive molecules contained in Kalanchoe pinnata leaf methanolic extract were targeted using semi-preparative HPLC fractionation linked to biological activity tests. Chromatographic effluent was collected at the column outlet into a 96 deep-well microplate, filling successively all the wells. After freeze-drying, the microplate was ready to use for different biological tests such as antimicrobial activity on microorganisms, skin cell viability and antioxidant activity on human keratinocyte cells. The injection of only 2.64 mg of crude extract into the HPLC system reveals a good correlation between the chromatographic peaks and the different biological activities. One fraction is mainly of interest since good antibacterial and antioxidant activities without cytotoxicity are observed. The analysis of this fraction using mass spectrometry allows the identification of glycoside derivatives of quercetin, isorhamnetin and kaempferol. Thus, a correlation between biological activity and the presence of these flavonoids is obtained. This screening method allows a rapid fractionation associated with a biological activity evaluation and a first molecular identification, saving time by limiting sample treatments and solvent consumption

Modulation de la pigmentation de la peau par des phosphosaccharides : GLYCOSKIN-I, projet collaboratif en partenariat avec des industriels

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