〓

For determination of the position of sleeve cap point so that the sleeves are fitting on the arm in various forms, an examination on the sleeve cap position was made by sensory tests based on feeling of wearing for motion adaptability and appearance evaluation for aesthetic sense and the following results were obtained. 1. For the construction of the set-in short sleeve, it was best fitting on the arm in various forms except a special one extremely inclined toward the back, of which inclination angle was as large as -10° to set the sleeve cap point to a position posterior to the shoulder peak of the dress body. 2. The best position of sleeve-cap point for sports wears and working wears, of which adaptability to various motions is regarded as most important, was 1.5 cm posterior to the shoulder point of its body. 3. For some wears placed on an importance on motion adaptability, such as sports wears, warking wears, etc., the construction that the sleeve cap point was set to a position shifted 1.5 cm posterior to the shoulder peak of the dress body was best fitting on the arm in most forms except extremely inclined ones by as much as ten degrees. These results show that on construction of short-sleeved dresses as well as long-sleeved ones it is important to tailor a dress by modulating the distance from the sleeve cap point to the shoulder peak of dress body according to the aim of wearing it

〓

In pursuing the objective on construction of long sleeves, variations of sleeve cap points for fitness to dropped arms form, from the point of motion convenience and external appearance were attempted, through sensory tests. The results in light of long sleeve constructions were as follows : 1. Importance is evident for appearance. For dressy-wear, fitness is shown where sleeve cap point is identical to shoulder point, or approximately 1.0-1.5cm variance toward the back from the shoulder point. 2. Stress is evident for motion fitness and function. For sporty-wear and working clothes, slant form corresponds to the mean value. Fitness is shown where sleeve cap point is identical to shoulder point with front slant of 5°-6° variance. By assessment from the mean value, front slant of 7°-12° variance shows fitness of sleeve cap point with back slant of 1.5cm variance from shoulder point. Moreover, front slant of 4° to back slant of 3° shows fitness of sleeve cap point with front slant of 1.0 cm variance from shoulder point. The above findings indicate the need for sleeve cap point variations according to clothing needs for various purposes although the sleeve design itself may not differ

アメリカン・ボード宣教師文書 : 同志社女学校女性宣教師を中心として : M. F. デントン書簡訳および註 (4)

翻

アメリカン・ボード宣教師文書 : 同志社女学校女性宣教師を中心として : M. F. デントン書簡訳および註 (5)

翻

アメリカン・ボード宣教師文書：同志社女学校女性宣教師を中心として〈M. F. デントン書簡：訳および註〉（12）

翻

アメリカン・ボード宣教師文書 : 同志社女学校女性宣教師を中心として : M. F. デントン書簡訳および註 (7)

翻

アメリカン・ボード宣教師文書：同志社女学校女性宣教師を中心として〈M.F. デントン書簡：訳および註〉（11)

翻