Lexicon development for Brazilian textile sensory analysis

This paper aims to present the development process of descriptors that will form the Brazilian textile lexicon for evaluation of textile tactile comfort. Therefore, we used the descriptive and qualitative method and ISO 11035 standards. In the first phase a panel of selected sensory assessors evaluated 20 tissue samples with different textures and compositions, generating 299 terms. In the second phase, these descriptors were analyzed by the panel of evaluators who eliminated the hedonic terms and with same meanings. In the third phase, through similarity analysis the evaluators gathered the 49 final terms in 21 groups. These grouped terms were selected for the lexicon for the sensory analysis of tactile comfort in Brazil. The attributes will be used primarily for the training of assessors experts and later for descriptive evaluation of textile sensory comfort.info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

Determination of total comfort of sport caps using wear trials

[Excerpt] The cap is a very popular product among young people. Previous studies regarding the production system and appearance of the product were conducted, however there is little research concerning their comfort. The total comfort is classified into 4 basic groups as thermo-physiological comfort, sensorial comfort, psychological comfort and ergonomic comfort. This paper is part of an ongoing research aiming to establish a comprehension about function and comfort characteristics for sports caps, in this specific case using male volunteers. In this part of the study, ten models of caps of different types of raw materials, construction and structure levels were manufactured and afterwards submitted to perception tests of comfort by ten male volunteers. [...]This work is financed by FEDER funds through the Competitivity Factors Operational Programme (COMPETE) and national funds through FCT–Foundation for Science and Technology within the scope of the project POCI-01-0145-FEDER-007136

Vídeo aula: preparação e manuseio da máquina industrial de costura classe 300 / Video lesson: preparation and handling of industrial sewing machine class 300

O objetivo desse artigo é proporcionar o conhecimento sobre a utilização e manuseio da máquina de costura reta ponto fixo classe 300 através de videoaula, com o intuito de minimizar as dúvidas e questionamentos durante as aulas; considerando que muitos participantes não conhecem ou não sabem utilizar máquinas de costura industriais.

Analysis of the governance structure of local clusters of polo clothing

This study aimed to examine the governance structures of identifying the logic of relations and the governance variables of the clothing sector APLs Polo Textile Clothing Paraná. To this end, we organized a theoretical framework that supported the changes in the course of history, the concepts of Productive Clusters and their main competitive advantages. Address the concepts and theoretical bases on Governance, which allowed us to understand the importance of its elements and structures allied to them. The methodological procedures adopted in this study were those relating to the case study. The procedures for data analysis were explanatory, descriptive and qualitative. We used primary data collected through semi-structured interviews and secondary data as well as direct observation of the researcher. The environmental analysis of the research focused on managers of APLs Governance Polo Textile Clothing Paraná. Data were analyzed by the inductive method, by analyzing the results obtained in the case study, comparing them with the theoretical aspects of this research. A main outcome was possible to know the main joint strategies employed by companies participating in the clusters of the Textile Clothing Polo Paraná. These strategies are developed by the thematic groups by means of a governance structure that aims to establish the actions that contribute to improving competitiveness.O presente estudo teve como objetivo analisar as estruturas de governança identificando a lógica das relações e as variáveis de governança dos APLs do setor de confecção do Polo Têxtil de Confecções do Paraná. Para tanto, organizou-se um referencial teórico que subsidiou as mudanças ocorridas, no decorrer da história, dos conceitos de Aglomerados Produtivos e as suas principais vantagens competitivas. Abordou os conceitos e bases teóricas sobre Governança, que permitiram compreender a importância de seus elementos e as estruturas a eles aliadas. Os procedimentos metodológicos adotados nesta pesquisa foram os relativos ao estudo de caso. Os procedimentos para a análise dos dados foram de natureza explicativa, descritiva e qualitativa. Foram utilizados dados primários, coletados por meio de entrevista semiestruturada e dados secundários, bem como observação direta do pesquisador. O ambiente de análise da pesquisa com foco nos gestores da Governança dos APLs do Polo Têxtil de Confecções do Paraná. Os dados foram analisados pelo método indutivo, por meio da análise dos resultados obtidos no estudo de caso, confrontando-os com os aspectos teóricos desta pesquisa. Como principais resultados foi possível conhecer as principais estratégias conjuntas empregadas pelas empresas participantes dos APLs do Polo Têxtil de Confecção do Paraná. Essas estratégias são desenvolvidas por grupos temáticos, por meio de uma estrutura de governança que visa estabelecer as ações que contribuam para melhoria da competitividade

Evaluation of comfort properties of a three-dimensional textile product through the sensory and instrumental analysis methodology in Brazil

Tese de Doutoramento Engenharia TêxtilO microambiente do vestuário é o espaço entre o vestuário e a pele, estando relacionado com o calor e com o contato do vestuário com a pele. Muitos investigadores pesquisam a relação entre pele e vestuário com vista ao conforto total desse microambiente. O conforto total do vestuário é classificado em 4 grupos básicos, nomeadamente conforto termo-fisiolíogico, conforto sensorial, conforto psicológico e conforto ergonómico. Desse modo, o objetivo dessa tese é avaliar o conforto sensorial e termo-fisiolíogico de amostras têxteis e de bonés desportivos por meio da Análise Descritiva Quantitativa e de ensaios ao uso, estabelecendo uma compreensão sobre as suas características de conforto. Os procedimentos metodológicos foram fundamentados em dois métodos principais: a metodologia objetiva, adaptada de normas de análise sensorial usadas pelas indústrias alimentícias e de cosméticos, para avaliação do conforto sensorial tátil de amostras têxteis e de bonés desportivos, realizada no Brasil; e o método subjetivo, onde o conforto do boné desportivo é avaliado por dois grupos de 10 utentes por meio de ensaios ao uso, um em Portugal, em ambiente de clima controlado, e outro no Brasil, em ambiente externo. Com o método objetivo foi possível: desenvolver o léxico têxtil Brasileiro e compará-lo com os léxicos Francês e Português; selecionar e treinar um painel sensorial tátil têxtil Brasileiro; e fazer a avaliação sensorial tátil em amostras têxteis e de bonés desportivos por meio da Análise Descritiva Quantitativa. Com o método subjetivo, foram avaliadas as sensações do conforto geral, temperatura, humidade e a pressão que as amostras de bonés desportivos exercem na cabeça do utente através de ensaios ao uso. Como resultado da avaliação objetiva, foi possível perceber que o painel classificou de modo semelhante as amostras têxteis e as amostras de bonés. No que respeita à avaliação subjetiva, apesar de não apresentar diferenças significativas entre as médias estimadas e os dados obtidos em ambiente de clima controlado foi possível agrupar os bonés por tipo de modelo e, em alguns atributos, as amostras confecionadas com tecidos 100% algodão apresentaram melhor performance.The microenvironment of clothing is the space between clothing and skin, being related to heat and the contact of clothing with the skin. Many researchers study the relationship between skin and clothing for the total comfort of this microenvironment. The total comfort of clothing is classified into four basic groups, namely thermophysiological comfort, sensory comfort, psychological comfort and ergonomic comfort. Thus, the objective of this thesis is to evaluate the sensory and thermophysiological comfort of textile samples and sports caps through Quantitative Descriptive Analysis and wear trial, establishing an understanding of their comfort characteristics. The methodological procedures were based on two main methods: the objective methodology, adapted from sensory analysis standards used by the food and cosmetics industries, to evaluate the tactile sensory comfort of textile samples and sports caps, performed in Brazil; and the subjective method, where the comfort of the sports cap is evaluated by two groups of ten wearers through wear trial, one in Portugal, in a climate controlled environment, and another in Brazil, in an outdoor environment. With the objective method it was possible to: develop the Brazilian textile lexicon and compare it with the French and Portuguese lexicons; select and train a Brazilian textile tactile sensory panel; and to make the tactile sensorial evaluation in textile samples and sports caps through the Quantitative Descriptive Analysis. With the subjective method, the sensations of general comfort, temperature, humidity and the pressure that the samples of sports caps exert on the wearer's head through wear tests were evaluated. As a result of the objective assessment, it was possible to notice that the panel similarly classified textile samples and cap samples. Regarding the subjective evaluation, despite not presenting significant differences between the estimated averages and the data obtained in controlled climate environment, it was possible to group the caps by model type and, in some attributes, the samples made with 100% cotton fabrics presented best performance

Lexicon for sensory evaluation of tactile textiles in Brazil

The space between clothing and the body is related to users comfort. Due to the priority to protect man from a particular hazard, the interaction between clothing and body comfort as well as structural properties of materials to be used in clothing manufacturing is often neglected. Indeed, comfort is one of the most important properties that influence the users decision when choosing a particular piece of clothing. Touch is one of the most used practice by the consumer to verify the comfort of the fabric. Thus, the touch is a tool to assess the quality of high sensitivity fabrics. Investigations were carried out in France and Portugal in order to quantify the quality of touch textiles. The researchers used the sensory analysis method much exploited by the food industry and cosmetics and developed lexicons for tactile sensory evaluation in textiles. The development of a lexicon for tactile sensory analysis is an important tool for tactile evaluation of products. For its development a selection of samples representing the product is performed and the development of protocols to be followed systematically by evaluators generate the terms and quantitative or qualitative validation. Thus, this article presents the procedures used for the development of the Brazilian textile lexicon.(undefined)info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

The importance of comfort in sport caps through subjective assessment in real weather conditions

This article aims to present the results of the investigation of the perception of the comfort properties of sports caps through wear trial in real weather conditions in an uncontrolled environment. The sensations of general comfort, temperature, humidity and the pressure that ten samples of sports caps exert on the head of ten volunteers during subjective assessment were evaluated. The two-way ANOVA statistical tool was used for statistical data analysis. Volunteers assigned very low averages to the affective ratings of the sports cap samples. This may indicate the volunteers’ difficulty in judging the attributes when the caps are worn on the head. In future research, it is intended to compare the data obtained in this study with the data obtained in tests of use carried out in an environment of controlled temperature and humidity.To the Araucária Foundation (Support for Scientific and Technological Development of Paraná) through CP20/2013, Doctoral Program in Textile Engineering in Partnership with a Foreign Institution (UMINHO/UEM/UTFPR). To the Federal Technological University of Paraná (UTFPR), and Directorate of Research and Graduate Studies (DIRPPG).This work was funded by FEDER through - COMPETE and by national funds through FCT - Foundation for Science and Technology under the project UID/CTM/00264/2021