1980-2020

In 1980, Grazietta Butazzi curated the exhibition at the Poldi Pezzoli Museum in Milan "1922-1943: Vent’anni di moda italiana". This experience enabled us to raise central questions about the cultural status of fashion in relation to the exhibition machine and the museum at the beginning of a decade, the 1980s, that proved fundamental not only in developing the fashion exhibition but above all in defining fashion itself as a discipline, through the focus on themes and issues such as the reconstruction of its history, the conservation of objects and the problem of cultural and museum exhibition practices in relation to commercial forms of display. Retrieving this exhibition means moving between an account of an important exhibition event and the analysis of its role within fashion studies, in years when, especially in Italy, an awareness developed of the need to imagine devices and institutions capable of preserving and studying fashion. Looking at this exhibition today means reflecting primarily on the Italian situation, because even today one of the central issues in Italy is the absence of institutions in the promotion of a national fashion museum capable of dealing fully with the international scope of fashion. The exhibition, curated by Grazietta Butazzi with the coordination of Alessandra Mottola Molfino, was a pioneering project in the Italian panorama of fashion exhibitions. It proved comparable to the work of Diana Vreeland starting from 1972, when she began her career at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York as Special Consultant and as a first gesture organised the exhibition "The World of Balenciaga". The exhibition at the Poldi Pezzoli Museum directly addressed the 20th century. Therefore, as it evolved, it began to develop methods of research, conservation and display that were different from those used for garments and objects from the more distant past, which are usually placed in the costume category. It was a fashion exhibition and, over the years (above all through the catalogue), it has become a landmark for those seeking to understand contemporary fashion. "1922-1943: Vent’anni di moda italiana" in 1980 enclosed a debate over the organisation of fashion exhibitions that is still relevant today at the Italian and international levels. In fact, this exhibition directly addressed contemporary fashion, with the problems of exhibiting it, making it relevant to the visitor, and at the same time recognising the status of a cultural object that is collectable. This was a project that not only questioned the exhibition mechanism but also the way of exhibiting in relation to the actions necessary to imagine what a fashion museum should preserve and what professional skills it should develop, in order to contribute to the definition of a discipline profoundly related to the contemporary world and commerce. This is still a relevant exhibition in the Italian panorama, which has to come to terms with the striking absence of a museum project comparable to the finest international institutions, even though in recent years some things have changed. At the same time, it was also a chance to reiterate the need to imagine and design a museum space capable of collecting and exhibiting Italian fashion by working on the questions and narratives necessary to understand and relaunch it. "1922-1943: Vent’anni di moda italiana" reminds us today that the insights of Grazietta Butazzi, in her relationship with the Poldi Pezzoli Museum, represent a wealth of ideas and projects on which to reflect, without nostalgia, so triggering a virtuous process to define a precise cultural policy for fashion in Italy. In 2020 "Memos. On Fashion in This Millennium", curated by Maria Luisa Frisa with the exhibition design by Judith Clark at the Poldi Pezzoli Museum reactivates the exhibition by Butazzi, and tries to develop a series of reflections on contemporary fashion, its qualities and its attributes, taking as its starting point Italo Calvino’s "Six Memos for the Next Millennium". The exhibition uses Calvino’s words as devices to reflect on what has changed and what has stayed the same in fashion: Memos sets out to construct a “discourse on method”, or rather a reflection on fashion curating and its ability to deal with the different products of that fashion: not just the objects, but also the images and the words. In this paper these two exhibitions are connected, compared and considered as critical reflections, capable of moving back and forth between the past and the present of fashion. Through the analysis of both these exhibitions (the Butazzi exhibition has been re-discovered for the first time thorough original archival researches), this paper will address the state of Italian fashion studies, and the cultural status of fashion in its relation to the museum and to the practice of fashion curating

Moda, curatela, museo: un dibattito lungo un decennio, un decennio lungo quarant\u2019anni

L\u2019obiettivo di questo contributo \ue8 recuperare sei significative esperienze espositive degli anni ottanta che in modi diversi hanno saputo impostare domande centrali sullo statuto culturale della moda nel suo confronto con la macchina espositiva e con il museo: "1922-1943: Vent\u2019anni di moda italiana" curata da Grazietta Butazzi a Milano nel 1980; "Intimate architecture: Contemporary clothing design" curata da Susan Sidlauskas alla Hayden Gallery del Massachusetts Instituite of Technology nel 1982; "Conseguenze impreviste: Moda" curata da Rossana Bossaglia a Prato nel 1982; "Yves Saint Laurent" curata da Diana Vreeland a New York nel 1983; "Il genio antipatico: Creativit\ue0 e tecnologia della moda italiana 1951-1983" curata da Pia Soli a Roma nel 1984; "Gianni Versace: L\u2019abito per pensare" a cura di Nicoletta Bocca e Chiara Buss a Milano nel 1989. L\u2019analisi di queste mostre permette di raccontare gli anni ottanta come decennio fondamentale non solo per la messa a punto dell\u2019oggetto \u201cmostra di moda\u201d, ma soprattutto per la definizione della moda stessa, attraverso la messa a fuoco di temi e questioni come: la ricostruzione della sua storia; la conservazione degli oggetti; l\u2019autorialit\ue0; lo statuto disciplinare della moda nel suo confronto con il design, l\u2019architettura, l\u2019arte; il progetto di moda svolto nei suoi elementi costitutivi; il problema delle pratiche espositive culturali e museali nel loro confronto con le forme commerciali di display

Vertical deflections and Atmospheric Refraction Coefficient in high-precision monitoring.

La tesi è suddivisa in due parti. La prima è dedicata alla determinazione della Deflessione della Verticale (DdV) in Medicina (BO). Vengono presentati tre metodi per la determinazione delle componenti della DdV. Il primo utilizza la livellazione geometrica ed il sistema GNSS, il secondo, eseguito dal dott. Serantoni, utilizza il sistema QDaedalus, messo a punto all' ETH di Zurigo ed il terzo approccio utilizza il programma ConvER, messo a disposizione dalla regione Emilia-Romagna. Nella seconda parte viene presentato un metodo per la determinazione del Coefficiente di Rifrazione Atmosferico (CRA). La procedura di calcolo è di tipo iterativo ed utilizza, oltre agli angoli zenitali, anche le distanze misurate. Il metodo è stato testato in due aree di studio. La prima nella città di Limassol (Cipro) in ambiente urbano nell' autunno 2013. La seconda in Venezia nella laguna durante l'estate 2014.In the thesis are treated two subjects. The first one is determination of vertical deflections in Medicina (BO). Three methods are presented. The first one using geodetic leveling and satellite GPS positioning, the second one by dott. Serantoni using QDaedalus a special total station with a ccd sensor and the third one using ConvER, a special program by Emilia-Romagna community network. The second subject is the determination of Atmospheric Refraction Coefficient. An iterative method is presented in two study areas. The first one is in the city of Limassol (Cyprus), and the second one in Venezia (Italy)

A parametric investigation on the seismic capacity of masonry cross vaults

Considering the relevance and the artistic value of cross vaults in European seismic prone areas, a parametric study on the seismic capacity of this element is presented. In particular, the behaviour of the so-called groin vault is discussed, i.e. intersection at a right angle of two semi-circular barrel vaults. The influence of span, rise, thickness, infill, and masonry tensile strength is investigated with respect to two boundary conditions, representative of typical vault configurations within heritage buildings. The analyses were performed using an upper bound approach of standard limit analysis. For the sake of clarity, the adopted code framework is briefly reviewed.With the aim of identifying the most frequent failure mechanisms, the outcomes of the parametric analysis have been visually inspected and sorted according to the input parameters. Aiming toward a simplified assessment criterion, the resulting list of parameters was subsequently processed through multiple linear regression analyses that can help practitioners in quick seismic evaluation.This work was partly financed by FEDER funds through the Competitivity Factors Operational Programme - COMPETE and by national funds through FCT - Foundation for Science and Technology within the scope of the project POCI-01-0145-FEDER-007633.info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

Fiber- vs. Microwave-based 5G Transport: a Total Cost of Ownership Analysis

Answering a key question from operators, the paper compares the techno-economic performance of fiber and microwave-based 5G transport deployments using vendor’s inventories and real-life field deployment scenarios. Results highlight how microwave gains vary based on the geo-types, the fiber trenching, and microwave equipment costs

Techno-economics of Fiber vs. Microwave for Mobile Transport Network Deployments [Invited]

One of the challenges for network operators is to design and deploy cost-efficient transport networks (TNs) to meet the high capacity and strict latency/reliability requirements of today’s emerging services. Therefore, they need to consider different aspects, including the appropriate technology, the level of reconfigurability, and the functional split option. A crucial aspect of network design is assessing the impact of these aspects against the total cost of ownership (TCO), latency, and reliability performance of a given solution. For this reason, this paper proposes a framework to investigate the TCO, latency, and reliability performance of a set of fiber and microwave-based TN architectures. They are categorized based on their baseband functional split option and the reconfigurability capabilities of the equipment used. The results, based on real data from a non-incumbent operator, show that in most of the considered scenarios, a microwavebased TN exhibits lower TCO than a fiber-based one. The TCO gain may vary with the choice of the functional split option, geo-type, reconfigurability features, fiber trenching costs, and cost of microwave equipment, with a more significant impact in a dense urban geo-type, where for a low layer functional split option the fiber- and microwave-based architectures have a comparable TCO. Finally, it was found that the considered fiber and microwave architectures have almost similar average latency and connection availability performance. Both are suitable to meet the service requirements of 5G and beyond 5G services in most of the considered scenarios. Only in extreme latency-critical scenarios, a small number of the cells might not fully satisfy the latency requirements of a low layer split option due to multiple microwave hops in the microwave-based architecture

Techno-economics of 5G transport deployments

Network densification is a crucial enabler for 5G, requiring the installation of a large number of devices and/or cables for the 5G transport network. This invited paper provides a techno-economic study focusing on adopting microwave and fiber equipment for 5G transport network deployments. Different architectures for low layer split supporting latency critical services are considered