Questões de Género no Vestuário Sem Género: Tendência versus Paradigma

No que diz respeito a moda, vestuário e género, os investigadores de vestuário há muito tempo que são fascinados pelas diferenças entre roupas e a aparência de homens e mulheres – mesmo antes da introdução do conceito de género como um padrão socialmente construído, separado do sexo biológico. De facto, é quase impossível estudar o vestuário sem considerar o género. Quando uma peça de vestuário é vista numa coleção no museu, uma das primeiras categorias em que é classificada é 0 sexo do utilizador, (Paoletti, 2018). Tendo sido escolhido um objeto de estudo específico relacionado com a moda contemporânea, pretende-se estudar o vestuário sem género a partir de uma abordagem sociológica, acerca dos tipos de género, das suas diferenças e do comportamento do consumidor de moda. Como consequência desta opção, obter-se-á uma investigação com uma perspetiva interdisciplinar. Neste contexto de vestuário sem género é importante abordar, não apenas a pesquisa de Design de Moda, mas também de áreas científicas como Sociologia e Marketing (comportamento do consumidor), bem como diversos subtemas inseridos nesses campos do conhecimento. O presente estudo foca-se em compreender e analisar questões e aspetos atuais da sociedade, relativamente a questões de género no vestuário, quer nas coleções de moda dos criadores e das marcas, quer dos consumidores. Procura-se ainda aferir se a moda sem género será um paradigma ou apenas uma tendência. O enquadramento da temática será feito através de uma detalhada revisão da literatura sobre questões de género, comportamento do consumidor e o vestuário sem género em Design de Moda. A investigação realizada usa uma combinação de metodologias, qualitativa e quantitativa, por meio da utilização do método da triangulação (qualitativa-quantitativa-qualitativa), para tratar os dados recolhidos através de uma análise de imagens, do desenvolvimento de um questionário e de uma coleção cápsula. Para a análise de imagens foram selecionadas sete marcas/designers, que tenham feito coleções, ou as suas marcas sejam classificadas como unissexo ou sem género, dos quais foram recolhidas 117 imagens, para uma análise feita através do software MaxQDA. O questionário desenvolvido foi colocado online para o consumidor de vestuário da população portuguesa, numa amostra não probabilística e de conveniência. Desta forma, foram obtidas 650 respostas válidas para se proceder a uma análise multivariada e univariada. Nesse sentido, numa fase final desta investigação e face aos resultados obtidos da análise de imagens e dos resultados da análise do consumidor desenvolveu-se uma coleção cápsula de peças de vestuário sem género, das quais, por meio de detalhes na modelagem, estas pretendem vestir tanto no corpo de mulher como de homem, que podem oscilar entre diversos tamanhos. Diante dos resultados obtidos, o trabalho desenvolvido constitui um ponto de partida para futuras investigações e discussões no vestuário sem género. Particularmente a estrutura aplicada mostrou ser útil para o estudo do vestuário sem género e dos seus consumidores. O trabalho desenvolvido apresenta também contribuições teóricas pertinentes para uma evolução do conhecimento do consumidor de vestuário na atualidade e para o vestuário sem género, que podem ser relevantes não só para o meio académico como também do ponto de vista prático para marcas e designers da indústria do têxtil e do vestuário. Para que no desenvolvimento de projetos e coleções, marcas e designers que tenham um determinado segmento tenham em consideração um conjunto de atributos e fatores valorizados pelo consumidor de vestuário, em que alguns deles diferem em termos de valorização em função das características demográficas-sociais.Regarding fashion, clothing and gender, clothing researchers have long been fascinated by the differences between dress and the appearance of men and women - even before the introduction of the concept of gender as a socially constructed standard, separated from the biological sex. It is almost impossible to study clothing without considering gender. When a garment is seen in a museum collection, one of the first categories in which it is classified is the sex of the user (Paoletti, 2018). Having chosen a specific study object related to contemporary fashion, we intend to study genderless clothing not only from a sociological approach, about the types of gender, their differences, but also the consumer behaviour in fashion. As a consequence of this option, this investigation has an interdisciplinary perspective. In this context of genderless clothing, it is essential to address not only fashion design research but also scientific areas such as Sociology and Marketing (consumer behaviour), as well as several sub-themes within these fields of knowledge. This study focuses on understanding and analysing current issues and aspects of society, concerning gender issues in clothing, both in the fashion collections of designers and brands, as well as consumers. It also seeks to gauge whether genderless fashion will be a paradigm or just a trend. The theme will be framed through a detailed review of the literature on gender issues, consumer behaviour and genderless clothing in Fashion Design. The research carried out uses a combination of methodologies, qualitative and quantitative, applying the triangulation method (qualitative-quantitative-qualitative), to treat the data collected through image analysis, the development of a questionnaire and a capsule collection. For the analysis of images, seven brands/designers were selected, who have made collections, or their brands are classified as unisex or genderless, from which 117 images were collected, for an analysis made using the MaxQDA software. The developed questionnaire was placed online for clothing consumers of the Portuguese population, in a non-probabilistic and convenience sample. In this way, 650 valid responses were obtained to proceed with multivariate and univariate analysis. In a final phase of this investigation, considering the results obtained from the analysis of images and the results of the study of the consumer behaviour, a capsule collection of garments for genderless was developed. Through details in the patternmaking, the developed clothes intend to wear both in the body of a woman and a man, which can vary between different sizes. The developed work constitutes a starting point for future investigations and discussions on genderless clothing, considering the results obtained. Notably, the applied structure proved to be useful for the study of genderless clothing and its consumers. The work developed also presents relevant theoretical contributions for an evolution of the knowledge of the consumer of clothing today and for genderless clothing, which may be concerned not only for the academic environment but also from a practical point of view for brands and designers of the clothing and textile industry. Furthermore, the development of projects and collections, of brands and designers that have a particular segment considers a set of attributes and factors valued by the fashion consumer, in which some of them differ in terms of valuation according to demographic-social characteristics

Production of biosorbents from waste olive cake and its adsorption characteristics for Zn2+ Ion

In this study, waste olive cake (OC) was utilized as the raw material for the production of biosorbents by chemical treatment and its adsorption capacity for zinc ion was evaluated. Tests were conducted with the total biomass (T) and with the fraction > 2.00 mm (P), in order to determinate the influence of this fractionation step on subsequent treatments. Two chemical agents were used: sulfuric acid and sodium hydroxide. The parameters studied include physical and chemical properties of materials, contact time, pH, adsorbent dose and initial concentrations. The kinetic data were best fitted to the pseudo-second order model. Zinc binding is strongly pH dependent, with more zinc ions bound at a higher pH (5-7 in a range of 3-7). Both Langmuir and Freundlich models are well suited to fit the data on sorption of zinc by OC. Data on sorption of zinc by waste olive cake treated with sulfuric acid (OC-H) was better described by the Freundlich model. Zinc sorption by waste olive cake treated with sodium hydroxide (OC-OH) was better described by the Langmuir model. Results show OC-OH is a biosorbent with a superior adsorption capacity for zinc than OC-H. The maximum adsorption capacity obtained from the Langmuir isotherms increases in the order (mg/g): OC-HT (14), OCT (22) and OC-OHT (27). Results also indicate that the previous fractionation step doesn´t produce a biosorbent with a superior adsorption capacity

Toxicity of Ashes Produced During the Combustion and Co-combustion of Coal and Meat and Bone Meal in a Fluidized- Bed Reactor

The replacement of fossil fuels by renewable fuels can contribute to improve the environmental performance of the power production and to move forward in the sustainability way. The experience has shown that the availability of alternative fuels can be an obstacle for its extensive use for energy production, since biomass is not always available. The use of non-hazardous wastes may be a good alternative to biomass, mainly if they are economically unattractive for recycling or if they present a high cost for land-filling. The co-firing of non-hazardous wastes with coal is, therefore, a subject of great interest for the sustainability of energy production and the reduction of the emissions of fossil greenhouse gases. The use of these wastes for energy is promising if they combine well with other fuels during the conversion process for energy production and have no negative effect on the combustion system, on the ash quality and on the gaseous emissions

Sorption of lead (Pb2+) from aqueous solutions using chars obtained in the pyrolysis of forestry pine, rubber tires and plastics

Carbonaceous solid products resulting from thermochemical processes (pyrolysis, gasification), commonly known as chars, are emerging as low-cost sorbents of metallic contaminants, being their effectiveness already demonstrated in several studies (Inyang et al., 2012; Fuente-Cuesta et al., 2012; Ko³odyñska et al., 2012; Quek and Balasubramanian, 2009; Devecia and Kar, 2013). Given the fact that the commercial viability of pyrolysis and gasification plants for the treatment and valorisation of waste streams are increasingly being demonstrated, it is expected that large amounts of solid chars will be available in a near future, as by-products or as main products (pyrolysis-carbonization). Chars may possess several characteristics which turn them effective as heavy metals sorbents: aromatic carbon matrix with relatively porous structures, the presence of functional groups or inorganic inclusions in the surface providing active sites to interact with metallic species (Inyang et al., 2012; Fuente-Cuesta et al., 2012; Ko³odyñska et al., 2012; Quek and Balasubramanian, 2009; Devecia and Kar, 2013; Lu et al., 2012). Lead (Pb2+) is considered as a priority substance in the field of European water policy (EU, 2000; EU, 2008) which means that measures shall be taken by the Member States to eliminate or reduce the water pollution caused by this pollutant in order to fulfill the emission/discharge limits legislated for this compound

Leaching behaviour and ecotoxicity evaluation of chars from the pyrolysis of forestry biomass and polymeric materials

The main objective of this study was to assess the environmental risk of chars derived from the pyrolysis of mixtures of pine, plastics, and scrap tires, by studying their leaching potential and ecotoxicity. Relationships between chemical composition and ecotoxicity were established to identify contaminants responsible for toxicity. Since metallic contaminants were the focus of the present study, an EDTA washing step was applied to the chars to selectively remove metals that can be responsible for the observed toxicity. The results indicated that the introduction of biomass to the pyrolysis feedstock enhanced the acidity of chars and promote the mobilisation of inorganic compounds. Chars resulting from the pyrolysis of blends of pine and plastics did not produce ecotoxic eluates. A relationship between zinc concentrations in eluates and their ecotoxicity was found for chars obtained from mixtures with tires. A significant reduction in ecotoxicity was found when the chars were treated with EDTA, which was due to a significant reduction in zinc in chars after EDTA washing

Biomass fly ashes as low-cost chemical agents for Pb removal from synthetic and industrial wastewaters

The main aim of this work was to study the removal efficiency of Pb from synthetic and industrial wastewaters by using biomass fly ashes. The biomass fly ashes were produced in a biomass boiler of a pulp and paper industry. Three concentrations of Pb2+ were tested in the synthetic wastewater (1, 10 and 1000 mg Pb/L). Moreover, two different wastewaters were collected in an industrial wastewater treatment plant (IWWTP) of an industry of lead-acid batteries: (i) wastewater of the equalization tank, and (ii) IWWTP effluent. All the wastewaters were submitted to coagulation–flocculation tests with a wide range of biomass fly ashes dosage (expressed as Solid/Liquid – S/L – ratios). All supernatants were characterized for chemical and ecotoxicological parameters. The use of biomass fly ashes has reduced significantly the Pb concentration in the synthetic wastewater and in the wastewaters collected in the IWWTP. For example, the definitive coagulation–flocculation assays performed over the IWWTP effluent presented a very low concentration of Pb (0.35 mg/L) for the S/L ratio of 1.23 g/L. Globally, the ecotoxicological characterization of the supernatants resulting from the coagulation–flocculation assays of all wastewaters has indicated an overall reduction on the ecotoxicity of the crude wastewaters, due to the removal of Pb

Production of bio-hydrocarbons by hydrotreating of pomace oil

Olive pomace oil is a by-product from the olive oil industry that is still being used in the food industry as a low value vegetable oil. Crude olive pomace oil needs to be refined and is blended with virgin olive oils before being used as edible oil. The detection of toxic compounds led to more restricted legislation and to the search of alternative valorisation processes, such as hydrotreating to obtain bio-hydrocarbons. Hydrotreating of olive pomace oil at moderate temperatures (from 300 to 430 C) and in presence of initial hydrogen pressure of 1.1 MPa led to triglycerides destruction and to their conversion into a large range of organic compounds with predominance to hydrocarbons. Even without any catalyst, conversions into hydrocarbons were always higher than 90% (v/v). Catalyst presence, such as: CoMo/Al2O3, FCC (fluid catalytic cracking) or HZSM-5 changed hydrogenated liquids composition. The highest content of alkanes was obtained with CoMo catalyst, while FCC and HZSM-5 led to the highest contents of aromatic compounds. The results obtained showed that olive pomace oil can be efficiently converted into bio-hydrocarbons with a wide range of applications. It was also studied the effect of pyrolysing olive pomace oil prior to its hydrotreating. Pyrolysis pre-treatment seems to have favoured hydrotreating process by promoting initial cracking reactions. Thus, it was possible to increase the production of liquid compounds with a higher content of light molecules. However, the advantages of using a more complex two steps process still need to be proven

Potential application of propolis extracts to control the growth of stemphylium vesicarium in 'Rocha'pear

PA54101 PA54102 PA54103 UIDB/04077/2020Stemphylium vesicarium (Wallr.) E. G. Simmons is the pathogen responsible of brown spot disease in pear and has become one of the main concerns for European pear producers. In Portugal, S. vesicarium is responsible for significant yield reduction and economic losses in "Rocha" pear (Pyrus communis L. cv Rocha) production. Considering the antimicrobial potential of propolis, the high incidence of brown spot in pears and the emergence of fungicides resistance in S. vesicarium, this study aimed to evaluate the potential of Portuguese propolis as an alternative strategy to control brown spot disease in "Rocha" pear. In vitro assays showed that propolis extracts were able to inhibit up to 90% the S. vesicarium mycelial growth. In vivo assays in artificially wounded and inoculated "Rocha" pears showed that, compared to the control, the disease incidence decreased up to 25% and the lesions diameter up to 57%, in fruits treated with propolis. Moreover, propolis seems to be more efficient in reducing the disease incidence when applied after pathogen inoculation (curative assay) than when applied before pathogen inoculation (prophylactic assay). Thus, the results suggest that propolis extracts have potential to be applied as part of an integrated approach for the control of brown spot of pear.publishersversionpublishe

Cultura continua do ciliado Tetrahymena pyriformis

The object of this investigational work carried out was to drive some biological processes using the interventions of protozoa in biological purification and valorization the microbial biomass obtained. The work studied the kinetics of growth and predation of the protozoa using both, continuous and batch type processes. The bacteria used was Klebsiella pneumoniae, and the predator Tetrhymese pyriformis. A culture media was created for T pyriformis, and a batch return system in two stages, with Klebsiella pneumoniae as the substrate was created. In conditions observing the dynamic equilibria, the levels of individual predation of the ciliates were observed. A significant relation between the number of ciliates, and the average of the cellular volume was observed. The biomass obtained, using different process condition was also studied, an order to determinate the average general composition of the amino acids. The results obtained showed significant variations in some Amino Acids with a consequent variability on the protein contain value. These experimental results in continuous culture were subject to statistical analyses, especially to derive a significant correlation relationship. Consequent conclusions show, a dependency and necessity of the system and by the system for studied ciliates. Where the control the efficiency of biological treatment systems and the potential of harvesting the protozoa to produce a protein source for animal feedsAvailable from Fundacao para a Ciencia e a Tecnologia, Servico de Informacao e Documentacao, Av. D. Carlos I, 126, 1200 Lisboa / FCT - Fundação para o Ciência e a TecnologiaSIGLEPTPortuga

Alfaiataria artesanal e alfaiataria industrial, um estudo de caso

Inicialmente, o vestuário foi simplesmente uma forma de cobrir o corpo. Embora tenha começado como uma solução prática para um conjunto de necessidades físicas e simbólicas, rapidamente se tornou perceptível para alguns que poderiam rentabilizar essa necessidade simultaneamente individual e colectiva, fazendo esse trabalho para outros de modo a que as pessoas não o tivessem que fazer por si mesmas. Essas pessoas então começaram a pagar em moeda por receber esses bens ou serviços, nascendo assim os alfaiates. “O conhecimento e a arte da alfaiataria, do corte e costura do tecido – os dois aspectos básicos da construção de um padrão de roupas – desenvolveu-se gradualmente na Europa entre os séculos XII e XIV.” (BOYER, 1996) Esta dissertação pretende explorar, questionar e analisar as diferenças entre alfaiataria artesanal e alfaiataria industrial. A crescente preocupação com o facto de a alfaiataria artesanal estar em vias de extinção fez com que, numa primeira abordagem, fosse considerada uma pesquisa da evolução do vestuário masculino, pois esta evoluiu ao lado da alfaiataria artesanal e industrial até aos dias de hoje. Concluímos que existe espaço no mercado para estas duas potências de vestuário, cada uma com as suas características e particularidades, de forma a poderem coexistir ao mesmo tempo sem uma prejudicar a outra.Initially, clothing was mostly a way to cover the human body. Although it began as a practical solution to a set of physical and symbolical needs, it rapidly become clear to some that it was possible to profit from that simultaneously individual and collective necessity, making that work for others, so that they wouldn’t need to do it themselves. When these people started charging for those goods and services, tailors were born. “The knowledge and the art of tailoring, cutting and sowing the fabric – the two basic features when building a clothing pattern – developed gradually over Europe between the 12th and the 14th Centuries.” (BOYER, 1996) This dissertation aims to explore, question and analyse the differences between handmade and industrial tailoring. The growing worry with the fact that handmade tailoring may be disappearing was our motivation to research the evolution of menswear, since it developed side by side with both handmade and industrial tailoring through times and to our days. We conclude that there is a market for both of these clothing options, each with their own specific characteristics, allowing them to coexist without harming each other