Don’t Look Back: The Paradoxical Role of Recording in the Fashion Design Process

Although there is little systematic research in academia or industry examining design processes in Fashion, anecdotal evidence, based on self- reports and observations, suggests that designers very rarely record the process of designing. Conversely, benefits and requirements of recording the design process within other domains, such as Engineering and Architecture, are well supported in the literature. This paper attempts to explore the dichotomy of recording and non-recording practice across these fields through a review of the literature, semi-structured interviews and a report on one case study in particular, drawing out further detail. Commonalities and differences are identified and new directions for research proposed

Teaching Language to Adults. Mixed ability teaching : meeting learners\u27 needs.

Ainslie, Susan. (1994) Mixed ability teaching : meeting learners\u27 needs. Centre for Information on Language Teaching and Research, London

Analysis and design of a two-speed single-phase induction motor with 2 and 18 pole special windings

The motor presented employs multiple independent windings for operation with two very different pole numbers. The 18-pole field is produced with a symmetrical three-phase winding connected in a Steinmetz arrangement to a single-phase supply. A unified analysis method has been developed and used to demonstrate the equivalence of a Steinmetz delta or star connection with a main and auxiliary winding of a single-phase motor. The method has been experimentally validated and also included are some specific motor design considerations

A general magnetic-energy-based torque estimator: validation via a permanent-magnet motor drive

This paper describes the use of the current–flux-linkage ($i{-}psi$ ) diagram to validate the performance of a general magnetic-energy-based torque estimator. An early step in the torque estimation is the use of controller duty cycles to reconstruct the average phase-voltage waveform during each pulsewidth-modulation (PWM) switching period. Samples over the fundamental period are recorded for the estimation of the average torque. The fundamental period may not be an exact multiple of the sample time. For low speed, the reconstructed voltage requires additional compensation for inverter-device losses. Experimental validation of this reconstructed waveform with the actual PWM phase-voltage waveform is impossible due to the fact that one is PWM in nature and the other is the average value during the PWM period. A solution to this is to determine the phase flux-linkage using each waveform and then plot the resultant $i{-}psi$ loops. The torque estimation is based on instantaneous measurements and can therefore be applied to any electrical machine. This paper includes test results for a three-phase interior permanent-magnet brushless ac motor operating with both sinusoidal and nonsinusoidal current waveforms

Pathogenic microbes, the microbiome, and Alzheimer’s disease (AD)

The Si(111)-(3 ? 1)Li and Ag surface structures consist of Si honeycomb chains separated by channels occupied by Li or Ag atoms. The dimerization of neighboring Ag atoms results in a larger c (12 ? 2)Ag superstructure. We report calculations of the electronic surface states, dielectric function, and reflectance anisotropy spectrum of these surfaces using hybrid density functional theory (DFT) methods. The positions of surface states and the reflectance anisotropy spectrum calculated using DFT are in very good agreement with experimental results, where they have been reported. The surface states which contribute to the reflectance anisotropy below the band gap are identified for each orientation of the incident electromagnetic fiel

Analytical and numerical computation of air-gap magnetic fields in brushless motors with surface permanent magnets

This paper extends the theory of the air-gap magnetic field in permanent-magnet (PM) brushless motors. Scalar and vector potential solutions to the field equations are brought together to unify many of the important practical methods already in use. The theory admits a more general representation of the magnetization vector than has been previously assumed, including both the radial and tangential components, and variation with radius. The work is applied in the design of PM motors where there is a requirement to minimize noise and torque ripple, and maximize efficiency, and a continuing need for improvements in the accuracy and rigor of design calculations. The air-gap flux-density distribution is at the heart of the design process, and it is desirable to study different magnetization patterns, including imperfections in the magnetization, for a wide range of magnet shapes. This paper shows the application of the analytical solutions in comparison with a new finite-element procedure, with test results on a prototype motor, and with simpler, older methods of calculation based on magnetic equivalent circuits. The comparison brings out many interesting points in relation to the accuracy and the speed and practicality of the various methods

Assessment of torque components in brushless permanent-magnet machines through numerical analysis of the electromagnetic field

For the calculation of torque in brushless (BL) alternating current motors a local method is proposed, based on the Maxwell stress theory and the filtered contributions due to the harmonics of the magnetic vector potential in the motor air gap. By considering the space fundamental field only, the method can efficiently estimate the average synchronous torque for a variety or motor topologies, including concentrated winding designs. For BL direct current motor analysis a global method is introduced, based on the virtual work principle expressed in terms of energy components in various motor regions. The method leads to simplifications in the average torque calculation and enables the direct identification of the cogging and ripple components. The mathematical procedures have been validated against experiments and other numerical techniques

Calculating the interior permanent-magnet motor

This paper describes the calculation of torque in a brushless permanent-magnet line-start AC motor by means of the flux-MMF diagram in combination with the finite-element method. Results are compared with measured flux-MMF diagrams, with shaft torque measurements, and with torque calculated using the classical phasor diagram

Performance estimation of interior permanent-magnet brushless motors using the voltage-driven flux-MMF diagram

The flux-magnetomotive force (flux-MMF) diagram, or "energy conversion loop," is a powerful tool for computing the parameters of saturated interior permanent-magnet brushless motors, especially when the assumptions underlying classical dq theory are not valid, as is often the case in modern practice. Efficient finite-element computation of the flux-MMF diagram is possible when the motor current is known a priori, but in high-speed operation the current regulator can lose control of the current waveform and the computation becomes "voltage-driven" rather than "current-driven." This paper describes an efficient method for estimating the motor performance-average torque, inductances-by solving the voltage-driven problem. It presents experimental validation for a two-pole brushless interior permanent-magnet motor. The paper also discusses the general conditions under which this method is appropriate, and compares the method with alternative approaches

On the variation with flux and frequency of the core loss coefficients in electrical machines

A model of core losses, in which the hysteresis coefficients are variable with the frequency and induction (flux density) and the eddy-current and excess loss coefficients are variable only with the induction, is proposed. A procedure for identifying the model coefficients from multifrequency Epstein tests is described, and examples are provided for three typical grades of non-grain-oriented laminated steel suitable for electric motor manufacturing. Over a wide range of frequencies between 20-400 Hz and inductions from 0.05 to 2 T, the new model yielded much lower errors for the specific core losses than conventional models. The applicability of the model for electric machine analysis is also discussed, and examples from an interior permanent-magnet and an induction motor are included