Современные направления экодизайна в fashion-индустрии

Використано літературно-аналітичний, візуально-аналітичний методи та системно-структурний аналіз. Проаналізовано діяльність та продукцію сучасних брендів одягу та аксесуарів в екостилі, досліджено тенденції екологічного напряму в fashion-індустрії та новітні розробки в сфері виробництва eco-friendly текстилю. Виділено напрями екодизайну, що присутні в сучасній fashion-індустрії: одяг з еко-матеріалів, апсайклінг (upcycle), трешн (trashion), безвідходний крій (zero waste), створення речей, що мають подовжений час морального нестаріння. По кожному з напрямів сформовано опис його характерних рис та надано приклади сучасного практичного застосування в fashion-індустрії. Наукова новизна полягає у визначенні, описі та систематизації напрямів екодизайну, відповідно до яких проектуються еко-вироби, в окресленні тенденцій їх сучасного практичного використання. Розглянуті напрями екодизайну можуть використовуватись для сучасної практики дизайну та виробництва одягу і аксесуарів, під час вивчення дисциплін, що пов’язані з сучасними напрямами в дизайні, екологічними тенденціями в проектуванні виробів.Использованы литературно-аналитический, визуально-аналитический методы и системно-структурный анализ. Проанализирована деятельность и продукция современных брендов одежды и аксессуаров в экостиле, исследованы тенденции экологического направления в fashion-индустрии и новейшие разработки в сфере производства eco-friendly текстиля. Выделены направления экодизайна, которые присутствуют в современной модной индустрии: одежда из эко-материалов, апсайклинг (upcycle), трешн (trashion), безотходный крой (zero waste), создание вещей, имеющих увеличенный срок морального нестарения. По каждому из направлений сформировано описание его характерных черт и даны примеры современного практического применения в fashion-индустрии. Научная новизна заключается в определении, описании и систематизации направлений экодизайна, согласно которым проектируются эко-изделия, в определении тенденций их современного практического использования. Рассмотренные направления экодизайна могут использоваться для современной практики дизайна и производства одежды и аксессуаров, при изучении дисциплин, связанных с современными направлениями в дизайне, экологическими тенденциями в проектировании изделий.Determination of directions of eco-design used for designing of the products of the fashion industry, their formulation, and characteristics. Literary-analytical and visual-analytical methods, as well as system-structural analysis, are used. The activities and the products of modern brands of clothes and accessories in eco-style have been analyzed; the trends of ecological direction in the fashion industry and the latest developments in the field of production of eco-friendly textile have been researched. The directions of eco-design, which exist in the modern fashion industry, have been highlighted, in particular: clothes made from eco-materials; upcycling, trashion, zero waste cutting, creation of the clothes that have an extended period of moral agelessness. Each of the directions has been provided with a description of its features and the examples of its practical use in the modern fashion industry have been presented. Scientific novelty consists in determination, description and systematization of directions of eco-design, according to which the eco-products are designed; it also consists in outlining of tendencies in their modern practical use. The considered directions of eco-design can be used for the modern practice of designing and production of clothes and accessories, in the educational process devoted to modern directions in design, ecological tendencies in design of the clothes

Peculiarities of the Tectonomagmatic Processes in the Interaction Area between the Icelandic Plume and the Bight Transform Fault (North Atlantic)

Geological and geophysical data collected during the 53rd cruise of the R/V Akademik Sergey Vavilov are presented. It is shown that the lateral distribution of the Icelandic plume material to the south is not bounded by the Bight transform fault and continues further to the south. The Bight FZ affects the processes of crustal accretion and the formation of tectonic structures only in a spreading segment directly adjoining the Bight FZ from the south, i.e., the most distant from the Icelandic plume. The anomalous magnetic field studied made it possible to determine the half-spreading rate (11.7 mm/yr) in the westerly direction for the area between the Bight transform fault and the Modred nontransform fault of up to 3.6 Ma in age. It is shown that the flanks of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge represented a shallow-water area with some areas of land in the recent past

Geological-Geophysical Investigations in the North Atlantic during Cruise 53 of the R/V Akademik Sergey Vavilov

We provide information on geological and geophysical investigations of the structure of the area between the Bight and Charlie Gibbs transform faults in the North Atlantic during cruise 53 of the R/V Akademik Sergey Vavilov in September-October 2021. The structure of the Eastern Tula Rise is also considered. The preliminary results of the expedition are discussed

CRUSTAL ACCRETION ALONG THE NORTHERN MID ATLANTIC RIDGE (52°-57°N): PRELIMINARY RESULTS FROM EXPEDITION V53 OF R/V AKADEMIK SERGEY VAVILOV

This study investigates crustal accretion processes along the northern stretch of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge (MAR) between the Charlie Gibbs (52°-53°N) and Bight (57°N) transforms. These long-lived transform systems, active for more than 40 Ma, bound a ~ 550 km-long MAR segment influenced to the South by the Azores and to the North by the Iceland mantle plumes. The Bight transform is located at the tip of the Reykjanes Ridge, where the spreading direction, influenced by the southward propagation of the Iceland plume, changes from oblique (30° to the axis) to perpendicular to the axis. Four hundred kilometres to the south, the MAR is offset by the Charlie Gibbs transform system consisting of two long-lived right-lateral transform faults linked by a short ~ 40 km-long spreading segment. Previous expeditions surveyed large areas of these two transform systems, defining their main morphological features. Based on these bathymetric data, Expedition V53 of the R/V A.S. Vavilov carried out an intense dredging program coupled with magnetic surveys in an area spanning from 57° to 52°N, covering both the Bight and the Charlie Gibbs transform systems. We collected 1850 kg of rock samples including limestones, basalts, gabbros and mantle peridotites from 27 dredging sites, along with two 6-m long sedimentary cores. The sampled lithologies are globally in agreement with the contrasting morphological features of the two transform faults. We discuss here and compare the geology of these two major transform systems and assess the influence of the Icelandic plume on seafloor morphology at the Bight Fracture Zone

Seafloor spreading and tectonics at the Charlie Gibbs transform system (52-53ºN, mid atlantic ridge): Preliminary results from R/V A. N. Strakhov expedition S50

The Charlie Gibbs offsetting by ~ 340 km the Mid Atlantic Ridge (MAR) axis at 52°-53° N is one of the main transform systems of the North Atlantic. Located between long mid-ocean ridge segments influenced from the south by the Azores and from the north by the Iceland mantle plumes, this transform system has been active since the early phases of North Atlantic rifting. Object of several surveys in the ’70 and ’80, Charlie Gibbs received great attention for its unique structure characterized by two long-lived right-lateral transform faults linked by a short ~ 40 km-long intra-transform spreading centre (ITR) with parallel fracture zone valleys extending continuously towards the continental margins. In October 2020 expedition S50 of the R/V A.N. Strakhov surveyed an area of 54,552 km2 covering the entire Charlie Gibbs transform system and the adjacent MAR spreading segments. We collected new bathymetric, magnetic and high-resolution single channel seismic data, along with basaltic, gabbroic and mantle rocks from 21 dredges. This work contains preliminary data from cruise S50 and discusses the large-scale architecture of this unique, long-lived transform system