Plant-based Active Photoprotectants For Sunscreens

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq)Excessive exposure to the sun's radiation is the major exogenous mediator of skin damage, which accelerates skin ageing and increases the risk of developing skin cancer. Compounds with photoprotectant activity are extremely useful for decreasing the effect of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin; however, numerous sun filters, especially organic sunscreens, are allergenic. Therefore, the development of formulations containing plant extracts, which may be potentially safer, is extensively being explored. Plant-based cosmetics are commonly used to avoid skin ageing because they contain antioxidant agents that minimize free radical activity, and numerous studies have investigated the skin-protectant effects of related plant species. In addition to their antioxidant properties, plant-based cosmetics protect the skin against solar radiation because they contain polyphenols such as flavonoids and carotenoids. Therefore, this study aims to present a review of plant species commonly used in sunscreens to protect the skin against damage due to sunlight exposure. Resume L'exposition excessive au rayonnement du soleil est le principal mediateur exogene de dommages a la peau, ce qui accelere le vieillissement de la peau et augmente le risque de developper un cancer de la peau. Les composes ayant une activite photo-protectrice sont extremement utiles pour reduire l'effet du rayonnement ultraviolet (UV) sur la peau; Toutefois, de nombreux filtres solaires, en particulier les filtres solaires organiques, sont allergisantes. Par consequent, le developpement de formulations contenant des extraits de plantes, qui peuvent etre potentiellement plus sures, est largement exploree. Des cosmetiques a base de plantes sont couramment utilises pour eviter le vieillissement de la peau, car ils contiennent des agents antioxydants qui reduisent l'activite des radicaux libres, et de nombreuses etudes ont etudie les effets protecteurs des especes de plantes apparentees. En plus de leurs proprietes antioxydantes, les cosmetiques a base de plantes protegent la peau contre le rayonnement solaire, car ils contiennent des polyphenols tels que les flavonoides et les carotenoides. Par consequent, cette etude vise a presenter un examen des especes vegetales couramment utilisees dans les ecrans solaires pour proteger la peau contre les dommages dus a l'exposition au soleil.38346353CAPESCNPqCoordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq

In vitro SPF and photostability assays of emulsion containing nanoparticles with vegetable extracts rich in flavonoids

The aim of study was to determine the in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) and the photostability profile of a topical formulation composed of nanoparticles loaded with vegetable extracts and to assess its physicochemical properties. Chitosan/tripolyphosphate (TPP) nanoparticles loaded with flavonoids-enriched vegetable extracts (Ginkgo biloba L., Dimorphandra mollis Benth, Ruta graveolens, and Vitis vinifera L.) were produced and characterized for their morphology, mean particle size, zeta potential, and encapsulation efficiency. A final topical formulation was obtained by dispersing chitosan/TPP nanoparticles in an o/w emulsion. Results showed that nanoparticles dispersion exhibited yellowish color, spherical shape, and uniform appearance. Extract-loaded chitosan/TPP nanoparticles showed a mean particle size of 557.11±3.1 nm, polydispersity index of 0.39±0.27, zeta potential of +11.54±2.1 mV, and encapsulation efficiency of 75.89% of rutin. The recorded texture parameters confirm that the developed formulation is appropriate for skin application. The SPF obtained was 2.3±0.4, with a critical wavelength of 387.0 nm and 0.69 UVA/UVB ratio. The developed formulation exhibited photostability, allowing the release of flavonoids from nanoparticles while retaining rutin into the skin in a higher extension.The authors acknowledge FAPESP (grant number 2015/25533-7 and 2017/14757-7), CAPES, and CNPq agencies for the financial support of this study. The authors also acknowledge the financial support received from the Portuguese Science and Technology Foundation (FCT/MCT) and from the European Funds (PRODER/COMPETE) under the project reference M-ERA-NET/0004/2015-PAIRED, co-financed by FEDER, under the Partnership Agreement PT2020.info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio