Users self-assessment of a daily moisturizing of the skin with natural ingredientes

The cosmetic industry keeps growing, constantly pursuing to satisfy consumers' desire for beauty. Nowadays, sustainability awareness is gaining relevance in the cosmetic sector. The increasing market trend in favour of green cosmetic products, which use ingredients from natural inputs, portrays the ecological and social weight of consumer choices when using products that contribute to nature in a sustainable way. This study aims to analyze the user self-assessment effectiveness of a cream formulation for daily moisturizing of the skin, with natural ingredients, including bee products, local plant material of the region of Trás-Os-Montes, and vegetable oils. Twenty-two individuals aged between 24 and 74 years were included in the product's effectiveness study. The pre-use self-assessment shows that most of volunteers presented mixed skin type (at least three in five individuals). For dry skin individuals (one in five individuals), skin jerking and the rapid absorption of the products are the main issues. The assessment of product efficacy was measured based on a post-use questionnaire. The results obtained for nonplacebo users in the assessments are presented in Figure 1. The product exhibits positive performance for all the attributes under assessment. For products efficacy the highlight is for hydration and skin smoothness. For products attributes, ease application scores the maximum of 3.3 points. Different, wrinkles reduction and fragrance present less favourable results. When asked about the willingness to buy the product only one in four users respond negatively, mainly because of the strong fragrance of the preservative agent product. Users willing to buy/recommending the product to a friend mention the satisfactory results obtained, hydration performance and natural product as the determinant for that decision. The users willing to buy the product consider to do it at an average price of 10€ for a 50ml package.The authors are grateful to the Foundation for Science and Technology (FCT, Portugal) for financial support by national funds FCT/MCTES to CIMO (UIDB/00690/2020)info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

Consumers behavior and perceptions regarding natural cosmetic products

In the last decades, the increasing concerns related with sustainability and the emergence of ethical concerns related to the production and consumption of cosmetics, as well as, the verification of the adverse effects of chemical additives present in cosmetics for human health and the environment, have driven the growth of green cosmetics. Natural substances, derived from plants, animals or other organisms are increasingly popular as ingredients in cosmetics for being considered by consumers as safety alternatives to synthetic cosmetics. This work aims to analyze the habits and perceptions of consumers regarding natural cosmetics products. A cross-sectional study was carried out based on a sample of 222 individuals’ ages between 18 and 74 years old. Respondents were mainly female (75%), young urban adults, employed, with higher education. Most of the respondents use cosmetics daily, and considers them important (48%) or essential (34%), particularly the hygiene and skin care products. The median amount of monthly spend on cosmetic products are of 20 €. Super and hypermarkets (34.5%), and pharmacies and parapharmacies (31%) are the most relevant places for buying cosmetic products although the internet (8%) and catalogues sales (7%) are also significant. The importance of internet is also present has source of information about the products (40%), seconded by beauty professionals (27%). The great majority of the respondents uses natural cosmetic products, although not often organic ones. Despite the respondents’ considerable familiarity with natural cosmetic products, results display some misconceptions about these products still present in consumers’ minds.The authors are grateful to the Foundation for Science and Technology (FCT, Portugal) for financial support by national funds FCT/MCTES to CIMO (UIDB/00690/2020)info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

Utilization of bee products from Trás-os-Montes on the development of cosmetic formulation with terpenes preservatives from aromatic plants

The use of natural cosmetics is nowadays becoming increasingly frequent given to the awareness of consumers to the effects of chemically synthesized elements which can even prove to be carcinogenic in some cases. This project aims to develop a cream formulation for daily moisturizing of the skin, with natural ingredients, including bee products, local plant material of the region of Trás-Os-Montes and vegetable oils. Among bee products, beeswax was chosen for its versatile properties ranging from skin repairing power, to antimicrobial power (especially when it is coupled with olive oil). Another bee product was also selected which is lyophilized bee drone larvae. This material is a little studied in the cosmetic field and especially wasted in beekeeping practices because of its specific interaction with a mite called Varroa jacobsoni (however very significant in terms of the richness of its chemical and nutrition a l composition). Drones larvae were analyzed to determine its composition in proteins and lipids using respectively Kjeldahl and Soxhlet methods. An isolation method was also performed in order to find and extract collagen to incorporate it in the formulation and according to the observations by microscopy of the isolated particles from the larvae might be collagen type III. Two plants Salv ia of f icinalis and Salv ia elegans were used in culture in v itro and from the field, replicated, analyzed and exploited as sources of antioxidants . Their hydroalcoholic extracts were analysed by LC-MS/MS, to determine the phenols presents. It turned out to be that the main components of S. of f icinalis were rosmarinic acid, apigenin-O- glucuronide, scutellarein-O- glucuronide and luteolin-7-O- glucuronide, for S. elegans it were rosmarinic acid, salvianolic acid K, luteolin-7-O- glucuronide and caffeic acid. Another plant was also used, Thymus zygis zygis, but as a source of natural preservatives due to its richness in terpenic compounds, these compounds were extracted by hydrodistillat ion using a Clevenger apparatus, the yield was determined and the composition of the essential oils analyzed by GC/ GC-MS showing 99.1% of the total volatile compounds such as carvacrol, cymene and trans- sabinene hydrate. Several formulations were carried out and subjected to stability tests (physico - chemical and bacteriological inhibit ions).The formulations prepared showed a pH values ranging from 6.5 ± 0.3 and 6.7 ± 0.2 which may be adequate for to pic application since it is slightly acid close to skin pH. Among those tests experimenting the stability of the product, no phase separation or alteration of the organoleptic criteria of the product was observed. A photo stability of the products was also deduced from the analysis by spectrophotometer in the UVvisible region between 210 and 600 nm, in particular the sample that is containing olive oil and 5% of Salv ia elegans hydroalcoholic extract. A non Newtonien behavior (criterion sought in cosmetic creams) was also observed during the analysis by the texturometer. In addition, the Thymus essential oil used as a preservative in the cream has shown an inhibitory effect against the proliferation of microorganisms infecting the skin namely staphylococcus aureus (MIC and MBC inferior to 0.031%), Pseudomonas sp (MIC and MBC both equal to 1.25%), Escherichia coli (MIC and MBC both equal to 0.31%) and Candida albicans. Above a concentration of 0.31%, Thymus oil showed in C. albicans inhibition zones, using agar diffusion test, varying from 2 mm to 9.5 mm. Only one formulation was chosen, according to special organoleptic criteria, for testing on different types of skin. A first questionnaire aimed at determining the socio-economic profiles was given to the users and their feedback was transposed from a second questionnaire. Thus, the evaluation of their answers contributed to inform us about the effectiveness of the cream and areas for improvement in the product.O uso de cosméticos naturais, é cada vez mais frequente, devido à consciencialização dos consumidores para os efeitos da incorporação de compostos de síntese química que, podem até em alguns casos, serem carcinogénicos. Este trabalho visa o desenvolvimento de uma formulação, em creme para a hidratação diária da pele, com ingredientes naturais, incluindo produtos apícolas, plantas da região de Trás-Os-Montes e óleos vegetais. De entre os produtos apícolas, a cera de abelha foi escolhida pelas suas propriedades versáteis que, vão desde o poder reparador da pele, até o poder antimicrobiano (principalmente quando combinada com o azeite). Outro produto apícola que também foi selecionado, foi as larvas liofilizadas de zangãos de abelha. Este material é pouco estudado na área cosmética e é, por vezes, descartado nas práticas apícolas, por ser o alvo preferencial de infeção, pelo ácaro denominado Varroa destructor (porém muito interessante do ponto de vista da sua riqueza química e composição nutricional). As larvas de zangãos foram analisadas para determinar a sua composição em proteínas e lipídios, respetivamente, pelos métodos Kjeldahl e Soxhlet. Foi desenvolvido um método de determinação, isolamento e extração de colagénio, com o objetivo de, a posteriori, incorporá- lo na formulação. De acordo com as observações por microscopia das partículas isoladas das larvas, estas poderão ser colagénio tipo III. Duas plantas Salv ia of f icinalis e Salv ia elegans foram usadas em cultura in v itro e no campo, micropropagadas, analisadas e exploradas como fontes de antioxidantes. Os extratos hidroalcoólicos foram analisados por LC-MS / MS, para determinação dos fenóis presentes. Verificou- se que os principa is componentes de S. of f icinalis foram ácido rosmarínico, apigenina-Oglicuronídeo, escutelarina-O- glicuronídeo e luteolina-7-O- glicuronídeo, para S. elegans foram ácido rosmarínico, ácido salvianólico K, luteolin-7-O- glucuronide e ácido cafeico. Outra planta foi também utilizada, Thymus zygis zygis, mas como fonte de conservantes naturais, devido à sua riqueza em compostos terpénicos. Estes compostos foram extraídos por hidrodestilação num aparelho de Clevenger, o rendimento foi determinado e a composição dos óleos essenciais analisada por CG / GC-MS. Foram identificados 99,1% dos compostos voláteis totais, sendo os maioritários, carvacrol, cimeno e hidrato de trans- sabineno. Diversas formulações foram realizadas e submetidas a testes de estabilidade (avaliações físico-químicas e bacteriológicas). As formulações preparadas apresentaram valores de pH variando de 6,5 ± 0,3 e 6,7 ± 0,2 que podem ser adequados para aplicação tópica por serem levemente ácidas, próximas do pH da pele. Entre os testes de analise da estabilidade do produto, não foi o bservada separação de fases, ou alteração dos critérios organoléticos do produto. A fotoestabilidade dos produtos também foi verificada por espectrofotometria, na região UV- visível entre 210 e 600 nm, observando- se a estabilidade das amostras, em particular a amostra com azeite e 5% de extrato hidroalcoólico de Salvia elegans. Um comportamento não newtoniano (critério característico dos cremes cosméticos), também foi observado durante a análise pelo texturómetro. O óleo essencial de tomilho, usado como conservante no creme, mostrou um efeito inibitório, contra a proliferação de microrganismos que infetam a pele, nomeadamente Estaf ilococos aureus (MIC e MBC inferior a 0,031%), Pseudomonas sp (MIC e MBC iguais a 1,25 %), Escherichia coli (MIC e MBC iguais a 0,31%) e Candida albicans. Acima de uma concentração de 0,31%, o óleo do Thymus zygis zygis apresentou em C. albicans zonas de inibição, pelo teste de difusão em ágar, variando de 2 mm a 9,5 mm. Apenas uma formulação foi escolhida, de acordo com critérios o rganoléticos e de estabilidade, para testes em diferentes tipos de pele. Dois questionários foram entregues a um painel de voluntários. O primeiro com o objetivo de determinar os perfis socioeconómicos e o segundo para registo do feedback do painel após utilização da formulação. Assim, a avaliação das suas respostas contribuiu para nos informar sobre a eficácia do creme e áreas para melhoria no produto

Users self-assessment of a daily moisturizing of the skin with natural ingredients

The cosmetic industry keeps growing, constantly pursuing to satisfy consumers' desire for beauty. Nowadays, sustainability awareness is gaining relevance in the cosmetic sector. The increasing market trend in favour of green cosmetic products, which use ingredients from natural inputs, portrays the ecological and social weight of consumer choices when using products that contribute to nature in a sustainable way. This study aims to analyze the user self-assessment effectiveness of a cream formulation for daily moisturizing of the skin, with natural ingredients, including bee products, local plant material of the region of Trás-Os-Montes, and vegetable oils. Twenty-two individuals aged between 24 and 74 years were included in the product's effectiveness study. The pre-use self-assessment shows that most of volunteers presented mixed skin type (at least three in five individuals). For dry skin individuals (one in five individuals), skin jerking and the rapid absorption of the products are the main issues. The assessment of product efficacy was measured based on a post-use questionnaire. The results obtained for nonplacebo users in the assessments are presented in Figure 1. The product exhibits positive performance for all the attributes under assessment. For products efficacy the highlight is for hydration and skin smoothness. For products attributes, ease application scores the maximum of 3.3 points. Different, wrinkles reduction and fragrance present less favourable results. When asked about the willingness to buy the product only one in four users respond negatively, mainly because of the strong fragrance of the preservative agent product. Users willing to buy/recommending the product to a friend mention the satisfactory results obtained, hydration performance and natural product as the determinant for that decision. The users willing to buy the product consider to do it at an average price of 10€ for a 50ml package.The authors are grateful to the Foundation for Science and Technology (FCT, Portugal) for financial support by national funds FCT/MCTES to CIMO (UIDB/00690/2020)info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

Utilization of bee products on the development of cosmetic formulation with terpenes preservatives from Trás-os-Montes aromatic plants

The use of natural cosmetics is nowadays becoming increasingly frequent given to the notice of consumers to the consequences of using chemically synthesized compounds, which may even be carcinogenic. This work aimed to develop a cream formulation for daily moisturizing of the skin, with natural ingredients, like bee products, plants of the region of Trás-Os-Montes and vegetable oils. Among bee products, beeswax was chosen for its properties, like skin repairing power and antimicrobial power. In more detail, two sage plants (Salvia officinalis and Salvia elegans) and the thyme species Thymus zygis subsp. zygis were used as sources of antioxidants. The phenolic profile of the hydroalcoholic extracts of sage were elucidated by UHPLC-DAD-ESI-MS2 analysis, while the composition of the essential oil of T. zygis subsp. zygis was determined by GC/ GC-MS. The antimicrobial activities were evaluated by microdilution broth method and by diffusion agar test. The obtained formulations were subjected to physicochemical and microbiological stability tests. The major phenolic components of S. officinalis extract were rosmarinic acid, apigenin-Oglucuronide, scutellarein-O-glucuronide and luteolin-7-O-glucuronide while S. elegans was mostly composed by rosmarinic acid, salvianolic acid K, luteolin-7-O-glucuronide and caffeic acid. The GC/ GC-MS analysis of essential oil of T. zygis subsp. zygis was mainly composed of carvacrol, cymene and trans-sabinene hydrate. The formulations had pH values slightly acid, similar to the skin pH. No phase separation or alteration of the organoleptic criteria of the formulations were observed. The stability of the products was also verified by spectrophotometer within the UV visible region between 210 and 600 nm, especially the sample containing olive oil and 5% of S. elegans hydroalcoholic extract. A non- Newtonien behavior, criterion sought in cosmetic creams, was also observed during the analysis by the texturometer. Additionally, the thyme volatile oil, used as a preservative in the cream, showed an inhibitory effect against Staphylococcus aureus (MIC and MBC < 0.031%), Pseudomonas sp (MIC and MBC = 1.25%), Escherichia coli (MIC and MBC = 0.31%) and Candida albicans. Above a degree of 0.31%, thyme oil showed in C. albicans, inhibition zones varying from 2 to 9.5 mm against C. albicans, in the agar diffusion test. The promising results of these work allows propose beeswax, S. officinalis, S. elegans and T. zygis subsp. zygis as active ingredients for natural cosmetic formulations.Thanks to FCT (Portugal) and the ERDF under the PT2020 Program for financial support to CIMO (UIDB/00690/2020) and LAQVREQUIMTE (UIDB/50006/2020). SMC acknowledges the research contract under the project AgroForWealth (CENTRO-01-0145- FEDER-000001).info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

Utilization of bee products on the development of cosmetic formulation with terpenes preservatives from Trás-os-Montes aromatic plants

The use of natural cosmetics is nowadays becoming increasingly frequent given to the notice of consumers to the consequences of using chemically synthesized compounds, which may even be carcinogenic. This work aimed to develop a cream formulation for daily moisturizing of the skin, with natural ingredients, like bee products, plants of the region of Trás-Os-Montes and vegetable oils. Among bee products, beeswax was chosen for its properties, like skin repairing power and antimicrobial power. In more detail, two sage plants (Salvia officinalis and Salvia elegans) and the thyme species Thymus zygis subsp. zygis were used as sources of antioxidants. The phenolic profile of the hydroalcoholic extracts of sage were elucidated by UHPLC-DAD-ESI-MS2 analysis, while the composition of the essential oil of T. zygis subsp. zygis was determined by GC/ GC-MS. The antimicrobial activities were evaluated by microdilution broth method and by diffusion agar test. The obtained formulations were subjected to physicochemical and microbiological stability tests. The major phenolic components of S. officinalis extract were rosmarinic acid, apigenin-Oglucuronide, scutellarein-O-glucuronide and luteolin-7-O-glucuronide while S. elegans was mostly composed by rosmarinic acid, salvianolic acid K, luteolin-7-O-glucuronide and caffeic acid. The GC/ GC-MS analysis of essential oil of T. zygis subsp. zygis was mainly composed of carvacrol, cymene and trans-sabinene hydrate. The formulations had pH values slightly acid, similar to the skin pH. No phase separation or alteration of the organoleptic criteria of the formulations were observed. The stability of the products was also verified by spectrophotometer within the UV visible region between 210 and 600 nm, especially the sample containing olive oil and 5% of S. elegans hydroalcoholic extract. A non- Newtonien behavior, criterion sought in cosmetic creams, was also observed during the analysis by the texturometer. Additionally, the thyme volatile oil, used as a preservative in the cream, showed an inhibitory effect against Staphylococcus aureus (MIC and MBC < 0.031%), Pseudomonas sp (MIC and MBC = 1.25%), Escherichia coli (MIC and MBC = 0.31%) and Candida albicans. Above a degree of 0.31%, thyme oil showed in C. albicans, inhibition zones varying from 2 to 9.5 mm against C. albicans, in the agar diffusion test. The promising results of these work allows propose beeswax, S. officinalis, S. elegans and T. zygis subsp. zygis as active ingredients for natural cosmetic formulations.Thanks to FCT (Portugal) and the ERDF under the PT2020 Program for financial support to CIMO (UIDB/00690/2020) and LAQVREQUIMTE (UIDB/50006/2020). SMC acknowledges the research contract under the project AgroForWealth (CENTRO-01-0145- FEDER-000001).info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio