Synthesis and cation-receptor properties of macrocyclic imines of anthraquinone

At the present study a series of crown-containing imines of 1-hydroxy-9,10-anthraquinone with donor and acceptor substituents at the anthraquinone nucleus were synthesized. Compounds were prepared photochemically from the corresponding photoactive 1-phenoxyanthraquinones and 4-aminobenzo-15-crown-5 ether. It was established spectrophotometrically that for crown-containing anthraquinone imines that are characterized by "imine-enamine" prototropic tautomerism, the insertion of acceptor substituents shifts the equilibrium to the "enamine" form. This shift leads to essential spectral changes in complexing chlor- and nitrocontaining macrocyclic imines of anthraquinone with alkali and alkaline-earth metal cations

Memories reminisced, reconciled, renewed: Hong Kong male consumers’ wardrobes and their search for a congruent self

Previous research on fashion, clothing and accessorising practices typically stressed either the symbolic and identity-creating or practical and habitual functions of fashion, often neglecting its affective, emotive and mnemonic aspects. Drawing on affective theory and the agency of things, we theorise how the affects, feelings and emotions attached to active and inactive fashion objects evoke and are evoked by the consumer’s ongoing reminiscence, reconciliation, and renewal of memories. Remapping the intricate relationship among consumers, memory, affect, and fashion objects, this article employs wardrobe study interviews to reconceptualise the clothing consumption, storage and disposal practices of male fashion consumers in Hong Kong and their trans-temporal self-memory-object relationships. Interviewing 21 gay male participants while physically going through their wardrobes together reveals the mnemonic abilities of clothes and accessories to bring up the past, their functioning as emotive devices, and the process of how affective, unpatterned feelings and sensations are reminisced, reconciled and renewed through fashion. These unique theoretical and methodological approaches make it possible to delve deeper into consumers’ intimate material and sensual relationships with clothing and accessory items, which are often used to make sense of incongruent memories and future fantasies, also enabling their ongoing mediation of unresolved affective experiences and curation of a linear cultural script of personal development

Made in China, fashioned in Africa: ethnic dress in Ethiopia and Mozambique

The influx of Chinese-made African ethnic dress has been central to debates about the consequences of the growing Chinese presence in Africa. Exploring the reception of the Chinese-produced capulana in Mozambique and net'ela in Ethiopia, we demonstrate that Mozambican and Ethiopian manufacturers and traders, from the grass roots up to cultural elites, engage with Chinese imports with creativity and verve. While welcoming Chinese materials for their affordability, bold and bright colours and suitability for dressmaking, they fashion them in ways that fit their own tastes and the local fashion trends. We distinguish three practices by which people do this: first, by incorporating Chinese materials or design elements into their own products; second, by co-creating new designs and dress with their Chinese counterparts; and third, by altering the imported fabrics. Apart from fashioning imports, some manufacturers use strategies to distinguish their own products from Chinese counterparts. These strategies include naming practices linked to the stories of their origin and alterations to the material

Luxury consumption and the temporal-spatial subjectivity

Extending critical luxury studies to a non-Western context, this article, using Burberry and other Western brands as examples, theorises how the temporal-spatial luxury subjectivity of homosexual Hong Kong male consumers is constituted through the intersections of British colonial history, nostalgia, the media, their personal and professional background, gender, social class, and emotional experiences. Using a consumer-focused anthropological perspective, we analyse how subjective, context-specific, and interwoven experiences of time and space co-constitute one’s perception of luxury and recurring luxury consumption practices alongside the forces of social structure and individual preferences. Dissecting consumers’ habitual and intimate relations to their wardrobes in the Hong Kong context, this article challenges and refines existing Eurocentric concepts of luxury, and helps clarify how (far) abstract macro-structural forces are consistently materialised into the normative outlook of luxury and micro-individual consumption practices