Reinventarea industriei portugheze de tricotaje: cazul modelului de management al etichetei private Pedrosa & Rodrigues

During the first decade of this century, the Portuguese knitwear industry, and textile cluster, were strongly affected by globalisation and seemed destined to decline. The Portuguese knitwear industry developed for decades a business model based on price as the main competitive factor, and that model was no longer able to support competitiveness against low wages countries. Portuguese knitwear industry made a dramatic change towards a competition based on value to the client. The companies adopted as primary differentiation drives technological innovation, design, fashion, and services customer-oriented, together with more presence on international fairs and exhibitions. The new strategy resulted in the significant growth of exports that reached 40% from 2009 to 2018. The restructuring of the cluster, however, changed it significantly, and the number of companies was reduced by almost 50%. The competitive change made the entire Portuguese textile cluster an international case study where the modern concept of private label business model is central. The business model of private label adopted by the most competitive knitwear companies considered a full package of services to international clients. It integrated the collection’s design, raw materials development, superior finishing, careful and cost-effective confection and sophisticated logistics. Pedrosa & Rodrigues, SA. is a midcap company from Barcelos County, North of Portugal, and is a highly successful example of the new competitive paradigms. This new model is now leading the Portuguese knitwear industry to a higher level in the value chain and gives it a strong reputation worldwide.În primul deceniu al acestui secol, industria portugheză de tricotaje și clusterul textil au fost puternic afectate de globalizare și păreau să intre într-un declin. Industria portugheză de tricotaje a dezvoltat timp de decenii un model de afaceri bazat pe preț ca principal factor competitiv, iar acel model nu mai era capabil să susțină competitivitatea în țările cu salarii mici. Industria portugheză de tricotaje a făcut o schimbare dramatică către o concurență bazată pe valoare adăugată pentru client. Companiile au adoptat ca motor de diferențiere primară inovația tehnologică, designul, moda și serviciile orientate către client, împreună cu o mai mare prezență la târgurile și expozițiile internaționale. Noua strategie a avut ca rezultat o creștere semnificativă a exporturilor, care a atins 40% în perioada 2009–2018. Cu toate acestea, restructurarea clusterului a schimbat acest lucru în mod semnificativ, iar numărul companiilor a fost redus cu aproximativ 50%. Schimbarea concurențială a făcut ca întregul cluster textil portughez să devină un studiu de caz internațional, în care conceptul modern al modelului de afaceri cu etichetă privată este central. Modelul de afaceri cu etichetă privată adoptat de cele mai competitive companii de tricotaje a luat în considerare un pachet complet de servicii pentru clienții internaționali. A integrat designul colecției, dezvoltarea materiilor prime, finisaje superioare, produse atent create și rentabile, precum și logistică sofisticată. Pedrosa & Rodrigues SA este o întreprindere mijlocie din regiunea Barcelos, din nordul Portugaliei și este un exemplu de mare succes al noilor paradigme competitive. Acest nou model conduce acum industria portugheză de tricotaje la un nivel mai înalt în lanțul valoric și îi conferă o reputație puternică în întreaga lume.The authors gratefully acknowledge the Project UID/CTM/00264/2019 of 2C2T – Centro de Ciência e Tecnologia Têxtil, funded by National Founds through FCT/MCTES

The design and performance of high-performance perforated fired masonry bricks

Fire perforated clay masonry units have been extensively used through years in masonry structures, particularly in masonry walls both for loadbearing and non-loadbearing purposes (partition walls and enclosures). The location of the masonry walls as external enclosure brings some physical requirements, which together with mechanical requirements are the basis of the design of hollow clay bricks. This chapter provides an overview of the design requirements and design concepts of hollow clay bricks, together with some recent trends arising in the framework of obtaining more sustainable constructive materials. It discusses the main issues related to the mechanical performance of the units and of the masonry assemblages under distinct loading conditions. As often the unreinforced hollow clay masonry is built in seismic prone regions, an emphasis is given to the seismic behavior of hollow clay brick masonry under combined vertical and lateral in-plane loading, being discussed the main seismic performance parameters

Escala comportamental de suporte social familiar para adolescentes com diabetes (DFBS)

O suporte social familiar tem um papel importante na promoção da adesão ao tratamento e no controlo metabólico. O presente trabalho teve como objectivo a adaptação da Escala Comportamental de Suporte Social Familiar na Diabetes (DFBS) numa amostra de 256 adolescentes com Diabetes Tipo 1. Os resultados apontam para uma composição da escala em 33 itens, organizados em 2 componentes: Controlo-Aconselhamento e Afecto, que explicam 33.3% da variabilidade, apresentando cada subescala um alfa de .76 e .81, respectivamente, e a escala total um alfa de .91. Ao nível da validade externa os resultados no DFBS correlacionam-se positivamente com a adesão ao tratamento e negativamente com o controlo metabólico e stress face à diabetes. Não se verificaram diferenças entre rapazes e raparigas ao nível do suporte social familiar. Em suma, a escala DFBS demonstrou possuir as qualidades psicométricas que permitem a sua utilização em adolescentes diabéticos tipo 1.Family Social Support is very important on treatment adherence and metabolic control. This paper intended to adapt the diabetes family behavior scale in a sample of 256 adolescents with diabetes type 1. Results show the scale as including 33 items, organized in two dimensions: Control/Advice and Affect that explained 33.3% of variance with each subscale presenting an alpha of .76 and .81 respectively. In terms of external validity, scores in DFBS are positively correlated with adherence and negatively and negatively metabolic control and stress to diabetes. No differences were found between boys and girls regarding family social support. Overall, DFBS showed the psychometric properties necessary for its utilization with adolescents with type 2 diabetes

Modern masonry structures and earthquakes : reinforced or unreinforced?

The evolution of structural masonry is briefly reviewed, from old thrust line behavior to modern global behavior using shear walls. For modern structural masonry, the use of unreinforced, confined and reinforced masonry is addressed in seismic areas. A first focus is given to recent approaches towards the safety assessment of unreinforced masonry buildings and their performance in shaking table tests. Subsequently, building systems for modern masonry structures recently developed and tested at University of Minho are presented, one based on lightweight concrete blocks and another based on normal concrete blocks. The experimental and numerical work carried out is discussed and conclusions on the performance of the systems are given

Evaluation of the in-plane seismic performance of stone masonry walls

Although traditional historic masonry walls can be viewed as unsuitable structures to undergo seismic actions, they, in fact, exist and frequently represent the major structural elements of ancient buildings. Brick unreinforced masonry walls have been widely studied both from experimental and numerical point of view, but scarce experimental information is available for stone masonry walls. Therefore, the present work aims at increasing the insight about the behavior of typical ancient masonry walls under cyclic loading. Besides the strength and stiffness characterization, information about nonlinear deformation capacity is provided in terms of ductility factor and lateral drifts, which represent a step forward for the new concepts of performance based design

Análise experimental do comportamento de paredes de alvenaria de pedra não reforçada sob acções cíclicas no plano

Com o presente trabalho pretende-se efectuar a avaliação experimental do comportamento de paredes de alvenaria de pedra não reforçada, com diferente aparelho das pedras em alçado, submetidas a acções horizontais cíclicas no plano. A análise dos resultados experimentais abrange a caracterização dos mecanismos de rotura, padrões de fendilhação, e a determinação da resistência última das paredes a acções horizontais cíclicas. Adicionalmente, realiza-se a discussão da resposta em termos de diagramas força-deslocamento, bem como o estudo comparativo da resistência e rigidez lateral para os dois tipos de paredes ensaiadas.Empresa Augusto Ferreira. Bettor MBT

Assessment of the in-plane shear strength of stone masonry walls by simplified models

The present work intends to represent a further step in the knowledge of ancient stone masonry walls through an experimental approach, from which only few information is available. The main results of an experimental program based on in-plane static cyclic tests conduct on masonry wall panels with distinct masonry bond are presented. It is also revealed that simplified models, often used to predict the lateral shear strength of brick masonry walls submitted to static in-plane lateral loading, are also valid for stone masonry walls. Besides, the prediction of the lateral strength by means of a novel equilibrium model is also pointed out

Availability and information needs in the chemical contaminants domain – PortFIR assessment

Chemical contaminants (Chc) can be naturally present and/or be introduced in food and feed as result of the various stages of its production, processing and transport and/or due to environmental contamination. The analysis of Chc laboratory data allows to generate information for continuous improvement of food safety and protection of public health. In order to define priorities for development of the Contaminants Database of the Portuguese Food Information Resource (PortFIR), it was decided to identify and assess the availability and information needs on food and feed Chc of the main Portuguese stakeholders in the area.N/

PortFIR – An integrated data provider as support for the food policy-makers

Introduction: Portuguese Food Composition Table (TCA) is managed by the National Institute of Health Doutor Ricardo Jorge (INSA) and is publicly available on the Portuguese Food Information Resource (PortFIR) platform. PortFIR, besides food composition data, was designed to include data on food contamination and food consumption, in order to provide national data easily available in one platform. Objective:To compile and make widely available food-related data (food composition, food safety and food consumption), while providing science-based information, to support food policy-makers.info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio

Food Composition Table user’s utilization and needs PortFIR assessment

Food composition tables (FCT) and databases (FCDB) are very important data resources that can contribute to the achievement of health gains through the improvement of knowledge and nutritional status of the population and the promotion of healthy eating, however they are far from complete. Therefore, a continuous development and update of these resources, with great focus in their user’s needs, should be considered a priority. Objectives: To identify and assess the type of utilization and needs of the Portuguese FCT/FCDB (TCA) user’s, in order to define priorities for its development and update.info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio