Don’t Look Back: The Paradoxical Role of Recording in the Fashion Design Process

Although there is little systematic research in academia or industry examining design processes in Fashion, anecdotal evidence, based on self- reports and observations, suggests that designers very rarely record the process of designing. Conversely, benefits and requirements of recording the design process within other domains, such as Engineering and Architecture, are well supported in the literature. This paper attempts to explore the dichotomy of recording and non-recording practice across these fields through a review of the literature, semi-structured interviews and a report on one case study in particular, drawing out further detail. Commonalities and differences are identified and new directions for research proposed

Intermediate valence behavior in CeCo9Si4

The novel ternary compound CeCo$_9$Si$_4$ has been studied by means of specific heat, magnetisation, and transport measurements. Single crystal X-ray Rietveld refinements reveal a fully ordered distribution of Ce, Co and Si atoms with the tetragonal space group I4/mcm isostructural with other RCo9Si4. The smaller lattice constants of CeCo9Si4 in comparison with the trend established by other RCo9Si4 is indicative for intermediate valence of cerium. While RCo9Si4 with R= Pr, .. Tb, and Y show ferromagnetism and LaCo9Si4 is nearly ferromagnetic, CeCo9Si4 remains paramagnetic even in external fields as large as 40 T, though its electronic specific heat coefficient (g~190 mJ/molK^2) is of similar magnitude as that of metamagnetic LaCo9Si4 and weakly ferromagnetic YCo9Si4.Comment: 2 pages, 3 figures, submitted to SCES 0

Anisotropic magnetic behavior of GdBa_2Cu_3O_{6+y} single crystals

Magnetic properties of high-quality Al-free nonsuperconducting GdBa_2Cu_3O_{6+y} single crystals grown by flux method have been studied. The magnetic anisotropy below the N\'eel temperature T_N~2.3K corresponds to the direction of Gd^{3+} magnetic moments along the tetragonal c-axis. At T < T_N clear indications of spin-flop transitions for H||c have been observed on magnetization curves at H_{sf}~10kOe. Magnetic phase diagrams have been obtained for H||c as well as for H||ab. A pronounced anisotropy in the magnetic susceptibility (unexpected for Gd-based compounds) has been found above T_N.Comment: 2 pages, 3 figures; LT23 (Aug. 2002; Hiroshima), accepted to Physica

Towards Understanding Spontaneous Speech: Word Accuracy vs. Concept Accuracy

In this paper we describe an approach to automatic evaluation of both the speech recognition and understanding capabilities of a spoken dialogue system for train time table information. We use word accuracy for recognition and concept accuracy for understanding performance judgement. Both measures are calculated by comparing these modules' output with a correct reference answer. We report evaluation results for a spontaneous speech corpus with about 10000 utterances. We observed a nearly linear relationship between word accuracy and concept accuracy.Comment: 4 pages PS, Latex2e source importing 2 eps figures, uses icslp.cls, caption.sty, psfig.sty; to appear in the Proceedings of the Fourth International Conference on Spoken Language Processing (ICSLP 96

Lamp reliability studies for improved satellite rubidium frequency standard

In response to the premature failure of Rb lamps used in Rb atomic clocks onboard NAVSTAR GPS satellites experimental and theoretical investigations into their failure mechanism were initiated. The primary goal of these studies is the development of an accelerated life test for future GPS lamps. The primary failure mechanism was identified as consumption of the lamp's Rb charge via direct interaction between Rb and the lamp's glass surface. The most effective parameters to accelerate the interaction between the Rb and the glass are felt to be RF excitation power and lamp temperature. Differential scanning calorimetry is used to monitor the consumption of Rb within a lamp as a function of operation time. This technique yielded base line Rb consumption data for GPS lamps operating under normal conditions

Temperature dependence of P680+ reduction in O2-evolving PS II membrane fragments at different redox states Si of the water oxidizing system

AbstractThe electron transfer kinetics from Z to P680+ was analyzed as a function of temperature in the range of 248<T< 295 K by measuring absorption changes induced at 830 nm by a laser flash train in dark adapted O2 evolving PS II membrane fragments from spinach. It was found: (i) that the kinetics of P680+ reduction and their dependence on the redox state Si of the catalytic site of water oxidation are only slightly affected by temperature within the physiological range of 270<T<295 K. (ii) In the dark relaxed state S, the electron transfer from Z to P680+ exhibits an activation energy of the order of 10 kJ/mol in 248<T<295 K. (iii) In the 2nd and subsequent flashes of the train the ability for a stable charge separation between P680+ and Q−A, markedly decreases below −10°C. This phenomenon is assumed to be due to a strong effect of temperature on the electron transfer from Q−A to QB. The results are briefly discussed in relation to possible effects of structural changes in the D-1/D-2 polypeptide complex on the reaction coordinate of electron transfer steps in PS II

Magnetic properties of Gd_{1-x}Pr_xBa_2Cu_3O_{7-y} single crystals

Magnetic properties were studied for the high quality Al-free orthorhombic Gd_{1-x}Pr_xBa_2Cu_3O_{7-y} single crystals (0<=x<=1.0) grown by the flux method. An indication on the interaction between the Pr and Cu(2) magnetic sublattices was found for Pr123. Different signs of magnetic anisotropy were established for the Pr and Gd ions at low temperatures. It was also shown that superconductivity reported by Zou et al. [Phys. Rev. Lett. 80 (1998) 1074] for Pr123 single crystals grown by TSZF method seems to be connected with partial substitution of Ba for the Pr-sites.Comment: 2 pages (LaTeX2e), 4 EPS figures, phbauth style file included. LT22 conference paper accepted to Physica

Critical properties of the double exchange ferromagnet Nd0.4Pb0.4MnO3

Results of a study of dc-magnetization M(T, H), performed on a Nd0.6Pb0.4MnO3 single crystal in the temperature range around T_C (Curie temperature) which embraces the critical region | epsilon | = |T -T_C |/T_C <= 0.05 are reported. The magnetic data analyzed in the critical region using the Kouvel-Fisher method give the values for the T_C =156.47 +/- 0.06 K and the critical exponents, beta = 0.374 +/- 0.006 (from the temperature dependence of magnetization), and gamma = 1.329 +/- 0.003 (from the temperature dependence of initial susceptibility). The critical isotherm M(T_C, H) gives delta = 4.547 +/- 0.1. Thus the scaling law gamma+beta=delta beta is fulfilled. The critical exponents obey the single scaling-equation of state M(H, epsilon) = epsilon^b f_+/- (H/epsilon^(beta + gamma)) where, f_+ for T > T_C and f_- for T< T_C. The exponent values are very close to those expected for the universality class of 3D Heisenberg ferromagnets with short-range interactions.Comment: 19 pages, including 6 figure