The electro-spinning devices the opened door to the nano dimension

Nano tim u Laboratoriju za fizikalna i mehanička ispitivanja tekstila (Laboratoire de Physique et Mécanique Textiles- LPMT) razvija i istražuje od 2004. uređaje za elektroispredanje sa svrhom dobivanja filamentnih proizvoda promjera u nano dimenzijama. Da bi se to postiglo, provedena su istraživanja u različitim smjerovima, jedno u smjeru razvoja uređaja za elektroispredanje, drugo u smjeru razvoja uvjeta elektroispredanja i njihovog optimiranja, i treće u smjeru razvoja proizvoda posebnih svojstava s obzirom na strukturu i orijentaciju filamenata. Tako dobiveni proizvodi uglavnom su razvijeni za medicinske svrhe.Since 2004, the Nano-team of LPMT has developed and investigated the electro-spinning facilities in order to produce products made of filament presenting a nano-size in diameters. In order to achieve these goals, the following studies have been carried out in different directions, one on the electro-spinning devices, one on the electro-spinning conditions and their optimisation and the last area to be studied has been the development of product with specific properties in terms of structure and filament orientations. These products are mainly developed for medical purposes

Comparison between french and portuguese sensory evaluation applied on wool light fabrics

In the frame of bilateral collaboration, the same samples made of wool and dedicated to men suits (light fabrics) have been tested through sensory evaluation panel that has been developed in France (Mulhouse) and Portugal (Guimarães). In this paper, the obtained results have been analyzed, discussed, simulated and differences obtained have been statistically analyzed. It is appeared that for some samples the two panels have highlighted the same marking or the same trends and for others the evaluations have been really different. An analysis, attribute per attribute, have been carried out and it has been shown that some attributes have not been evaluated in the same manner depending on the nationality of the panelists.Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia (FCT

Intelligent Techniques for Modeling the Relationships between Sensory Attributes and Instrumental Measurements of Knitted Fabrics

ABSTRACT The present investigation provides a promising tool for engineering industrial products design. In fact, two soft computing approaches, namely artificial neural network (ANN) and fuzzy inference system (FIS), have been applied to model the relationship between sensory properties and instrumental measurements of knitted fabrics. The prediction performance of these models was evaluated using the root mean square error (RMSE). The obtained results show the models' ability to predict tactile sensory attributes from the measured surface and compression properties. These neural and fuzzy models may help textile industrialists to satisfy the specific needs of consumers

Human-Friendly Design of Virtual System “female Body-dress”

Recently, the development efforts focused on the computer simulation of garments, which depend on the material's physico-mechanical properties. It intends to achieve the best possible and realistic simulations of garments, which are available for pressure prediction. In this manner, 3D garment virtual technology improvements allow the visualization of pressure areas with values where the fabric might be too tight against the body. Although the purposes of simulation graphics were acceptable, the accuracy for apparel shaping is not enough to meet the needs of Virtual Prototyping and CAD utilization especially while the fabric properties system design was inadequate. Moreover, the existing pressure simulation is intended to simply predict the pressure index or how the textile deformation extend, which are deficient in real human's perception. In this research, the 3D shapes belonging to typical female bodies and dresses made of different fabrics were obtained by 3D body scanners (ScanWorX and TELMAT). Through reconstruction for the 3D torso shapes, the volumetric eases between body and dress were calculated by means of a software Rhinoceros. A new approach for the selection of textile properties based on the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) was proposed to investigate its relations with dress shaping and pressure comfort. Finally, fabric properties tested by the KES-F system were compared with volumetric eases, objective pressure indexes and subjective comfort scores to reveal the relations how the fabric properties have impacts on dress outside shaping and inside pressure comfort of a female body. In this manner, the human-friendly CAD instead of mechanical approach existing before has been presented as a new approach to promote the construction of a realistic system for the 3D simulation optimization

Sewing Thread Consumption for Chain Stitches of Class 400 using Geometrical and Multilinear Regression Models

This work deals with determination of rapid and precise methods to predict the amount of sewing thread needed to sew a garment using different chain stitches of the class 400 (from 401 to 407 chain stitches). At first, to avoid unused stocks, sewing consumption value was determined using a geometrical method (based on different chain stitch shapes). The prediction of the sewing thread consumption was proposed as a function of the studied input parameters, which are fabric thickness, stitch density, yarn linear density, and stitch width. Then, a statistical method based on the multilinear regression was studied. Geometrical and statistical results were discussed. Based on the R2 range, we concluded that the geometrical method is more accurate than the statistical one (from 98.16 to 99.19% and from 97.30 to 98.51%, respectively). Thus, this result encourages industrialists to use geometrical models to predict thread consumption

A Multi-Criteria Decision-Making Approach for Woven Fabric Selection and Grading for Ladies Summer Apparel

In the garment industry, selection of the most appropriate fabric for apparel manufacturing plays a vital role in customer satisfaction. Identification of the best fabric from a set of available options in the presence of conflicting selection criteria is often a quite challenging multi-criteria decision-making problem. In this study, analytic hierarchy process (AHP) and Preference Ranking Organization Method for Enrichment Evaluation (PROMETHEE) are used to solve fabric selection problem for apparel manufacturing. The AHP identifies relative weights of the selection criteria, whereas the PROMETHEE II method ranks the alternative fabrics based on their net outranking flows. The ranking of cotton fabrics based on multiple decision criteria of different weights is successfully achieved using combined AHP and PROMETHEE approach, which is applicable to selection of textile raw materials at any stage of the value chain. AHP and Visual PROMETHEE approach are integrated to provide a holistic methodology for fabric ranking and selection in the light of multiple selection criteria

Influence of Yarn Count and Cover Factor on Mechanical, Comfort, Aesthetic and Hand Properties of Ladies’ Summer Apparel Fabrics

Fine cotton fabrics are extremely popular for ladies’ summer apparel in the Sub-continent, the Middle East and those parts of the world which are known for hot and humid summer seasons. The purpose of this study was to investigate the mechanical, comfort, and hand properties of fine cotton fabrics by systematically varying the fabric cover factor using two of the most commonly used yarn counts. After undergoing the same pre-treatment processes, fabric test results revealed improvement in fabric wrinkle recovery, smoothness, and resilience with increase in cover factor values from 21 to 26, while deterioration in fabric tear strength, air permeability, moisture management capability, drapability, and softness. It was also revealed that when fabric tear strength and resilience is a priority, production of a specific cover-factor fabric with coarser yarn count gives better results, whereas for better wrinkle recovery, drapability, smoothness, softness, moisture management capability, and air permeability, production of the same cover-factor fabric with finer yarns gives more desirable results