AN ANALYSIS OF THE INFLUENCE OF THE TEXTILE MATERIAL DOUBLING PROCESS BY THERMOFUSING ON VAPOR PERMEABILITY

To confer shape and volume parameters, to ensure dimensional stability of surfaces and contours, some parts of clothing are doubled using the process of thermofusion with certain woven or nonwoven chemicalized materials. A priority in the work of producers of fabrics and textiles is to ensure comfort parameters and functions of apparel products are met and respected. Clothing products should ensure optimum insulation, air permeability, moisture absorption and transfer in order to give the wearer wellbeing and safety. In this paper we propose to analyze the influence of the technological process of doubling on the vapour permeability of the doubled assembly, compared with the permeability of the non-doubled material. As materials made of natural fibers are increasingly required, we focused on two natural fiber fabrics – 100% linen and 100% cotton - and a mixed natural fiber material – 64% linen, 34% viscose and 2% elastane. They were each doubled using thermofusion with woven or nonwoven chemicalized materials composed of wool mixed with polyamide. Laboratory measurements allow us to conclude to what extent the vapor permeability of the thermofused assemblies is influenced

FOOTWEAR DIVERSIFICATION BY TYPIFICATION OF COMPONENT PARTS

Diversification of a footwear product, constructively designed in a basic model, can be assured by putting into practice several diversification criteria. With this respect, the paper presents the results of the research on the diversification of a footwear product by typification of component parts. Thus, starting from a leisure time model of men shoe with vamp and whole quarters, diversification was made by detailing the basic patterns of the uppers. The detailing of the basic drawing of the uppers was made so that the outer contour of the two parts (the vamp and quarter) remains unchanged even in the case of patterns consisting of several components. Also, the vamp-quarter merging line will keep its position on the shoe last, its length, and its configuration unchanged. Under these circumstances, by detailing the vamp and the quarter, several variants of these fragmented parts resulted, which are considered typified parts. The use of typified parts for uppers will ensure the diversification of the basic model. The analysis of the resulting model variants led to highlighting the influence of the number of component parts of the uppers and of the set area on the usage index of the leather surface and the specific consumption at cutting

RESEARCH REGARDING THE PARTS CUTTING QUALITY FROM FOOTWEAR UPPERS COMPOSITION AND THE QUANTITY OF WASTES OBTAINED

This paper highlights the importance of cutting of flexible parts that are part of the upper assembly of a footwear product, so that we should take into account both the quality of cut parts and the amount of waste produced during cutting.With regard to the quality of the parts being cut, it is useful to consider the directions of the minimum stretch of the hide, as well as the defective areas of the hide that should be avoided. An important role is played by the quality and condition of the blades, cutting hubs, adjusting the machine and last but not least the worker’s qualification. The amount of waste resulting from cutting should be as small as possible, because only in this way we can insure a good usage index of the hide, as well as a reduced consumption norm.To highlight these aspects we considered two models of footwear for women. We have to calculate the amount of waste resulting from cutting. We will make practical and theoretical arrangements so as to obtain an arrangement factor as high as possible, which can exceed 70%. Can be concluded that the quality of the cut parts is particularly good as it is obtained with a smaller amount of waste. To ensure an optimal cutting it is recommended to have highly skilled workers so that they conform to the rule of cutting, according to which the parts are arranged so that the maximum stress direction coincides with the minimum stretch of material

LOAD EQUILIBRATION OF WORKING PLACES ARRANGED ON CONVEYORS USED FOR FOOTWEAR UPPERS MANUFACTURING

In the present paper there is presented how to achieve a load equilibration of workstations for a conveyor with imposed pace, in the case of manufacturing uppers for a women boots model. Equilibration of work charging is done by switching worker’s operations in order to use at full time each worker placed in the technological flow process. In the manufacruring process of shoe uppers of the considered model, there have been established the operative time and production rates per operation. Thus there has been calculated the work necessary amount Nci for accomplishing different production rates: Q=600,650, 700, 750... 900pairs/ 8 h and the necessary amount of work Nai was adopted. A technology line of manufacturing a footwear item is used at its optimum capacity when the number of work vacancy is minimum, 0.013 corresponding to a flow production of 700pairs / 8h the highest labor productivity being obtained, ie 17.5 pairs / worker • 8h. By equilibrating the work charge for each operation, it is obtained, for a daily production of 700pairs / 8h, a reduction of the number of workspaces from 40 to 36 workers and hence a labor productivity of 19.44 pairs / worker • 8h

THE INFLUENCE OF DOUBLING OF TEXTILE MATERIALS THROUGH THERMOFUSING ON THEIR HIDROPHILICITY

In the textile industry, the majority of clothing products, especially outerwear products, have some parts doubled up through thermofusing with other textile fabrics, woven or nonwoven, in order to provide some volume of shape, to fix contours, or to confer dimensional stability to the respective area . In this paper, we aim to highlight the influence on hydrofilicity of natural fiber materials of vegetable origin - flax and cotton - and of mixed natural fiber materials, by the process of doubling through thermofusing with chemicalized materials, woven or nonwoven. From laboratory measurements of the moisture absorption ability for these materials, fused or nonfused, woven or nonwoven, we conclude on the influence of these processes on the hydrofilicity of the fused ensemble and over the sanogenetic indicators that any fashion product must ensure for the wearer. Ensuring the comfort and compliance of clothing products is a priority of the producers of fabrics and textile garments. A clothing item should ensure optimum insulation, breathability, moisture absorption and air permeability to give the wearer comfort, wellbeing and safety. We focused on natural fiber materials of plant origin, since they are increasingly being used in the textile industry with beneficial influences on the state of comfort of the wearer

POST COVID-19 CHALLENGES AND PERSPECTIVES FOR A SUSTAINABLE FASHION RETAIL- CASE FROM ROMANIA

<p><strong>Purpose</strong> – This study is carried out to analyze the impact of COVID-19 on the fashion industry, and the opportunities for growth in the actual turbulent environment.</p><p><strong>Methodology/approach</strong> - The methodology followed for this study involves a review of related literature and a quantitative online survey. Both primary and secondary data were collected for this study. Primary data was collected through 276 questionnaires, and the secondary data was gathered through internet search from research results from national and international statistical reports.</p><p><strong>Findings</strong> – Second-hand clothes shopping becomes an alternative for responsible consumption, towards a circular economy, as an opportunity for fashion retail diversification. The reuse of textiles is a niche activity and is less costly than upstream initiatives to change the design, and production from a circular economy perspective.</p><p><strong>Research limitations/implications</strong> – The limitations of the study are that the sample was restricted to the region of Central and Nord-West Romania. </p><p><strong>Practical implications</strong> – Results of this study could be used by different actors – such as retailers, fashion designers, and education institutions, focusing on engaging consumers in active roles that foster Circular Economy success.</p><p><strong>Originality/value</strong> – The study fills a gap in the literature on the subject of sustainable fashion in Romania. </p&gt

STUDY REGARDING THE STITCHING STRENGTH OF MATERIALS USED FOR FOOTWEAR UPPERS MANUFACTURING

The shoes manufacturing implies the use of various types of leathers, leather substitutes and fabric. The sewing plays a very important role in shoe making, having an impact both in terms of functionality and outlook. One of the most important indicators of the sewed products quality is seam strength, which is influenced by a series of technological parameters such as: the shape of the needle’s top, the needle’s diameter, the seam thickness, the number of seams, the gauge of the thread, the type of seam and the material type. This paper studies the stitching strength of the full grain leather and full grain leather shiny surface used for footwear uppers, in order to improve productivity and seam quality.The experimental researches obtained for the stitching strength allow calculating the weakening coefficient of the material in the process of sewing (a= 0.33-0.48). The “a” coefficient is dependent on the stitch density, the shape of the needle’s top and the joined materials. In terms of stitching strength, the results indicate that the full grain leather obtains higher values than the full grain leather shiny surface