Chloé. Attitudes

Chloé. Attitudes is the very first exhibition dedicated to Chloé, a celebration of the Maison’s 60-year contribution to fashion culture. Since 1952, its legacy of luxury prêt-à-porter clothing has consistently defined how modern women live. This spectacular and groundbreaking exhibition offers a playful interpretation of the Chloé spirit that spans seven decades. Featuring signature pieces from each of Chloé’s nine key designers – from the Maison’s progressive founder Gaby Aghion, to its present creative director Clare Waight Keller – the show is neither nostalgic nor chronological. It takes a thematic path through the very best of Chloé’s creativity, pausing at key moments within its history. This approach paints a picture of Chloé that is both familiar and yet unexpected. Iconic looks are presented alongside lesser-known yet equally influential designs. Many of these were rediscovered during the creation of the new archive developed since Waight Keller’s arrival. Most importantly, these are on display to the public for the very first time. The exhibition is curated and designed by renowned exhibition-maker Judith Clark and staged in the newly refurbished galleries of Le Palais de Tokyo. The centre’s exhibition space was expanded from 8,000 to 22,000 square metres in 2012, making it one of the largest cultural institutions devoted to contemporary culture in Europe. Chloé. Attitudes has been invited by the president of the palais, Jean de Loisy to inaugurate a cycle of exhibitions entitled “Fashion Program”, organised by estimated curators, celebrating key moments or outstanding figures in fashion history. The Chloé exhibition is presented as part of the autumn 2012 season of the Palais de Tokyo “imagine the imaginary” which explores the artist’s creative process from thought to creation. This theme is at the very heart of the Chloé. Attitudes concept. The exhibition presents the way in which la Maison Chloé has created an identifiable aesthetic and allure that has influenced women’s fashion. It is this ceaseless renewal of the imaginary that transforms the sensitivity of an era. The exhibition: Focusing equally on Chloé’s key designers and the Maison’s enduring themes, garment groupings serve to underscore Gaby Aghion’s original vision for the brand. The show encapsulates Aghion’s ambition to create an informal, stylish wardrobe for women who were no longer constrained by haute couture and its indoor lifestyle. This philosophy culminated in her first informal fashion show at the Café de Flore on Paris’s Left Bank in 1956. Visitors to the exhibition are also invited to consider these radical ideas from the perspectives of the celebrated designers under Aghion’s art direction: Gérard Pipart, Maxime de La Falaise, Karl Lagerfeld, Martine Sitbon, Stella McCartney, Phoebe Philo, Hannah MacGibbon and Clare Waight Keller. Seventy pieces drawn from the Maison’s newly formed archive introduce surprising new chapters to the brand’s traditional narrative. While Chloé’s beloved chiffon daywear prompts fond memories of the brand in the 1970s, this association is challenged by the inclusion of bright, graphic prints from the 1960s, references to the Bauhaus and details that echo the work of Aubrey Beardsley; vibrant and tongue-incheek surrealist elements mark the 1980s. Never-before-published drawings dating from 1958– 85 and iconic fashion photography by image-makers including Helmut Newton, Guy Bourdin, Jeanloup Sieff, David Bailey and Deborah Turbeville offer additional contexts for the clothing and suggest alternative interpretations of the classic Chloé woman

To Hell in a Handcart Educational realities, teachers' work and neo-liberal restructuring in NSW TAFE

This thesis examines the impact of neo-liberal economic restructuring on teachers, specifically teachers in technical and further education. Historically, there has been limited research undertaken on teachers as workers, and even less on TAFE teachers. During the period covered by the study, TAFE was buffeted by the massive changes, social, political, cultural and economic, that were occurring on a global scale. As a result, TAFE has been a system in crisis. The consequences are addressed by an empirical study that examines NSW TAFE teachers' experience of the great changes that have occurred to their work since the late 1980s. Forty-one teachers were interviewed in tape recorded sessions lasting around one hour each. The respondents were drawn from twenty-seven teaching sections across all the major industry areas represented in TAFE. Twenty of the teachers were from metropolitan locations, twenty-one were regional. Nine managers were also interviewed, from Head of Studies to senior management levels, covering those with local as well as state-wide responsibilities. The changes to TAFE have been driven by a pervasive neo-liberal ideology adopted by both major parties in Australia. This study documents the experience of TAFE teachers as that ideology led to a corporatised vocational education and training system strongly oriented to the market. It also records their responses to the narrowing of curriculum that resulted from the "industry-driven" vocational education and training policies of governments. The study gives voice to their grief, frustration and anger as their working conditions deteriorated and their commitment to quality education was undermined. The study documents the teachers' resistance to the processes of organisational fragmentation, the increasing incidence of cost-driven, rather than educational, decision-making, and the commodification of curriculum driven by a series of policy decisions taken at both national and state level. The study compares these experiences with those of the TAFE managers, whose response to the crisis, while differing from that of the teachers, supports the teachers' commitment to public education as a social good. The study concludes that the NSW TAFE teachers' resistance has continued to act as a brake on the excesses of neo-liberalism. Some possibilities for an alternative vision of technical and further education thus remain

SSB-1 of the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae is a nucleolar-specific, silver-binding protein that is associated with the snR10 and snR11 small nuclear RNAs

SSB-1, the yeast single-strand RNA-binding protein, is demonstrated to be a yeast nucleolar-specific, silver-binding protein. In double-label immunofluorescence microscopy experiments antibodies to two other nucleolar proteins, RNA Pol I 190-kD and fibrillarin, were used to reveal the site of rRNA transcription; i.e., the fibrillar region of the nucleolus. SSB-1 colocalized with fibrillarin in a double-label immunofluorescence mapping experiment to the yeast nucleolus. SSB-1 is located, though, over a wider region of the nucleolus than the transcription site marker. Immunoprecipitations of yeast cell extracts with the SSB-1 antibody reveal that in 150 mM NaCl SSB-1 is bound to two small nuclear RNAs (snRNAs). These yeast snRNAs are snR10 and snR11, with snR10 being predominant. Since snR10 has been implicated in pre-rRNA processing, the association of SSB-1 and snR10 into a nucleolar snRNP particle indicates SSB-1 involvement in rRNA processing as well. Also, another yeast protein, SSB-36-kD, isolated by single- strand DNA chromatography, is shown to bind silver under the conditions used for nucleolar-specific staining. It is, most likely, another yeast nucleolar protein

Governing wildfires:toward a systematic analytical framework

Despite recent research, a systematic approach to understanding wildfire governance is lacking. This article addresses this deficit by systematically reviewing governance theories and concepts applied so far in the academic literature on wildfires as a step toward achieving their more effective and holistic management. We engage our findings with the wider governance literature to unlock new thinking on wildfires as a process and outcome. This comparative approach enables us to propose a novel framework for analyzing wildfire governance based on four pillars: (1) actor participation in decision-making and decision taking; (2) actor collaboration and coproduction across and within levels, scales, and networks; (3) path dependencies and local place-based dynamics of wildfire incidence and comprehension; and (4) actor adaptation to and anticipation of wildfire risk to fashion effective institutions that address the global wildfire challenge. We show how this framework can help specify a suite of bespoke analytical and policy practitioner approaches to facilitate preemptive and restorative wildfire strategies via new networks between communities, states, and wider society, thus providing the basis for more equitable and sustainable governance of wildfire risks and impacts

Organophosphate toxicosis in chickens: A case report

Two cases of organophosphate toxicity were diagnosed at the University of Arkansas Poultry Science Department poultry research farm in the Spring of 2002. In both cases the birds were being treated with the organophosphate RaVap® for Northern Fowl Mites (Ornithonyssus sylvarium) infestations. A total of 61 birds died and 13 were treated successfully with atropine sulphate

Examinations of the nature of the deficits induced by n-methyl-D-aspartic acid lesions of the rat lateral hypothalamus

The lateral hypothalamic syndrome of aphagia, adipsia akinesia and sensorimotor impairments induced by electrolytic lesions of the lateral hypothalamus (LH) has been suggested to be due to the destruction of two components of a single system controlling feeding and drinking behaviour. While the "motor" component has been attributed to disruption of dopaminergic fibres, it has been suggested that destruction of intrinsic LH neurones induces a "motivational" deficit. The nature of this motivational deficit was investigated using the excitotoxin N-methyl-d~aspartic acid (NMDA) to lesion cell bodies and leave fibres of passage intact. Such lesions induced temporary reductions in body weight, food and water intake and residual deficits in response to some physiological challenges. Most animals recovered food and water intake and body weight gain after a short period of time. It was shown that LH lesioned rats were able to perceive and respond to the palatability of food/fluid; they responded physiologically to intracellular dehydration caused by hypertonic saline injections, although they did not respond behaviourally; they responded as controls to a battery of long-term, "positive" physiological challenges, but not to short-term, "negative" ones; and they displayed increased rate of development of schedule-induced polydipsia and tail pinch-induced eating, demonstrating that they had no motor impairments and that they did not have an "activational" deficit. These results indicate that the LH cannot be regarded as a feeding or drinking "centre" and that the motivational deficit following lesions of the LH is of a very complex nature. The implications of these data for the function of the LH are discussed in relation to electrophysiological and anatomical studies

Análisis del potencial del género Aspergillus en la transformación de Flavonoides

Propósito y Método del Estudio: Los flavonoides forman parte del metabolismo secundario de plantas. Son responsables de la pigmentación de los pétalos en las flores de tonos amarillos, rojos y naranjas, atrayendo así a los polinizadores. También tienen la capacidad de proteger a las plantas del daño de los rayos UV, además de resguardarlos del ataque de insectos y patógenos. Pueden funcionar como antibióticos y antioxidantes, siendo estas dos propiedades las más estudiadas en plantas y en humanos. Los microorganismos tienen la capacidad de mimetizar el metabolismo de mamíferos, plantas e insectos. El género Aspergillus ha demostrado poseer cualidades excepcionales en la transformación de flavonoides, pudiendo sintetizar estructuras distintas y complejas a partir de sus precursores más sencillos, las chalconas. Debido a lo anterior, en el presente trabajo se planteó estudiar las transformaciones realizadas por otras especies el género Aspergillus hasta el momento no estudiadas. En este estudio se realizaron cinéticas de transformación de una chalcona sintética metoxilada por A. niger, evaluando el poder antioxidante y la actividad antibiótica del extracto obtenido, para el posterior análisis de los metabolitos presentes en el extracto. Contribuciones y Conclusiones: - El género Aspergillus tiene vías metabólicas capaces de imitar el metabolismo de plantas en la transformación de flavonoides. - Aspergillus niger fue capaz de transformar a DMC con alta reproducibilidad y alto rendimiento. - El extracto biotransformado por A. niger presentó poco sensibilidad antibiótica contra E. coli; sin embargo en los ensayos con S. typhimurium se observó una inhibición de crecimiento de éste patógeno en presencia del extracto. - Los compuestos que conforman el extracto biotransformado por A. niger poseen mayor actividad antioxidante que el sustrato, probablemente debido al aumento de polaridad consecuencia de la biotransformación por A. niger. - Estos resultados, además de los que ya se han reportado en literatura, perfilan a los compuestos del extracto biotransformado por A. niger ATCC 9142 como agentes de alto valor e importancia en el campo farmacéutico