Bacterial Cellulose-Carboxymethyl Cellulose (BC:CMC) dry formulation as stabilizer and texturizing agent for surfactant-free cosmetic formulations

Generic cosmetic creams (oil-in-water emulsions) were prepared using dry Bacterial Cellulose and Carboxymethyl Cellulose (BC:CMC) to study the possibility of partially or completely replacing surfactants, while ensuring a long-term stability and the required organoleptic characteristics. BC:CMC was benchmarked against two hydrocolloidal Avicel products (PC-591 and PC-611), commonly used as thickeners and stabilizing aids in cosmetics production. The emulsions were then characterized regarding storage stability, rheology, texture and microscopic features. The full replacement of 5.5% surfactants with only 0.75% BC:CMC consistently showed similar results to those obtained with surfactants, namely concerning viscosity and texture. Although producing emulsions with larger oil droplets, BC:CMC provided for a very effective stabilization through a Pickering effect and by structuring the continuous phase. The more effective Avicel tested (PC-591) required a higher concentration (1.5 %) to achieve similar rheological profile but was ineffective in stabilizing the oil phase in a surfactant-free formulation with the adopted protocol. By replacing surfactants, dry BC:CMC matches a strong market need since both end users and manufacturers increasingly seek natural ingredients for cosmetic formulations.This study was supported by the Portuguese Foundation for Science and Technology (FCT) under the scope of the strategic funding of UIDB/ 04469/2020 unit and BioTecNorte operation (NORTE-01-0145-FEDER 000004) funded by the European Regional Development Fund under the scope of Norte2020 - Programa Operacional Regional do Norte. Daniela Martins also gratefully acknowledges FCT for the PhD scholarship, reference SFRH/BD/115917/2016.info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersio